Who's driving a VW AllTrack?

[Dark Energy]

2017, TSI 4motion, 3 pedals. Currently 107K.
Haldex at 50K. Oil every 5K to 7K.
Water pump. Replaced at 62K. Starting at 100K have had to top coolant twice. Now infrequent whiffs of fluid when exiting vehicle.
Rear differential at 90K needs replaced. Very disappointed. After highway travel will hear loud grinding noise. Checked by 3 different mechanics. Each agree it is the rear differential (vs. wheel bearing) although there are no fluid leaks. Have kept driving as a commuter but no more than 35 miles at a times, as mechanics said more than 100 miles will heat up and seize. Expensive repair even with a used rear differential.
EPC light. Ugh. Between 50K and 90K was triggering infrequently when in stop and go crawling traffic with low rpm's. Puts it into limp mode. Turn off ignition, restart and EPC light gone and power restored. Was actually able to put it on the obd when happening with our highly regarded VW tuner mechanic - his conclusion is that it is the fuel injector sticking in cylinder #3. Suggested repair was to replace (vs clean) the fuel injectors. Still only using 97 California octane gas. Has not happened in last 15K.
I have been disappointed with the mechanical failures. Compared to the other cars in the stable [2011 WRX hatchback, 2005 garage queen z4, and 2012 Highlander], its my preferred ride for ergonomics, performance, versatility and economy.

[PhishingME]

2017, TSI 4motion, 3 pedals. Currently 107K.
Haldex at 50K. Oil every 5K to 7K.
Water pump. Replaced at 62K. Starting at 100K have had to top coolant twice. Now infrequent whiffs of fluid when exiting vehicle.
Rear differential at 90K needs replaced. Very disappointed. After highway travel will hear loud grinding noise. Checked by 3 different mechanics. Each agree it is the rear differential (vs. wheel bearing) although there are no fluid leaks. Have kept driving as a commuter but no more than 35 miles at a times, as mechanics said more than 100 miles will heat up and seize. Expensive repair even with a used rear differential.
EPC light. Ugh. Between 50K and 90K was triggering infrequently when in stop and go crawling traffic with low rpm's. Puts it into limp mode. Turn off ignition, restart and EPC light gone and power restored. Was actually able to put it on the obd when happening with our highly regarded VW tuner mechanic - his conclusion is that it is the fuel injector sticking in cylinder #3. Suggested repair was to replace (vs clean) the fuel injectors. Still only using 97 California octane gas. Has not happened in last 15K.
I have been disappointed with the mechanical failures. Compared to the other cars in the stable [2011 WRX hatchback, 2005 garage queen z4, and 2012 Highlander], its my preferred ride for ergonomics, performance, versatility and economy.

Sounds like its time to offload.

[alpinevibes]

Bump. Anyone swap their own battery on their Alltrack without coding? I’ve been reading around forums and it seems like there are split opinions if you need to recode the new battery or not for proper charging from the car/alternator.

Currently: The original battery on our ‘17 SE appears to have finally shit the bed, finally. Barely started this morning, then drove for a few hours and wouldn’t restart after getting gas. Buddy was with us and jumped it no problem. Drove another 90min home and it wouldn’t restart once we were parked. It’s a Enertec 480a from Mexico. I’m impressed it lasted 7 years…


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[whyturn]

Bump. Anyone swap their own battery on their Alltrack without coding? I’ve been reading around forums and it seems like there are split opinions if you need to recode the new battery or not for proper charging from the car/alternator.

Currently: The original battery on our ‘17 SE appears to have finally shit the bed, finally. Barely started this morning, then drove for a few hours and wouldn’t restart after getting gas. Buddy was with us and jumped it no problem. Drove another 90min home and it wouldn’t restart once we were parked. It’s a Enertec 480a from Mexico. I’m impressed it lasted 7 years…


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Had dealer do mine after 4 years and they did full reset and all codes

Brought my own high CCA battery and install was $125 with coupon

Sorry no word on self work


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[tuacati]

I replaced my battery with no coding 2 years ago. No issues.

[alpinevibes]

I drove down to Walmart this morning and put a bigger (H6) Everstart Max with 750cca in. Everything’s happy and I’m happy to have a beefier battery in for our driving conditions around here and the amount of electronics the vehicle runs.

The Alltrack is due for an oil change in 2000mi, so I’ll ask about coding then. Dont really want to spend $100+ if it’s just going to potentially optimize charging and extend the life of the battery, as a new battery is ~$150.


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[Touring_Sedan]

Bump. Anyone swap their own battery on their Alltrack without coding? I’ve been reading around forums and it seems like there are split opinions if you need to recode the new battery or not for proper charging from the car/alternator.

Currently: The original battery on our ‘17 SE appears to have finally shit the bed, finally. Barely started this morning, then drove for a few hours and wouldn’t restart after getting gas. Buddy was with us and jumped it no problem. Drove another 90min home and it wouldn’t restart once we were parked. It’s a Enertec 480a from Mexico. I’m impressed it lasted 7 years…


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Getting prepared to replace the battery on the wife's Atlas. From what I've been able to gather, when you swap the battery you're coding for CCA and battery type, (flooded, AFM, etc.) That way the charging system knows when and how to keep the battery topped off. I've seen mixed results if it hasn't been coded properly.

[alpinevibes]

Getting prepared to replace the battery on the wife's Atlas. From what I've been able to gather, when you swap the battery you're coding for CCA and battery type, (flooded, AFM, etc.) That way the charging system knows when and how to keep the battery topped off. I've seen mixed results if it hasn't been coded properly.

For sure. I’m asking a buddy here if he’s got anyone with VCDS or OBDIII and I’ll try to do it myself. Otherwise I’ll chat with the shop at the next oil change. Initially I thought it might be an issue at time-of-swap, but it was all good

[Touring_Sedan]

For sure. I’m asking a buddy here if he’s got anyone with VCDS or OBDIII and I’ll try to do it myself. Otherwise I’ll chat with the shop at the next oil change. Initially I thought it might be an issue at time-of-swap, but it was all good

Just got it in yesterday. Took about a half hour to get all the shit unbolted from the top of the old battery. OBDII coding took about 30 seconds. I had to change the battery type to AGM and update the serial number, Ah was the same. Cake.

[alpinevibes]

Nice, I haven't coded yet but this reminds me to try the OBD scanner I have at work. Not sure it will do it, but worth a try.

[Wes Mantooth]

I drove down to Walmart this morning and put a bigger (H6) Everstart Max with 750cca in. Everything’s happy and I’m happy to have a beefier battery in for our driving conditions around here and the amount of electronics the vehicle runs.

The Alltrack is due for an oil change in 2000mi, so I’ll ask about coding then. Dont really want to spend $100+ if it’s just going to potentially optimize charging and extend the life of the battery, as a new battery is ~$150.


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Where do you get work done on your Alltrack in the valley? We used to go to the dealership when it was still under warranty but now it's just obscene so I just go cheap local for oil changes, but I'd like to get a haldex service this interval and want to make sure they know what they're doing

[alpinevibes]

Where do you get work done on your Alltrack in the valley? We used to go to the dealership when it was still under warranty but now it's just obscene so I just go cheap local for oil changes, but I'd like to get a haldex service this interval and want to make sure they know what they're doing

I'm searching still; my wife seems to want it to go to European Autoworks. She's heard the new owner/guys are good.

I did the 60k service at GWS VW last year and it was a junk show and double the price it should have been. Our 70k service is coming up, so I need to just choose a place. I've taken cars to Aspen Total Auto up here because they're around the corner. They see a lot of Audis so I think they would be fine with VW stuff.

[alpinevibes]

Bump.

Anyone have recommendations on replacement brake pads+rotor sets other than OEM? I'm leaning towards a DIY or having my shade tree buddy do it over the weekend.

[banzai]

Cant go wrong with OEM, but brembo Xtra are worth a look, if you want a bit more performance and are willing to spend more. Also new fluid is a must imo.

[whyturn]

Bump.

Anyone have recommendations on replacement brake pads+rotor sets other than OEM? I'm leaning towards a DIY or having my shade tree buddy do it over the weekend.

I went with power stop red for my forester
Very happy with value and the increased stopping power
Got slotted and drilled


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[Wes Mantooth]

I'm searching still; my wife seems to want it to go to European Autoworks. She's heard the new owner/guys are good.

I did the 60k service at GWS VW last year and it was a junk show and double the price it should have been. Our 70k service is coming up, so I need to just choose a place. I've taken cars to Aspen Total Auto up here because they're around the corner. They see a lot of Audis so I think they would be fine with VW stuff.

We’re also approaching 70k. I’m gonna try out Euro in Glenwood I’ll let you know how it goes. They’re apparently sister shops with True/Riverside. I took my truck to Riverside for years and they were awesome. When they got bought by True they kept good mechanics but def got more modernized and prices went up quite a bit. Extremely nice people though and doesn’t feel shady, just pricier like everything else

I’m so done with GWS VW it’s an absolute racket. Was fine when everything was under warranty and I was getting lots of coupons for service intervals but no chance I’m going back there again


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[alpinevibes]

We’re also approaching 70k. I’m gonna try out Euro in Glenwood I’ll let you know how it goes. They’re apparently sister shops with True/Riverside. I took my truck to Riverside for years and they were awesome. When they got bought by True they kept good mechanics but def got more modernized and prices went up quite a bit. Extremely nice people though and doesn’t feel shady, just pricier like everything else

I’m so done with GWS VW it’s an absolute racket. Was fine when everything was under warranty and I was getting lots of coupons for service intervals but no chance I’m going back there again


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Exactly. I reached out to Euro yesterday; they're running a $46 premium synthetic oil change + inspection deal right now. I'll have them do that, but I'm hesitant to pay full-bore for a brake job.

[Shredhead]

When I purchased my wife's Audi TDI, I purchased the extended service package.
I had Glenwood Audi do my last oil change. I made it to Habitat before the oil plug blew out.
Not going back.

[jacob_dbu]

So I just had a leak in the sunroof...this was after the 50k "drain cleaning" they do at the dealer. Obviously I'm under warranty but I've heard some horror stories about fixing it taking forever, not working, etc. What is the collective thought on what I should do?

[skaredshtles]

Cover the entire sunroof in a thick layer of Aquaseal, eh?

[MyNameIsAugustWest]

Bump.

Anyone have recommendations on replacement brake pads+rotor sets other than OEM? I'm leaning towards a DIY or having my shade tree buddy do it over the weekend.

Brakes on the VW are stupid easy but you need a special bit for the rears. I forget the exact nomenclature but it's like a big Torx bit (triple square maybe?). I got mine at FCP Euro but I sold my VW and gave the bit to a friend who has an Alltrack.

So I just had a leak in the sunroof...this was after the 50k "drain cleaning" they do at the dealer. Obviously I'm under warranty but I've heard some horror stories about fixing it taking forever, not working, etc. What is the collective thought on what I should do?

There's a class action lawsuit for leaking sunroofs in VWs. Google will get you there. The stealership has to fix it. Depending on your year and mileage, it may be prorated.

Cover the entire sunroof in a thick layer of Aquaseal, eh?

Well played!

[jacob_dbu]

It just sucks, I know they have to fix it but I need to drive my car. Can't have it in a shop for multiple weeks.

[jackattack]

Snake the drains and remove the lower tabs that are supposed to keep out insects or whatever. I did my own and it was pretty fkn easy.

[Wes Mantooth]

Exactly. I reached out to Euro yesterday; they're running a $46 premium synthetic oil change + inspection deal right now. I'll have them do that, but I'm hesitant to pay full-bore for a brake job.

Did oil change and haldex at euro yesterday. They honor the $46 oil change they’re just a little backed up due to people cashing in on the promo so budget more time than you’d think. Haldex was pretty pricey but it’s in line with what I was expecting.

Overall extremely nice people and no surprises. I think if you know what you want done (and don’t want done) they’re a good shop. They didn’t give me a hard time or try to upsell anything when I declined certain services. I’ll likely keep going back for VW specific things

[MyNameIsAugustWest]

Snake the drains and remove the lower tabs that are supposed to keep out insects or whatever. I did my own and it was pretty fkn easy.

Right on but if your headliner is stained because of backed up drain lines, they have to replace it. Mine never suffered the issue before I sold it but I was watching it closely.