WEED, The Official Thread

**Bobby Stainless** · 01-02-2016, 04:53 AM

I've got close to 2k sq ft down there.

I have never heard of LSD, The White is fire though.

**TBS** · 01-02-2016, 08:35 AM

Underground? Even better for keeping cool
my little bit of research sez LSD is my kinda strain. Good yields of potent bud, 9 week finish and resists fuckups.
https://www.leafly.com/hybrid/lsd
http://www.kindgreenbuds.com/marijuana-strains/lsd/

**Game Over** · 01-02-2016, 08:56 AM

Id assume white is related to white widow? Anxious to hear how it goes for ya-> I love me some white widow!

**Bobby Stainless** · 01-02-2016, 09:01 AM

Yeah, it's underground with access to outdoor air, and air conditioning.

**Bobby Stainless** · 01-04-2016, 10:29 AM

SFV x OG Kush seedling showin some shine.

**Bobby Stainless** · 01-04-2016, 10:33 AM

Gorilla Glue #4 day 22

TGR trim party at Bobby's? I'll provide beer and bbq.

Good read on GG4: http://www.vice.com/read/marijuanas-growers-are-upping-the-thc-ante-with-super-potent-pot-456?utm_source=vicefbus

**schwerty** · 01-04-2016, 01:28 PM

Whoa! ^

You're not fucking around! Looks fantastic. I'd put my name on the trim party list if I lived in your fine state.

**Game Over** · 01-04-2016, 01:33 PM

Yea that's pretty rad.

**neckdeep** · 01-04-2016, 01:46 PM

Originally Posted by scottyb

So I am wondering about medical mj, does the oil stuff taken internally get you high?

From what I understand about the juicing thing it has does not cause that at all.

What you are wondering about is explained by the decarboxylation curve. The plant produces THCA. THCA is not psychoactive. THCA must be catalyzed with heat to break off a CO2 molecule (decarbed) and yield the psychoactive THC. A mild acid will further catalyze the process but isn't necessary as there is sufficient acidity present in the plant. Here are links to a graph of the decarb curve and a chart of cook times by method of heat:

https://www.google.com/search?q=deca...ixfbMxBDMGw%3D

https://www.google.com/search?q=deca...ixfbMxBDMGw%3D

When the plant is dried and cured for long periods there is some decarbing going on, but not much. Igniting or vaporizing the plant decarbs its THCA very quickly (typical butane lighter produces 1500-2000 degree flame). Obviously, you aren't making medicinal oil or cannabutter at 2000 degrees so something else is going on, kapiche? Cooking temps require longer catalyzation. The key point is, to make psychoactive edibles, topicals or tinctures, one must introduce heat somewhere along the line to make it psychoactive. To make tinctures, for example, the plant must be dry heated in an oven before being put in the solvent. This is done because alcohol's boiling point is too low for adequate decarbing and when you heat it for long, it quickly turns from tincture to oil. The decarb curve explains why home made Rick Simpson oil often doesn't get you very high when you eat it but it certainly will if you smoke it. The home recipe is typically made with a non-psychoactive tincture (i.e. a solution containing THCA in ethyl alcohol) evaporated with a rice cooker, then purged using the relatively low heat of a coffee maker's warmer plate. The decarb curve also explains why when cannabutter is made as a water bath and you cook the hell out of it, it makes you a lot more sedated than high.

In psychoactive terms: THC = high. CBD = sedated. Both compounds are attributed medical benefits beyond high or sedated, by the way. One line of thought claims the THC is the principal tumor fighting agent and that you don't want to lose to much THC in favor of the CBD. But, if one is using conventional treatments and the main thing is to suppress nausea and pain without being blazed 24/7, then you want to be sure to use a high CBD oil. Is it a cure? I really don't know what to believe and I'm a skeptic at heart. So much anecdotal evidence competing with empirical data. Hope this helps.

**Bobby Stainless** · 01-06-2016, 10:30 AM

Mixed spectrum side.

**Skidog** · 01-06-2016, 11:10 AM

Originally Posted by neckdeep

What you are wondering about is explained by the decarboxylation curve. The plant produces THCA. THCA is not psychoactive. THCA must be catalyzed with heat to break off a CO2 molecule (decarbed) and yield the psychoactive THC. A mild acid will further catalyze the process but isn't necessary as there is sufficient acidity present in the plant. Here are links to a graph of the decarb curve and a chart of cook times by method of heat:

https://www.google.com/search?q=deca...ixfbMxBDMGw%3D

https://www.google.com/search?q=deca...ixfbMxBDMGw%3D

When the plant is dried and cured for long periods there is some decarbing going on, but not much. Igniting or vaporizing the plant decarbs its THCA very quickly (typical butane lighter produces 1500-2000 degree flame). Obviously, you aren't making medicinal oil or cannabutter at 2000 degrees so something else is going on, kapiche? Cooking temps require longer catalyzation. The key point is, to make psychoactive edibles, topicals or tinctures, one must introduce heat somewhere along the line to make it psychoactive. To make tinctures, for example, the plant must be dry heated in an oven before being put in the solvent. This is done because alcohol's boiling point is too low for adequate decarbing and when you heat it for long, it quickly turns from tincture to oil. The decarb curve explains why home made Rick Simpson oil often doesn't get you very high when you eat it but it certainly will if you smoke it. The home recipe is typically made with a non-psychoactive tincture (i.e. a solution containing THCA in ethyl alcohol) evaporated with a rice cooker, then purged using the relatively low heat of a coffee maker's warmer plate. The decarb curve also explains why when cannabutter is made as a water bath and you cook the hell out of it, it makes you a lot more sedated than high.

In psychoactive terms: THC = high. CBD = sedated. Both compounds are attributed medical benefits beyond high or sedated, by the way. One line of thought claims the THC is the principal tumor fighting agent and that you don't want to lose to much THC in favor of the CBD. But, if one is using conventional treatments and the main thing is to suppress nausea and pain without being blazed 24/7, then you want to be sure to use a high CBD oil. Is it a cure? I really don't know what to believe and I'm a skeptic at heart. So much anecdotal evidence competing with empirical data. Hope this helps.

Made some duff butter yesterday following some of the charts linked here. My last batch i did with the crock pot 24 hr method and as mentioned i found them more sedative than "high" inducing.

This round I used the crock as I determined (roughly) the temp it reaches is around 200 degrees F. put in 2 sticks of butter and filled with water, and allowed to come up to temp. once it reached "temp" I added roughly an oz of duff (probably more like 1.25oz). I set the timer for 3 hours. I know the chart said 2 at about 212F for butter/water, but im experimenting.

Will likely be making cookies later today, will come back and post results. Thanks for those links BTW...hoping this batch turns out with more THC effect than CBD.

**Dantheman** · 01-06-2016, 11:46 AM

Originally Posted by Skidog

hoping this batch turns out with more THC effect than CBD.

Never going to happen with vape duff.

**Greg_o** · 01-06-2016, 09:09 PM

Question if you would humour me for those with knowledge pertaining to coco (highangel, Mr Stainless etc)

What's your preferred way to prep this stuff prior to adding seedlings?

Do you have any unique advice for a newbs first go at coco that differs from what I'm seeing online? (rinse with ro until run off is clearish, flush with mild nutrients ei Lucas formula with epsom salts, add 25% perlite etc)

**highangle** · 01-07-2016, 03:08 AM

Originally Posted by Greg_o

Question if you would humour me for those with knowledge pertaining to coco (highangel, Mr Stainless etc)

What's your preferred way to prep this stuff prior to adding seedlings?

Do you have any unique advice for a newbs first go at coco that differs from what I'm seeing online? (rinse with ro until run off is clearish, flush with mild nutrients ei Lucas formula with epsom salts, add 25% perlite etc)

Cation exchange is the key with coco.
For the first couple weeks, coco is going to suck calcium and magnesium out of the feed faster than your plants can. And for every positive cal or mag atom (cation) it grabs, it's going to release a negative potassium or sodium anion .
How long this goes on will depend on your water. If you have hard water, it will take less time for your coco to balance cal/mag than if you have RO. Cation exchange is measured in units of mass. You need a certain mass of cal & mag to idealize a certain mass of coco for ganj.

Since I normally don't need a hella lotta medium to start seeds or little plants, I break off chunks from a 5kg bale of GH, Botanicare, or Roots Organic coco, and hydrate it with warm 0/8/16.
Then, over a day or two, I'll flush through a couple more times with Lucas formula with 10ml calmag/gal. This gets me a jump start on the calcium & magnesium cation exchange, while not fucking up my medium by trying to do it all at once with an unbalanced nute program.

When I plant a sprouted seed or transplant a rooted clone into a solo cup 2/3 full of coco, it's not under "full light", so I'll water it in with half strength H3ad (0/6/9).
I'll stay with half H3ad, treating the coco like soil, until the plant gets a good root system. Then I'll top off the coco in the cup, give the little plant more light, and go to full 0/6/9 H3ad Formula, still treating it like soil (letting it almost dry before I feed again). When the plant establishes a good enough root system, I'll start feeding 3x per day, keeping the pot small enough so I don't drown the plant...

PH of feed is very important with coco. With my water, I'll get cal deficiency in most strains I've fucked with unless I run new coco @ 5.6-5.7. Cal is more available below 5.8, mag is more available a tenth or two above ph 5.8.
5.8 is the Golden mean. But I just watch like a hawk and if I see any sign of cal or mag def, I can always fix it with just a tenth or two of ph either way of 5.8. Other than the "jump start" with Lucas I mentioned, I never have to add Calmag, or anything, to H3ad.
I do ph down the water first with dilute phosphoric acid to 6.1-6.2 before I mix in the Micro. Always add Micro to the water first, then Bloom (in case you didn't know that already.) Don't bother measuring coco runoff like soil. It's not worth doing - it's hard to do, and it will fuck you up if you try without a good bit of specialized coco knowledge.

Read: "H3ad Goes Coco" at icmag. He took Lucas' spreadsheet and applied it to coco to be as minimal (cheap) as possible. With a bit of phosphoric acid as ph down, it has everything a plant needs:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=55683

Hundred Gram Oz applied the H3ad to drippers DTW to get an automated hydro system with bigger yields than what H3ad gets treating his coco like soil. This is essentially how and why I do it (oxygen in the root zone!):

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=241341

HGO basically applied the Dutch commercial tulip slab/dripper methods, detailed in Gaismarius' thread, to pots FTW:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=46279

**Bobby Stainless** · 01-07-2016, 03:21 AM

I buy bags of ReadyGro. I don't prep it.

My cuts and seeds are all started in rapid rooters with full strength H3ad, and then put in to red beer cups with the ReadyGro.

I keep them in the beer cups, until I transfer to smart pots.

sb · 01-07-2016, 05:30 AM

Originally Posted by neckdeep

What you are wondering about is explained by the decarboxylation curve. The plant produces THCA. THCA is not psychoactive. THCA must be catalyzed with heat to break off a CO2 molecule (decarbed) and yield the psychoactive THC. A mild acid will further catalyze the process but isn't necessary as there is sufficient acidity present in the plant. Here are links to a graph of the decarb curve and a chart of cook times by method of heat:

https://www.google.com/search?q=deca...ixfbMxBDMGw%3D

https://www.google.com/search?q=deca...ixfbMxBDMGw%3D

When the plant is dried and cured for long periods there is some decarbing going on, but not much. Igniting or vaporizing the plant decarbs its THCA very quickly (typical butane lighter produces 1500-2000 degree flame). Obviously, you aren't making medicinal oil or cannabutter at 2000 degrees so something else is going on, kapiche? Cooking temps require longer catalyzation. The key point is, to make psychoactive edibles, topicals or tinctures, one must introduce heat somewhere along the line to make it psychoactive. To make tinctures, for example, the plant must be dry heated in an oven before being put in the solvent. This is done because alcohol's boiling point is too low for adequate decarbing and when you heat it for long, it quickly turns from tincture to oil. The decarb curve explains why home made Rick Simpson oil often doesn't get you very high when you eat it but it certainly will if you smoke it. The home recipe is typically made with a non-psychoactive tincture (i.e. a solution containing THCA in ethyl alcohol) evaporated with a rice cooker, then purged using the relatively low heat of a coffee maker's warmer plate. The decarb curve also explains why when cannabutter is made as a water bath and you cook the hell out of it, it makes you a lot more sedated than high.

In psychoactive terms: THC = high. CBD = sedated. Both compounds are attributed medical benefits beyond high or sedated, by the way. One line of thought claims the THC is the principal tumor fighting agent and that you don't want to lose to much THC in favor of the CBD. But, if one is using conventional treatments and the main thing is to suppress nausea and pain without being blazed 24/7, then you want to be sure to use a high CBD oil. Is it a cure? I really don't know what to believe and I'm a skeptic at heart. So much anecdotal evidence competing with empirical data. Hope this helps.

Wow, impressive. Thx for taken the time to share.

And BS has an awesome green thumb.

**Bobby Stainless** · 01-07-2016, 09:48 AM

Thanks dude. It's not rocket surgery.

GG#4 at day 25

**Greg_o** · 01-07-2016, 10:29 AM

Originally Posted by highangle

Cation exchange is the key with coco.
For the first couple weeks, coco is going to suck calcium and magnesium out of the feed faster than your plants can. And for every positive cal or mag atom (cation) it grabs, it's going to release a negative potassium or sodium anion .
How long this goes on will depend on your water. If you have hard water, it will take less time for your coco to balance cal/mag than if you have RO. Cation exchange is measured in units of mass. You need a certain mass of cal & mag to idealize a certain mass of coco for ganj.

Understood completely. I have hard tap water (Great Lakes) and an RO filter. Should I KISS and use RO as you've outlined or is there any strategy in perhaps using some of my naturally hard water?

Originally Posted by highangle

Since I normally don't need a hella lotta medium to start seeds or little plants, I break off chunks from a 5kg bale of GH, Botanicare, or Roots Organic coco, and hydrate it with warm 0/8/16.
Then, over a day or two, I'll flush through a couple more times with Lucas formula with 10ml calmag/gal. This gets me a jump start on the calcium & magnesium cation exchange, while not fucking up my medium by trying to do it all at once with an unbalanced nute program.

Can I assume you use General Hydroponics CaMg+? My LHS has this as well as Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus. I don't want to assume all calmag products are interchangeable.

Originally Posted by highangle

When I plant a sprouted seed or transplant a rooted clone into a solo cup 2/3 full of coco, it's not under "full light", so I'll water it in with half strength H3ad (0/6/9).
I'll stay with half H3ad, treating the coco like soil, until the plant gets a good root system. Then I'll top off the coco in the cup, give the little plant more light, and go to full 0/6/9 H3ad Formula, still treating it like soil (letting it almost dry before I feed again). When the plant establishes a good enough root system, I'll start feeding 3x per day, keeping the pot small enough so I don't drown the plant...

PH of feed is very important with coco. With my water, I'll get cal deficiency in most strains I've fucked with unless I run new coco @ 5.6-5.7. Cal is more available below 5.8, mag is more available a tenth or two above ph 5.8.
5.8 is the Golden mean. But I just watch like a hawk and if I see any sign of cal or mag def, I can always fix it with just a tenth or two of ph either way of 5.8. Other than the "jump start" with Lucas I mentioned, I never have to add Calmag, or anything, to H3ad.
I do ph down the water first with dilute phosphoric acid to 6.1-6.2 before I mix in the Micro. Always add Micro to the water first, then Bloom (in case you didn't know that already.) Don't bother measuring coco runoff like soil. It's not worth doing - it's hard to do, and it will fuck you up if you try without a good bit of specialized coco knowledge.

Read: "H3ad Goes Coco" at icmag. He took Lucas' spreadsheet and applied it to coco to be as minimal (cheap) as possible. With a bit of phosphoric acid as ph down, it has everything a plant needs:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=55683

Hundred Gram Oz applied the H3ad to drippers DTW to get an automated hydro system with bigger yields than what H3ad gets treating his coco like soil. This is essentially how and why I do it (oxygen in the root zone!):

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=241341

HGO basically applied the Dutch commercial tulip slab/dripper methods, detailed in Gaismarius' thread, to pots FTW:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=46279

Got it. With points so fine I'll be calibrating the pH meter a lot more often.

I have been reading H3ad goes coco, and will read the other links as well.

Thank you for taking the time to explain all that, I will be following this closely in the next week or so.

**Greg_o** · 01-07-2016, 10:31 AM

Originally Posted by Beer Drinker

I buy bags of ReadyGro. I don't prep it.

My cuts and seeds are all started in rapid rooters with full strength H3ad, and then put in to red beer cups with the ReadyGro.

I keep them in the beer cups, until I transfer to smart pots.

Thank you, we have a new shop opening here, maybe in the future I'll see that brand. (am in Canada)

**highangle** · 01-07-2016, 01:04 PM

Originally Posted by Greg_o

Understood completely. I have hard tap water (Great Lakes) and an RO filter. Should I KISS and use RO as you've outlined or is there any strategy in perhaps using some of my naturally hard water?

KISS is a Lucas variation with GH MaxiBloom powder. I haven't gotten around to trying it yet, but it should work just fine even though it runs @ higher EC than standard Lucas.

Yes, by all means use your hard tap water to help things along in the beginning. Remember, it's a question of mass.
GH makes a "Hard Water" series of nutes. You shouldn't use them with coco unless your water's so hard it plugs your pipes with calcium. Even then, I'd still use the standard nutes in the beginning, 'cause mass...

Can I assume you use General Hydroponics CaMg+? My LHS has this as well as Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus. I don't want to assume all calmag products are interchangeable.

Good point. The little half pint I've had for so long is Botanicare. I think GH is very similar. Check labels or google to be sure.
10cc/gal is the max dose. You probably won't need that much with your tap water.

Got it. With points so fine I'll be calibrating the pH meter a lot more often.

I have been reading H3ad goes coco, and will read the other links as well.

Thank you for taking the time to explain all that, I will be following this closely in the next week or so.

Yeah, do a 2-point calibration with ph7 and ph4 at the temp you want your nutes, about 68f (20c) or a tad lower. Pints of calibration solutions are cheap on Amazon.
Calibration solutions are also great for meter storage. I use an Eco Testr ph pen, and put a little 4.01 solution in the electrode cap. Works great.

Meters - Every expensive Hanna ph/ec/ppm meter I've bought has croaked (usually the EC thingy). You notice H3ad doesn't mention EC very often, and then only when asked directly. You don't need an EC/PPM meter to grow with H3ad. That's a feature, not a bug. Just pay attention when mixing and get the ph right.
I like a syringe for small batches. Precise and highly repeatable.

Hit me up if you need it!