Ask the experts

[Robik]

Any ideas on how to fix stripped threads in fork post mount? Bought a used bike on PB at a very good price and just put it together and immediately notice that brake caliper is loose. Tried different length bolt but it tops out. Helicoil? Larger diameter hole and tap? Then caliper needs to be drilled out.

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[climberevan]

Any ideas on how to fix stripped threads in fork post mount? Bought a used bike on PB at a very good price and just put it together and immediately notice that brake caliper is loose. Tried different length bolt but it tops out. Helicoil? Larger diameter hole and tap? Then caliper needs to be drilled out.

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The next available size bolt (even if SAE) will require less hole enlargement than a helicoil, and that's what I'd try.

[Robik]

The next available size bolt (even if SAE) will require less hole enlargement than a helicoil, and that's what I'd try.

Wouldn't it require a larger diameter bolt? M7, for example, wouldn't fit in the caliper.

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[Bushwacka]

I have a buddy with that same issue. I did two custom builds for him and it was tough.
Like you said, long travel droppers have been a savior for him. On the other side his love of 175mm cranks has made low BB height the devil.

honestly I HATE small crank.

Every time I ride my old Trance or my Canfield N9 I am remind how much easier longer cranks are in rolling technical terrain. Sure you have less clearance but you can hold larger gear and use more torque than spin to get though things.

[Dee Hubbs]

Any ideas on how to fix stripped threads in fork post mount? Bought a used bike on PB at a very good price and just put it together and immediately notice that brake caliper is loose. Tried different length bolt but it tops out. Helicoil? Larger diameter hole and tap? Then caliper needs to be drilled out.

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Helicoil is the best option. It will allow you to use proper caliper bolts in the future.
They often get stripped when a user puts the longer bolt in the shallow hole and continues to torque it down, even though it has bottomed out.
You can get a Helicoil kit on Amazon for $20.

The better option and more professional approach is a Time Sert, but it’s a bigger investment in the tools and insert kit.

[Roxtar]

Helicoil is the best option. It will allow you to use proper caliper bolts in the future.
They often get stripped when a user puts the longer bolt in the shallow hole and continues to torque it down, even though it has bottomed out.
You can get a Helicoil kit on Amazon for $20.

What he said.
It's a pretty easy process. Just be careful with the drilling that it doesn't grab, pulling the drill in too deep.

[Dee Hubbs]

What he said.
It's a pretty easy process. Just be careful with the drilling that it doesn't grab, pulling the drill in too deep.

Go slow, and use lube as you go. Magnesium is an easy material to drill/machine.

[buttahflake]

So I’m saving up for the Giant Revolt Pro frame, what size DUB press fit bb do I need for this frame? Or if you can link one from Performance or whoever else you like. This thread is awesome.

[Gunder]

What he said.
It's a pretty easy process. Just be careful with the drilling that it doesn't grab, pulling the drill in too deep.

Countersink the existing hole before you drill for the insert will also help it align.

The correct way to do this is take a scrap piece of metal or an older caliper bracket and drill one end out to serve as a drill guide with the other end bolted to the still good hole. That same guide should also be used to guide the tap too.

[beaterdit]

I have a tricky one: I have stupid long legs for my height (5’8”, 33 inseam) , but relatively short arms and torso. Until really long droppers showed up, if a frame fit my legs, it would be waaaay too long. If it fit my reach, it would be way too small.

Whoa, same except shorter here. 5'7", 33" inseam. Finding pants is crazy tough but yeah, droppers make bike sizing easier. Still, can easily end up with a slacker STA based on extension. I'm pretty solidly in the low end of the medium range for most brands but whenever I was in between, I'd size up for that reason. Hate slack STAs. 170mm seems fine for me for a dropper though.

That's a tougher question than it used to be.
In the past, I would agree with Toast, standover clearance was a primary issue. Short legs meant size down.
Current slacked out/long reach geometry has made things a little less black and white. Reach is now the big factor. It depends more on the torso and arm combo than leg length.
Most manufacturers have brought standover down to reduce it's effect.
Also, seat angle comes into the equation since that affects actual reach.

More than ever, it's important to get on the actual bike if you're a tweener.

STA doesn't affect reach so much as effective Top Tube Length.

Reach is the horizontal distance from the center of the head tube to a vertical line that runs through the center of the bottom bracket shell. This measurement represents how a mountain bike fits when you're standing up on the pedals, like when you're descending.

For sure important for climbing position which obviously is where most people spend most of their time on most bikes. Most of us also value descending prowess and stability though, where you're out of the saddle anyway and where reach comes in. Also has a bigger effective range and can be more of a personal preference than Top Tube Length, which has to be closer to your ideal. I think you are actually an expert and you probably get this and it's just semantics, or you misspoke but...

I have a buddy with that same issue. I did two custom builds for him and it was tough.
Like you said, long travel droppers have been a savior for him. On the other side his love of 175mm cranks has made low BB height the devil.

Yeah 175s are unnecessary for most, can't believe they come on any bikes anymore. According to a couple calculators I've tried, even with my relatively long 33" inseam, 167.5 is my ideal length. The difference in power output to 165 or 170 is less than 1% though so I could go either way. I have 170s on all my bikes just because until recently those were way easier to find from most brands than 165s. Since 165s are much easier to get now though, I'm putting them on the Lady's bikes for sure, and probably mine too eventually.

[Dee Hubbs]

So I’m saving up for the Giant Revolt Pro frame, what size DUB press fit bb do I need for this frame? Or if you can link one from Performance or whoever else you like. This thread is awesome.

https://www.performancebike.com/sram...16.000/p729965

[buttahflake]

Yes, thanks Dubbs!

[Blaster]

Mega bike jong question...

Installing some PNW loam grips and torqued the screws to 4nm and still can twist/rotate the grips with the amount of effort I might expect while riding. I have carbon bars. Should I tighten further or do something else even smarter?

[chicken feathers]

Mega bike jong question...

Installing some PNW loam grips and torqued the screws to 4nm and still can twist/rotate the grips with the amount of effort I might expect while riding. I have carbon bars. Should I tighten further or do something else even smarter?

I would try using some fiber grip and torque to spec.

If that still seems suspect I’d try another set of grips to see if they fit better.

I’m sure someone else has ideas.

[toast2266]

Looking for input on settings for the new Lyrik (2023). I think there’s a few folks on here that have been running one. I’ve been sticking with the factory suggested settings while getting used to the fork. I’m about 175lb with gear. I remember a good discussion about the 36 grip2 in the Transition thread a few years back and that was very helpful.

Which version of the lyrik? I end up with drastically different settings on a select vs. an ultimate.

[g_man80]

Which version of the lyrik? I end up with drastically different settings on a select vs. an ultimate.

Ah, sorry. 2023 Ultimate w/ Charger 3 damper.

[Meconium]

Can try alcohol if residual moldrelease was present. Bars/inside grip to Asher dry friction. Never used carbon paste/Greece

[Meconium]

assure

[toast2266]

Ah, sorry. 2023 Ultimate w/ Charger 3 damper.

For me, I'm at the low end of RS's recommended pressure (around 76psi for my ~165 lbs), 1 token, currently 9 clicks of LSC (although I fiddle with that depending on the ride), and 2 clicks HSC. Rebound to taste.

I'd go up a couple psi for bike parky riding, and down a psi or two for slower speed backcountry stuff.

That's on a 160 lyrik ultimate charger 3.

[g_man80]

Thanks. Mines also set at 160mm. I need to open up the air side and confirm there’s currently no tokens (I think they come with zero from the factory; correct me if that’s wrong).

Interesting that you settled on adding a token. Most of the reviews stated that it ramped up more and had firmer mid-stroke support than the previous Lyrik. Therefore, not really needing volume spacers. Could that due to the smaller negative air chamber?

Of course that’s a good example of not believing everything in a review. They need something to write about. Also, so far my opinion is the effects of the buttercups are subtle at best.

[XXX-er]

Mega bike jong question...

Installing some PNW loam grips and torqued the screws to 4nm and still can twist/rotate the grips with the amount of effort I might expect while riding. I have carbon bars. Should I tighten further or do something else even smarter?

if you are saying your carbon bars are slipping and you didn't use carbon paste you need carbon paste

[toast2266]

Thanks. Mines also set at 160mm. I need to open up the air side and confirm there’s currently no tokens (I think they come with zero from the factory; correct me if that’s wrong).

Interesting that you settled on adding a token. Most of the reviews stated that it ramped up more and had firmer mid-stroke support than the previous Lyrik. Therefore, not really needing volume spacers. Could that due to the smaller negative air chamber?

Of course that’s a good example of not believing everything in a review. They need something to write about. Also, so far my opinion is the effects of the buttercups are subtle at best.

It definitely ramps up a lot more, and has more mid support than the old version of the lyrik. But I was running 2 tokens in the old lyrik.

I could definitely see running zero tokens, especially for regular trail riding. I still like that bit of extra ramp for when I really bury the front end into something, but a lot of the time, I'd maybe be better off with no tokens and a smidge more pressure.

[Andeh]

Ah, sorry. 2023 Ultimate w/ Charger 3 damper.

Not exactly what you're looking for, but I'm a couple lbs lighter running a pair of Zeb Ultimates. I found the pressures their app suggests gives me right at 20% sag, but I had to take out the tokens in both (ebike and enduro bike) to let me use more damping. After that, I run LSC in the middle and HSC 1 click opened from middle. When I had 1 token in there, I was only getting 75-80% travel with the damping almost completely open. Now I get about 80-85%. If the Lyrik '23 has a similar air spring design, it's worth trying 0 tokens and more damping.

[NuclearNachos21]

anybody wearing shimano glasses? technium look pretty alright on paper but not really many reviews


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[skinipenem]

Picked up a 2022 summum rr mx this week. I'm pretty sure the coil spring at 450lb 225mm will be too soft. Is there a way to calculate coil spring rate for a 27-30% sag without trial and error with multiple springs?

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