I've tried all the methods noted above when I was first mounting my own fucking bindings. I then quit being cheap and bought the proper bit. I don't regret it for one second. It's worth every penny and well worth the money.
I've tried all the methods noted above when I was first mounting my own fucking bindings. I then quit being cheap and bought the proper bit. I don't regret it for one second. It's worth every penny and well worth the money.
By the time I got that bit up here with exchange & shipping it would be 40$
if I used a commercial jig I would cuz thats what fits in the holes in the jig, otherwise its not doing anything special other than the chamfer which I can do by hand with a 3/8 bit
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Searching not turning up answers I need.
Need to mount a couple pairs of the Atomic version of Sally STH2's this week. I have the OG Sally jig which works for STH. How different are the patterns (I don't have the clamps with me until wednesday)? Can I use the jig I already have to drill enough holes to get to the point where I can use the bindings as a guide to the rest of the holes?
Oft,
this is the thread you seek. Didn't read past relevant page for confirmation but appears toe holes unchanged but heel four all different
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...-Sth2-bindings
No jig, but there is a paper template around, although not on bindingfreedom's website. Its on one of those Euro websites.
Mounted up 1080's rc112s with some minty Ninjas. Bits and gumption from binding freedom/jondrums.
Clear printable plastic sheets to get around old holes as best I could.
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Life of a repo man is always intense.
The template on Powderguide is a combined STH2 and Warden template. I've done four Warden mounts based on it (actually, I took their dimensions and replicated them in my CAD tool). Note the difference in the toe. The front holes (closest to the tip) differ for the Warden and STH2. The other 6 holes (2-toe, 4-heel) are identically located.
As always, a 2 x 4 is your friend, if at all in doubt.
Cheers,
Thom
Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
Hello!
Unfortunately I do not know the English language and use the Google translator. Excuse me.
Tell me please, what is the inscription on skis "max 400 mm"? The full text of the inscription: "Drill 4.1 * 9.5 max 400mm". This distance from what to what? Thank you.
P.S.Unfortunately I can not attach a photo.
I'm about to remount a pair of skis with Speed Turn 2.0s that was originally drilled for Plum Guides. The heel pattern is the same, and the only difference in the toes is that the length is longer. I plan on just lining up/screwing in the back holes, marking where the new front toe holes need to be and drilling. Besides moving the toes up just a little bit, is there any other consequence I'm missing? Just trying to get around re-doing everything with a paper jig.
It sucks to suck.
Should work fine, but make sure the new toe piece is square before marking/drilling the new holes. Either make an accurate centerline mark on the ski, or better: click the boot into the toe piece to line up the heel pins with the boot, then mark. (With back two toe piece screws installed but not tightened).
What's the length difference in the toe piece hole pattern? Got enough meat for the new screws?
mounted my own fucking skis for scrappy early season conditions. let's do this winter.
I have installed a ski bindings for my wife (Armada ARW + Ficsher X9 Wide 90) and searched the internet paper template (92W).
Here and found your site.
If anyone interested, Armada ski gave me an answer "What is 400mm?"
"Hi,
Thanks for reaching out to Armada! The "Max 400mm" mark refers to the max size of ski boot sole length you would be able to use on the skis. a Boot Sole Length of 400mm's would be the equivalent size of a 33-35 boot size. A skier would have to have a 16 or 17 U.S. foot size in order to be close to the 400mm. Any boot that would be 400mm's or bigger would be too long for the bindings to be mounted in the correct position.
Let me know if you have any questions and the google translator worked great!
Thanks,
Kolton Smith ||| Armada Customer Support Team2700 Rasmussen Rd, Park City, Utah 84098 || ArmadaSkis.com ||"
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