Bobby's used car lot and Free Carfax

[Touring_Sedan]

No lowballs, I know what I got.....

[Skistack]

car shopping fucking sucks

See, they install that Tru-Coat at the factory.


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[ticketchecker]

car shopping fucking sucks

Just wrapped up our chase, it’s a weird game these days.


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[bennymac]

See, they install that Tru-Coat at the factory.


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Sheit now I’m going to have to go watch that again.

https://www.automoblog.net/fargo/

[Danno]

See, they install that Tru-Coat at the factory.


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I wish I could buy new and just argue about tru-coat

[MontuckyFried]

I wish I could buy new and just argue about tru-coat

Yeah, no kidding. Checked anything out yet?

[Core Shot]

No lowballs, I know what I got.....

Hah

Lost a work van. Repairable for maybe 3k of bodywork and radiator and ac.
Insurance gave me $15k. 2012 Chevy cargo with 180k miles. Used market is fubar.

[Danno]

Yeah, no kidding. Checked anything out yet?

Yeah, looked at 3 cars, only one I was really interested in (the others were just "examples" of trims and had known flaws.

I did learn a few things. About what exactly I want, both in exact models/features and discovering that certain bells and whistles were more important than I realized. And discovering that inside condition is more important to me than I realized. Basically, realized that if I'm spending 30-35k the car needs to look good and "feel" like a significant upgrade.

But now my needle has gotten smaller in that haystack.

[El Chupacabra]

This one has rich Corinthian leather, and is a Maserati, sort of!

https://classics.autotrader.com/clas...rati/101905645

[gravitylover]

Those were pretty nice. For a K car.

[El Chupacabra]

Those were pretty nice. For a K car.

As nice as Jon Voight's?

[Aldo]

Those were pretty nice. For a K car.

There you go again your own , going down the only road….

[gravitylover]

^?

As nice as Jon Voight's?

I guess you could add some faux wood siding. Would that help?

[east or bust]

Need some advice from the collective.

My fiancé has been riding the car repair rollercoaster basically the entire time I've known her. She's got a 2012 Subaru Outback which IME are complete shit boxes past about 180k. Hers has about 215k, and she's recently put a significant amount of money into it to address the timing belt assembly and fix a stubborn oil leak. The plan was to get the work done and dump it. I'm too worried the head gasket is next..

TL/DR we're planning to sell her current vehicle but need something to drive for the winter and will hopefully last a few years and not break the bank.


Her rents have a 1996 Suburban with 345k on it. It drives surprisingly well, just drove it over the pass in fact. It's been not so well kept in its later years so has a lot of small shit that needs fixing - dome lights, the drivers front window doesn't close properly, the rear hatch doesn't lock, etc. I feel like we could probably rough it through the winter but if a significant repair pops up we're going to be running a single vehicle which won't work.

Since that Chevy platform seems to be pretty bombproof it got me thinking about trying to find a lower miles, better condition, Tahoe/Suburban. Sure enough I found a '97 Tahoe somewhat locally that appears to be in damn near immaculate condition with only about 130k on the clock. It's priced reasonably as well (<$9k). Should we jump on it or is that a terrible idea?

[MyNameIsAugustWest]

We had a 1999 Suburban 2WD when we lived in No. Carolina. That's the same platform/model as the 96 Suburban. 4 kids and a big dog and having returned 2 Chrysler minivans under lemon laws led us to this. It was a great vehicle. Then we moved to Syracuse and needed 4WD so we got a 2002 Suburban. That was not a great car. Brake rotors rusted to dust almost every year because of the salt. My dad had a similar vintage and had to replace the transmission at 150K. I would say the 97 Tahoe would be a decent bet, given the history of her parents' Suburban. Way better than that Subaru....

[snowaddict91]

Unless you need a full size SUV, I'd shop for a RAV4, highlander, CRV, or Pilot. Should be able to find something decent for under $9k.

[Touring_Sedan]

Need some advice from the collective.

My fiancé has been riding the car repair rollercoaster basically the entire time I've known her. She's got a 2012 Subaru Outback which IME are complete shit boxes past about 180k. Hers has about 215k, and she's recently put a significant amount of money into it to address the timing belt assembly and fix a stubborn oil leak. The plan was to get the work done and dump it. I'm too worried the head gasket is next..

TL/DR we're planning to sell her current vehicle but need something to drive for the winter and will hopefully last a few years and not break the bank.


Her rents have a 1996 Suburban with 345k on it. It drives surprisingly well, just drove it over the pass in fact. It's been not so well kept in its later years so has a lot of small shit that needs fixing - dome lights, the drivers front window doesn't close properly, the rear hatch doesn't lock, etc. I feel like we could probably rough it through the winter but if a significant repair pops up we're going to be running a single vehicle which won't work.

Since that Chevy platform seems to be pretty bombproof it got me thinking about trying to find a lower miles, better condition, Tahoe/Suburban. Sure enough I found a '97 Tahoe somewhat locally that appears to be in damn near immaculate condition with only about 130k on the clock. It's priced reasonably as well (<$9k). Should we jump on it or is that a terrible idea?

IMO, that's the best generation of full sized GM SUV's. We ran quite a few into the 300K range as fleet vehicles. Of course in a vehicle that old there's bound to be some repairs needed, but you can fix them with a hammer and they don't need a specialist any ole mechanic can do it. The LT-1 is one of the last best V-8s out there. No variable valves, or other weird shit. If the interior is in acceptable shape you'll probably get close to what you paid for it when you dump it in a few years.

Things to check other than the obvious,

Door hinges, they like to sag. Probably why it wasn't closing properly

ABS pump. They're unobtanium.

[MontuckyFried]

Sure enough I found a '97 Tahoe somewhat locally that appears to be in damn near immaculate condition with only about 130k on the clock. It's priced reasonably as well (<$9k). Should we jump on it or is that a terrible idea?

That's super low miles for that gen! While 9K seems like a lot for such an old vehicle, they're pretty reliable, built sturdy, and parts are usually plentiful and cheap. If it's in such immaculate condition, you can probably drive for as long as you want then sell it for about what you have into it. I say go for it! But plan on joining us in the wrenching thread. Those are easy to work on for the most part and DIY is absolutely the way to go for most things except engine/trans out jobs. Quite a few mags have loads of experience with those old GMs so you should have plenty of guidance to go around. Post pics!

[El Chupacabra]

If you liked driving the parents' Suburban, you have a pretty good idea what you'd be getting with that Tahoe. Test everything before buying - 4 high and low range. If you can drive it without the seller, find somewhere you can slam on the brakes and trigger ABS.

I'm more partial to the GMT800 era - the next generation newer from what you're looking at, stronger engines and more powerful brakes, slightly better mileage. Same transmission, transfer case, axles. Older GMT400 trucks may only have a driver's steering wheel airbag, or IIRC none at all.

If that Tahoe is in good shape, doesn't appear to need anything immediately, go for it. I'd still expect to have to repair some things, it's pretty old. However, don't buy it if you're not able or willing to DIY repairs - the labor costs will kill any value in this deal.

[MontuckyFried]

However, don't buy it if you're not able or willing to DIY repairs - the labor costs will kill any value in this deal.

Eeeeeexactly. Rad vehicles for those wiling to do their own wrenching. Can be annoyingly costly for those who are not. Not to dissuade anybody at all! It's just ANY vehicle from the 90s is going to need lots of stupid little things due to aging plastics, which is perfectly acceptable for many of us who stay on top of those items in the comfort of our own garages, BUT would be annoying to have to take to the shop for every little thing. More than costs alone, just how backed up every shop is these days. Plus, it's an old Chevy. ANYBODY can work on them, which is a huge plus IMO. They're not all picky about precise torque specs and some "magical" OEM fluids like my Euro cars are. ie, pretty easy to keep 'em going for a long, long time. And hell, engine or trans blows up? Plenty easy and cost effective (sorta) to find replacements for.

[BmillsSkier]

Chevy. They're not all picky about precise torque specs and some "magical" OEM fluids. And hell, engine or trans blows up? Plenty easy and cost effective (sorta) to find replacements for.

If you go into the Renaissance Center in Detroit this is the GM motto that's hanging on the lobby wall.

[El Chupacabra]

The GM autotrac transfer case is picky on fluids, don't just pour Dexron in there - it's the one with an auto button on the dash, along with 2/4hi/4lo.

I think a lot of GM truck design pre-2008 is made so drunk rednecks can fix them. Not a bad thing.

[Timberridge]

If you go into the Renaissance Center in Detroit this is the GM motto that's hanging on the lobby wall.

Wait till all the pissed off UAW workers return to work at some point. I wouldn't want one of the 1st cars to roll off the line.

[anotherVTskibum]

If you liked driving the parents' Suburban, you have a pretty good idea what you'd be getting with that Tahoe. Test everything before buying - 4 high and low range. If you can drive it without the seller, find somewhere you can slam on the brakes and trigger ABS..

I see no reason you can't engage ABS with the seller in the car. I mean, you should obviously provide fair warning and pick a spot where there's no one behind you and plenty of room forward even if you encounter a brake issue. Honestly, any seller that gets pissed I want to check ABS would probably make me nervous about the vehicle.

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

Yeah, I've never had a seller on a ride along that told me no when I asked if i could do a brake check. Make sure you take your hands off the steering wheel when you do it. They've always been more nervous when I drive next to a wall with the windows down to listen for funny noises.