Ask the experts

[El Chupacabra]

If that fork lockout requires a cable pull on it to keep it in open position (cable tension), you may be able to bypass it just by using a short length of cable and a crimp to hold tension. I did that once on an old RockShox fork.

[milestogo]

Good info. Thanks folks. Not a lot of options in this category without spending $$$.

[Meconium]

$79 more at universal without the remote thing.

[Meconium]

XC forks. Is the performance fork grip damper better then the 4 for lightweights? 90-110lbs

[Dee Hubbs]

The Grip damper is not better than the Fit4 damper.
If you mean the Grip2 or new GripX damper, that is suppose to be a better than/higher spec' damper than the Fit4, but for XC I would choose the Fit4 over the Grip2.

[Meconium]

For competitive xc kids? I was under the impression that the fit4 sucks ass.

[Roxtar]

Good info. Thanks folks. Not a lot of options in this category without spending $$$.

Unless you need new, post a WTB thing here.
I'd be amazed if there wasn't a mag that had something to offer.
I just bought a year old Factory 36 from Toast for $350.

[jamal]

i swapped a grip for a fit4 in my hei hei fork and the difference is pretty marginal. You can get a more low speed compression on open mode with the fit4 which a small, light person is probably not going to want anyway. Personally it lets me keep the fork full open more of the time which is nice as i don't have a remote. However, they tend to suck in air and need to be bled and rebuilt frequently. Every time I took off my lowers it had a shit ton of air and was barely doing anything. I recently put my grip back in because I don't want to deal with trying to take apart the fit damper again right now. I would consider trying the new grip SL cartridge but that fork has a ton of miles and is showing wear on the stanchions so if I do anything it'll just be a whole new fork (and probably a sid instead of another fox).

(also you can't put a grip 2 in the xc forks like the 32 and 34sc, they will only go in the regular 34).

[milestogo]

Unless you need new, post a WTB thing here.
I'd be amazed if there wasn't a mag that had something to offer.
I just bought a year old Factory 36 from Toast for $350.

Big issue is I need an uncut steerer. It's going on an Otso Fenrir, my kind of do-everything mixed surface ride bike, and while I have the redshift sports stem, I need something a little more cushy for the gnarlier class IV roads stuff. I got some hand issues that I have to accommodate for. I need a 9.5" steerer tube, and all the ones I see used max out at 8.5"

[El Chupacabra]

Anyone know if the fork lockout remotes are interchangeable between Fox and RockShox? I think I still have a RockShox one, which miles is welcome to have if it'll work on that Fox fork he's looking at.

[Tailwind]

I actually think it’s literally just a top cap… Fox dampers are more or less the same for remote vs not.

https://www.thepathbikeshop.com/prod...CABEgJii_D_BwE

I had a push to unlock lockout fail on a Bikepacking trip. I just removed it and manually turned the damper to open and then reinstalled without “clocking”.

You will need to use a remote, otherwise it will be locked out all the time I think being listed as "push to unlock". To change to not remote I think you have to remove the damper, disassemble it, and change the whole topcap/compression assembly

[meepmoop24]

I need to replace the headset on my Sentinel because it's creaking. I already tried taking it apart, cleaning it, greasing it, and putting it back together but the creaking is still there.

The Cane Creek Hellbender 70 seems like a solid choice, and it's 20% off at REI right now. Anything else I should consider?

[rideit]

What fork?
Could possibly be the CSU.

[meepmoop24]

What fork?
Could possibly be the CSU.

I just put a new Fox 38 Performance Elite on there. The headset is the stock FSA 57E and it's a few years old at this point, which is why I figured that was where the creaking was coming from.

[toast2266]

I just put a new Fox 38 Performance Elite on there. The headset is the stock FSA 57E and it's a few years old at this point, which is why I figured that was where the creaking was coming from.

38's are somewhat notorious for creaking csu's although I think fox has mostly resolved that issue on newer versions.

Is the creak only on harder impacts and while hard on the brakes? Or is it more of a constant low level thing? More constant = more likely to be the headset.

Slather a bunch of the grease in the headset. If that temporarily makes it better, it's probably the headset.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[XXX-er]

obviously he would have checked it while servicing the headset but had 3 instances of the creak ( roxshox & fox ) fixed by just cleaning around the stem & headset so before you go changing headsets at least try taking it apart

[meepmoop24]

38's are somewhat notorious for creaking csu's although I think fox has mostly resolved that issue on newer versions.

Is the creak only on harder impacts and while hard on the brakes? Or is it more of a constant low level thing? More constant = more likely to be the headset.

Slather a bunch of the grease in the headset. If that temporarily makes it better, it's probably the headset.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

obviously he would have checked it while servicing the headset but had 3 instances of the creak ( roxshox & fox ) fixed by just cleaning around the stem & headset so before you go changing headsets at least try taking it apart

It's more of a constant creak, and fairly low in volume. I mostly notice it while climbing, probably because it's a quieter creak.

I just had the whole headset apart because I installed the fork on my own. The bearings didn't feel super gritty so I didn't replace it them, but I did clean and regrease all the parts.

I'm thinking it's the headset. Is the CC Hellbender 70 a good choice or is there a better value option?

[toast2266]

The CC 70 is a good headset. On the short list of headsets that I'm willing to run. Go for it.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[beaterdit]

Curious as to any AXS derailleur. I've only run an XO AXS briefly - shifting was good, but the clutch was useless and chain management was a mess. I switched back to cabled XO1, which works fine in terms of the clutch, but my frame has shitty cable routing which leads to shitty shifting, so I'm back to investigating wireless. But I'm not gonna shell out for AXS unless I can find a way to improve the chain management. So I'm hoping someone has experimented with doing a hall lock on an AXS derailleur and can comment on whether it made things better.



Nice - let me know what you figure out.

I believe Sram put weaker clutches in the AXS derailleurs, supposedly to improve battery life (so the motor isn't fighting a strong clutch on each shift). But it makes for a lot of chain slap, and at least for me, a lot of dropped chains.

So I did this. One ride so far and things are much improved. Still have chain slap but seems less? The big thing is the loud clunk of the B-stop bottoming out when it swings back is gone. Shifting, if anything, is better, definitely not worse though.

Pedal washer in between the B-plate and the derailleur body, super easy. Fits perfect and is only 0.8mm thick so you don't lose much purchase on the hanger threads. Kept all other bits (retainer o-rings). I used red loctite as always still. Make sure your B-tension is set before you start, then after, you'll have to adjust your derailleur limits and indexing a bit to account for the +0.8mm offset.

I tried dude's way from the video with the washer under the axle bolt head and it did nothing. The AXS derailleurs have a different bolt/axle setup, actually WAY easier since all you have to do is pop of the B-plate. That video overall is kinda goofy, seemed to me he said a lot of kooky stuff and some just plain wrong things too? Later I found a reference to my way with SRAM/AXS on MTBR I think. He's right that cabled derailleurs would benefit from this too for sure. There is an increased risk of derailleur damage because it won't readily swing backward from a rock strike. Mine's pretty tight but it will move with a decent amount of force. Should be able to adjust this by varying the torque you use on the derailleur axle bolt.

[bennymac]

Jong question

Looking to replace the shock on a 2022 Element (Fox Float DPS performance sealed bearing eyelet / 20 x 8mm F hardware) to one with a remote lockout.

Found a 2021 Sid Luxe Ultimate with 2 position remote for sale - same 190mm length and 45mm stroke as my current shock (came off a Santa Cruz Blur)

Is there anything else I need to consider to determine if this will work with my bike? Both bikes have similar appearance in the placement/alignment of the shock - should the eyelets be expected to be similar or adaptable to fit?

[ASmileyFace]

My nearly new Super Deluxe Select+ shock is leaking air. Around ~10hrs of riding... Replaced valve core, checked in water with no obvious leaks but drops 10/15 PSI per 30 minutes of climbing. Just pumped it up to 250 and it was at 205 by the time I made it home on a 5 minute ride. Pump drops the pressure ~15/20 usually when attached.

Obvious answer to keep riding is to do a 50hr service... but I assume this might just be a straight to warranty situation since it is so new. Anyone else see this on a brand new Super Deluxe recently? Open to any advice to avoid sending it in and stop riding my brand new bike.

[XXX-er]

My nearly new Super Deluxe Select+ shock is leaking air. Around ~10hrs of riding... Replaced valve core, checked in water with no obvious leaks but drops 10/15 PSI per 30 minutes of climbing. Just pumped it up to 250 and it was at 205 by the time I made it home on a 5 minute ride. Pump drops the pressure ~15 usually when attached.

Obvious answer to keep riding is to do a 50hr service... but I assume this might just be a straight to warranty situation since it is so new. Anyone else see this on a brand new Super Deluxe recently? Open to any advice to avoid sending it in and stop riding my brand new bike.

I duno if checking PSI is an accurate way to tell cuz the air chamber on a rear shock is so small and you leak air when you check ?

I had a super deluxe lose air ovenight every night going which i could see by doing the pre-load check in the AM so I just kept pumping it up and sent it in over the winter but maybe you wana check with your LBS or who ever will be servicing what is the best thing to do ?

[ASmileyFace]

I duno if checking PSI is an accurate way to tell cuz the air chamber on a rear shock is so small and you leak air when you check ?

I had a super deluxe lose air ovenight every night going which i could see by doing the pre-load check in the AM so I just kept pumping it up and sent it in over the winter but maybe you wana check with your LBS or who ever will be servicing what is the best thing to do ?

I am not exactly sure how to check for air pressure leaks besides dunking it in a tank of water, checking religiously with a pump you're familiar with, or just checking the sag ring/feeling the shock bob more... but I am not much of a bike mechanic (which is why I am posting here lol). My personal fox shock pump drops ~20 PSI when I connect, but leaves it at the same PSI when disconnecting. I've been connecting to pump up to 200 at the top of every climb, checking on down days and just cycled it to 250 before riding 5 minutes home around an hours ago only to connect again and have it at 205. So I think I've identified that there is an issue at least.

My LBS (who I did not purchase the bike through) replaced the valve core and said to bring it in if that didn't fix it for a service... but I am 1+ hours from them so looking for confirmation that I should just do that rather than start the warranty process. Hence why I posted.

[snowaddict91]

My nearly new Super Deluxe Select+ shock is leaking air. Around ~10hrs of riding... Replaced valve core, checked in water with no obvious leaks but drops 10/15 PSI per 30 minutes of climbing. Just pumped it up to 250 and it was at 205 by the time I made it home on a 5 minute ride. Pump drops the pressure ~15 usually when attached.

Obvious answer to keep riding is to do a 50hr service... but I assume this might just be a straight to warranty situation since it is so new. Anyone else see this on a brand new Super Deluxe recently? Open to any advice to avoid sending it in and stop riding my brand new bike.

I have a buddy in Montrose that's a one man shop that is set up to do full suspension service/rebuilds, if you'd rather spend money to get it turned around quick. His turn around times are usually 1-2 days.

[helldriven]

Jong question

Looking to replace the shock on a 2022 Element (Fox Float DPS performance sealed bearing eyelet / 20 x 8mm F hardware) to one with a remote lockout.

Found a 2021 Sid Luxe Ultimate with 2 position remote for sale - same 190mm length and 45mm stroke as my current shock (came off a Santa Cruz Blur)

Is there anything else I need to consider to determine if this will work with my bike? Both bikes have similar appearance in the placement/alignment of the shock - should the eyelets be expected to be similar or adaptable to fit?

Only thing I can think of is how you will route the remote lockout cable, are you going to run it externally?