Printable View
All the product photos on the website are taken of early (sometimes pre) production photo samples. Those aren’t rivets designed to look like screws, they’re screws. Most of the early boots are not built with rivers.Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalNomad
Screws are heavier and they come unscrewed. There’s a reason why we don’t put them on the touring boots, Especially the cuff bolts. You need to remove anything it takes 10 seconds with a dril bit.
Brilliant and thanks for the link. What/how are connecting loop to the latch? Just tying an overhand?Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalNomad
Got a video or other tutorial that shows how to remove and replace rivets for the diy jongs?Quote:
Originally Posted by couchsending
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Tried them on while killing time in the local shop while my wife got her new boots fitted. Impressions: light weight, skiable moderate flex nice ROM, awkward/painful to put on, tight across the toes, high /loose instep, too much volume in the heel, mediocre Palau liner. Not close enough to my anatomy to bother with, but if they fit and you add Intuitions, they seem like a well executed “do everything ok” ski-touring boot, certainly not an in and out of bounds option, but if the fit is comparable, you’re probably better served sticking with Maestrales (easier entry, and you won’t need to upgrade the liners).
I'll give you preproduction photos, but...Quote:
Originally Posted by couchsending
The cuff and power strap rivets are most definitely designed to look like allen screws/ bolts, and for sure are not. I can understand the rivets for the buckles, but on common things to replace or maintain (cuff and power strap). Vibratite pretty much takes care of something coming undone.
There must be a reason other brands put bolted connections on their cuffs and buckles for their touring boots...scarpa, atomic, la sportiva, dalbello, rossi, fischer, k2, head, bd back in the day. The great thing about a screw is if it starts to loosen you can fix that in the field.
I do a double fishermans. Dyneema is slippery compared to poly or nylon so you want something that has plenty of hold and cinches down. The trick to doing a small loop with a double fishermans is don't pre cut your length so you have a larger working end.Quote:
Originally Posted by hafjell
Triple fishernan wirh dymeema. Normal with nylon cord (less slippery) is a double.
It's not as if you're rapping off of it, but why not do it right ;-)
... Thom
Yeah. The maestrale fit and ease of entry are really nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by kootenayskier
Might need it’s own thread, as it’s a bit of drift from this one; might be one that already exists, but how does one go about getting LESS forward lean out of a boot? How can I make the maestrale more upright boot?
"I like 3 piece boots more than overlap boots"Quote:
Originally Posted by kootenayskier
and
"I don't like boots that don't fit me. Get the boot that fits your foot."
But only if they're red.Quote:
Originally Posted by Summit
Why would you want less forward lean? I want more!Quote:
Originally Posted by SupreChicken
Yeah. That’s the sentiment I was expecting. I want less. My alpine boots are fairly upright. My touring clamps have a steeper ramp angle than my alpine clamps. So if I’m in that setup, I’m skiing in stilettos and I look and feel like a total amateur which I find unnerving when I’m in the BC.Quote:
Originally Posted by xyz
So yeah. Less fwd lean. Without buying a boot that doesn’t fit my foot.
Why not just shim the toe of your touring binding?Quote:
Originally Posted by SupreChicken
I’m in the process of doing that. Acquired shims this weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Worried it will still feel different than my usual, but perhaps not
(grinding teeth because i can't ski all this new pow today post)
So, for the Vulcan fans out there who are thinking about switching shit up, it sounds like:
ZGTP vs. Vulcan
1. Tecnica is softer than vulcan with tongue, slightly stiffer than vulcan without tongue, but more progressive than either. So, ski feel is better and more "overlappy" for the Tecnica.
2. Weight is really close (vulcan slightly lighter perhaps, especially if you remove the lowest buckle/powerstrap and use intuition)
3. Vulcan walks slightly better when the tongue is out, but it's pretty close
4. Tecnica fiddle factor is less vs. Vulcan + tongue in/out transitions, and maybe a push for no tongue transitions (two buckles only with my Vulcans w/toe buckle/powerstrap removed vs. 4 tecnica buckles. Both buckle systems -wire vs. ladder - are a bit fiddly)
5. Vulcans have slightly tighter heel pocket (good for me).
And then Hawx 130 XTD is heavier, walks a bit worse than ZGTP. Yeah?
There's an easy fix for the lack of progressive flex issue in the Vulcan. :FIREdevilQuote:
Originally Posted by Andyski
Attachment 261296
Your easy and mine are two different things :).Quote:
Originally Posted by swissiphic
I actually don't mind the lack of progression in the vulcans that much as my ankle dorsiflexion is the same as that of a metal table leg.
Lol...well, my ankle dorsiflexion is that of a well lubed door hinge... I like lots of ankle flexion but more than that I'm looking for better damping when maching through cut up piles of coastal cement, mogul zipper lines and crossing tracks in the back country. Was pretty cool testing these babies out and feeling the boot flex and absorb shock like a long travel front fork of a dh mtn bike. Totally keep balance on the balls of feet and let the equipment do all the dirty work in shit snow. Werkin on a 5.0 version to make it a truly 'easy' plug and play mod with no alterations to the stock boot. We'll see how that goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyski
Close? 26.5 Zero G Tour Pro weighs in at 1350 grams with stock insole, 26.5 Vulcan weighed 1562 with wimpier Dynafit black insole. However, I had to size up to 27.5 in the Vulcan which was 1590 grams. Not sure about the green-on-green Vulcan, but guessing it weighs about the same as the Mercury did as it is essentially the same boot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyski
Yeah, that’s a bit lazy on my part. 25 Vulcan with no Powerstrap or two buckle is 1350g on my scale. 27.5 ZGTP is 1310, so a 25 might be what, 1210?Quote:
Originally Posted by gregL
I got 1234 g for the 24.5 Tour Pro with footbed in; Blizzard leaves them out of the boots when they ship and the quoted weights are without but few people will ski them that way. Haven't weighed a 25.5. I'm also skiing the Hawx Ultra XTD 26.5 with no power strap @ 1352 g.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyski
Looks like the rivet attaching the second buckle from the toe is more exposed or less sunk than the one on the left side. Has worn a hole in the liner. Will post photos later but wonder if anyone has had luck filing down the underside of a rivet. Doesn’t seem like punching would be the answer but wdik.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
I would just cover it with ductape or I have pieces of plastic bike frame protector
Will try the duct tape. What are the plastic frame protectors?Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Anyone know how to adjust the forward lean correctly? The manual says to flip the plate vertically for either 12 or 13 degrees. My plate has a small notch at one end - which end up is 13 degrees?
Look at how the threaded holes are offset in the posts, and it'll be clear which way moves the exterior bracket up a tiny bit.
The manual seems to indicate that there should be a shim under the plate. In the illustration the shim has an arrow that points down for 12 deg and up for 13 deg. When I unscrewed the plate though there was no shim and nothing with a notch that others have mentioned.
There are no shims. The metal female piece is offset one way so when you flip it it creates more forward lean. If I had one in front of me I'd take pictures. Literally unscrew the screws, flip the metal piece around inside and screw it back together.Quote:
Originally Posted by cuxcrider
For those that may have tried these on in a store and found the instep hight really high, just make sure you're trying them on with a footbed. For the life of me I still can't figure out why they decided to put the footbeds in a bag in the box and not in the actual boots. I've encountered so many people trying them on in shops without footbeds in them. This makes the boot feel rather cavernous.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Lizard-Ski...atch-Kit-ClearQuote:
Originally Posted by hafjell
something like this ^^
they go on the bike frame where the cables will rub off the paint if not protected
Ahh like Zoolander I see now that it is INSIDE the boot, underneath the black sticker.Quote:
Originally Posted by couchsending
First day on mine today. A very refined and responsive boot. Light feeling and stiff, progressive as advertised.
Smashed out a couple inbound laps then headed out for a tour. They easily drive my 4frnt Hojis. Transitions were quick enough. I didn’t have to reset buckles if I undid them bottom up.
Liners were definitely colder than my intuitions. The also felt a little short. I’ll try my power wraps in them to help them ski more like an alpine boot.
I left my forward lean in the stock setting -which is apparently 13 degrees. Added the spoiler too. I wasn’t wanting any more forward lean.
I’m a 11 US with about a 102 last. I’m in a 27.5 and don’t think I’ll need any boot work. I usually don’t.
But what about the ultra light dalby
10 days or so on mine so far, and I echo much of what has already been said. Articulation is significantly better than my Mtn labs or Maestrales, and you can rip everything, including inbounds shitfuck, without having to be totally on it all the time. My 26.5 Mtn labs with a booster strap came in at 1620g, my zero gs come in at 1327.
Out of the box, I skied them with my usual insoles at the resort and experienced pretty bad instep pain, which led me to panic that I’d made a bad decision. Cooked the liners with a fatter insole and foam shims on my surfers knots, day 2 my instep pain was bearable, now on day 10 they fit perfectly, with no pain after long days inbounds and touring. After going through a similar process last year with the alien rs, I’ve come to trust that even a very thin liner will pack out accommodate my pretty average feet after a bit of mileage.
Added laces and spoiler, both of which further improved things. I’ve developed a routine with transitions that has reduced the fiddle factor of those wire buckles.
Carbon plastic is magic and should be worshipped.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
I got my wife some Atomic HawX 130XTD in the 26.5 size so had a chance to ski my ZeroGs back to back with my old Vulcans and the 130XTD.
The Atomics are stiffer than the ZeroGs. I buckle them lightly; Shar barely buckles them. Both the HawX and the ZeroG feel way more progressive and more alpine-like than my old Vulcans. In fact its only when you're on a decent flexing boot like rhe HawX or ZeroG that you realize how on - off the Vulcan is.
I still find that I have to fart around with the HawX more for touring. All the buckles and the powerstrap has to be undone for its good ROM. Not so with the ZeroG where I throw open the 2nd and 3rd buckles but otherwise leave other buckles done up.
After some 50days on the ZeroG the stock liner still feels fine. There's no appreciable wear or slop. All looks good
The deals on these things are so good right now - even down to $399 - which doesn't seem to be the case for any other of the top line touring boots ($650+ at a minimum). It almost seems strange given how much people seem to like these things...
I've read the full thread and it seems like these are actually fairly comparable to the krypton/il moro in terms of fit? I've got a narrow, low volume foot and I'm frankly thinking of just taking the leap on these from an online retailer given how cheap they are currently selling for, although any additional thoughts on the dalbello comparison would be appreciated.
Other issue to contend with is that i typically ski a pretty tight performance fit in 29.5 dalbellos, which have a 336 bsl. On the ZeroG, 29.5 sits at 333 and the 30.5 at 343. Thoughts on which way to go? (yes, I know the answer is go try them on, but if I were to just order them, which way would you go?)
You may be seeing the clearance prices for last year's model (e.g. https://www.evo.com/outlet/alpine-to...ro-g-guide-pro). The new model sells for around $900USD.Quote:
Originally Posted by RonMexico
Ah you're right. Sounds like some changes to the plastic, but any other major differences? Did I hear there were changes to the heel cup? Still seems like a really good price.
2019 boot is 100% new.
welp, back to the drawing board i guess. will probably have to get a second job just to afford a damn tech boot.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000-oaks
If you're not counting grams and don't need a rockered sole, a 2017 or 2018 Cochise 120 with an Intuition liner is pretty light and skis very well. Almost same boot as same year Zero G Guide Pro, except cuff is a bit heavier and factory liner is way heavier.
What was the process for cooking the liners?Quote:
Originally Posted by abp