Yesterday's adventure in shade-tree ski teching:
I used this Kingpin template that Alpinord linked on his slidewright.com site. Worked fine, I test-checked it for the bsl, ignoring the printed guide:
http://www.powderguide.com/community...nhang1477.html
It's not cutting edge but I was able to squeak a mount in between a few pretty existing holes. Here's hoping that the bindings stay attached to the skis.
Nice, I have some skis to mount real soon. Inserts too, but I have to order those
I've mounted several pairs of my own fucking skis with dynafits. All has gone well using the Wildsnow template and tutorial. Just got a pair of LINE Sick Day Tourists and I'm going to fucking mount them with a pair of TLT Classic Speeds. I haven't every mounted LINEs. Anything special to know about their "Cloud Core" or anything else? What beer goes best with mounting LINEs?
If a ski has been mounted for a huge boot prior and I am now mounting for a much smaller size. All my heel piece holes are in front of the old mount. Does this significantly weaken the ski? Or should just l mount'em and ski em.
I realise that all remounts probably weaken a ski somewhat
Keep spacing to a decent distance it should be fine. There's plenty of discussion here on how close you can really go. If you're gutsy and willing to take a little bit more of a risk tolerance approach, some will even go so far as to overlap holes with the right technique but that's a whole different story. Most of the templates will have a circle around the centerpoint of the hole if you're outside of this with your other set of holes life should be pretty good.
If it's close on the hill move the mounting plate for a few millimeters and then just adjusted heel piece backwards. Do a test mount first to make sure you have the range in the adjustment.
Nothing special about mounting Line skis. If they have metal, drill with a 4.1mm bit. Otherwise, drill with a 3.5mm bit. And always tap all holes. Because the skis are cheaply made in China, it might be worth the effort to double measure the boot center line and make sure it's the same distance from tip/tail on both skis.
As for beer to accompany Line skis ...
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Success! Both just so damn sexy.
Gravity always wins...
My turn.
These are giving me some serious wood.
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Last edited by Norseman; 03-23-2017 at 01:18 AM.
Yes. But don't take my jackass word for it.
Last edited by Vitamin I; 03-23-2017 at 12:54 PM.
- TRADE your heavy PROTESTS for my lightweight version at this thread
"My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane
"I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy
did my first tech binding mount. finally getting a new lightweight setup after skiing on my old ultralight mountaineering rig. Fischer Hannibal 94 w. Speed Turns. Measured 50 times before I drilled because I was super paranoid of fucking these up. Tough drill through the fischer mounting plate, but the upside is that they feel SOLID. Thanks to everyone in this thread for all the tips, templates, etc.
Next to the old rig these will replace. The old minty greens have served me well on a decade plus of high and light tours but it is time to say good bye. Helping is that the new skis/bindings only weigh about 200g more each despite being 184s vs. 177s and 94mm at the waist vs. 67 underfoot -- so they are going to ski a helluva lot betterI also weighed the old bellowed F1 vs. the new F1 superslippers and they give back almost twice the weight increase of the skis. So the new setup is way better and lighter. Progress fucken rules.
Next to the sidecountry, day tripper/short tour setup. I won't even tell you what this setup weighs
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Anyone know what binding will play well with a Tyrolia Attack demo drilling?
I pulled attack13 demos and went to drill for StH2 and I'm finding some issues with the heel. To keep the toe on the line I have to mount the heel way off and max out the fore/aft adjustability in order to maintain 1cm between holes. I'd like to use these STH2s but it isn't looking good.
(mounting for a 325bsl, fwiw)
Not sure what template/Jig you're using but I'd be comfortable being max 17.5mm ahead of the heel track midpoint on STH2's (32mm total travel by my calculations). Officially closer to 14.5mm forward from center mark. This is using my template in the sticky.
This is also as long as you think you'll keep the same size boot for a while. Remember the STH2 heel track has the floating front holes - you could move those back/forward a couple mm relative to the rearmost holes to help you with clearence to little ill effect
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