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I got 205/65/16 Blizzaks last year for our Alltrack to replace an old set of arctic claws and they kick ass so far. I've driven a lot of AWD wagons in the snow and the Alltrack is one of the best if not the best. The only car that was more of a tank was an early 2000s manual Allroad but that thing broke down all the time
My 02 Outback manual was more of an unstoppable beast in the snow with the lsd in the rear end and 50/50 split plus the lift I added. Alltrack falls down when snow is deep also. But the Outback required much more attention at highway speeds.
Alltrack manual is more stable at speed and the pseudo drift mode when you hold the button down for 4 seconds (traction control disable/escape driving stability limited) is super cool...still let's you have fun but keeps you from accidentally throwing the 180 during agressive play.
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For sure, in deeper snow I want my truck but packed snow/ice/standard shitty roads we get here in the winter the Alltrack is fantastic whereas my truck is sliding all over the place at like 15 mphQuote:
Originally Posted by uglymoney
Attachment 438041
Bumping this to the top. I think my sunroof is leaking? Or water is getting in from somewhere after multiple days of rain.
See the picture for where condensation is evident after a rain storm. Depending on the car’s position - slope, I assume? - it was either the back right or back left collecting condensation.
Tips for handling it? I’m planning to bring it by a VW dealer to get their take. Thanks I’m advance.
Edit: I found this from earlier in the thread.
Going to check with the dealer or a local VW-specific mechanic about seeing what's going on. It seems related to VW Service Action Code: 60E5. If anyone has any particular suggestions, I'm all ears.Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinevibes
When is the last time you cleaned the sunroof drain pipe?
Mine have leaked again this summer - this time in the rear interior (old parking spot pointed down hill, new one is slightly uphill...). I'm still trying to get into the dealer for our 50k service and hopefully talk them into a quick drain clean/interior clean, since this has been an ongoing issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by fool
Either way, I probably need to do my own cleaning once or twice a year if we're going to keep the car:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXH3PHZ0F5Q
It's been a while. Been borrowing the car from another family member so doubt it's been done recently. Thanks for point it out - didn't realize it was a normal needed thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by utagonian
Thanks, AV. That was it. I followed this video - and used weed wacker wire - since the comments for the video you posted were concerned with damaging the seals with the brush, IIRC (but I don't know if that would happen).Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinevibes
Is cleaning the two front sunroof drain pipes the only thing that is needed? I scheduled time to get it checked at a local VW shop just to be safe but wouldn't mind saving the coin if that's all they'll do.
Been a while. We just hit 100k in our 17 S DSG. It was (mostly) problem free until I hit some monster pothole on the way up to the ski hill last month. Weird intermittent front end rattle under 40 mph. At shop now...
My driver seat started to crack last year. Still minor. Trim around the shifter turned to razor blade and is currently Gorilla Taped. New recall for this I haven't taken care of yet. Weird gremlin that tells you to shift into park immediately that is also an outstanding recall.
I ran 16" Nokian winters when we lived in the RFV. Moved around a bit and didn't have room for spare wheelset. Been running Yokohama Geolandar 215 60 17 M+S All Terrains on stock wheels year round and been really happy with snow performance when they are on the new side. 0.5" higher ride height. Felt "squishy" at 33 PSI, feel normal at 38. I've programmed the speedo to be accurate. Had to remove the front mudguards but the rears fit fine. Work great on our cindered roads.
Still on original suspension. I change oil and filter every 5k using an extractor. Following factory maintenance through indy shops. Had to replace low beam bulbs recently (thankful for tiny hands).
I pumped my squishy continental winters to 45psi. That made the transition from summer PS3s passable. Any downsides to running such high pressure?
Not an expert but I think you might wear out the center of the tread faster than the outside and it increases wear on your suspension components.
Higher pressure will increase the effective load capacity and decrease heat build up. Always run my boat tires at 65 or 70 psi.
Won't traction be reduced?
Certainly could be if it is distributing load unevenly, but if he thinks it is handling better in the dry it might be a reasonable compromise.
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Not an expert... I ran my Nokian and Dunlops 16" winters at 40 PSI for years. I also made sure to corner aggressively and do donuts when appropriate. My tire wear was fine.
Mechanic says it's a passenger side wheel bearing. Makes sense. Have to order the entire hub assembly though? Only doing one side since the price is a lil steep.
I’d suspect running higher pressure will have a similar effect as running a low-pro tire even if you don’t have contact patch issues (which you’d notice with uneven wear in the center). Benefit would be better fuel economy.
I’d recommend keeping tire pressure at recommended, because otherwise you will die. Also, seems a bit silly. They’re squishy because that’s better for snow/ice.
Wrong thread. I’m a jong.
But VW Atlas is an awesome sports suv. Very sporty.
63k, just after the haldex overhaul, edc and check engine popped up.
Shop ran diagnosis, no boost to the turbo. Thankfully turbo replacement was covered under warranty. Would've run me $4k...
Seats are also cracking in mine unfortunately, but otherwise the car is as fantastic as day 1.
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‘17 with 65k on it. Seats cracking and shifter trim splitting here too. Otherwise I love the car. Sometimes in sport mode it feels like the transmission/turbo lags a bit.
They'll replace the shifter trim for free under recall. I got ours replaced after a year or so of shredding our hands on that shitQuote:
Originally Posted by V.R.P
Wife has 17 Alltrack I have a 14 tdi sportwagen. Her car feels so much lighter and snappier to drive, mine is a bit heavier in the steering feel I imagine it’s the difference between an iron diesel block compared to the ai 1.8t in the newer car. All
My friends have Subarus they are in my opinion very cheaply assembled, there is so much wind noise and road noise in them It’s ridiculous. That being said if I switch cars I’m gonna take a crosstrek for a drive since they don’t make a the Alltrack anymore. I would trade my tdi wagon for Alltrack in a heartbeat, there’s no value in diesel since it’s overpriced now.
Anybody installed a hitch on their Alltrack? Would like one primarily for the option of a hitch bike rack with the slight possibility of towing. Found this one: https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2017_...tm?&Redirect=8
Previously I had a hitch installed on an '05 Subaru Outback XT and it worked fine. Curious if something similar could work well on an Alltrack.
I installed a hitch on a golf sportwagen but not our alltrack, there was already one installed.
The process to install on the GSW was a little annoying because I had to remove the back bumper. Totally worth it though.
Not on an alltrack, but on other MQB vehicles.
The ecohitch product is very nice and I would definitely go with the 2" even though it costs a lot more than the 1-1/4 curt. No reason to stick yourself with the small receiver.
Alltrack should require removing the bumper fascia, but not dropping the exhaust. Pretty simple installation with no drilling or metal cutting required but you will have to trim a piece of plastic trim (but it is not a visible piece unless you get below the car). Doable in a driveway with some jack stands in a couple hours no problem. Might not even need the jack stands but some of the screws are a lot easier to access when the suspension is unloaded (and obviously if you had access to a lift, it would save your back!)
Perfect for a bike rack and if you hook up a wiring kit, you can tow light loads. Pretty stealth installation with no loss of rear ground clearance like you get with the cheap Curt hitch on a Golf/GTI where the crossbar sits below the bumper.
92K on our 17 S DSG now. Only major issue has been the notorious water pump failure which is commong with the 2.0T. I was fortunate enough to get VW to cover half of of it.
Did you join the class action suit?Quote:
Originally Posted by Flexon Phil
There’s a thread on vwvortex w a ton of into on hitchesQuote:
Originally Posted by fool
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I bought that same hitch from eTrailer a few months after we bought our Alltrack new in 2017. I did not enjoy the install but it was doable; took me 4hrs or so all said and done, using a shop garage at work.Quote:
Originally Posted by fool
Looking back it would have been nice to have a second set of hands for dealing with the whole bumper and the sensors still connected. I definitely snapped a few of the plastic clips dealing with the bumper and my jig saw cut out of the lower bumper wasn't super clean, but it all worked and and it's been a great hitch. We run a RockyMounts rack on it 6mo of the year and yeah, 2" is the way for sure.
Yes, here; anyone else in? Has anyone seen a check?Quote:
Originally Posted by gregL
Funny... I suddenly remembered the suit last week and called the 1-800 number. The lady was curt and annoyed to talk to me and quickly told me that my claim had been denied. I asked her why and she said a letter was "actually being mailed out to me" but that I hadn't provided enough documentation. I got the letter and it seems all to coincidental that it happened to be mailed on the same day I called and nothing had been sent in months previous. Would have received anything if I hadn't called??? All that to say - if you entered the suit, call and check in. I
'm about to mail back all the service records as my appeal; hopefully it works out. Our repair cost $1100 plus a few hundred of diagnostics leading up to the actual repair.
With 90K on the car, i was past the requirements.Quote:
Originally Posted by gregL
afaik the class action was settled and includes a warranty extension to 8 years 80k miles and coverage for 1 replacement prior to 80k of the repair was paid out of pocket.
I wonder what Benny thinks?
Awesome - thanks all for the hitch info.
Is it still possible to join the class action or did a deadline pass?
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Already passed: https://waterpumpsettlement.com/Important-DatesQuote:
Originally Posted by fool
2017 Sportswagen purchased new. Replaced the water pump at 68K in 2021. All service up to 62K was at dealer, had the pump replaced at reputable VW shop for $900 less than quoted by dealer. Joined the class action with claim form and supporting data sent in June 2022, including all 51 pages of service records from the dealer plus the water pump repair receipts. Claim denied as not complying with "adherence to the vehicle's maintenance schedule, as set forth in the Warranty & Maintenance Booklet, that are relevant to the coolant system (including use of the proper coolant fluid recommended by Volkswagen or Audi,...).
This is deceptive. According to the warranty booklet and the dealer, the vehicle maintenance schedule for my mileage was only to check [check at 40K, 80K and 120K] the fluid levels for my mileage. No requirement to replace or flush. And, according to the dealer records I did not need to add or replace - although I suspect they may have topped off as a courtesy. I have sent in the Vehicle Coolant System Maintenance Declaration of no records available to the claims administrator - Rust Consulting in MN - along with the name and contact information of the dealer service manager, date I spoke to her, and my efforts to get additional records [which according to the dealer there are none as they did everything supposed to do according to the warranty booklet]. This declaration needs to be sent by May 7, 2023, or the claim will be denied.
Same bullshit happened to me. I sent in the declaration too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Energy
Fingers crossed, but not too hopeful. Why did they even bother with this lawsuit?
Fucking lawyers.
Best I can determine from the Settlement Agreement whether we have supplied enough documentation is made by Rust Consulting [https://waterpumpsettlement.com/Port...QaNmvfQ%3d%3d].
This is at p. 15-16 of the pdf of the settlement agreement.
If after supplying the declaration, we then have 15 days after a denial to request an "attorney review."
I think we need to locate a service record within 10% of the mileage of 40K [36k to 44K], 80K [72K to 88K] etc., that the coolant was checked and if necessary filled. I provided that.
Finally, it appears that Judge Madeline Arleo of the N.J. Fed. Dist. Ct., 50 Walnut Street, Ctrm MLK 4a, Newark, NJ 07101 has retained jurisdiction to make sure the settlement is implemented. She may be receiving more than a few complaints since it does not appear we can actually file a complaint with the Court since the case has been closed.
Good to know I’m not the only one getting yanked around on details. I just mailed the appeal in: I printed off a few dozen pages with all my service records and proof of payment and typed up a thorough cover letter to outline our situation.
It seems about as cut and dry as possible of a claim to approve, to me, but yeah: fucking lawyers!
Anyone hear anything on their claim recently?
I emailed them for an update on the 27th, they got back to me on the 5th asking for VIN and info. I sent that to them, but still waiting on an actual update...Quote:
Originally Posted by radam
Nothing. I did call the claims administrator. Confirmed they had timely received my Vehicle Coolant System Maintenance Declaration before May 7, 2023. The call center individual stated that their receipt of the declaration was sufficient for me to receive a check.
In the meantime at 100K, I have developed a grinding noise in the right rear. Initially thought it was my snow tires. Put on the summer tires, and the noise was still there so thought wheel bearing. Tuner shop said no. Rather, they diagnose as a rear-differential failure. Very expensive repair. VW Vortex reveals it to be a common issue. So disappointing.
Very interesting; I called them yesterday and he wouldn’t really confirm anything, except that our claim had been deemed insufficient months ago. No confirmation that they’ve received my follow up mailing and appeal ( sent well before May 7) and he said I’d only get updates on their decision in writing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Energy
No timeline for that decision, but he said probably 4-6 more weeks off of no real reason. I just told him I’d continue to call. So annoying. I was dumb to not just do the affidavit and try to show them all my documents…
Hey all,
I'm considering a used Alltrack as my '13 Outback probably needs another short block... this thread has been a nice (if not stout) Sunday read...
Sounds like water pump and shifter trim are a thing to ask about when buying used. Wondering if the collective has any other advice on things to be mindful of while shopping a used Alltrack? Any other big or common issues you're seeing as the odometer goes up?
I'd be looking at a 2017 - 2019 manual, prob 50 - 90k miles to be closer to my price range.