I'm guessing WRG's local lift served is gonna be a minute...![]()
I'm guessing WRG's local lift served is gonna be a minute...![]()
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Disco opened last weekend but yeah.
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I absolutely went through this with my DVO Onyx. Took me like 20 runs on my test track faffing with the air before I finally got it figured out and ended up with a much higher pressure than I was expecting. I'm tuning my Zeb Ult RC2.1 right now and already removed a token, and I wont hesitate to remove them all and see how it feels.
WRG, everything I've heard about Zeb Select is that it's just not good. The big volume doesn't jive well with the basic RC damper and the air spring has drawbacks that are also amplified by the damper. A '22 Zeb Ult should be a pretty cheap upgrade and will be worth putting extra money into like adding the new DebonAir+ airspring with buttercups or a Luftkappe (the new air spring actually has a larger negative chamber and should come close to the Luftkappe performance.
And speaking of the Zeb's large air chamber, does anybody have a recommendation on a digital shock pump? My analog one is hard to get accurate beyond 5psi and with the low pressures of the fork, 3psi could easily be a 5% change in air pressure.
I'll try taking out the token and going to like 15% sag and see what happens. Beyond that I'm just gonna tough it out and wait until I can buy a new fork.
I like the Blackburn one. Almost every digital shock pump uses the exact same actual display/sensor (Fox, RS, Topeak, and the Blackburn one), but what I like about this one is that it's shorter overall length means it's easier to store in a vest/pack/bumbag for tuning laps.
I've got the Blackburn one too but just saw a Lezyne one at my LBS that is pretty compact looking and wish that'd been available a few years ago.
Based on this thread, I just bought the short Topeak one with a gauge, as it’s only 8.5” long, and will fit in my frame bag unobtrusively. I have one of those ridiculously tiny emergency ones, but it’s a pita.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Any Ridewrap whisperers lurking? Secrets to a good install?
I’ve found it’s all about the solution mix. The solution packet in the kit mixes at something like 2 drops per liter of water or something like that. But it’s kinda thick, so tough to measure out a drop.
On my last wrap job I initially made the mix too strong and the piece just slid around and wouldn’t stick. So I poured out some of the spray bottle and added water and it got way better. I then realized that I had been using too weak of a mix in the past. I had a much easier time removing bubbles this last go round.
Be liberal with the spray on the pieces and spray your fingertips for every piece so you avoid fingerprints.
When applying, start pushing down in the center of the piece and squeegee out from there.
Using the microfiber along the edges is really effective to pull solution out from the edge and get it to stick down in place.
Finally, start with the smaller pieces and get the feel of it and the technique dialed before doing big pieces like the top tube.
Do the top tube last, that’s the one you’re gonna be staring at when riding and you want that shit looking good!
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I used 3M paint protection film, which is basically what those invisiframe kits are made out of. It applies like car window tinting film, which means it’s a little bit of a pain if you don’t use a window tint squeegee tool and spray bottle, and it takes a while to figure out how to work it. But it holds exceptionally well once applied … it’s held up extremely well over 7 years on my bike! Had only partially peeled from my fork stanchions which see a lot of abuse. I wrapped the sides of my top tube and left a small gap on the top … well my frame is so old that my sweat has attacked the original factory paint on my top tube where the gap is, but not where the paint protection film was applied.
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"Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.
I'll be there." ... Andy Campbell
I use the Effettomariposa Shelter Off-Road stuff on the super vulnerable places; downtube, rear triangle, wherever you're likely to get serious rock shots.
Pricey but works really, really well; super thick - 1.2mm, strong, sticks well, and really pliable.
I get the 4" wide 3m film for 25$ at the auto parts store and wrap top of top tube/ bottom of down tube/ sides of the stays, it saves against minor scratched & scuffs so the bike looks better , I've wrapped 3 bikes now so I think its worth the hassle cuz I got pretty good money for my 5.5 when i sold it
a mixture of 25% alcohol & water will help you stretch it around corners, water & soap will help you stick it down to get the bubbles out
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Another option is Racers Tape/Helicopter Tape. Available 14mil thick, so offers pretty good protection.
That Effeto tape sounds interesting too. 8mil/0.2mm tape but with a 1mm thick viscoelastic backing for some shock absorption.
My experience with any kind of tape that's thick enough to actually do something for small impacts is that, because it's thick, it snags on stuff and dirt collects around the edges. It ends up looking like shit pretty quickly.
I also find that some bike brands need protection more than others. My Norco scratches super easily, but my Propain's paint has been pretty bulletproof. And Transition's paint flakes off if you even look at it too hard.
This is why I wish more frames came in raw finishes.
Anyone have experience with steel single-pivot full squish bikes a la Starling, etc? Any good, or are you just paying boutique prices for a heavy bike with less than great suspension?
I'm coming from a 2016 Canfield Riot that I like a lot, except it's a bit small for steep and chunky trails. Currently riding in western Washington, good chance of moving to Roxtar's area soon though.
kittyhump.com - Fund Max, Cat Appreciation, Bike
Air down the fork entirely, leave the pump connected (to depress the valve), compress it manually, see if the lowers slide back down under their own weight. If not, move them up and down along the stanchions and see if you feel any spot with more resistance.
I had a set of Mezzer Pro lowers with tight bushings and it was bad enough that I couldn't pull them off the stanchions without serious force. The fork felt like shit with noticeable resistance to get into its travel. I swapped another set of lowers just to confirm the bushing issue and the damn things would fall off the stanchions under their own weight when I let go of them.
Note: the above if for Manitou, with RS you could remove the airspring assembly entirely. The goal is not to have anything working against the lowers moving along the stanchions other than a potentially tight bushing.
"Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise
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