Ask the experts

[Spencer123]

I feel like an idiot. I ordered a new shock, the mounting hardware is in, but both eyelets are oriented for the bolts to come in right to left. The rear attachment to the clevis on my ripmo is vertical. Can this be rotated or did I buy an incompatible shock?

Thanks!!

[grskier]

I feel like an idiot. I ordered a new shock, the mounting hardware is in, but both eyelets are oriented for the bolts to come in right to left. The rear attachment to the clevis on my ripmo is vertical. Can this be rotated or did I buy an incompatible shock?

Thanks!!

Go down to the corner store and grab some ducktape and bubblegum.
Or try this:
https://youtube.com/shorts/Jf7l5d9V_g0?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/Jf7l5d9V_g0?feature=share

[Andeh]

I feel like an idiot. I ordered a new shock, the mounting hardware is in, but both eyelets are oriented for the bolts to come in right to left. The rear attachment to the clevis on my ripmo is vertical. Can this be rotated or did I buy an incompatible shock?

Thanks!!

Let the air out and you'll be able to rotate the rear part of the shock.

[Spencer123]

Well that saved me from a real spiral. Thanks!!

QUOTE=Andeh;6903765]Let the air out and you'll be able to rotate the rear part of the shock.[/QUOTE]

[grskier]

Well that saved me from a real spiral. Thanks!!

QUOTE=Andeh;6903765]Let the air out and you'll be able to rotate the rear part of the shock.

[/QUOTE]

I bet...

Watch that video I posted, it's that simple.... which, as one would assume with bikes, is rare.

[Spencer123]

It is such an unexpected surprise for sure when you think you blew it and the solution is actually no big deal. Appreciate it!

[Lvovsky]

It’s a Festivus miracle!

[rideit]

Even more so if the bike were a Pole.

[basinbeater]

I'm annoyed as shit. Replacing warped 180mm Shimano rotor on my yeti sb6, and I put xt ice tech ones one. 3 rides later they are squealin and rubbing and warped. Wtf.
What are you guys riding that stay straight and don't rub and make noise?
Brakes are 2 piston slx. I weigh 185 out of the shower.

[joetron]

I'm annoyed as shit. Replacing warped 180mm Shimano rotor on my yeti sb6, and I put xt ice tech ones one. 3 rides later they are squealin and rubbing and warped. Wtf.
What are you guys riding that stay straight and don't rub and make noise?
Brakes are 2 piston slx. I weigh 185 out of the shower.

Not to turd your rant punch bowl, but how are your pads looking? When was the last bleed?
Can’t say I’ve really ever seen rotors “warp” in modern bike times.
Sometimes they aren’t straight out of the box, sometimes they get dinged in a ride or in transit; but they don’t just warp unless something else is out of wack…like waaay too much heat from worn pads, haggard fluid, misaligned caliper/sticky piston etc r some combo above.


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[XXX-er]

Whatever came on the bike which are the guides right now

I had to buy a kit & bleed them last spring and they been fine

but some dentist will prolly tell you they are shit

but everything is shit except you

your issue could be rotors/ brake calipers/ brake levers

[basinbeater]

Yeah, maybe I gotta dig into the calipers. The rotors have 3 rides on them. Pads are finned metallic Shimano, they looked pretty good to me when I was installing the rotors. I pulled them and inspected. Maybe I need to bleed. Front has enough side to side in one spot it is making a squeal each rotation.
Maybe I just gotta push the rotor in the caliper to move the pistons a little bit back and forth, restore full motion.
Alright, I was down there screwing around with the front (main culprit). One piston definitely was retracting more than the other. I pushed the pistons all the way in, pulled the pads, squeezed lever in to expose as much piston area as I could, dirty crust. I sprayed caliper with diluted simple green and used a small brush to scrub away nastiness. Got em as clean as I could and cycled them a few times in and out. Now I got no rubbing. Guess it's time to look up how to do a caliper rebuild and then fluid change. Before throwing parts at it at least.

[joetron]

Shimano doesn’t recommend popping pistons and rebuilding.
Best bet is a thorough bleed/fluid change, and cleaning pistons like you did. Dab/wipe mineral oil on pistons, cycle a few times, then push them back to flush with caliper body and spritz/clean excess fluid with iso again.
However,throw the Simple Green in the garbage, it’s bad for bikes. Just use isopropyl alcohol for brakes. Mild dish soap (classics Dawn) is the best bang for the buck for everything else.


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[simple]

50% off WTB volt saddles today as they clear out inventory for the redesigned version

[Boissal]

For rotors, I haven't had any issues since I went to the Galfer Waves. First time I got my hands on one I thought I had fucked up as they are bendier than the Shimanos. Turns out they are so bendy they always go back to center and pad rub is a thing of the past no matter how much I abuse the rotors. I didn't exactly spend all my time straightening my Shimano rotors but it did happen a few times per season and I'm glad it's a thing of the past. Bonus: Wave rotors and light and look super good.

[Roxtar]

I'm annoyed as shit. Replacing warped 180mm Shimano rotor on my yeti sb6, and I put xt ice tech ones one. 3 rides later they are squealin and rubbing and warped. Wtf.
What are you guys riding that stay straight and don't rub and make noise?
Brakes are 2 piston slx. I weigh 185 out of the shower.

Not to turd your rant punch bowl, but how are your pads looking? When was the last bleed?
Can’t say I’ve really ever seen rotors “warp” in modern bike times.
Sometimes they aren’t straight out of the box, sometimes they get dinged in a ride or in transit; but they don’t just warp unless something else is out of wack…like waaay too much heat from worn pads, haggard fluid, misaligned caliper/sticky piston etc r some combo above.

Gotta agree w/ JT here. I've used IceTech rotors since they came out and have never had a warping problem.
I've used them with 4 pot XTs, XTRs and now with Hope T4V4s.
They shriek like crazy when they get wet but other than that...

[Tailwind]

Can anyone comment on the durability of Next R cranks? I know they’ve had some issues but I’m not sure how bad it is.

They’re for sale most places and seem like they’d take 300 grams off the cheap alloy RaceFace cranks I have currently. Also considering some fancy aluminum cranks (5dev or XTR) but I’m having a hard time finding Superboost sizes used or new models on sale.

[VTskibum]

YMMV but I personally didn’t have any issues with the ones I had on my race bike w probably 4k miles and a few BBs through them. As far as I know the guy I sold the bike to is still riding them. Probably had to play w tension a few times over the years.

I did hear of some others that had issues with them though.


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[Eluder]

All carbon cranks can be problematic to some degree. Apparently not the Next R replacement though...

If you strike your cranks a lot or are really heavy maybe look elsewhere, otherwise full send.

I have a set that has never been a problem.

[Roxtar]

Can anyone comment on the durability of Next R cranks? I know they’ve had some issues but I’m not sure how bad it is.

They’re for sale most places and seem like they’d take 300 grams off the cheap alloy RaceFace cranks I have currently. Also considering some fancy aluminum cranks (5dev or XTR) but I’m having a hard time finding Superboost sizes used or new models on sale.

I'd opt for the ERAs (and know someone selling a set )
As for super-boost, the easiest way is just use the OneUp switch carrier. Works perfectly on my SB Evil.

[Tailwind]

Yeah… I’ve seen those listed on Pikebike and here. Tempting but the Next R is over $100 cheaper and I’d be the original owner. Specs are similar on paper.

Nice cranks though.

I'd opt for the ERAs (and know someone selling a set )
As for super-boost, the easiest way is just use the OneUp switch carrier. Works perfectly on my SB Evil.

[Andeh]

From what I understand in the Fanatik dissection/test/destruction video of the new ERA cranks, the old Next SL/R cranks were pretty similar designs, with the R getting a tiny bit larger metal insert and a bit more carbon around it. But it still failed easily.

I had Next SLs and had both spindle inserts fail (not a particularly heavy or hucking rider). Had them replaced under warranty with Next R and sold that shit unused. Would never recommend buying that design.

[Roxtar]

From what I understand in the Fanatik dissection/test/destruction video of the new ERA cranks, the old Next SL/R cranks were pretty similar designs, with the R getting a tiny bit larger metal insert and a bit more carbon around it. But it still failed easily.

I had Next SLs and had both spindle inserts fail (not a particularly heavy or hucking rider). Had them replaced under warranty with Next R and sold that shit unused. Would never recommend buying that design.

The fanatik ERA video is why I bought the ERAs. Just a huge difference from anything they've made before, including the Next R.
Specs don't show strength or construction/durability

[toast2266]

Can anyone comment on the durability of Next R cranks? I know they’ve had some issues but I’m not sure how bad it is.

They’re for sale most places and seem like they’d take 300 grams off the cheap alloy RaceFace cranks I have currently. Also considering some fancy aluminum cranks (5dev or XTR) but I’m having a hard time finding Superboost sizes used or new models on sale.

I've been on the original one's since they came out. So 6 years or so. I've warrantied them once (pedal insert failure). The failure was non-catastrophic (it just kinda got loose and wiggly). Otherwise no issues. Plenty of rock strikes and hard landings. I'm ~165 lbs, although I weighed less 6 years ago when I got the cranks. Getting fat.

[beaterdit]

Yeah… I’ve seen those listed on Pikebike and here. Tempting but the Next R is over $100 cheaper and I’d be the original owner. Specs are similar on paper.

Nice cranks though.

Broke a set of Next SLs, but those are notorious. Sold the warranty replacements and went with SIXC. That said, those Next SLs took a hell of a beating. Rode them upward of 4000 miles with lots of Enduro racing, hucking and just hard riding. I'm am light though, racing weight only around 140. Heavier than that now, also getting fat, ha.

I'd ride the Next R in a heartbeat and the also the ERA for sure. Best deal I get is from Rotor though, local too. So I'm on their Kapic Carbon, which has held up fine so far. eeWings are the dream but shit, still working on establishing my dental practice. Tough not being an actual dentist.