At least a #3 Philips. Kills me to see bindings adjusted and heads stripped with a #2.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
But yes, buy a pozi #3 and leave it in your ski bag.
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At least a #3 Philips. Kills me to see bindings adjusted and heads stripped with a #2.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
But yes, buy a pozi #3 and leave it in your ski bag.
What did they rebuild on the bindings?Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
Yes, I assumed they were stripped and the Pozi #3 wouldn't bite. If you haven't tried that, buy the bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
Or try a #2 square/Robertson drive tip
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FYI, this was how I received the bindings and not a result of my efforts to unscrew the heel. Thanks for the suggestions
The reason I sent it back was that the din calibration window was damaged, so I couldn't set the din. Their service department was super helpful and rebuilt the heel completely.Quote:
Originally Posted by gwat
Can't wait to mount my own gosh-darned skis! Ready to summit some peaks!
Attachment 231910
so I had to plug some old holes in a ski, I didn't have any plastic plugs, IME golf tees kind of suck and that piece of dowel I bought for the purpose is lost, but I found a bag of probably Bamboo wooden skewers in the cultlery drawer, which are EXACTLY the right size to fit snuggly into the holes
So cut them into 1/2" pieces, drop a little 2 part into each hole, start the pieces in the holes, hammer them down and bobs yer uncle
not really a game changer
probably more of a Macgyver move
If I don’t have plugs, I just fill the hole with JB weld.
Use a paper clip to fill the hole with epoxy.
Use a hairdryer or torch to get it to flow in.
Strongest plug. Not as quick as plastic.
well YMMV but IME I get voids/gaps/bubbles trying to fill a screw hole and JB weld is THE worst epoxy product for filling a hole cuz it does not flow and its an ugly color on my ski
so IME I also need some material to fill up the void
scaming plugs from a ski store works ok but might cost you a 6-pak
golf tees need to be sanded down a bunch to fit
but the BBQ skewers are cheap & fit really nice
^^^^ the heat makes it flow. Clear epoxy also works.
As the heat makes the epoxy slide down, use the paperclip to pop any bubbles. Drip more epoxy in, let that flow. It’s pretty easy with heat.
Once I ran out of black plugs, gray was all I had, so I’m used to the color.
But good idea on the wood skewers.
Everybody should have a Grabit Screw Extractor Kit, you'll have that out in seconds just using the reverse-drill end. I use mine way more often than I like.Quote:
Originally Posted by Teenaged
It came out with some oil and patience, hopefully now the rust will be off the threads so it won't be as hard to put it back onQuote:
Originally Posted by 1000-oaks
Quick question—
I bought a pair of Wrens that have two sets of freedom inserts mounted. I'm planning on throwing a third mount on for a set of pivots. Plenty of space for the mount, but I'm wondering about just leaving the inserts open.
They're supposed to be watertight, right? I'm never going to use them, but I'm weighing throwing some epoxy in the holes just to be safe.
Has anyone had a problem letting the inserts just be when not using them ever? They're going to be covered by the pivots, so I worry about them just being open and uncovered beneath them.
They have a flat closed bottom. So no water could get into the core.
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https://www.facebook.com/danielle.ma...515182439/?t=3Quote:
Originally Posted by JayPowHound
the vid^^ duno if you can see this ?[
nopeQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
there is so much right in this picher...really a quintessential TRG photoQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
hopefully you have it backed up and available for the good of all of magdom
hopefully, that vid above can break out of the book of feces
ya the vid has surfaced on someones FB page so its only a matter of time before I get a copy that will play
I picked up a pair of 195 Rossignol Bandit 108s last night at Play-It-Again because, well, they were $30 and why not?
I only have the normal drill bit, not the one that is spec'ed for skis with metal in them. I was gonna mount some shitty look demo bindings i have in my garage and take them out for a few runs this spring. I feel like using my normal drill bit will work out fine, but am will reconsider if folks here tell me its a terrible idea. Seems like a ski that doesnt want to turn at all until i reach a speed i am not at all comfortable crashing at haha, so id rather not have a binding rip out... or fuck up my drill bit.
I layout using a T-square drawing on masking tape and I always just use a regular bit
I suggest use a drill stop so you don't drill thru the ski
I drill thru a piece of wood, a wine bottle cork is perfect
I slide the drill bit in or out of the chuck to leave how much depth I want
I supose you could tap the holes but I never do
I mount the screws with epoxy
The recommendation is use the bigger 4.1 bit and tap so they don't volcano up. Never tried not doing either, so I say go for it and report back.Quote:
Originally Posted by californiagrown
I have a Wintersteiger(sp?) drill bit that i used to mount 3 fucking skis this past winter, but its the normal sized one... 3.6mm? Not the one specific for skis with metal in them. Oh well, ill just try it and see what happens. Worse case, i make a shot ski.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
well after using yer 3.6mm you could chase the hole with the correct size?
I'm mounting an AT binding right now by drilling a pilot hole with a very small bit, check placement, follow up with the right size and then putting the chamfer on the hole with a 5/16ths rotated by hand
its all pretty slow going and best done while listening to CBC radio and drinking massive quantities of espresso
First, a #20 [or #21] drill bit is *really* close to a 4.1mm bit. I've seen them in hardware stores, like Ace. You might call around to a real hardware store [NOT HOME DEPOT, they are not a hardware store.] and see if they have one. Easy, cheap, no shipping, you may be able to get it today etc. This is the very best option.Quote:
Originally Posted by californiagrown
But, if not- then...
I've done it fine. A tiny bit of volcano, but only slightly. And you can improve on my method.
Here's what I would do to reduce the volcano effect, and it's pretty trivial.
If you have the 12AB tap use it. [I'm 99.9% sure you don't or you'd have said. And it's pretty unlikely you'd have the tap and not the 4.1mm bit.]
So, use the screws as your tap. I'd probably only use one [or two to spread the wear/heat some.]
Simply drill the holes - making sure not to go too deep, or through the ski [unless that's your intent.]
Then *without* the binding, simply run the screws into the holes as your tap.
Things to keep in mind:
Keep the screw as perpendicular as you can.
Since you don't have a binding attached, don't run the screw all the way to the shank. This will be FAR worse than drilling all the way through the ski. [Using a manual screw-driver will help, at least some, here.]
Do each hole in turn. The screw is going to get hot, perhaps REALLY hot. Switch around to another screw, if you like. Try to watch that you don't damage the threads on the screw too much. If they're wearing a lot after several holes, switch screws.
Then, after "tapping" all the holes, pull the screws out and then use epoxy [or at least wood glue] and mount with the bindings.
Tighten down to a reasonable level.
You're good.
Almost certainly you'll do just fine.