Ask the experts

[sfotex]

Shimano 10sp road will work with 9 or 10 speed MTB derailleurs too. The clutch is nice for rougher terrain. Should be available new or used at many price points. My commuter has 105 shifters and a deore derailleur.

I'm trying to figure out what will work with a 2x with in 11-35. The 105 medium cage says it works with an 11-34 gear range, and since its a road der I imagine it handles 2x in the front ok. But the gravel der seems like its designed for what I want and is like $56 and has a clutch, so it seems like a good candidate. There's a Shimano rear der in short, medium, and long cage now and some 2x options in the front.

[teledad]

I don't think the GRX derailleur (or Tiagra 4700) is compatible with a 10-speed Ultegra shifter - they use the 11-speed cable pull ratio.

If the crankset is 110 BCD you could swap the 38 for a 34 in the front and use a 11-32 in the back with a 105 medium cage derailleur. The other option is a 9 speed MTB derailleur (e.g. Deore).

[jamal]

Is 11-35 a cassette that actually even exists? Most shimano wide range road/gravel cassettes only go up to 11-34. And then there's 11-36.

Anyway yeah the grx 10s derailleur will work and handle it. Also, with only a 10t gap between your rings that gives you more range on the rear derailleur, although with a slightly less than ideal b-gap and shifting maybe. edit- oh right the grx 10s is different than old 10s sorry

New cranks/chainrings are another way to do it. 48/38 is kind of useless for anything but cyclocross. Now a "gravel" double is usually 46/30 so you could go from an easiest gear of 38x23 to 30x36.

[sfotex]

Is 11-35 a cassette that actually even exists? Most shimano wide range road/gravel cassettes only go up to 11-34. And then there's 11-36.

Anyway yeah the grx 10s derailleur will work and handle it. Also, with only a 10t gap between your rings that gives you more range on the rear derailleur, although with a slightly less than ideal b-gap and shifting maybe.

New cranks/chainrings are another way to do it. 48/38 is kind of useless for anything but cyclocross. Now a "gravel" double is usually 46/30 so you could go from an easiest gear of 38x23 to 30x36.

Ha, yeah, it will be 11-34 or 36, I haven't ordered yet so I split it. I will also probably replace the front rings at some point, I got a new rear wheel for it with a wider rim so I'm trying to figure out the rear end right now..

[Dee Hubbs]

Ha, yeah, it will be 11-34 or 36, I haven't ordered yet so I split it. I will also probably replace the front rings at some point, I got a new rear wheel for it with a wider rim so I'm trying to figure out the rear end right now..

You need a rear derailleur that's is:
-driven by a 10s STI
-clutched preferred
-handle 36t
-2x capable
That's a tough ask.

That 10s GRX RD-RX400 sounds like a good option, but it does not work with your current 10S STI lever. It only works with the 10s GRX and Tiagra levers that utilize a 11s pull ratio (Compatible only with 10-speed ST-RX400, ST-4700, ST4720, ST-4725, ST-RS405 and SL-4700 shift levers)

There is a lot of different info on mixing MTB and road components. My understanding is 7,8,9 speed MTB derailleur can be driven by a 10s road STI,
and clutches don't exist on any Shimano 9s MTB derailleurs.

The only RD kinda close is the 105 Med Cage with a 32T max.

[forty]

shimano 10spd road shifter to 10spd mtb rear der
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/tanpan

[Norseman]

^ I was trying to remember the name of the Wolf Tooth thingy on my CX bike to adapt its 105 road der to the 11-36 cassette... it's the "RoadLink"

[mcski]

Would you even need it for 36? I thought it was more to get cogs into the 40s??

[sfotex]

Would you even need it for 36? I thought it was more to get cogs into the 40s??

The largest cog on the older Ultegra rear der is 28 I believe?

Found this helpful chart: https://www.mantel.com/uk/blog/derai...mum-techcenter

[sfotex]

shimano 10spd road shifter to 10spd mtb rear der
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/tanpan

Thanks! I was looking at the Links on their site today but glossed over the Tanpan.

[Huskier]

(re)building a gravel bike (Salsa Journeyman) Years ago I tore it down to try my hand at painting and subsequently lost the headset. It's looking like it came with the IS41/IS47 standard. Do those numbers refer to head tube measurements or some kind of bearing standard? My google-fu sucks but it looks like only one option from cane Creek otherwise I'm looking at a converter to switch to a different standard. Second question: If I do end up having to use a converter which standard should I switch to for ease of future part-finding?

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[forty]

(re)building a gravel bike (Salsa Journeyman) Years ago I tore it down to try my hand at painting and subsequently lost the headset. It's looking like it came with the IS41/IS47 standard. Do those numbers refer to head tube measurements or some kind of bearing standard? My google-fu sucks but it looks like only one option from cane Creek otherwise I'm looking at a converter to switch to a different standard. Second question: If I do end up having to use a converter which standard should I switch to for ease of future part-finding?

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

is refers to integrated meaning bearings drop into frame and no press in cups, the numbers refer to the internal diameter of the headtube so 41mm upper and 47mm lower

is41 upper
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...?category=1688

is47 lower
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...?category=5770

also note what size steerer fork you are using, some is47 lowers were designed for 1 1/4 tapered forks which are kinda uncommon, so make sure to get correct internal diameter on the lower bearing to match your fork

[wendigo]

just posted all this for $200 - seem reasonable?

[NuMexJoe]

Upgrading from a tired DVO Topaz to a Mara Pro on my GG Smash. (The new Mezzer is SO MUCH better than the DVO Diamond I had on there). The Topaz has 15mm eyelets and the frame employs Igus reducer bushings and spacers that fit over 1/2" OD alum. sleeves (upper is 25.4mm long, lower is 42mm), through which the 8mm shock bolt runs to secure it. The new Mara has 15mm(?) eyelets with pressed-in metal sleeve bushings that yield an ID of <slightly> less that 1/2", so I cannot press in the aluminum sleeve without ruining the PFTE lining of the bushing. Should I press out the unused pre-lubricated bushings from both Mara Pro eyelets so I can re-used the current hardware, or should I order two RWC shock bushing kits from Real World Cycling and hope to be able to use the factory-installed PFTE-lined bushings?

[helldriven]

just posted all this for $200 - seem reasonable?

Definitely seems reasonable to me....

[Sandbox]

just posted all this for $200 - seem reasonable?

Where are you located?? I’d take that for $200 easily!


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[jm2e]

Redo the picture. The spare wheels, fenders, tire make it look like a half assembled bike. Redo the pic with the bike only and more color in the backdrop. Separate pick for the bonus stuff. Ask for $300. That thing will make a rad commuter for someone.


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[jdadour]

just posted all this for $200 - seem reasonable?

You should try to sell it to this guy!

https://theradavist.com/how-many-sur...o-many-surlys/

[ghosthop]

This looks like the right thread for me.

I am thinking about replacing my stolen bike with a rigid frame. Mostly because I hope to keep price down and I will be commuting with a toddler in Los Angeles. Will probably see some forest roads/gravel but who knows. I will be mounting a Thule yepp, probably with the seat post mount for compliance, and a shutgun/mac ride so that little man has options. Front rack as well.

Anything that will be best or get whatever comes along? In my head this bike is most likely a 26er or surly.

I am 5,5 with a 27in inseam if anyone is holding something they want to pass along. Currently in SLC and about to drive to CA.

[jackstraw]

Both my bikes headsets are creaking at the same time. Odd. Question is can you over grease headsets? I haven't pulled them yet. Assuming bearings are fine, but maybe not. I don't even know how to tell if they aren't unless it's an obvious crack or whatever.

[XXX-er]

I had a creaking head set on a Moab trip which the mechanic fixed by " drop the fork & cleaning the shit out of there " faster than i could crush a beer, so in total I've had 3 instances of creaking ( Yeti & SC twice with fox once with Zeb ) fixed by taking the stem/ head set apart to clean & lightly grease the area around the stem/ fork/ headset, super quick to do and it cost nothing

Moab is pretty dry and this mechanic also wrenches in a dry area so I have a wildass theory it is enviromental

Over greasing would just be messy from grease oozing out

[Andeh]

I'd say it's possible that extra grease collected grit and is causing the creaks, but more likely that neither of them got preloaded properly. Maybe the excess grease made it feel like it was tight enough but after a ride it got forced out and there was play. I've done that myself. I like to apply grease to headset cups/bearings with a little paintbrush because it helps not end up with huge globs and gets an even coat over the interfaces.

[XXX-er]

Well anything is possible but my point would be taking it apart for inspection can often go a long way,

In 3 cases of creaky singlecrown forks instead of replacing a fork, drop the fork and clean the shit out, and have a beer

[jackstraw]

The Bronson. Some corrosion. 3rd season. And yeah that was my concern about too much grease possibly not getting it tight enough.

[Andeh]

Have you popped the seal off that bearing to see how shitty it is inside?