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Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
twelve inches ain't shit... just ask yo momma. or the folks at dryden central school that had a hydrostatic relief valve fail resulting in the full size competition pool floating 8 feet up on the groundwater taking the building foundation with it. it was a sight to behold.
fact.
My pool is 1975Quote:
Originally Posted by WWCD
No cracks. Thick. Not going anywhere.
I should do the coping. Chiseled and replaced the tiles at the waterline when I moved in eleven years ago.
Old pools are good pools.
Just make sure you winterize properly. Frozen pipes are my fear.
But painting every five to seven is the price of admission.
And if you can, drop the dough for an automatic cleaner.
gunite can be great, but it really depends on your water chemistry. if your makeup water is calcium deficient, the water will suck it out of the gunite causing failure over time. that's not a problem if your make up water is calcium rich.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shredhead
True. Anyone investing in a new pool or finish, should get a good Taylor pool chemistry test kit.
My kids sink drain is leaking. This was done by the previous owner]
Attachment 501988
Apparently there are a lot of gaskets. And the metal tube is able to slide into the narrow part of the white PVC.
I sent him to Ferguson with the picture and the parts. Hopefully they can hook him up with the right parts.
Apparently he does not own a snake, a pipe wrench, or anything that can cut pvc.
He was going to call a plumber. He was complaining about the cost of the electrician the management company called to change a light bulb in his rental. Wait until he finds out what a plumber will cost to fix all that.
J trap is backwards.
For starters. That's why he's going to need to cut the pvc. Except the PVC is too big for the metal down tube, which is one of the places it's leaking.
The upper white nut should be a slip coupling with a plastic compression fitting. Those rarely leak since water is flowing down from the metal tailpiece.
The lower connection between the metal and pvc probably has a rubber gasket.
If you loosen both, you can slide the pvc up and take out the lower gasket and bring it to a good hardware store for a fresh one.
Or. Before any of that just try tightening the nut. He needs a channel lock slip plier either way.
Or. Aqua seal. Eh?
PS. You said leaking from the metal tailpiece? Above the pvc? That’s odd. Of it’s from up high then it’s the sink gasket or plumbers putty.
If it’s just the white nut he could mcgyver it with silicone caulk. If it’s the lower metal nut then it needs a new gasket if tightening doesn’t work.
I had somewhat of the same thing.....Had to clean a drain and was leaking, whatever. I was really torquing down the top plastic compression fitting and still leaking. Then figured I may be tightening the fitting out of order. Started from the wall, tightening those, then worked up to the one that discharges from the sink. No leaks now.
My son says the sink drains fine but after it empties the water in the drain tube is within a few inches of the sink. I'm thinking there may be a problem with the connection to the main DWV--maybe an uphill slope. Maybe the previous hack reversed the trap and added the white piece to lower the trap so the drain tube wouldn't back up into the sink, although I'm not sure how that would help. Anyway, this seems to be beyond my meager homeowner plumbing knowledge.
I've never used AQS on plumbing but you could just do it in place it in place and don't move that bucket unless/ until you are moving out at least when people are viewing or WTF
I'm a big proponent of disguising " deferred maintenance" so back in the day I put a portable DW diagonaly over a lifted vynal floor seam ( it had leaked) I nailed down to fix later but we got moved so I didnt want the house inspector for the RE buy-out to notice, the wife said that looks stupid, I said leave it exactly there trust me and the inspector never moved it/ never noticed
there is a very minor brownish stain in the back seat of my tacoma, I duno how it got there cuz Donld Trump has never sat back there so I just put a bag of re-usable shopping bags over it for when the sales manager did the once over for trade-in and it didnt look like he moved them either
I will be in a basement, working overhead to remove batted fiberglass insulation from between floor joists. The insulation is held securely in place by chicken wire. Yay.
An oscillating multi-tool or side cutters will be used to cut chicken wire. A claw hammer, pliers, screwdriver, or awl will be used to pull staples and other chicken wire fasteners. There will be some work around existing plumbing and electrical. I will wear a hooded and booted Tyvek suit and full-face respirator. I will use an air mover at one end of the basement to attempt a draft.
Tools and Supplies:
Tyvek suit
Full-race respirator with filters (3M or Honeywell?, recommendations?)
Gloves
Trash bags (or roll-off, I need to estimate total waste)
Trash can
Multi-tool with extra blades
Side cutters
Claw hammer
Pliers
Screwdriver
Awl or hooked pick
Work lights (recommendations for corded and cordless?)
Extension cords
What should I know? What am I missing?
Why cut the chicken wire? Why not just pull the fasteners? Why not find some guy at HD to do it?
Instead of work light, how about headlamp.
Fencing pliers would probably be the best for pulling staples.
Bandaids (even with the gloves.)
Is the chicken wire secured so well that you can't just pull it down? What's it held up with, hognails?
And you can cut that chicken wire with a small circular saw. Blows right through that shit. Just cut near the fastener.
I cut metal roof tin on a table saw regularly.
Fencing pliers and headlamp are good recs, thanks. One of the mini circular saws/cut-off tools is another possibility, thanks. Fasteners will be pulled where reasonable but working around existing plumbing and electrical means cutting some of the chicken wire. Think p clamps and bell hangers.
Angle grinder with a cut-off wheel would be easier to hold overhead than a circular saw.
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dremel would work on chicken wire...
Attachment 502508
Attachment 502509
Decided to try to remedy wobbly shitter in basement guest bath.
Should I just shim the toilet and caulk the gap, or should I cut out the flange, shorten the pipe, and install a new flange?
This is my first (toilet) rodeo.
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did you pull a permit for that wax ring?
Personally I'd cut out the old flange, and then hog out the tile to allow the new closet flange to sit lower. And always caulk the toilet to the floor.
Working overhead I'd be inclined to use a tin snips on the chicken wire. Slower but I'd rather not have metal dust falling on me, and easier to work around obstructions. Especially if I can pull the staples and pull most of it down without cutting.
you gotta use a batterypowered powertool
if the tiolet flange wasn't going to be cut down there was no point in doing anything, just watch sports on TV
Are the screws all the way in?Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
No screws. Just Aquaseal.Quote:
Originally Posted by half-fast
I’m not sure if this is the right thread but after doing a ton of work on my house and buying some special tools I’m wondering how I ever lived without a:
1.) tracksaw.
2.) multi tool (not a leatherman but one of those oscillating blade deals)
That reinforces my desire for a tracksaw
new sauna could be the right project to do it
I've done this before, but crawling on my back in 2-3 ft crawl space. I couldn't last too long in the Tyvek.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazderati
Get a cheap painters hood. It's a cheap ass noggin sock that's probably on the painting aisle at home Depot.
I went with full coveralls with a collar that buttoned up above the bottom edge of the hood. I had some boot bands that came with my fishing boots to lock my pant legs onto the boots. Maybe not an issue in a basement, but I was swimming in spiders and other bugs whilst prone.
Your hands will get sweaty, but I highly recommend the cheap PVC coated gauntlet gloves. The gauntlet size can be tucked into the coverall sleeve and buttoned down to maintain a seal. Palmflex is the best glove website.
Are you just removing or also reinstalling?
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Good info. Gauntlet-length gloves are a good rec. Removing then insulating the rim joist / sill plate perimeter. With what? Not sure, yet. I like the idea of foam board but the labor would be insane.
I did our rim joists a few years ago with spray foam. I used a kit from Home Depot. Expensive but easy to install once everything was exposed.
Spray foam was suggested and seems like the easiest way. May end up going that way but I don't like the stuff.
I’ve also seen people gluing rigid foam into joist bays w/ the joint sealing foam then lining the perimeter with the joint sealing foam to finish ea bay
I started a thread in tech talk a little while back asking about table saws. The maggot brain trust talked me into a track saw instead. They were 100% right - it's awesome. I use it all the time (with the caveat that I also have a small table saw that I also use all the time).Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
I got the makita and two 55" tracks that can be joined. Works great.
+1 on the track saw, also have the makita as well as a small table saw.
have built a sauna, and it would have sucked without the table saw.
track saw is a star when cutting sheet goods, or odd angles, currently using it while replacing some boat decking.
Table saw would be my first choice for furniture making. It's a more versatile tool. Miter saw is number two. A track saw is a nice luxury if you're making a lot of plywood boxes and for construction.
Table saws are the only tool for casework, but for other types of furniture and other work other saws might be useful (the old school tool for planking/decks is a ship saw, a bandsaw where the table stays flat but the whole blade assembly moves), and if you don’t have a huge workspace a track saw makes cutting down sheet goods much easier, even if it is slower.
multitools are fantastic, and the difference in vibration reduction between the shit ones and the good ones (fein) is worth the money.
I've also heard the opinion that a bandsaw is better than a table saw because it can ripa crooked board, which a table saw can't, I disagree because I do a lot of joints on the table saw. In the end it comes down to what kind of work you are doing, what tools you already have, and how the various tools complement each other. Also how old and arthritic you are. I used to do a lot more sawing, jointing, and planing by hand than I do know.Quote:
Originally Posted by dunfree
This isn’t exactly the right thread, but maybe I should start a new thread with “previous owner’s comedic fuck ups”. We moved into a new place and I’m basically just fixing shit.Attachment 502798
This one’s really good because you can see the outline of the crawlspace right next to where they drilled the hole.
Attachment 502799
Also retrofitting in coaxial cable and phone lines. What the fuck ?
Amen. I won't buy a house again without having enough money left over to fully gut and remodel the previous owner's fuck ups into oblivion.
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When we bought our house in Truckee all the outlets were wired with the polarity reversed. The cathedral ceiling was paneled with 1x6 redwood suspened between the rafters on narrow strips. They were cut too short so every once in a while a plank would fall out. Somehow no one was ever brained and nothing was broken. When we doubled the insulation between the rafters we rehung the planks on thicker ledgers.
Possibly in the previous owners defense...that looks like the horrible shit that cable company installers love to do. Zero thought for aesthetics or anything else...just drill the most direct path and GTFO.Quote:
Originally Posted by plugboots
When I lived somewhere that had two competing cable companies, you'd see it get real bad in older multifamily buildings with rentals and limited oversight...new tenant would move in, call company B for service. Company B installer sees a line from Company A and doesn't want to trace it outside and patch into it so he just drills a new one. Next tenant moves in and calls Company A...but they also want a line in the bedroom (and the last line was company B anyways), so the A installer runs a new line on the other side of the room and then passes a split leg through the closet walls to get to the bedroom.
And the outsides of the building end up turning into rats nest of cables run in straight lines in every direction rather than being nicely packed together and routed to each unit. I lived in a 100 year old walkup in a college neighborhood and twice in 2 years we had a tech cut our line when trying to disconnect someone else's service...
Field tech that fixed it says he sees it a lot...the independent contractors that do installs/disconnects are paid by the visit and don't want to spend time figuring out how to trace the right line to the box and unplug it...so they just start guessing cutting cables until the cutoff customer is disconnected (and it works out ok 80% of the time since most of the cables hanging off the building are inactive).