Picture of the Day

[splitter]

not this year...

spring squaw...

[Edgnar]

You'll never get a really sharp night image if you can't take your hand off the camera. I don't know how the Canon works, but on my Nikons I was able to use the little wireless clicker for bulb. One click to open the shutter and another to close it. If your camera can use a wired remote, you can get invervalometer timer remotes on ebay for a little over twenty bucks. You'll get a lot of bang for your buck on that considering how much photography it opens up for you.

For focusing, just put a flashlight about thirty feet away, focus on it and then turn off auto focus. As long as you're using a widish angle lens and stopping down to a 5.6 or so, you'll have the whole thing in decent focus. I think the night focus discussion covered this in greater detail.

I was reading that the other day. I think I need some more practice. These were shot off of my 3rd floor deck last night, sort of on a whim. I'm going to try to go to the photo shop in town tomorrow and see if they have anything reasonable since tomorrow is a full moon. I have a nikon Film camera that I think stays open on bulb with out having to hold the shutter.

Soo much still to learn... and buy... this hobby is expensive!

[mtcham]

Edgnar-good first attempt. Like OB said definately get an IR or preferably a wired release for long exposures. Not sure if this was covered in the other thread but last summer I was doing a lot of night time shots usually around 3-5 minutes at longer distances. I would prefocus all my lenses for distance and mark them, turn AF off and adjust to my marks. Usually this worked out pretty well if you don't have a close subject you also need in focus.

Edit: Should have read thru the night focus thread first-I belatedly seconded Tippster's Tip.

[skiingislife]

A few shots from this afternoon's visit to the Botanic Gardens

[powdork]

been working on my game. my golf game, unfortunately

[Edgnar]

A few shots from this afternoon's visit to the Botanic Gardens

Cool plant/shot

[crackboy]

Edgnar-good first attempt. Like OB said definately get an IR or preferably a wired release for long exposures. Not sure if this was covered in the other thread but last summer I was doing a lot of night time shots usually around 3-5 minutes at longer distances. I would prefocus all my lenses for distance and mark them, turn AF off and adjust to my marks. Usually this worked out pretty well if you don't have a close subject you also need in focus.

Edit: Should have read thru the night focus thread first-I belatedly seconded Tippster's Tip.

or depending on the camera you can use a computer to act as a wired remote with teh right program. lightroom will do some, and there are a bunch of others

[SchralphMacchio]

and mirror lockup isn't going to make much difference on any exposure longer than a second or 2

[YoungManofTheMountain]

[Dromond]

Here's a couple vacation photos:



'''

[outabounds]

Making the most of a night with a shitty sunset and more clouds than stars.

...at least we had a lot of beer and things.

[geomorph]

I was reading that the other day. I think I need some more practice. These were shot off of my 3rd floor deck last night, sort of on a whim. I'm going to try to go to the photo shop in town tomorrow and see if they have anything reasonable since tomorrow is a full moon. I have a nikon Film camera that I think stays open on bulb with out having to hold the shutter.

Soo much still to learn... and buy... this hobby is expensive!

Do fancy DSLR's have self timers? On my P+S, if I'm doing a long exposure, I set it to a 10 second self timer, which is usually long enough for any jiggling to die down.

[SchralphMacchio]

^ they do have a self timer but for any exposure longer than 30s you need to use bulb, which is triggered manually with a start and stop. I don't know how long Ed's exposure was ... I couldn't see the EXIF data.

In bulb mode, the Canon should also display on its LCD how many seconds has passed by in the exposure. So an intervalometer will make your life easier, but also a wired shutter release with locking mode will work as well. I use a $50 Satechi shutter trigger with the RF remote. I think I got the RF working ~120 feet away. I haven't tried it from farther but I might get a chance to do that this weekend for some skiing & snowboarding self portrait projects.

[GoNads]

Morning ritual.


Doggles.

[Edgnar]

Out shooting today for my photo a day project. This might get published there eventually.


Doggie stoke!

[stash searcher]

[Gebster]

Went up to Santa Cruz a few weeks ago and got to see a few surfers riding the waves at Steamers Lane which has a great view from the top of the top of the cliff overlooking a point break

[Edgnar]

I want a wide angle lens...

Anyway, and constructive criticism is welcome. These all have next to no PP. Just dust spot removal.

[mtcham]

Bear L'amour by jrmorris-mt, on Flickr

[powdork]

a little after work play

[splitter]

a little after work play

powdork, you're comin' along...

for this one, you have nice color in the sky and a lot of unusable negative space on the bottom...

I'd say, next time, get lower to get rid of the negative space and silhouette the golfer higher into the sunset...

more sunset, more golfer, less black distraction...

[powdork]

i was limited by the garbage can the camera was sitting on (while i ran over to the tee as fast as i could).
sort of like this?

[Fuzz]

a little after work play

I like the sky too -- maybe use a GND to darken/saturate the sky a bit more to bring out the colors. Crop out the bottom black. Maybe also try doing a narrow crop and turn it into a pano. My only comment would be that the golfer is facing out of the frame -- the action is taking place outside the frame. So maybe recompose to put the golfer to the right so that he is looking/shooting into the frame.

[powdork]

that's the second time i've seen you mention a gnd filter. does that have a different name in ps 6 or is it an extension? i think i'm kind of doing the ghetto version where a i add a new curve adjustment layer and then erase/cut out the parts i don't want adjusted.

and here is the next image of the sequence edited more towards the sky. that's as far left as i can go. i could put the golfer more on the right side, but that would mean cropping out some of the good sky.

[splitter]

you're a pretty damn good pitcher taker

Went up to Santa Cruz a few weeks ago and got to see a few surfers riding the waves at Steamers Lane which has a great view from the top of the top of the cliff overlooking a point break