Love york
woke up this am not expecting to surf. Then I started doing my daily recon of buoys, winds, and cams. That's when I threw my shit in the car and headed to the beach.
Super fun sesh with no one else out this am. Surfed from 8-9 in shoulder high clean conditions. Don't know what all the surfers were doin on a Saturday am. I know nh looked like shit with the north winds. Heck even the york cam at mid beach looked like shit due to the angle and where it sits. Best cam ever!
but the buoy and winds don't lie. Forgot my camera at home. It'll stay in the car for the next week as we're looking at a solid 7 days of waist to head and a half surf every day depending on the day.
STOKED!!!
It will stay in the car? Isn't it for talking pictures of the chicken? He (?) will be going of to college in a week! Don't miss it.
Been stormy out here te past week. Runoff. S win chop. Victory at sea with short periods of meh. Tuesday looks promising with a short window of off shores and a nice mid period swell. Wed looks solid with about 10'@18s, but we might see those S winds begin to pick up again. And I can't surf Wednesday anyway, so there is that.
Sounds like things have not changed much. Most folks never considered the Nubble head protection. That was before the cam, but when the winds went N, most I knew headed to Gooches and never went south. BTW, Hollows love that N wind if there is enough swell to get in there. Not that you'd bother driving the 18 miles, but it is a super fun wave. Not mush, like long sands.![]()
SHE
as i've said, the beauty of the cam is that it is too far south to show that there is actually clean surf to the north. the cam pretty much always shows shitty surf, which is why i love that cam so much.Sounds like things have not changed much. Most folks never considered the Nubble head protection. That was before the cam
that's why i don't go to gooches. the place is a shit show when the winds are north. even 99% of the nh surfers i know go straight to gooches when the winds are north. i'd much rather surf alone.but when the winds went N, most I knew headed to Gooches and never went south.
i've heard of it, but yeah, if i don't hafta drive more than a mile from my house, i don't. why leave good surf to find good surf? always been my motto. york is definitely a softer wave, but i'll take softer, clean, and big open walled up faces and no crowds any day.BTW, Hollows love that N wind if there is enough swell to get in there. Not that you'd bother driving the 18 miles, but it is a super fun wave. Not mush, like long sands.![]()
for power and zip i go to ogt. and i surf ogt pretty often. the 5.5 mile drive is torture tho
stoked for tomorrow afternoon.
^^^nice Rog!
Log day! Ha!
head high clean tomorrow just sayin![]()
ok maybe a few head high drops, but mostly very consistent chest to shoulder high with a bit of texture, but not horrible.
finally a true winter paddle out. 13 degree air temp with nne winds at 15 or so and spitting snow. man does 48 degree water feel warm when air temps are in the low teens. waves were super fun. peaking gradually then lining up fat and open for quite a ways in either direction. you could definitely surf them top to bottom if you stayed close to the pocket.
just 3 of us out again this am. the other 2 guys were a coupla hundred yards south of me. they looked kinda chilly sitting way up outta the water on longboards in the cold air. sitting nipple deep on a short board has the advantage there
coupla shots:
just outta the water after a 200 yards sprint up the beach in the cold winter temps and head wind. refreshing.
waves were plentiful this am. not perfect clean, but really pretty nice. that's ice coating the beach
anyone else been enjoying all this surf lately?
Man, I was out on Saturday in 60f water and 68f air. Pudge once asked my why I ever moved away. That is not the reason why I moved away, but it is part of the reason why I don't move back. Glad you enjoy it. Someone has to.
I hear ya. I do enjoy it. Earning turns on washington for so many winters will hard'n up a person. Brutal but super quiet with good snow. Surf's the same way. Last winter we had water 36-37 with air temps at or below zero at times. Amazing how warm i stayed in my basic xcel infinity 5/4. You just get used to it. Those days are good for crowd control. Yer breathing gets really weird at those temps.
You getting any surf out your way? Fucking huge victory at sea today thru late tomorrow here. Actually went mountain biking this am instead.
Back tweak yesterday is keeping me out of the super good surf today. I hate getting hurt in lopsided head high surf just to miss the crisp long period DOH the next day. Oh well. More will come
As for the cold, I think wetsuits have improved since twenty years ago. Or so it would seem. My disposable income has increased as well so I imagine I would not be surfing in a tattered ok 5mil with a spring suit and hooded best underneath.
Ugh hate tweaking the back. Snow shoveling does me in. Luckily we've had no real snow to shovel this year so far. Yes, more always comes. All year
Wetsuit tech gets better by the year i think. I get a new infinity winter suit every other year and my current one held up quite a bit better than the last one.
Going to go to the Wall at some point tomorrow, just to watch. I need to pick up some wax and I just want to see the power. Going out on Thursday if I can make the paddle out.
S winds Thursday will limit options. Tomorrow will be nuts. A bit rich for my blood. And stormy. Buoy close to 20' @ 11 and coming dead on
friday will be sweet most everywhere with perfect winds and swell direction.
It's a short drive up 1A to the campground. Across the river there is a left hand sand point that take a big swell to get in there. You'd be lucky if it is chest high.
What is the wind forecast for that 20@11? BTW, that is like an upside down snow. To tall and close together, IMO. But if you find a place that requires a looooong wrap, it will space out the period.
Going off here today. 14@17^290 is running up and over a 12@14^290. So, yeah, it is solid out there today. Damn lame old man back. And I'm taking the boy skiing this weekend, so I need to recoup. Maybe I'll grab a few picks. Mavs is going as well.
Fox is the call for me tomorrow, my buddies are heading there early for incoming. I won't catch them until noonish. Still going to play it by ear though
Early for incoming? Incoming isn't till after 8am! Lol!
brisk ssw winds. Shorts and ogt will be big and shitshow. My only options. Will wait for tomorrow when winds go straight offshore and everywhere is working.
Dude. He is in college. 8am is early.
oh right I overlooked that. Got some texts from pudge from the new hammy coast. Said one spot wasn't really working and was headed out at another spot. I never went to the beach. Pedaled the bike instead. Winds are finally going offshore for everywhere tonight and it's still around 9' @ 10/11. Tomorrow should be really fun. Will be out early.
what's the word from today pudge?
I'm going for the world record for most amount of salt water swallowed in one surf sesh. Got tossed today.
Fox Hill was good am, got inconsistent once it filled in. Went over to Pirates, dicked around inside for a while. Was pretty much a washing machine once I got out. Some serious hammers though. Hopefully someone in NH made off today, but it was not I, nor anyone I talked to
Also I didn't sleep in! I had a few meetings with professors
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