PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[MagnificentUnicorn]

Hm, I'm in the same boat as scottyb, though I always try to remember to double check alignment and always clamp the jig down to ensure no/less movement

I guess that's the point. If you have to clamp and re-check then it's just as easy and more accurate to use paper.

[shafty85]

I guess that's the point. If you have to clamp and re-check then it's just as easy and more accurate to use paper.

I'd disagree, at least for installing inserts - eyeball test is easy to check alignment (if the track has skipped a tooth, it would be easy to tell) and clamps take 2 seconds. I also find the jig more accurate than paper. ymmv

[bigdude2468]

I'd disagree, at least for installing inserts - eyeball test is easy to check alignment (if the track has skipped a tooth, it would be easy to tell) and clamps take 2 seconds. I also find the jig more accurate than paper. ymmv

I am anal so I marked the center line on each end of the the jig. I mount the Jiga Rex and then double check the distance from the mark to each ski edge. So far the jig has been dead nuts. This might take an additional 60 seconds. I previously used paper templates and IMO the Jiga Rex is much easier, faster.

[detrusor]

I put a sticker ruler from slidewright on my jigarex. Easy to see the side to side now.

[shafty85]

I am anal so I marked the center line on each end of the the jig. I mount the Jiga Rex and then double check the distance from the mark to each ski edge. So far the jig has been dead nuts. This might take an additional 60 seconds. I previously used paper templates and IMO the Jiga Rex is much easier, faster.

I, too, marked the centre of the jig. Measured to confirm for the first few mounts, now I just eyeball because it's been consistently accurate. Agreed regarding the time savings and ease of use. But, if people find paper easier, have at 'er - to each their own, as they say.

[bigdude2468]

I put a sticker ruler from slidewright on my jigarex. Easy to see the side to side now.

That is a good way to go, might have to try that.

[AlpiNord]

I put a sticker ruler from slidewright on my jigarex. Easy to see the side to side now.

Ideally, one on each end and each side centered on the BSC if you see the need to offset mounts.

[sb]

I put a sticker ruler from slidewright on my jigarex. Easy to see the side to side now.

I got a large Plexi scraper from Terry several years ago. Unbeknownst to me he put one of his centerline stickers on it, I use it every time for mounts and it is one of my most valued ski tools.

THX Terry!

[axebiker]

Didn't think about putting stickers on the jig itself...hmmm...

[AlpiNord]

From the Jigarex thread:

TLDR:
1. Make sure ski clamp slides operate smoothly - any binding issues can be fixed by filing/sanding slide
2. If the clamps bind, don't try to push through it using the spinny lever - the plastic will strip and skip teeth (duh)
3. Supervise all novice users to avoid swiss cheese mounts

4. Draw a centerline on a piece of tape on the ski and (or scribe) on the center of two ends of the Jigarex frame.

or add Centering Ruler Stickers on the ends and BSC:




Edit to add:



An alternative to drawing a center line:

• use a combination square against the edge set to an arbitrary length, near the end of the Jigarex
• make a mark from each edge
• measure the distance between to find center of ski
• double check alignment of the Jigarex

At the BSC mark the gradations on the ruler are helpful for offsets, too.


On the Line


+1 cm

[MagnificentUnicorn]

I guess I was expecting the facility and accuracy of a shop jig. It is easy, just not as accurate without futzing as I had hoped for.

[Andeh]

Thanks for the tip on sticking the Slidewright sticker on the ends/side of the jig, that sounds better than trying to scratch all my plates.

[bigdude2468]

Thanks for the tip on sticking the Slidewright sticker on the ends/side of the jig, that sounds better than trying to scratch all my plates.

FWIW I did not mark the plates. I took a file and put a small groove on each end of the Jig, right in the middle. So when I set the Jig on the ski and tighten the arms I can see if the Jig is properly centered. I have a micrometer that I bought from Harbor tolls for about $10 that i use.

[NW_SKIER]

Mounted up my 185 Praxis powderboards today. Salomon Warden mnc demos at 99cm straight tape pull for 307 bsl. Didn't have a template so I made my own. After plugging previous solly mount, things went smoothly.Practice mount on 2x4 to be sure of template measurements.

I have this thread to thank once again for these skills. Can't wait to ski them. They have plenty of room to accommodate anyone who would like to try them. They will certainly be around for BBI17.

[2FUNKY]

Very nice man.

[::: :::]

Didn't have a template so I made my own.

fucking brilliant!
well done!

[NW_SKIER]

fucking brilliant!
well done!

Thank you. It worked surprisingly well.

[liv2ski]

Picked up a pair of new Atomic Vantage 100's and some STH2 bindings at end of the season sales. Looks like an awesome ski to replace my now rock skis, my beloved Movement Sources. I could not find a paper template here, so found one elsewhere. Lucky I mounted to a 2X4 first, as the scaling was waaaay off. Anyways, after measuring 50 different ways, got them drilled and mounted.
Thanks TGR for helping a jong do some of this stuff on his own. And now the pics.

[sb]

I am not seeing any beer in those pictures?

[Meadow Skipper]

I am not seeing any beer in those pictures?

Right? In honor of that, I'm reposting this from the paper template thread:

See Radical 2.0 template above (and G3 ION, below) as a heel line example and template links. I can provide measurements for heel locations relative to the Jigrex plates we have in stock if needed.

G3 ION template:

This worked perfectly. Thanks Terry! I owe you beer/brown liquor:

[ski-wpk]

I'm sure this is somewhere in the 51 pages of posts but I can't find it - sorry in advance for the repeat.

I'm trying to replicate a mount point that splits the difference between boot center and chord center, though there seem to be many definitions of chord center both here and elsewhere online. Tip to tail, tip to back of running surface, front of running surface to back of running surface. Mounting on twin tips. Which is the best method for chord? And once I measure chord and divide by 2, where do I measure from to draw my line?

Thanks.

[LC]

I'm trying to replicate a mount point that splits the difference between boot center and chord center, though there seem to be many definitions of chord center both here and elsewhere online.

If you don't know what cord centre is then why do you want to reference it? They're you're own fucking skis, mount them wherever you want.

[dschane]

I'm sure this is somewhere in the 51 pages of posts but I can't find it - sorry in advance for the repeat.

I'm trying to replicate a mount point that splits the difference between boot center and chord center, though there seem to be many definitions of chord center both here and elsewhere online. Tip to tail, tip to back of running surface, front of running surface to back of running surface. Mounting on twin tips. Which is the best method for chord? And once I measure chord and divide by 2, where do I measure from to draw my line?

Back when Tua was still making skis, cord center was relevant (I'm an idiot musician, no musician at all really, and have no clue what chord center is). Cord center is measured by straight pulling your tape from the tip to the tail, and then dividing by two -- you'd put the telemark pin line there.

Then, folks started that putting your ball of foot on the center of the running surface was better. To do that, you'd decamber the skis and mark where the ski's tip and tail stopped touching the ground. Then, you find the center between those two points and mount so that your ball of foot was on that line (1/2 dozen ways to figure out your ball foot in relation to your boot).

Now, most put boot center on the manufacturer's line or go anywhere from 0.5 to 3 cm behind that point (Voile says on the line, G3 says 0.5 cm behind the line, and BD says on the line or 2.5 cm behind the line if you like a more traditional mount). Some also like to figure out the ski's balance point in relation to the recommended mount line, as well as the center of the ski's sidecut (DPS says to put ball of foot there). It's a lot of voodoo and personal preference. For me, I start with the manufacturer's line and consider boot center on that. If the manufacturer likes forward mounts (Praxis), I tend to go back 2-5 cm. But I wouldn't bother with cord center or ball of foot on the center of the running surface, esp. with rockered skis. My $.00002. Or, I have no clue what you're asking.

What skis you got?

[~mikey b]

Old fart....

[ski-wpk]

Back when Tua was still making skis, cord center was relevant (I'm an idiot musician, no musician at all really, and have no clue what chord center is). Cord center is measured by straight pulling your tape from the tip to the tail, and then dividing by two -- you'd put the telemark pin line there.

Then, folks started that putting your ball of foot on the center of the running surface was better. To do that, you'd decamber the skis and mark where the ski's tip and tail stopped touching the ground. Then, you find the center between those two points and mount so that your ball of foot was on that line (1/2 dozen ways to figure out your ball foot in relation to your boot).

Now, most put boot center on the manufacturer's line or go anywhere from 0.5 to 3 cm behind that point (Voile says on the line, G3 says 0.5 cm behind the line, and BD says on the line or 2.5 cm behind the line if you like a more traditional mount). Some also like to figure out the ski's balance point in relation to the recommended mount line, as well as the center of the ski's sidecut (DPS says to put ball of foot there). It's a lot of voodoo and personal preference. For me, I start with the manufacturer's line and consider boot center on that. If the manufacturer likes forward mounts (Praxis), I tend to go back 2-5 cm. But I wouldn't bother with cord center or ball of foot on the center of the running surface, esp. with rockered skis. My $.00002. Or, I have no clue what you're asking.

What skis you got?

Ok, so sounds like this method is way dated. And CORD center is what I should be saying. Mounting old Salomon Foil for rock skis, also Dynastar Cham 2.0 107. The shop I trust mounts between cord and boot center, and I like where that is on other skis in the quiver so trying to replicate (and avoid spending $40 x 2). The Foils were previously mounted more centered on the ski, which I didn't like. Can't say I ride switch much on tele. Thanks for the history lesson, much appreciated. Definitely an art to all this.