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Thread: PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

  1. #876
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,158
    Aw damn. A nickel is worth five cents. So I typed five, but I actually measured three nickels. Just fifteen cents. So I did it right. Right?

  2. #877
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    66
    Mounted my own fucking skis today. I use a layer of blue painter's tape to make my marks, and a combination of steel ruler, combination square, eyeballs, and a lot of double-checking. Maybe not the simplest way of going about it, but it's worked well for me.

  3. #878
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
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    1,140
    Quote Originally Posted by Gerome View Post
    Aw damn. A nickel is worth five cents. So I typed five, but I actually measured three nickels. Just fifteen cents. So I did it right. Right?
    That would be 5.85mm. 5.5mm is the spec., but who knows whether the 0.35mm difference is the cause of the problem. Certainly can't hurt to try to get it right. Two nickels and a penny is close to perfect. Three quarters is a tad closer than three nickels, though in the other direction. Or find the local gear whore and borrow the gizmo Dynafit provides with new bindings.

  4. #879
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Too far from the snow
    Posts
    508
    I have now mounted or remounted a dozen pairs. This is the best skill EVAR! Screw those jig using Sport Chek retards!!!

  5. #880
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Elmore, VT
    Posts
    1,256

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gerome View Post
    Ok you myofsymfers, I mounted the easiest ski binding combo possible. Dynafit stokes with dynafit ft-12. The problem is that when I pressure the edge of the ski with my Cochise boots, the toes points open up.

    I adjusted the heel screw using five nickels as a spacer. Don't tell me there's ice in my toe holes. I've had these bindings since 2007 and sent them back to dynafit for a warranty repair last year and they sent me new toe pieces. They worked fine with my tlt5 boots prior to removal from my older skis. What's wrong?
    I had that issue once. Turns out it was my boots--teeny tiny cracks in the metal toe fitting. That's where I would look. I only noticed it skating on the flats.

  6. #881
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    193
    Got my first spinner after quite a few mounts. Time to learn a new skill. What size do I drill to use a plastic insert? Is it worth it, or should I just put in a proper BF insert? It won't be a swappable mount.

  7. #882
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
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    21,751
    Quote Originally Posted by Breomonkey View Post
    Got my first spinner after quite a few mounts. Time to learn a new skill. What size do I drill to use a plastic insert? Is it worth it, or should I just put in a proper BF insert? It won't be a swappable mount.
    YMMV, but I've had good success with fixing a spinner by using a little fiberglass insulation stuffed into the hole, mixed with epoxy. My theory is that the fibers help bond to the edges of the hole and the epoxy holds everything in place.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  8. #883
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    On another tangent.
    Posts
    4,028

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by Breomonkey View Post
    Got my first spinner after quite a few mounts. Time to learn a new skill. What size do I drill to use a plastic insert? Is it worth it, or should I just put in a proper BF insert? It won't be a swappable mount.
    Try machinable epoxy and redrill first. 5/16"/8mm hole for nylon tap ins. 1/4" for BF inserts.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  9. #884
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,018
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    YMMV, but I've had good success with fixing a spinner by using a little fiberglass insulation stuffed into the hole, mixed with epoxy. My theory is that the fibers help bond to the edges of the hole and the epoxy holds everything in place.
    This. Fibreglass roof insulation + slow set epoxy. Heavy on the fibreglass, like 4:1, way more than you'd think until it gets almost to a putty consistency. Stuff it in, snug up the screw, leave to set then fully tighten. Easy to re-do if it doesn't work.

  10. #885
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    367
    Just finished mounting my girl friend's skis with Sollyfit plates using tools and techniques pulled from this thread. Easiest mount yet thanks to Jon's bit/tap guide, precise plates and the collective knowledge gained from here. Props to all of the contributors. My contribution is that it's worth the time to clamp the drill guide to the ski so that it doesn't wander while drilling. I tried to drill while holding the guide with my other hand and noticed the guide move a little. The hole was OK, but not perfect. Four of those with D-fit toes might be enough to fuck up a mount. I clamped the remaining holes and they were all perfect.

  11. #886
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,018
    Just got done mounting the last pair of my own fucking skis for this winter. Quiver is looking strong if I say so myself, photo coming soon.

    One hiccup in the last mount: one slight base dimple thanks to me using one screw slightly too long (I wasn't drinking, so there you go). A good fix I improvised was to cut out three tiny circles of Gorilla Tape, stick them on the dimple then clamp it hard with plates each side.

  12. #887
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    T-town, CO. USA
    Posts
    2,098
    Quote Originally Posted by LC View Post
    Just got done mounting the last pair of my own fucking skis for this winter. Quiver is looking strong if I say so myself, photo coming soon.

    One hiccup in the last mount: one slight base dimple thanks to me using one screw slightly too long (I wasn't drinking, so there you go). A good fix I improvised was to cut out three tiny circles of Gorilla Tape, stick them on the dimple then clamp it hard with plates each side.
    Whenever you get a dimple:
    - Remove binding screw ASAP.
    - Heat area with heat gun.
    - Place a metal scraper on base.
    - Pound with hammer.
    - Replace with correct length screw.
    Leave No Turn Unstoned!

  13. #888
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    5,126
    ^^^^^^ this
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  14. #889
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,018
    Quote Originally Posted by DropCliffsNotBombs View Post
    Whenever you get a dimple:
    - Remove binding screw ASAP.
    - Heat area with heat gun.
    - Place a metal scraper on base.
    - Pound with hammer.
    - Replace with correct length screw.
    Yep, I've done that in shops previously but I don't own a heat gun or hair dryer hence the improvised clamp. It worked very well, just sharing the tip.

  15. #890
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    PC, UT
    Posts
    594
    About to mount my first set of tech binders and ran into something that I'm not sure if it's a problem or not. I popped the boots into the bindings just for shits and giggles but noticed that the bindings don't lay flush on the top sheet.

    The toe piece is elevated way up. And if I push the toe down so it sits flush, this is how far the heel lifts:


    Pics are kinda crappy, but it shows the issue. It looks like the boot sole rubber prevents the the toe from rotating completely. Is this gonna be a problem? Do i have incompatible boots/bindings? What do?
    Last edited by BrokeSomeRibs; 01-04-2016 at 03:35 AM.

  16. #891
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Not Brooklyn
    Posts
    8,495
    You have to remove some boot sole rubber. Not uncommon with all the different boot/binding combos out there.

  17. #892
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    PC, UT
    Posts
    594
    That's what I figured. Time to dig out the X-acto knife. Thanks!

  18. #893
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    PC, UT
    Posts
    594
    Mounted my own fucking skis today. Plum Race 170 on Down YW8 186’s from the group buy. Mounted with inserts from BF. Mount is dead fucking center. Beginner’s luck probably.



    Big thanks to all the maggots on this thread who have contributed info over the years and HUGE GIANT thanks to Jonathan S. who provided a heel template and invaluable suggestions before (and during) the job.

    The process definitely took longer than I anticipated as I was dealing with inserts and going slow. It was my first time doing any sort of binding mount but I figured I should sack up and jump straight to pro level mounting with race bindings in inserts. Spent about $120 on tools (bit, tap and tap handle, drill guide block, pozi driver, etc) and parts (inserts, screws, epoxy, vibratite, etc), but I know I'm doing at least 2 more mounts this season, so I'll make my money back before February.

    Some lessons learned:
    • Practice on a dumpster ski first. I suppose a 2x4 could work, but a real ski is definitely a better practice run.
    • I used the folding paper method to find the center line. I made 4 dots along the length of the ski to ensure the line was accurate the entire length. Then connected them with a 48” straight edge. Having a 2nd person to hold the edge while you draw the line helps big time. Make your center mark as long as possible for greatest accuracy.
    • Don’t use blue tape. If you’ve got it, use the tan/manila painters tape instead – it’s relatively transparent so you can lay strips over other strips and still be able to sight through it.
    • The BindingFreedom drill/tap guide block is worth its weight in gold. But it WILL wobble and shift unless you clamp both ends. Be careful when clamping that you don't nudge it.
    • I used a small finishing nail as my center punch. I filed the tip to get it razor sharp. When I had my template lined up, I gave the nail a very gentle tap to pierce the template paper. Then measured those dots in the paper against the ski edge with calipers to ensure both dots were equidistant. Then measure again to be sure.
    • Once I was positive the side-by-side punctures in the template were equidistant to the edges, I lifted the template, then measured the dots in the painters tape below. Once those were confirmed to be accurate as well, only then I lifted up the painters tape on the top skin. Then measured the divots in the top skin. Once those were confirmed to be accurate, I finally drilled and tapped.
    • Getting truly accurate punch-to-edge measurements was proving to be very difficult so I rigged this up. Just a straight edge taped securely onto calipers. Make sure to leave the lowest edge of the left caliper arm exposed so you can confirm alignment hasn’t shifted:
    • BF recommends doing a normal mount with a normal 3.6 or 4.1 bit and normal screws to test fit and function. Once you confirm that everything works, pull the bindings, drill out the holes with the larger insert-specific bit, and then tap/install the inserts. I didn’t do this. I just went straight to inserts. I probably should have done a test mount first. But everything worked out fine.

  19. #894
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    1,140
    That is a sexy, light touring rig. Nicely done.

  20. #895
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Golden, Colorado
    Posts
    5,879
    Looks awesome! Contemplating a similar setup myself.

  21. #896
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,821
    Anyone in the Boulder area have a large Salomon guardian jig-a-rex plate that I can borrow in the near future? PM me if you can assist.

  22. #897
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,929
    I've done 5 mounts thus far, all this year. I haven't yet truly fucked up -- one mount a few mms forward of where I intended (even on both skis), one spinner (drilled out and nylon inserted.)

    But I'm a little nervous about putting a 2nd set of holes in these skis I picked up today.



    Don't worry, they're the sissy 184 version. Thinking Barons off my Megawatts to make this my only touring ski (short pass laps at Luv/Berthoud/Jones and running out the gates at Loveland)

  23. #898
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NWCT
    Posts
    2,392


    Barons on BCs

    Quick and painless

    Shout out to NEBCO for keeping me hydrated while in the man cave

  24. #899
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    5,791
    Re-mounted these beauties at +2cm... you know... for switch landings.

    Freeballed it... no problem.
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    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  25. #900
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
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    5,791
    I'm trying again but something won't let me upload photos properly...
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    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

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