Ask the experts

[stuckathuntermtn]

Just flex the rotor over. Grab it on either side of the caliper and pull. It's not moving enough to actually bend the rotor, but it'll push the pistons back a bit. You won't be able to fully reset the pistons, but it'll give enough space for them to sort themselves out.

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Can one do that without hooking up a bleed cup?

[toast2266]

Can one do that without hooking up a bleed cup?

Yeah. This is a no tools required, on the side of the trail kind of thing that will *maybe* reset your pistons enough to get rid of some annoying rub. Just make sure your rotor isn't hot before you go grabbing it. And make sure to wipe your hands on your shorts before you do it so you don't get your rotors all oily.

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[XXX-er]

I never bleed with pads in the brake, I use the block that comes with the bleed kit. First of all you might get fluid on the pads and second you have messed with the amount of fluid in the system so you have to rebleed when you are just changing pads

[Huskier]

There should be lots of guides online, the idea is the same regardless of brand. But fundamentally what you're going to want to do is fully push back the 2 good pistons and hold them black with a half bleed block. Then the 2 sticky pistons you'll need to either partially block (to ensure you don't accidentally pop them out too far), or very carefully advance them to the same distance they are at with pads + rotor. Then spray the exposed piston sides with isopropyl alcohol and gently scrub/floss around them with a torn piece of shop towel/string/old toothbrush. When you're not getting any more black gunk, drip a tiny bit of brake fluid around the edge of exposed piston, then push the pistons back. Wipe off excess brake fluid. Pull the lever to advance the problem pistons again, taking care not to go too far. Clean them again, lube them again, reseat them again, and repeat until they move smoothly and evenly. End by reseating them, removing the bleed block from the other 2, reseating those, and then cleaning the whole caliper carefully. Then replace pads and wheel, recenter caliper over rotor, and advance pistons to see if they move evenly. If not, try again. If it still fails, you likely need to have the piston seals replaced, which is probably a shop job unless you've got a lot of free time and the right tools.

That seems in my wheelhouse, I'll give it a try. Thanks!

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[stuckathuntermtn]

Yeah. This is a no tools required, on the side of the trail kind of thing that will *maybe* reset your pistons enough to get rid of some annoying rub. Just make sure your rotor isn't hot before you go grabbing it. And make sure to wipe your hands on your shorts before you do it so you don't get your rotors all oily.

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You'd think after touching a hot rotor once (by accident and for a different reason), I'd have learned my lesson. But I'm an idiot who did it again years later. Still kinda have a scar from that.

[stuckathuntermtn]

I never bleed with pads in the brake, I use the block that comes with the bleed kit. First of all you might get fluid on the pads and second you have messed with the amount of fluid in the system so you have to rebleed when you are just changing pads

I'm a klutz and I've never gotten oil anywhere near the pads or rotors. Especially the rear, lol.

[XtrPickels]

<p>

Can one do that without hooking up a bleed cup?

</p>
<p>
I&#39;ve never been in a car accident but I still wear my seatbelt...</p>

[XXX-er]

Google unwanted pregnacies shit happens


the bleed how-to&#39;s will usually tell you to take the pads out which is quick n easy cuz if you do get fluid on the pads they are very likely FUBARED


also if you do slop any DOT on the brake or the frame spray it down quick with alcohol & wipe cuz it eats pain


I use the block cuz Back in the day I bled brakes with half worn pads which put too much fluid in the system so I had to bleed them again/ let fluid out when I wanted to put in new pads

[toast2266]

Just depends on the brake. Some brakes (i.e. sram) are easy to bleed cleanly. Others not so much.

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[Tailwind]

Buying new XC Race Tires. In fairly good shape and trying to be fast for a 100KM and 100 miles in the next month or two. Goal is 12-13MPH average speed. I have used Specialized for years because I bought a bunch cheap. Planning on branching out and I am curious about the Continental Dubnital.
They have two compounds (Rapid / Grip) and two casings (Race / Trail). They are sold out everywhere in the Race/Rapid pairing. Does anyone have a very loose sense of how much more rolling resistance the Grip casing has? I am wondering about doing Race casing with the Grip compound for front and rear. Other option would be to mix and match. Race Grip front. Rapid Trail rear.
Any other tires I should look at? Bicycle Rolling Restitance has convinced me to not try the Maxxis XC tires. Hoping sub 1400 grams for a pair.

[XtrPickels]

After years of lovingly running RaceKings, I'll get my first ride on the Schwalbe Rick tonight.

Hard saying how the Dubnitals are, but Conti has been going in the wrong direction with their new tires, so I do not have faith that they're better than the Race King.

For our riding, pure rolling resistance > grip in 99% of situations.

[Tailwind]

Got it. I had always skipped the Race King based on a bias against the 2.2 width - which may not have been valid.
Report back once you get some time on the Ricks if you are willing. Are you planning on running that front and rear or pairing with a Ray?
I found some of the Rapid Compound Race Casing in stock and just decided to jump on them. I will post feedback once I have it. Most of my time is a specialized Renegade and Fast Trak Combo. I have been running a combo of a Rekon and Forekaster while training to try to stay upright as I ride at Lunch Loops a few days per week.

After years of lovingly running RaceKings, I&#39;ll get my first ride on the Schwalbe Rick tonight. Hard saying how the Dubnitals are, but Conti has been going in the wrong direction with their new tires, so I do not have faith that they&#39;re better than the Race King. For our riding, pure rolling resistance > grip in 99% of situations.

[jackstraw]

I just fought like hell to get my XT 4 pistons reset so my new pads would fit. I opened them up to clean and then used my largest flat head and tweaked the hell out of them back into og position. Bled the line too which was needed. Definitely more of a pia than anticipated.

[John_B]

Alright. I just got a new Shimano XT brake lever and upon install with a reused barb and olive I'm unable to push oil through the system after loosening the fitting on the caliper. If I take the bleed syringe off the caliper all the oil in the caliper comes out. My assumption is the issue is at the lever to hose interface. My understanding is that reusing barb and olives are a no go, but shouldn't my issue there be that my attachment leaks not that no oil can move through the system?

Halp!?!

[jamal]

<p>
Dubnital has been testing as well as the Race king with the independent testers. I want to try some and was also thinking about the grip/race front and trail/rapid rear combo.</p>
<p>
I have the Ricks right now and they feel good. Fast, pretty good cornering grip. They give you that &quot;actually grabbing and turning feel&quot; when you lean them over. Doing a 6hr mtb race on them tomorrow and my other options were thunder burts and mezcals. Downside, doesn&#39;t actually measure 2.4&quot; as advertised. Weight is 760 or maybe a bit more so not going to be sub 1400g/set.</p>
<p>
The other tire I might try soon is the vittoria peyote. Those are actually 2.4, test fast, and I&#39;ve always liked mezcals. Racing ray/ralph also works good. Just kind of have to pick that balance of speed vs grip. Thunder burts are the fastest but worst to actually ride trails on. I imagine peyotes are a touch better. Mezcal and ray/ralph give the most grip. Ricks kind of right in between.</p>

[Tailwind]

Makes sense. I appreciate the detail. The 760 gram weight on the Rick does not bother me so that may be my next stop depending on how the Dubnital feels. Silly how expensive trying tires is but it is one of the most important pieces for efficient endurance riding.

Dubnital has been testing as well as the Race king with the independent testers. I want to try some and was also thinking about the grip/race front and trail/rapid rear combo.
I have the Ricks right now and they feel good. Fast, pretty good cornering grip. They give you that &quot;actually grabbing and turning feel&quot; when you lean them over. Doing a 6hr mtb race on them tomorrow and my other options were thunder burts and mezcals. Downside, doesn&#39;t actually measure 2.4&quot; as advertised. Weight is 760 or maybe a bit more so not going to be sub 1400g/set.
The other tire I might try soon is the vittoria peyote. Those are actually 2.4, test fast, and I&#39;ve always liked mezcals. Racing ray/ralph also works good. Just kind of have to pick that balance of speed vs grip. Thunder burts are the fastest but worst to actually ride trails on. I imagine peyotes are a touch better. Mezcal and ray/ralph give the most grip. Ricks kind of right in between.

[jackstraw]

Alright. I just got a new Shimano XT brake lever and upon install with a reused barb and olive I'm unable to push oil through the system after loosening the fitting on the caliper. If I take the bleed syringe off the caliper all the oil in the caliper comes out. My assumption is the issue is at the lever to hose interface. My understanding is that reusing barb and olives are a no go, but shouldn't my issue there be that my attachment leaks not that no oil can move through the system?

Halp!?!

Seems odd, but I guess the barb is blocking. Not much else in the way... assuming you have the bleed hole on the lever open with cup in place [emoji16].

[Dee Hubbs]

Alright. I just got a new Shimano XT brake lever and upon install with a reused barb and olive I'm unable to push oil through the system after loosening the fitting on the caliper. If I take the bleed syringe off the caliper all the oil in the caliper comes out. My assumption is the issue is at the lever to hose interface. My understanding is that reusing barb and olives are a no go, but shouldn't my issue there be that my attachment leaks not that no oil can move through the system? Halp!?!

Sounds like the old double olive. A replacment lever unit almost always comes with the olive already inside the lever body. Sounds like you put a pre-compressed olive/barb on a hose on top of another olive inside the lever body.Your on-hose olive is sealed enough to stop fluid leaking out, but you second olive is soft enough that is smushed in a way prevening fluid to pass by it and into the hose. Remove your hose, dig out your second olive and start over.

[XtrPickels]

2 Days on the Schwalbe Rick and it's what I expect in an XC tire. Rolling seems good. Always hard to be objective, so I'll assume they're fast based on BRR.
Grip is better than Race King, Renegade, Thunder Burt (Obvi), but not so much better that they're notably slower. Leaning them over and they do surprisingly well. Rear locks up fairly easy on loose over hard, but in a controlled manner. Haven't climbed anything steep, but figure they'll be as good if not better than their peers.


They measure ~2.3" on 25mm internal i9 wheels.
Seems like a good all around fast-xc tire front and rear for dry and / or grippy conditions. If I wanted more speed on non-tech I'd pair it with a Burt in the rear.

[jamal]

<p>
The width bugs me a bit. Mine on a 29mm rim are only like 2.25, 2.3 if i measure across the tread blocks. Schwalbe says they measure at the widest part of the tread on a 30mm rim and I&#39;m still not getting there. And the current testing on rougher ground is making it more and more clear that bigger tires are faster. Might try peyotes next as vittoria 2.4s actually measure 2.4. Still like how they ride though. Went back to thunder burts on my hardtail last week after swapping the ricks onto the hei hei, and it&#39;s actually a really big difference in cornering grip between the two. The ricks, like, turn when you lean them, burts not quite so much, and basically no difference in speed. I think thunder burts are probably only worth it as a gravel tire now (and I do have a mtb hill climb coming up they&#39;ll be great for).</p>

[John_B]

Sounds like the old double olive. A replacment lever unit almost always comes with the olive already inside the lever body. Sounds like you put a pre-compressed olive/barb on a hose on top of another olive inside the lever body.Your on-hose olive is sealed enough to stop fluid leaking out, but you second olive is soft enough that is smushed in a way prevening fluid to pass by it and into the hose. Remove your hose, dig out your second olive and start over.

I wish it was that good of an explanation. The real issue was I was working on replacing my rear lever but for some dumbass reason started trying to bleed my front caliper. Turns out it's hard to push fluid through a closed system.

I think I need to drink more beer when I work on my bike because this sober wrenching is causing me problems.

[jdadour]

Ive switched from a 2.2 Race King to a Rick XC on my monster gravel bike with 80mm fork. The Rick is a touch heavier and a touch slower per BRR than the Race King, but a much more capable tire. Im happy with them and would take that trade off any day. The grip on the Rick side knobs is much better than the Race King

[jackstraw]

I wish it was that good of an explanation. The real issue was I was working on replacing my rear lever but for some dumbass reason started trying to bleed my front caliper. Turns out it's hard to push fluid through a closed system.

I think I need to drink more beer when I work on my bike because this sober wrenching is causing me problems.

Ha! Right there with you.

I ended up cracking the piston trying to push it back in...and my fn brake pads were wrong? Wtf...the number was the same. Idk. I took it to the pros. They also told me GX chains suck. GX in general is decent, but don't buy the chain.

I had bike shop job lined up years ago but couldn't find a place to live, so moved on. I regret not having ever worked in one.

[toast2266]

I wish it was that good of an explanation. The real issue was I was working on replacing my rear lever but for some dumbass reason started trying to bleed my front caliper. Turns out it's hard to push fluid through a closed system. I think I need to drink more beer when I work on my bike because this sober wrenching is causing me problems.

This is hilarious. Well done. We've all been there.

[XXX-er]

&quot;&quot; Burned in rotors and pads as per manufacturer recommendations. I&rsquo;m on my 3rd set of different pads I&rsquo;ve tried to quiet them. &quot;&quot;


Probably wont help buddy but I got new set of SRAM DB8&#39;s on my Vala similar to Guides in power and feel so the front is noisy on and off even after sanding the pads while the rear is quiet



SO I tried swapping the pads fronts for rears which is easy/ free AND now they are both quiet so thats something for folks out there in TV land to try