Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

[myles long]

Pastime camper construction is fine. They are lightweight. Bigfoot or Northern Lite would be a much better choice for winter use, but you should have a 3/4-ton or 1-ton truck to carry them.

The one posted by myles long? That's a popup, a FWC Fleet shell model. You can get a liner for winter use, stays plenty warm. Very nice lightweight setup if you have a truck and use it for other purposes, but again, for a dedicated RV consider other options.

Popups are a bit more aerodynamic than slide-ins, but not by that much and IMO it's not a big factor when making an RV choice. The bigger advantage of FWCs is that they have a lower COG and they flex on rough roads and when off-roading.

I just got the arctic pack on the inside of mine...makes a huge difference. Stays nice and toasty down to single digits. Had it out at mammoth a few times and even when its that cold, no issues. Just gotta make sure you dont run out of propane!

[mooseknuckles]

Turned in to Walmart to take a peek at this one tonight here in Joshua Tree.

[Tryingtostaywarm]

What about early 2000s era trucks? Seems like a 7.3l diesel over a V10 gas for a few grand more could be worth it if it's a one ton camper hauler.

Here is the deal with that.
For a 1989-2002 Dodge 2500/3500 w/ a Cummins they are still going for $10-15k in good shape
The 2003+ Dodge's are still around 12-15+k even with 200k+
For a 1994-2003ish Ford F250/350 w/ the beloved 7.3 Power Stroke they are still going for $10-15k
The 2003+ Ford F250/350 w/ the 6.0 Powerstroke are around $10-15k, newer, and might have lower mileage but read up on the 6.0 as some say it is junk, some say once you deal with the EGR/"bullet-proof" it they are solid. Research that as you'll find 50/50 mixed reviews.
If you are talking about the older Ford modular V10..or the even older 460,or Chevy 454 or the Dodge V10 for that matter. You can find these 3/4 to 1 ton trucks from late 90's to early 00's with decent mileage and way cheaper than their diesel counterparts. They are cheap to repair, built like a tank, get dog shit gas mileage, and they are going to get you where you want to go with a load..just not fast.
With that, if you are looking to go the gas route in a 3/4 ton or 1 ton in the $10-15k range. I would recommend looking at say Chevy/GMC from mid-late 00's 2500/3500 with a 6.0 or even newer 2011+ Ford F-250/350 6.2L. The older 454/460/V10 motors are work horses, bulletproof, cheap to repair but the newer technology on the GMC 6.0 or Ford 6.2L is pretty substantial + they have a newer truck + newer technology + creature comforts.
The 2011+ Ford 6.2L seems to be leaps and bounds from the old V10/460 days, and due to everyone wants a powerstroke when they think of Ford Super Duties you can find a nice 2011/12 Ford F250/350 with 125k or so for under $15k.
Here is a great example of something like that. https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto...514824719.html
I cannot really speak for the newer Dodge gas motors as I only have experience with their diesel's.

[tmokes]

I think I know the answer but what about Toyota Tundra??? Cheaper used and I can get free lift tickets sometimes around here...


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[jackattack]

Cheaper than what?

The Toyota tax is real.

[tmokes]

I figured everyone wants Big 3 US truck so I figured that demand is lower....

I got lots of questions but one more I thought of is... when is the good time to buy? I figured truck demands are high now for boat towing season and camper shell demand is higher now for hunting season... any idea?


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[GeezerSteve]

Tundra premium is real. Good solid reliable trucks, but you'll pay more.

There's never a good time to buy a used 4x4 truck that hasn't been beat to shit for a decent price

[GPP33]

I think I know the answer but what about Toyota Tundra??? Cheaper used and I can get free lift tickets sometimes around here...


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Models with 4 doors came with comically short beds. If your getting a truck to haul a camper get an 8’ bed. If you want 4 doors and an 8’ bed it’s a Ford/Chevy/Dodge 3/4 or 1 ton.

[tmokes]

Thanks. I guess I’ll need to go visit some RV dealers soon to get better ideas and shop around for trucks. I already see some nice f350 four doors and 8” bed for around $20k+....


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[GPP33]

Diesel with manual? You are going back a few decades. Better be a part time mechanic if you go back that far.

Not sure when ford quit mating manuals to diesels but Ram still does and always has. GMC/Chevy probably quit some time around 2000 or when ever they started with the Dmax. Cummins and Super duties with manuals can be had in post 2000 models.

[MakersTeleMark]

That bitch named Allison caused all this. But she's a loyal bitch.

[LightRanger]

Not sure when ford quit mating manuals to diesels but Ram still does and always has. GMC/Chevy probably quit some time around 2000 or when ever they started with the Dmax. Cummins and Super duties with manuals can be had in post 2000 models.

Word. My folks recently picked up a 2007 or 2008 Cummins 1ton dually 4x4 with a manual as their retirement/camper truck. $16k with like 160k on the clock.

[powdrhound]

I would have a hard time getting around the stink of diesel, full time.
Just can’t stand the odor.

[GPP33]

I would have a hard time getting around the stink of diesel, full time.
Just can’t stand the odor.

I hate that about mine, newer ones with more emissions stuff don’t stink as much. Just don’t let it sit around and idle and it’s not too bad. People behind me might think otherwise but when I’m driving it’s fine since I can’t smell it.

[skysos]

I don’t have truck or camper so I’m not limited to what I buy except for the cost...

My only requirement for the truck is so I can seat my son safely in the back seat and be 4x4/AWD. Most likely I won’t use it for any other reason and camper will stay in the bed, unless something major comes up, but even then, I’ve probably opt out to rent a uhaul truck for that occasion rather than deal with taking the camper off and on.

I want to use the camper for me, gf, and son. All season use so hard sided is ideal. Don’t have to shower but bathroom is nice for gf and my son because he’s just a baby now so it’s going to be years before he can “hold it” to use outside facility for #2...

I don’t want to drive old truck or sleep in moldy camper so I’ll pay a bit more for newer models. Seems like I need to have a truck before camper shopping but I should know exactly what kind of camper I want so I can be sure to get a truck that can accommodate it... bit overwhelming for a first time buyer.

By the way, I never had interest in pickup trucks before so everything is new to me when it comes to shopping for a truck.


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I've done 2 types of resort parking lot camping: First was a 2012 F350 4X4 dually with 1-year old 2013 Arctic Fox 990. This was a sweet setup and had plenty of room for a family and lots of water on board for showers. Both were purchased used in 2014 but still cost about $53K. This got about 10-11 mpg (gas). Did great on snow, although SRW would have been better. There were a couple of problems with this though: #1 I needed the truck for other light-weight duties and it was absolutely punishing driving that thing around unloaded. #2 was the Arctic Fox developed leaks after only 2 years and was delaminating. We didn't use it that much and paying for storage and depreciation on the seldom used truck caused me to sell it. A large truck camper on a 1-ton truck is basically the best way to get a 4X4 Class C-like solution that is better able to deal with really cold weather and has at least some use other than as an RV.

The 2nd is a small fiberglass trailer made for cold weather: 2017 Escape 17B, towed by a 4WD Honda Pilot we already had for $23K (new). This gets about 14-15mpg but we drive faster with the trailer. They can be towed by anything that can tow 3,500 lbs, so you don't have to buy a new vehicle in most cases. The Pilot is a great daily driver and I'm not paying for another vehicle that seldom gets used. We will be towing it with our Colorado ZR2 diesel next time we go out, which is also a great daily driver. I can stow the trailer in my side yard which was impossible with the truck camper.

Most of the parking-lot camping action is in places where there is little or no lodging nearby. It's a social/fun scene if you mix with other people, but there are big negatives: If it's snowing you will hear snow removal operations all night, and the dreaded moisture buildup are the biggest problems. Space is limited, and showers have to be VERY short unless you have a big tank. It's much cheaper and more comfortable to hotel it unless you go total dirtbag.

So bottom line is that if you really want to do the camping thing, it's going to be a lot cheaper and easier to live with a trailer. There are lots of trailers in the lots we've camped in so it's not unusual. Yes, the large truck camper is better overall, but it's a big commitment so make sure you are willing to deal with that.

[DanoT]

I would have a hard time getting around the stink of diesel, full time.
Just can’t stand the odor.

The solution would be to get one of those equipment set ups for turning cooking oil into a fuel that can be burned in a diesel engine. Get your used cooking oil from a fast food place and then all you smell is french fries!

[jackattack]

Cut out the showers and the moisture build up decreases significantly.

[powdrhound]

Cut out the showers and the moisture build up decreases significantly.

The catalytic heater add huge amounts of moisture, also.

[GeezerSteve]

Yes to both: shower and catalytic wick heater = moisture. IME, a real furnace with a heat exchanger is a top priority for a winter camping rig. Newer models with more efficient fans suck significantly less battery power. The furnace in my 2014 Hawk draws roughly half the electricity as the furnace in my 2000 Hawk.

[tmokes]

What do you mean by real furnace? Catalytic wick you’re talking about is the propane heater right?


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[Norseman]

Propane furnace that exhausts to the exterior and circulates cabin air over a heat exchanger using an electric fan. Built into the wall of the camper.

One the products of hydrocarbon combustion is water, eh?

Catalytic heaters are the little units that stand alone, like the Mr Heater Buddy series.

[tmokes]

I heard that propane heater produce moist heat...


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[jackattack]

As Norseman pointed out, any heat source that relies on combustion is a “moist heat.” Where that exhaust ends up AND the amount of cold, dry air it draws into the space (such as a wood stove) is the main difference.

[GeezerSteve]

What do you mean by real furnace? Catalytic wick you’re talking about is the propane heater right?

I used the term "real furnace" to refer to a furnace with a heat exchanger, which exhausts to the outside (taking combustion-produced water vapor outside the camper), and the term "wick heater" to refer to a catalytic or non-catalytic heater with no heat exchanger, e.g., Mr. Heater Big Buddy or RV panel wick heater, which emits water vapor inside the camper. The difference is palpable in terms of moisture management.

[powdrhound]

For me, it comes down to the battery.
I can only fit a small size 34 battery, and even with the smallest heater fan the real heater is hard on it, more so on those clear cold nights following the storm. I now use just the wave 6 on Medium for 95% of my stay. Uses less propane, too. Run the big heater for a quick heatup once in a while.

ps. Abusing the Optima battery for 8 years hasn’t been good for it. It is time for a new one, but now that I am using it less, it is a smaller problem...