Soft Snow Gymkhana - The Heritage Lab FR110

[Mustonen]

I’d take MO’s advice on length, but I also wouldn’t be afraid of the r one ten in a longer length either. I don’t think you have a bad option in front of you.

[Marshal Olson]

trying to quote marshal but keeps giving errors, i'm not on 108s i just mentioned since they ski different 182/192. upsizing might be the way to go then


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ah, gotcha. Miss-read sorry. Maybe worth emailing me to unpack your specs, skiing locations, and prior skis and such…

but more generally and to unpack/flush in a little more, I subscribe the the idea that folks buy longer skis not “just” for length but for increased overall chassis stability and similarly buy smaller skis for more maneuverability.

Ie if you are making jeans, you don’t just increase the waist size from 32-34-36, but you slightly relax the seat and thigh too.

that said, I would say the r110 is rides “a little bigger”, not just “longer” than the next size down.

[gaijin]

Another day on the 187 Rdimes on chalky, wind-blown groomers and side stashes.

Bumpy, near-firm groomers is where this ski hit the wall for me while trying to arc trenches.

So, don’t try to arc chalky bumps. Got it. Surf them.

The firmer and less smooth the surface, the more this ski prefers to surf.

That said— she’ll still arc smooth, firm surfaces just fine. That’s kinda the brink where you’re looking for a firm snow ski anyway.

Which basically concludes that my firm groomer-zoomer is gonna be the AM100. I don’t think I have to go all the way down to an RC85 for JP high pressures. This build is damp and stable enough that they pull narrower than their waist implies.

*edit— okay. That’s not true. I still can’t decide if an AM100 or RC85 is my next ski. Anything from today to firmer would be a blast on an RC85. It’s just a different sport.

Goddamnit, MO. Your build is damper and more stable than I’m used to. It’s fucking up my bat-sense.

Side-rant:
Why TF did my M102 make so much noise and was so unpredictable with all of its tech— 3D radius, carbon tip, titanium h-beam or whatever the f they called it?

I don’t know the details of MO’s build, I just know a few ingredients, but that build performs far tighter than nordica or Volkl are pulling off.

Mad props. I didn’t think this ski would eliminate so many narrower contenders for other quiver spots. Which is my problem— how many narrower contenders does the AM100 kill?

Sorry. Just got done skiing.

[SkiJitsu]

Any comparisons between the V-Werks Katana and the R110? The 184 VWK with Tectons is my 50/50 ski and I’m looking for something in a similar width for full-time resort use. I think the R110 fits the bill with its heavier weight and will probably do better on chop and imperfect groomers than the VWK.

I’ve been lusting after a heavier resort build of VWK for a while now. I haven’t been on the R110 but I’m really interested in it.

The closest HL ski I’ve tried to VWK has been (in order of closest to least close):
(1)FL116(se) - Closest feel, but more pow oriented (skis slightly softer and wider). RC version would probably be even closer to VWK.
(2)R105 - doesn’t float as well as VWK but does almost everything else I. The resort better. Great edge hold, charges like crazy and is super intuitive.
(3)FR110 - much more forward mount and way more rocker. VWK floats better in cold pow and is more directional. FR is better in crusts, hot pow or funky snow. FR rocker feels less secure on icy sections but is way easier to pivot, drift or manage in tight spaces.
(4)BC105 - this is a dedicated bc ski with pin bindings. Doesn’t float as well but is more maneuverable and punches way above its weight. It is also way easier on the up. I haven’t taken the VWK bc since getting this.

Now I’m wondering if I can rationalize adding the R110. ?

Would love to hear from people who have been on R110 and VWK.

[gaijin]

Would love to hear from people who have been on R110 and VWK.

Sounds like you guys need to chime in. This is a recurring request.

[ticketchecker]

Obvi built around old vs. new mount point design but any comparison to be drawn between dragon katanas and the rdime?


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[toast2266]

Would love to hear from people who have been on R110 and VWK.

It's been years since I've been on the VWK, so take this with a grain of salt. But the R110 and VWK still feel like very different skis to me. R110 has quite a bit more rocker (less than the FR, but still more than the VWK). R110 feels like a more well rounded, more broadly useful version of the FR110.

I recall the VWK being a ski that was happiest at high speeds and arcing large radius turns in open spaces. The R110 doesn't have a speed limit per se, but the shape generally feels happier at more moderate speeds and in tighter places.

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[MagnificentUnicorn]

My experience with the R one ten, there is no speed limit. I was night skiing a couple days ago and it was basically dark on the margins and adjacent unlit runs. Great soft chop but basically skiing blind. I was just trucking through it trusting that it would be okay. Even as stupid speeds. They are great noodling around in trees but they really come alive at speed in chop and more challenging snow.


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[Marshal Olson]

Quick data point on the VWK… the 184 mounted at +2 (ie -12.5cm from center) has about the same amount of shovel length (104cm) as the 193 R110. The 187 R110 has 3.5cm less shovel than this, give or take.

[skt07]

I, perhaps erroneously, started us down the VWK rabbit hole, but the discussion has been useful to me. What I’m hearing is that while the R110 is not directly comparable to my VWK, it’s probably a step in the right direction for me as my skiing style and preferences start to evolve away from the VWK.

VWK is very directional and a great charger, especially for its weight. I’ve had the most fun with it going too fast making big turns on open terrain in smooth to moderately chopped up pow.

It has not felt the most nimble and doesn’t love short radius turns, and I wouldn’t call it super pivoty. It’s also not that great for soft moguls etc. These are things I’m looking for now, in addition to the ability to still open things up now and then when I’m feeling frisky.

The VWK probably still has a place when the conditions warrant, but likely relegated to days touring sidecountry looking for those big open spaces.

[gaijin]

You have two choices.
M110


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[Self Jupiter]

It's been years since I've been on the VWK, so take this with a grain of salt. But the R110 and VWK still feel like very different skis to me. R110 has quite a bit more rocker (less than the FR, but still more than the VWK). R110 feels like a more well rounded, more broadly useful version of the FR110.

I recall the VWK being a ski that was happiest at high speeds and arcing large radius turns in open spaces. The R110 doesn't have a speed limit per se, but the shape generally feels happier at more moderate speeds and in tighter places.

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Would be curious to hear your thoughts on the R110 vs the MVP. I’m sure they have a different ride but the MVP is the funnest cambered ski in that width I have tried for that loose but composed feel I love.

[toast2266]

Would be curious to hear your thoughts on the R110 vs the MVP. I’m sure they have a different ride but the MVP is the funnest cambered ski in that width I have tried for that loose but composed feel I love.

Honestly, I'm still figuring out the R110 a bit. Compared to the MVP, the R110 feels heavier, damper, and more inclined to crush through stuff. But the lack of camber also means it can feel a bit more jarring and not quite as smooth on firmer snow.

I'm still fussing with the tune on the R110 - currently mine feel much more locked in than the MVP's, but I don't *think* that's inherent to the design, I think it's just a result of the R's having fresh edges and my MVP's being old(er) and kinda beat up. But for the moment, I find the R's to be more difficult to feather between hooking up and slarving, compared to the MVP. I'll report back when I've got the R's a bit more figured out.

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[MagnificentUnicorn]

I would make sure to take a file and round the edges on the tips and tails, check edge bevel and take a stone to the edges and gradually detune towards the center of the ski until you get the results you want. Mine felt grabby, sluggish and plowed through higher density snow until I did this. Now they’re way looser while still having great grip on groomers and are much better in dense or crusty snow. If you are buying these with the factory tune I would highly recommended this.


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[Self Jupiter]

Appreciate it, thanks toast

[XtrPickels]

Just got shipping notification - so hopefully we'll be getting a new batch of FR110 stoke soon.
Can't be letting you R110er's take over the thread completely.

[2FUNKY]

Appreciate it, thanks toast

Reading about the skis you like I think you would love R-Dimes. With no camber they are little harsh if not on edge on the really firm, not what that ski is for though and there are others for that. If it is soft they flat rule man.


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[Shredeagle]

I got the Fr110's out all weekend in our epic dumpage. 5 feet of snow last week. I skied these a bunch last year, the only problem was it didn't snow. So I got into doing skate park bumps on them. I read Gaijin's thing about just dropping your hips then watched some Hoji videos. Man oh man, these things are fun in the soft stuff. Especially the steep techy Bridger Bowl tight lines soft stuff. Pretty effortless shredding through the tech. A couple times I found myself feeling like mini Hoji , that is an addicting feeling!

What lean angle are peeps skiing on their boots for these type of skis? I set mine to 13, but going to experiment with 15 to put my weight a little more forward on my feet when I'm standing up straight.

[Self Jupiter]

Reading about the skis you like I think you would love R-Dimes. With no camber they are little harsh if not on edge on the really firm, not what that ski is for though and there are others for that. If it is soft they flat rule man.


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Yeah I think so too. Feels like the perfect DD for my (hopeful) return to Palisades and Shralpental type places. I loved the 194 Devastator for that and the R dimes feel like they would be even better. And they’re the right size.

[skinipenem]

.
They were trying to say this— “Pretend camber doesn’t exist. There is no tip. There is no tail. You’re standing in the middle of a directional saucer.” Coaches and high level racers spent a good ten years trying to say that to me. Their nomenclature was insufficient. They just kept saying “Drive your base, stop driving your edges.” I didn’t know what that meant.
.

I enjoy camber and reverse skis depending on the mood and application....

I'm very interested in your take on applying reverse techniques to cambered skis. Please spew... (potential short term thread hijack. Feel free to start new thread and I'll find it.)

Can't wait c to ski fr110 186 on snow. Almost finished futzing around on a 2x4 mount of strive 13 gw demo to play with mount point with plans for p15 2.0.... you know for science.


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[toast2266]

I would make sure to take a file and round the edges on the tips and tails, check edge bevel and take a stone to the edges and gradually detune towards the center of the ski until you get the results you want. Mine felt grabby, sluggish and plowed through higher density snow until I did this. Now they’re way looser while still having great grip on groomers and are much better in dense or crusty snow. If you are buying these with the factory tune I would highly recommended this.


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Yeah, that's pretty much what I'm doing. Just going at it incrementally to find the sweet spot.

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[Dantheman]

I'm still fussing with the tune on the R110 - currently mine feel much more locked in than the MVP's, but I don't *think* that's inherent to the design, I think it's just a result of the R's having fresh edges and my MVP's being old(er) and kinda beat up. But for the moment, I find the R's to be more difficult to feather between hooking up and slarving, compared to the MVP. I'll report back when I've got the R's a bit more figured out.

Have you put a flat bar on them? Sounds a lot like the pair I demo'ed that turned out to be edge-high

[toast2266]

Have you put a flat bar on them? Sounds a lot like the pair I demo'ed that turned out to be edge-high

I did - they're flat.

I wouldn't call them hooky. They just don't transition from hooked up carving to slidey smearing as easily as I'd like / as easily as it seems like they should. But I think they'll get there with some more detuning.

[MagnificentUnicorn]

Mine were way too sharp for my intended use. They are flat but were sharp from tip to tail. I’ve fixed that, now they are super pivoty and loose.


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[asmvolatile]

Honestly, I'm still figuring out the R110 a bit. Compared to the MVP, the R110 feels heavier, damper, and more inclined to crush through stuff. But the lack of camber also means it can feel a bit more jarring and not quite as smooth on firmer snow.

I'm still fussing with the tune on the R110 - currently mine feel much more locked in than the MVP's, but I don't *think* that's inherent to the design, I think it's just a result of the R's having fresh edges and my MVP's being old(er) and kinda beat up. But for the moment, I find the R's to be more difficult to feather between hooking up and slarving, compared to the MVP. I'll report back when I've got the R's a bit more figured out.

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Did you get the MO special tune? The initial tune on mine was immaculate (was the hand finish). I Core shotted and compressed the edge bit (sad!) and got a standard -2/-1 from the shop that fixed, and felt the only difference was that it was a bit scarier to commit to high edge angles on hard snow. But felt just as loose as before.