Scarpa Maestrale RS

[GravityDT]

Looking to get a more hike friendly boot than the Cochise Lights that I'm in right now - has anyone spent any time on both the Maestrale RS and the Cochise ProLight? It looks like the RS will get the nod in the hike dept, will there be much of a trade off if any on the down w/ the RS? Will be pushing skis from 105mm underfoot to 116mm and typically avg 60/40 resort/backcountry with the backcountry tours getting increasingly longer and longer - hence the desire for a more hike friendly boot with more range of motion... and yes, I could/should consider the Mercury/Vulcan but I've been struggling finding a pr to try on locally
Thanks

[icelanticskier]

Cochise prolite=a bit more dh power, but kind of a harsh abrupt forward flex (think shin bang)

RS=better hiker and more ROM.

you ski soft snow? power boots aren't really necessary. sneakers will suffice.

RS is PLENTY powerful for the down, imo. what kinda foot you got? one may fit, one may not. I have a scarpa foot, definitely not a Cochise foot. was flowed a pair of each. sold the Cochise immediately.

rog

[Lindahl]

Cochise prolite=a bit more dh power, but kind of a harsh abrupt forward flex (think shin bang)

Funny, I'd call it pretty progressive. It's a lot stiffer though, so if you're not used to that sort of thing, I guess you could call it abrupt. The other thing is that it can feel abrupt if you don't fill the upper cuff (ie see a boot fitter if you don't). That said, they are built for two different types of feet.

[hegge]

Finally, Scarpa is bringing an improved ski/walk mechanism to the Maestrale line. From looking at the new mechanism, it seems to be retrofittable to all boots with the old mechanism. Was also confirmed by the Scarpa Rep at ISPO.

New mechanism also has a new beefier bar (like 8x8mm Steel) that needs to be retrofitted.

Only drawback so far, it won't be available until next season.

http://www.earnyourturns.com/23167/b...up-for-201415/

[1000-oaks]

^Clever, using a spring bail and square bar stock is an inexpensive way to get two pins into the bar. Stronger though probably heavier, and definitely cheaper to make. Another advantage is the hole through the bar might be exposed in walk mode when the cuff is flexed forward, so if it fills with ice you can poke something through it to clear it out. The pin hole in the prior version was inaccessible unless you removed the ski/walk mechanism.

[CAPHILL]

Finally, Scarpa is bringing an improved ski/walk mechanism to the Maestrale line. From looking at the new mechanism, it seems to be retrofittable to all boots with the old mechanism. Was also confirmed by the Scarpa Rep at ISPO.

New mechanism also has a new beefier bar (like 8x8mm Steel) that needs to be retrofitted.

Only drawback so far, it won't be available until next season.

http://www.earnyourturns.com/23167/b...up-for-201415/

The bar is also self-lubricating.

[neck beard]

After 20 days on the RS, I swear the RS 26 is roomier than the Mango 26.

[skiingsamurai]

im close to pulling the trigger on these guys.

Im pretty new to boots with a tour mode, so is it common to have a little play in the tour mechanism? Not flexing the boot, but just a tiny bit of slop in the mechanism its self.

Anyone?

[1000-oaks]

^ Sure, just a tiny amount though. Tough to make a play-free ski/walk mechanism that's both lightweight and quick-release.

After 20 days on the RS, I swear the RS 26 is roomier than the Mango 26.

I think the 26 RS has a longer shell internally than a 26 Typhoon, even though the Typhoon has a BSL that's 1mm longer. The difference is probably due to the substantially-thinner nylon RS shell walls, vs softer & thicker Pebax walls of the Mango & Typhoon.

The bar is also self-lubricating.

Does the mechanism have a oil-impregnated sintered bronze bushing? I would have guessed just plastic in rub areas, possibly smeared with a little grease.

[pfluffenmeister]

so i flexed the the upper cuff too far and it is now stuck in a rigid "ski" mode with waaaay too much forward lean.

it seems as though others have experienced this as well while skiing in walk mode.
i had one ski submerged under a fuckton of heavy pow and felt the boot move a bit when i was wrenching the ski out.

I've removed the walk/ski mechanism and can almost get the upper cuff over the lower.
but the top portion of the upper cuff is a bit munged up.

has anyone tried to apply a bit of heat to the top portion of the lower shell to make it pliable enough to get the upper cuff back to where it's supposed to be?
or has everyone else that this has happened to just contacted Scarpa?
i would prefer to not lose access to my boots but they aren't real fun to ski at the moment.

how does grilamid (right?) handle heat?


anyway it gave me an extreme "in-the-crapper" position, making me captain tail-gunner on my last run at Silverton last week.

[lynchdogger]

^^^ happened twice.
First time not able to fix on the hill (would have tried but no tools) and second time fixed no problem in less than 5 minutes.

No heat required. Skiing same boots. No issues since. Never any heat needed.

Not much help but ya sure you have screws out - both sides and little one in rear? At least I want to remember there is one back there along the bar. Maybe not.

Hope it works out.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using TGR Forums

[neck beard]

I think the 26 RS has a longer shell internally than a 26 Typhoon, even though the Typhoon has a BSL that's 1mm longer. The difference is probably due to the substantially-thinner nylon RS shell walls, vs softer & thicker Pebax walls of the Mango & Typhoon.

I can't happily ski my RS - too big.

It is proving to be a very expensive season of boot and liner "wong sizes" for me.

I also think the RS ankle strap does a poorer job than the original Mango strap at providing well position heel hold. And the release tab is dinky and jams all the time.

[John_B]

Huh, they feel the exact same to me. I'd certainly agree about the ankle buckle being a pain in the ass. I'm not sure what the reasoning was to switch from the old strap. I think I read somewhere that it somehow increases stiffness a bit.

[neck beard]

Huh, they feel the exact same to me. I'd certainly agree about the ankle buckle being a pain in the ass. I'm not sure what the reasoning was to switch from the old strap. I think I read somewhere that it somehow increases stiffness a bit.

They probably are the same for you. I just can't get the fit out of mine when skiing. I need to crank the buckles more. Guess I might really need to cook my RS liners after all to get some fit around the ankle and achilles.

I can see how the RS strap is designed to block the flex and perhaps add stiffness to the tongue.

[dynamike]

Other than a new ski/walk mechanism, is there anything else new for next year?

[retirwntm]

Bumping this out of curiosity about next seasons version - has anyone else seen them? Tried them?

http://www.scarpa.net/en/ispo-2014-news-collection.html

Looks like a new walk mode bar (someone noted that a few pages back) is the only change. Any other insight?

I've narrowed down between these, Freedom SL and Vulcans. Any comparisons appreciated. I've seen each thread and this was very helpful:

http://earlyups.com/gear-boot-showdown-2014-edition/

Also, as always, I found Lee's reviews on each very helpful:

http://www.tetongravity.com/reviews/...rpa%20freedom/

[WaistDeepGroomers]

I'd say there's not much that will change for next years maestrale. I've been in the freedom, which skis beautifully and is a great boot, but I'd prefer to have the maestrale as it's a little lighter and more touring focused. More 70/30 skinning/resort vs maestrale which would be more 60/40 resort/bc. Maestrales forefront opens fully too making it easier to get off than the overlap freedom shell.

[XXX-er]

http://www.scarpa.net/en/ispo-2014-news-collection.html

looks like 3 models the plain maestrale, RS and GT maybe the GT will be euro's only?

[hutash]

I ski a 26 Mango, and tried on a 26 RS which I found to be way too big. Unfortunately they did not have a 25 to try.

[1000-oaks]

The '13/14 ski-walk mode retrofit kit (free from Scarpa) uses a different bar to prevent over-flexing forward in walk mode. The original bar just has a little round bump that hit a plastic plate, the 2014 bar has a wide latch that stops against a metal plate. It's a MUCH more positive stop, and is pretty easy to install.

[neck beard]

I ski a 26 Mango, and tried on a 26 RS which I found to be way too big. Unfortunately they did not have a 25 to try.

I had exactly this experience, but had to ski them a bunch of times realize something was wrong. It was an expensive WTF.

edit: seems I forgot I already posted this inanity a few months back in this here very thread.

[I've seen black diamonds!]

I ski a 26 Mango, and tried on a 26 RS which I found to be way too big. Unfortunately they did not have a 25 to try.

Weird. I've skied many days or both (27) and found them to fit the same. Had the same punches on both.

[Lindahl]

Probably depends on where the looseness is? Depending on BOTH the boots, and where/how I buckle them, slop has manifested in many different places. Add temperature to the mix (since its spring) and things get even more complicated.

[wildmanwillie]

I ski an older a 2007 24.5 tecnica diablo 110 (285 bsl) and a 25.0 RS (288 bsl). The RS fits very well with pretty good heel retention, I put some C shaped pads in the ankle which improved the ankle hold significantly. This may not be a problem for you, but I have tiny ankles. With around 40 days on the RS, touring as well as in the resort, I prefer them (and their fit) over the diablos for everything except ripping groomers. I have about a 5mm fit in the RS and about half of that with the diablo. The diablos have had 3 toe punches and the RS has not any shell work done.

[I've seen black diamonds!]

Probably depends on where the looseness is?

That was my first thought. I have a very snug fit all around except in front of my (rather short) toes. I don't need the two lower buckles to be tight at all. Perhaps the pebax version folds under buckling force more readily, making it easier to tighten up the fit? Ot maybe the different plastics take a slightly different shape when removed from the mold?