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Thread: Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

  1. #10126
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    59715
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    J trap is backwards.

  2. #10127
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    truckee
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    24,869
    For starters. That's why he's going to need to cut the pvc. Except the PVC is too big for the metal down tube, which is one of the places it's leaking.

  3. #10128
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Yonder
    Posts
    22,532
    The upper white nut should be a slip coupling with a plastic compression fitting. Those rarely leak since water is flowing down from the metal tailpiece.
    The lower connection between the metal and pvc probably has a rubber gasket.
    If you loosen both, you can slide the pvc up and take out the lower gasket and bring it to a good hardware store for a fresh one.
    Or. Before any of that just try tightening the nut. He needs a channel lock slip plier either way.

    Or. Aqua seal. Eh?

    PS. You said leaking from the metal tailpiece? Above the pvc? That’s odd. Of it’s from up high then it’s the sink gasket or plumbers putty.
    If it’s just the white nut he could mcgyver it with silicone caulk. If it’s the lower metal nut then it needs a new gasket if tightening doesn’t work.
    Kill all the telemarkers
    But they’ll put us in jail if we kill all the telemarkers
    Telemarketers! Kill the telemarketers!
    Oh we can do that. We don’t even need a reason

  4. #10129
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    448
    I had somewhat of the same thing.....Had to clean a drain and was leaking, whatever. I was really torquing down the top plastic compression fitting and still leaking. Then figured I may be tightening the fitting out of order. Started from the wall, tightening those, then worked up to the one that discharges from the sink. No leaks now.

  5. #10130
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    24,869
    My son says the sink drains fine but after it empties the water in the drain tube is within a few inches of the sink. I'm thinking there may be a problem with the connection to the main DWV--maybe an uphill slope. Maybe the previous hack reversed the trap and added the white piece to lower the trap so the drain tube wouldn't back up into the sink, although I'm not sure how that would help. Anyway, this seems to be beyond my meager homeowner plumbing knowledge.

  6. #10131
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    33,995
    I've never used AQS on plumbing but you could just do it in place it in place and don't move that bucket unless/ until you are moving out at least when people are viewing or WTF

    I'm a big proponent of disguising " deferred maintenance" so back in the day I put a portable DW diagonaly over a lifted vynal floor seam ( it had leaked) I nailed down to fix later but we got moved so I didnt want the house inspector for the RE buy-out to notice, the wife said that looks stupid, I said leave it exactly there trust me and the inspector never moved it/ never noticed

    there is a very minor brownish stain in the back seat of my tacoma, I duno how it got there cuz Donld Trump has never sat back there so I just put a bag of re-usable shopping bags over it for when the sales manager did the once over for trade-in and it didnt look like he moved them either
    Last edited by XXX-er; 10-15-2024 at 12:07 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  7. #10132
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    11,005
    I will be in a basement, working overhead to remove batted fiberglass insulation from between floor joists. The insulation is held securely in place by chicken wire. Yay.

    An oscillating multi-tool or side cutters will be used to cut chicken wire. A claw hammer, pliers, screwdriver, or awl will be used to pull staples and other chicken wire fasteners. There will be some work around existing plumbing and electrical. I will wear a hooded and booted Tyvek suit and full-face respirator. I will use an air mover at one end of the basement to attempt a draft.

    Tools and Supplies:
    Tyvek suit
    Full-race respirator with filters (3M or Honeywell?, recommendations?)
    Gloves
    Trash bags (or roll-off, I need to estimate total waste)
    Trash can
    Multi-tool with extra blades
    Side cutters
    Claw hammer
    Pliers
    Screwdriver
    Awl or hooked pick
    Work lights (recommendations for corded and cordless?)
    Extension cords


    What should I know? What am I missing?

  8. #10133
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    24,869
    Why cut the chicken wire? Why not just pull the fasteners? Why not find some guy at HD to do it?
    Instead of work light, how about headlamp.
    Fencing pliers would probably be the best for pulling staples.
    Bandaids (even with the gloves.)

  9. #10134
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Down on Electric Avenue
    Posts
    5,109
    Is the chicken wire secured so well that you can't just pull it down? What's it held up with, hognails?

    And you can cut that chicken wire with a small circular saw. Blows right through that shit. Just cut near the fastener.
    I cut metal roof tin on a table saw regularly.

  10. #10135
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    11,005
    Fencing pliers and headlamp are good recs, thanks. One of the mini circular saws/cut-off tools is another possibility, thanks. Fasteners will be pulled where reasonable but working around existing plumbing and electrical means cutting some of the chicken wire. Think p clamps and bell hangers.

  11. #10136
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,926
    Angle grinder with a cut-off wheel would be easier to hold overhead than a circular saw.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

  12. #10137
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    on the banks of Fish Creek
    Posts
    9,234
    dremel would work on chicken wire...

  13. #10138
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
    Posts
    7,192
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Decided to try to remedy wobbly shitter in basement guest bath.
    Should I just shim the toilet and caulk the gap, or should I cut out the flange, shorten the pipe, and install a new flange?
    This is my first (toilet) rodeo.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    However many are in a shit ton.

  14. #10139
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    on the banks of Fish Creek
    Posts
    9,234
    did you pull a permit for that wax ring?

  15. #10140
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    8,282
    Personally I'd cut out the old flange, and then hog out the tile to allow the new closet flange to sit lower. And always caulk the toilet to the floor.

  16. #10141
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    24,869
    Working overhead I'd be inclined to use a tin snips on the chicken wire. Slower but I'd rather not have metal dust falling on me, and easier to work around obstructions. Especially if I can pull the staples and pull most of it down without cutting.

  17. #10142
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    33,995
    you gotta use a batterypowered powertool

    if the tiolet flange wasn't going to be cut down there was no point in doing anything, just watch sports on TV
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #10143
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    upstate NY
    Posts
    2,351
    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	502509
    Decided to try to remedy wobbly shitter in basement guest bath.
    Should I just shim the toilet and caulk the gap, or should I cut out the flange, shorten the pipe, and install a new flange?
    This is my first (toilet) rodeo.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Are the screws all the way in?

  19. #10144
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
    Posts
    7,192
    Quote Originally Posted by half-fast View Post
    Are the screws all the way in?
    No screws. Just Aquaseal.
    However many are in a shit ton.

  20. #10145
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    panhandle locdog
    Posts
    8,159
    I’m not sure if this is the right thread but after doing a ton of work on my house and buying some special tools I’m wondering how I ever lived without a:
    1.) tracksaw.
    2.) multi tool (not a leatherman but one of those oscillating blade deals)

  21. #10146
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    21,213
    That reinforces my desire for a tracksaw
    new sauna could be the right project to do it

  22. #10147
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,924
    Quote Originally Posted by Mazderati View Post
    I will be in a basement, working overhead to remove batted fiberglass insulation from between floor joists. The insulation is held securely in place by chicken wire. Yay.

    An oscillating multi-tool or side cutters will be used to cut chicken wire. A claw hammer, pliers, screwdriver, or awl will be used to pull staples and other chicken wire fasteners. There will be some work around existing plumbing and electrical. I will wear a hooded and booted Tyvek suit and full-face respirator. I will use an air mover at one end of the basement to attempt a draft.

    Tools and Supplies:
    Tyvek suit
    Full-race respirator with filters (3M or Honeywell?, recommendations?)
    Gloves
    Trash bags (or roll-off, I need to estimate total waste)
    Trash can
    Multi-tool with extra blades
    Side cutters
    Claw hammer
    Pliers
    Screwdriver
    Awl or hooked pick
    Work lights (recommendations for corded and cordless?)
    Extension cords


    What should I know? What am I missing?
    I've done this before, but crawling on my back in 2-3 ft crawl space. I couldn't last too long in the Tyvek.

    Get a cheap painters hood. It's a cheap ass noggin sock that's probably on the painting aisle at home Depot.

    I went with full coveralls with a collar that buttoned up above the bottom edge of the hood. I had some boot bands that came with my fishing boots to lock my pant legs onto the boots. Maybe not an issue in a basement, but I was swimming in spiders and other bugs whilst prone.

    Your hands will get sweaty, but I highly recommend the cheap PVC coated gauntlet gloves. The gauntlet size can be tucked into the coverall sleeve and buttoned down to maintain a seal. Palmflex is the best glove website.

    Are you just removing or also reinstalling?

    Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

  23. #10148
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    11,005
    Good info. Gauntlet-length gloves are a good rec. Removing then insulating the rim joist / sill plate perimeter. With what? Not sure, yet. I like the idea of foam board but the labor would be insane.

  24. #10149
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    1,629
    I did our rim joists a few years ago with spray foam. I used a kit from Home Depot. Expensive but easy to install once everything was exposed.

  25. #10150
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    11,005
    Spray foam was suggested and seems like the easiest way. May end up going that way but I don't like the stuff.

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