some waimea shorbreak action for your viewing pleasure, sorry dont' know how to embed this shit
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUwVUNyFDmo
some waimea shorbreak action for your viewing pleasure, sorry dont' know how to embed this shit
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUwVUNyFDmo
Whoa, what you gotta say?? Whoa, girls turn 18 every day!!!
--Vandals
for the lazy
tada!
The only thing worse than the feeling that you are going to die is the realization that you probably won't.
I don't get it... did anyone make any of those waves? They'd like Guatemala; just one big closeout drop with nowhere to go but crush.
Putting the "core" in corporate, one turn at a time.
Metalmücil 2010 - 2013 "Go Home" album is now a free download
The Bonin Petrels
Those fucks are crazy. Thats some wicked shit
Ok, that's what I don't get. While I completely enjoy all of my time in the water, I have yet to drop into a wave (except for in Guatemala and that was for one wave only) that I knew I had no chance of making. Part of what makes it a complete ride for me (and therefore such a challenge) is actually making the wave or section.
To me, that's sort of like skiing and expecting to eat shit on every huck.
Putting the "core" in corporate, one turn at a time.
Metalmücil 2010 - 2013 "Go Home" album is now a free download
The Bonin Petrels
If I were bodyboarding/surfing/bodysurfing those waves (which I wouldn't) I would consider not getting tossed off the lip, not getting bucked off the face, not getting drilled by the lip or not suffering in some other way, making it. Some of the people pulling into the closeout barrels probably just rode/dove out the back, no sweat, thus avoiding the crush. Same thing is possiblle with a surfboard, on some waves even staying on your feet up to the surface is do-able.
That's how I look at it as well. The difference is that it is harmless on small waves and a lot of times the wave will crash on you and you can remain standing.
A friend of mine cared for a guy who became a quad pulling into closeouts at Blacks and I know a guy who broke his neck pulling into closeouts at DMJs. It's fun but, to my mind, it doesn't survive the cost benefit analysis.
An open secret of surf photography is that a lot of the "dream destination" and "secret spot" barrel shots that you see in the magazines are closeouts.
I should want to cook him a simple meal, but I shouldn't want to cut into him, to tear the flesh, to wear the flesh, to be born unto new worlds where his flesh becomes my key.
Putting the "core" in corporate, one turn at a time.
Metalmücil 2010 - 2013 "Go Home" album is now a free download
The Bonin Petrels
Skateboard tricks in the mags are most often landed. Another reason why skateboarding is so hella cool.
(Course, they usually tried it eleventy billion times before landing it.)
spongers are some silly motherflappers.
"Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. The winds will blow their freshness into you, and the storms, their energy. Your cares and tensions will drop away like the leaves of Autumn." --John Muir
"welcome to the hacienda, asshole." --s.p.c.
Ask Brock Little about surfing the shorebreak. I saw video of him getting some bombs there. Bruce Irons also pulled in to the shorebreak and got a close out barrel after his winning ride at the Eddie. Heavy.
I don't see what the big deal is. Teabaggers are used to eating it.
I do both, surfing and sponging. But, when the really big souths start hitting, it's so much fun to hit the beach breaks from from SC to NB, and just get facking slotted beyond belief. If you really want to see something fun, is watching the skimmers at the old Aliso Pier beach, or surfers (Fletcher) out at 10th street in Laguna. As to whoever made the teabaagger comment? go suck a fart out of my ass!!! fuckface!!![]()
Whoa, what you gotta say?? Whoa, girls turn 18 every day!!!
--Vandals
So, do the sponges count in the lineup? I've always had the opinion that you're free to drop in on them.... what's the call on that one?
the wedge can only be fully appreciated in person.
"joey bags" lets go surfing soon, i suck but oh well.......
-aaron
nice post. bodywhomping=fun. for those that haven't done it, you're missing out.
armchair quarterback: didn't notice any sand getting kicked-up in that waimea shorebreak vid, which often means that it ain't extremely shallow, if the bottom is sandy. i've seen the wedge on big and medium-sized days like that, too, but not very often.
kneedropper, does the teleskier count in the lineup, what about the snowboarder? i usually leave my snowboard friends in my dust when the gate drops for chair 10. pretty disrespectful, especially when they drove my sorry ass up at 4am, but they're my friend and understand that sometimes i'm a selfish jerk. respect is a nice thing. getting smacked by a gaper falling off his surfboard sucks. getting dropped in on usually sucks. so does being respectful and missing out on a great wave. would you drop in on a sponger if they were already slotted and you were shoulder hoping? how about that longboarder who sits way outside, rips, and catches every wave that he paddles for? of course, this is generally a moot issue when bodywhomping![]()
Whoa, what you gotta say?? Whoa, girls turn 18 every day!!!
--Vandals
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