Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[toast2266]

Can you pull up the edges, cut them down a bit to create an expansion gap, then reinstall? Or if it's just up against drywall, just cut the drywall out at floor height. Seems like that'd make any repair you did in the middle a longer term fix.

If it's only buckled right in the middle, could you pull those up, cut out the shitty nails, and then glue those middle pieces back down? You'd have to cut off the tongues to be able to get it back in, but that's probably OK all things considered. (I'm not a flooring guy, so maybe this is a terrible idea, but it seems like if you did that + cutting an expansion gap on the edges, the floor would basically expand / contact away from the middle glued pieces. )

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[RootSkier]

If you step on the buckled part, does it go back down? If so, I agree with the above two posts. Pull the baseboard and cut the sheetrock so the floor can move or pull the edge pieces, rip so there is a gap, and reinstall. The latter is probably a better option if there are exterior walls and potential vapor barriers or similar in play, and you don't need to do this on the ends, only on the edge-grain pieces.

If you can physically push the flooring down flat, a 15 gauge finish nailer can do a LOT to hold flooring down, especially if you can hit the floor joists. The nails are basically invisible, and you definitely won't see them after a week or so.

[old goat]

Before trying to renail the floor dry it out--either with a dehumidifier or waiting for dry season or both. If it won't flatten out when it dries it may not be salvageable. Create an expansion gap as suggested. Personally I would face nail the whole floor rather than trying to pull up and renail. Our 1930 house has face nailed oak floors in the downstairs and engineered oak blind nailed in the upstairs addition. You never notice the filled nail holes downstairs. It may mean refinishing the floor though.

[tuowtraws]

Thanks everybody. The buckles can't be pushed down flat, way too much tension. But definitely had thought about waiting for heating season and then ripping the expansion gap and face nailing. Seems like a reasonable solution and if it doesn't work would just mean replacing the floor next year instead of this year. Don't really see any downside other than a weekend of effort. Need to negotiate the wife approval factor on that idea though.

[fatnslow]

Has anyone suggested cutting at the very edges at the walls so the wood has room to expand ? Obviously this is under the assumption you have some sort of base trim that can hide the expansion gap at the edges. Sounds like whoever did the initial install was pretty clueless if the material is flush against the wall .
Think toe kick saw, they sell cheap ones at harbor freight. Basically pull the base, make relief cuts, clean up, reinstall base. You'll know if it worked during the next heat cycle for the price of a few hours of labor and a sub $100 saw. Use a shop vac strategically attached to the saw so it collects as much debris as possible.
I have seen buckling issues when people install click flooring with
zero room at the edges that have been solved with this type of mod.
Also take a close look at the subfloor is under the flooring. That might be playing into the issue as well. You couldn't pay me money to use lvt....

[Core Shot]

I don’t get the expansion at the edges of a hardwood floor that is buckling in the middle. It’s not a floating floor. Sure. Maybe the nails were too small gauge. But the floor buckling in the middle is because it’s moving so much that it’s pushing against the walls? I don’t buy it.
Hardwood doesn’t float.
If the buckling was at the walls? Yeah maybe.


It’s humidity. Op said the windows were open in the summer. Either rent a commercial dehu or wait for winter and top nail that biatch
Problem solved.

If you have a regular dehu run it nonstop for a week or two. Shit will flatten most likely.
As someone said above a finish nailer 15 gage barely leaves a hole. Might not even need to putty.
PS. I recall this is over a crawl space. Which is allegedly dry. But they never are unless they are conditioned. Between moisture above and below the center of the room is too moist. The boards swelled. The alleged weak nails are actually keeping it from floating, which hardwood is not expected to do since it’s tongue nailed as it’s installed.

[Foggy_Goggles]

Hey Core Shot, you are wrong.

Hardwood floors expand and contract and move exterior framed walls. Its is why in hot humid places quarter round is standard in addition to base because that 7/x isn't enough.

OP, post pictures. Mostly likely, the buckling is the manifestation of the problem not the problem itself. I'd say it is unlikely that the floor will dry out, return to its original condition and you'll be able to pin it in position. Maybe?

Generally, for cosmetic problems, I advocate for doing the bare minimum (money, time and effort) or tearing it out and making it exactly how you want it.

The problem with not following manufacturer recommended install is that you don't get to pick what happens and then guess the fix. If it is fucked up it is fucked up.

[Core Shot]

^^ yes. I understand that hardwood moves. I’ve seen it.

But op said someone else said the tongue nails were small. Whatevs.

But it’s not a floating floor.
Buckling in the middle is likely moisture in an unconditioned crawl space.
moisture in summer with windows open.
It sucks
But dry it out. And top nail it.

[Foggy_Goggles]

And what would have happened if the install was done with the specified fastener, underlayment and expansion gap?

You and I have no idea. That's the point. Is it a conditioned or unconditioned crawl? Where is the vapor barrier? Where is the insulation?

We have no fuckin' idea what is going on. As a 30 year contractor specializing in interior finish and having fixed so many dog shit install, the suggested approach is it take a big picture approach and try and figure out what the crap is going on. Or don't.

[tuowtraws]

Unconditioned crawl, fully encapsulated. Insulation is batts on the underside of the subfloor. Literally no water down there that I could find.

I'm able to remove the boards by hand with almost no effort, that's how insecure the nailing is. Might as well be a floating floor.

I'm also somewhat concerned about just assuming it's seasonal humidity, but so far nobody has a better explanation. There's lots of advice on the internet saying that buckling must be due to a water leak but there's A) no plumbing near the buckle B) no water in the crawl and C) no cupping or other signs of water damage.

Foggy any advice for how take the big picture approach and figure out what's going on other than what I've already done? I suppose just waiting for us to be running the furnace every day will prove it if it dries out and lays flat. If not then will need further investigation.

[Foggy_Goggles]

Check the building science on that crawl system. I'm not the expert but I usually see fully encapusalted systems have a source of heat and no insulation in the joists but I live in a unique climate zone.

Look, I can guess but that is exactly what I'm doing. I'd get a pinless moisture meter and start checking the crawl, the wood floor in various locations and the main level.

The flooring isn't gonna unbuckle itself I don't think. What happens when you leave a 2x4 outside? It bends. Does it ever go back? That's what the fasteners are for. There is a lot of building science and systems that is really low tech and poorly understood but it works. Plywood nailing schedules, tile assemblies, plumbing traps and so on.

This is home ownership. No good contractor is gonna give you a written warranty on anything without starting over and verifying site conditions. So if you are not down with that, you are gonna go for a repair that may or may not work. Thems the maths.

[mattig]

Also not an expert, but did do a bunch of amateur googling before rehabbing my crawlspace and I believe the consensus is that an encapsulated crawl space should also be dehumidified if not fully conditioned.


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[tuowtraws]

Yeah sorry, fully encapsulated was totally wrong of me to say. It is vented to the outside. Ground is lined with a thick vapor barrier.

[tuowtraws]

And pinless readings on the floor were nominal when I checked after it first buckled (just bought a cheap Klein meter from HD). I've been meaning to go back and check the subfloor from above and below, and also the drywall to make sure everything is consistent.

[WWCD]

Anybody ever done a DIY pool resurfacing?

Wife and I bought a new house this summer with a pool and it’s well past time. I’m reasonably competent, the shape is pretty simple, and isn’t that big.

[XXX-er]

how about a liner ?

[Core Shot]

^^^ assuming no liner.

Resurfacing and painting are two different things.
Painting is once every seven years or so. It’s not hard. Drain pool. Acid wash. Paint.
Need to know whether it’s rubberized paint or epoxy or urethane.
Urethane is way easier than two part epoxy. And it lasts just as long.

PS. About draining the pool. If your water table is high in theory the pool can bust loose and float. Some pools have drain plugs you are supposed to pull. Mine doesn’t. It’s above water table and twelve inches thick. It ain’t moving.

[Shredhead]

My parents pool we painted every couple of years. It was a hassle.
I had a gunite pool built with Pebble Tec. It looked good 20 years later, when we sold.

https://pebbletec.com

[WWCD]

It’s an old ass pool….our guess forty to fifty yrs old, so whatever we end up doing will be a short term fix because the wife is thinking of a full redo to modernize and make suitable for kids not born in the seventies.

Mostly looking for a five ish yr solution.

[Shredhead]

Just do a good prep and paint will be fine.

[m2711c]

PS. About draining the pool. If your water table is high in theory the pool can bust loose and float. Some pools have drain plugs you are supposed to pull. Mine doesn’t. It’s above water table and twelve inches thick. It ain’t moving.

twelve inches ain't shit... just ask yo momma. or the folks at dryden central school that had a hydrostatic relief valve fail resulting in the full size competition pool floating 8 feet up on the groundwater taking the building foundation with it. it was a sight to behold.


fact.

[Core Shot]

It’s an old ass pool….our guess forty to fifty yrs old, so whatever we end up doing will be a short term fix because the wife is thinking of a full redo to modernize and make suitable for kids not born in the seventies.

Mostly looking for a five ish yr solution.

My pool is 1975
No cracks. Thick. Not going anywhere.
I should do the coping. Chiseled and replaced the tiles at the waterline when I moved in eleven years ago.
Old pools are good pools.
Just make sure you winterize properly. Frozen pipes are my fear.
But painting every five to seven is the price of admission.

And if you can, drop the dough for an automatic cleaner.

[m2711c]

My parents pool we painted every couple of years. It was a hassle.
I had a gunite pool built with Pebble Tec. It looked good 20 years later, when we sold.

https://pebbletec.com

gunite can be great, but it really depends on your water chemistry. if your makeup water is calcium deficient, the water will suck it out of the gunite causing failure over time. that's not a problem if your make up water is calcium rich.

[Shredhead]

True. Anyone investing in a new pool or finish, should get a good Taylor pool chemistry test kit.

[old goat]

My kids sink drain is leaking. This was done by the previous owner]


Apparently there are a lot of gaskets. And the metal tube is able to slide into the narrow part of the white PVC.
I sent him to Ferguson with the picture and the parts. Hopefully they can hook him up with the right parts.
Apparently he does not own a snake, a pipe wrench, or anything that can cut pvc.
He was going to call a plumber. He was complaining about the cost of the electrician the management company called to change a light bulb in his rental. Wait until he finds out what a plumber will cost to fix all that.