the answer to "WTF is wrong with my boots?"

[mr_pretzel]

I'm rec race boot curious because all other stock LV boots still have too much volume. I have a super low instep. What would you all suggest? I've been cracking shells left and right the last couple of seasons and am currently in a S/Pro Alpha 130 with ZipFits. They're serviceable after adding a heal wedge + bontec shim. I'm a decent bootfitter, but my shop doesn't stock race boots anymore and I don't want to order a boot without a solid chance of being able to make it work, ideally by adding volume instead of trying to take up space.

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Sounds like a no brainer, I’d go nordica/tecnica shells for super low instep

[Gnar_Shralp406]

Sounds like a no brainer, I’d go nordica/tecnica shells for super low instep

In your experience, what's lower between a firebird R140 and dobermann 5S?

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[mr_pretzel]

In your experience, what's lower between a firebird R140 and dobermann 5S?

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I haven’t tried them since they updated the molds, but they should be the same.

[Gnar_Shralp406]

I haven’t tried them since they updated the molds, but they should be the same.

Awesome. Thanks for the advice. Nordica pro deal is pretty sweet. I think I'll chance it.

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[herrgard]

I ski the shift alpha boa with zips and the instep is prefect with just closing the boa up, not sure how much it differs from regular spro alpha though. The Dobermann 5 (can't remember if it was S or M) crushed my instep, could not get it off my foot fast enough. Toebox is also way lower volume/width than the alpha.

[PinyonJuniper5]

Does anybody have experience with grinding down the heel cup in a boot? The Ridge Pro is almost a perfect one finger fit for me, but the heel cup curves inwards aggressively and bites into my Achilles tendon, which is unbearably painful when the boots are locked in yo downhill mode. Also, I already have a baby bone spur developing in this area on my right foot from a previous pair of ill-fitting boots. In this same area, on the outside of the boot, is a pivot point for a weird walk flap thing, which I’d guess makes a shell punch in this area an no-go. My liner is already super thin in this spot (maybe part of the issue, as there’s almost no padding between my foot and the shell).



I’m thinking about using a dremel to a few millimeters of the plastic that protrudes into my Achilles. As far as I can tell, it shouldn’t affect the boot’s structural integrity. See pic above.

Mags, am I crazy or should I go for it??


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[mntlion]

1) can you add some 2mm foam padding to either side of the pressure point? You are getting ALL the pressure on that spot, but NONE of the pressure beside it, so adding a bit f foam might casue the pressure to balance better?

2) any change with a heel lift? (or if tha tis worse, maybe lower the boot board?)

3) yes you can grind of punch that spot, just go VERY slow grinding to make sure its the correct answer/location

[PinyonJuniper5]

1) can you add some 2mm foam padding to either side of the pressure point? You are getting ALL the pressure on that spot, but NONE of the pressure beside it, so adding a bit f foam might casue the pressure to balance better?

2) any change with a heel lift? (or if tha tis worse, maybe lower the boot board?)

3) yes you can grind of punch that spot, just go VERY slow grinding to make sure its the correct answer/location

I’ve tried the foam padding, but didn’t like the way it felt. I haven’t thought of lowering the boot board, that makes a lot of sense. One thing I noticed that made a big difference is which insoles I use. I have a custom pair and a pair of green superfeet. The superfeet are much thicker and raise my heel up just enough that it’s even more of a conflict with the plastic, but the thinner ones worked well. Will try lowering the boot board, and will report back with results!


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[radam]

x-post from the Atomic thread

Alright, got a question. I have a pair of Redster Pro 120s, 2014/15 era. These ones https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=...AAAAAdAAAAABAE I've been running them with Intuition wrap liners (made for Dalbellos, so softer than a power wrap, but I think stiffer than an alpine model). These work well for my skinny ankle and heel, but wider forefoot, or at least my preference for more open toeboxes due to Raynaud's. I am in a 27.5, fit that way by a good bootfitter, so I think I'm in the right size, or at least the right shape boot for me. I have Masterfit Instaprint Snow, foot is well supported, fit seems good, although I do get some instep pinching especially if I don't get the wrap to lie super neatly. ANYWAYS.. The boots had been feeling great this year until yesterday when I was out in single digits temps. I've only done mild days in them so far and forgot how much I hate them when it's cold. I felt like I just could flex them or get forward, was constantly in the backseat, didn't quite ruin the day but made it tough to do what I wanted. So my question is... Is it worth having a fitter soften the boot a bit, but maybe ending up with something I dislike in normal/warmer temps? Or what boot should I look to for a replacement? FWIW They feel plenty stiff enough until getting to 60deg+ spring skiing, and that's not a typical use case for me, I usually switch to bikes when we get to that weather.


Edit to add: I also spent some time last season in a pair of older Hawx Ultra 130S boots. They were used when I got them, I believe they made have had a full mold at some point, and I also did a a gentle heat mold to get a little more toebox volume. I only had half a day on them before doing this, and then ran them both with stock liners as well as with a pair of Intuition Pro Tongues, and found them to perform fairly well but 1) I really missed the dampness of the Redsters and 2) They would feel very stiff and responsive but then just blow through all their flex at times if I hit a pile of snow at speed, smashed into a mogul, etc. I know others have reported this and I had hoped that as a lighter skier I wouldn't run into it, so whether its just too different from the Redster or the heat molding f'd them up, I don't know.

[mntlion]

sounds like your boot is too stiff in the cold?

Maybe lower (cut/remove) 5mm from the front of the lower clog and see how that feels in the warm days?

but yes. boots are stiffer in the cold (as are we) and softer in the warm (as we we) So its finding a balance of the 2 that is right for you

[Yukonrider]

TLDR what glue should I use on my boots

Long story short: The metal bit in the heel that the tech bindings connect into came out. Its held in with basically a wood screw that broke. I am currently drilling out the screw that broke off in the boot and it is going...medium at best.

What glue should I use to fill the hole thats left so I can redrill and reinstall? I was thinking JB weld, but maybe a plastic weld epoxy? Any pros out there gluing boots?

[stuntmanbo]

I've been using K2 Diverge boots for one year.It's the worst boot I've ever had in terms of snow sticking under the soles.It's like immediately when I step on some snow I get straight ice forming under the soles which is very hard to remove even smashing the binding or even smashing some concrete/metal at the lift station.I'm thinking of just buying new soles, mine are all black gripwalk and the gripwalk that K2 is selling separately are black/white, who know maybe the plastic will be slightly different.I would get the michelin soles but unfortunately I'm using WTR STH so it's not possible.I tried putting a lot of silicone spray, it work but not that great, and then doing some exposed stuff on the same day with the boot moving in the binding more than usually was a scary experience.I've read some are rubbing wax on their soles but I guess it will be the same outcome ? I've also read about car window antifreeze ?Any advice or similar experience ?

[mntlion]

try new soles. I sell a few of that boot (and a lot of K2) and dont see that problem often. But we are in cold alberta.

Also duct tape on the soles. Might effect the release, but so does a bunch of snow/ice on the soles too? (use to use that for guests heli skiing, where boots icing up is a real issue)

[skiburgher]

I have a rather nasty hammertoe that rubs against my boot. Am I better off punching up the toe box or grinding my boot board. For what it’s worth, my insole is already ground fairly thin.

[mntlion]

<p>

Sounds like a no brainer, I&rsquo;d go nordica/tecnica shells for super low instep

</p>
<p>
&nbsp;</p>
<p>
depends what way the toe wants to go normaly?<br />
<br />
But overall, the footbed doesn&#39;t bend much, so lowering the bootboard will be a more general pressure releif (and easy to do on a belt grinder)&nbsp;&nbsp; grinding the upper part of the toe box is more pin point, but needs a foredom type tool.<br />
<br />
maybe a bit of &quot;and, not or&quot;</p>

[XXX-er]

TLDR what glue should I use on my boots Long story short: The metal bit in the heel that the tech bindings connect into came out. Its held in with basically a wood screw that broke. I am currently drilling out the screw that broke off in the boot and it is going...medium at best. What glue should I use to fill the hole thats left so I can redrill and reinstall? I was thinking JB weld, but maybe a plastic weld epoxy? Any pros out there gluing boots?



I would see if its possible to drill straight thru into the heel of the boot to let you use a nut & bolt ?

[skiburgher]

<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
depends what way the toe wants to go normaly?<br />
<br />
But overall, the footbed doesn't bend much, so lowering the bootboard will be a more general pressure releif (and easy to do on a belt grinder) grinding the upper part of the toe box is more pin point, but needs a foredom type tool.<br />
<br />
maybe a bit of "and, not or"</p>

Thanks

[XXX-er]

The superfeet are much thicker and raise my heel up just enough that it&rsquo;s even more of a conflict with the plastic, but the thinner ones worked well. Will try lowering the boot board, and will report back with results! I duno about super feet but with the Sole product are made of a grey foam which was easy to grind down with a sanding disc in a drill, if i can find my supe rfeet i will take a look


edit so I found them my green super feet have a plastic piece on the bottom, so you could try leaving that off you could also try sanding that area down but they strike me as all that thick really


Im a sole guy not a superfeet fan

[skiburgher]

<p>
</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>
depends what way the toe wants to go normaly?<br />
<br />
But overall, the footbed doesn't bend much, so lowering the bootboard will be a more general pressure releif (and easy to do on a belt grinder) grinding the upper part of the toe box is more pin point, but needs a foredom type tool.<br />
<br />
maybe a bit of "and, not or"</p>

Would you grind the whole board or just the front (which might change the heel-toe angle)?

[mntlion]

<p>
bootboard toe area,&nbsp; by a few mm</p>
<p>
&nbsp;</p>
<p>
&nbsp;</p>
<p>
yes.&nbsp;&nbsp; this will effect the boots internal ramp,&nbsp;&nbsp; but also make hammer toe better.</p>
<p>
&nbsp;</p>
<p>
give and take</p>
<p>
&nbsp;</p>
<p>
yin and yang</p>

[skiburgher]

Thanks again for the quick response!

[phil_dirt]

I have atomic hawx ultras with gara LVs that I stuffed a bunch of cork into. My bootfitter tells me that I should have bought the HVs, but alas. At any rate, I've been getting a weird pain sort of like shin bang in my left leg, except it's on the outside of the lower portion of my calf. I believe the muscle in question is the peroneus brevis. It feels like when I'm carving over bumpy snow the cuff is slamming into the side of my leg. When I first felt it I know I didn't have my upper cuff tight enough, but i've since tightened it as much as I can. I've tried adding cork to the tongue and it did nothing. Any ideas? I added a bunch of cork to the left tongue to take up space, and so maybe now it's kinda creating too much space between the tongue and the cuff. Take out the extra cork I added?

[mntlion]

whats the shell fit like in mm?
supportive, custom footbed?

Ya, play with cork volume and see if its a change?

Maybe foot moving around causing muscle strain? (again footbed)

Play with upper cuff alignment on the shell

[phil_dirt]

Just got new footbeds, and they're quite supportive. They have a bunch of canting to handle my ankle problems (instability). Shell fit is roughly 10-13mm depending on where you check. I don't think it's my foot moving too much. Cuff alignment and cork volume changes are the thing I'm gonna play with next. I had a lot of cork in the tongue to try to fill up space at the top of my instep/ankle area, but most of it ended up in the tongue itself.

This might just be my ankle instability acting up, it's worse on my left side, and I'm gonna have ankle surgery in april.

[turnfarmer]

Phil dirt- did the pain start with the new footbeds? If so it is likely they have too much support under the first met or the front end of the medial arch. Too much build up here(forefoot varus posting) will put a strain on the peroneal muscles.