Ask the experts

[Roxtar]

Making a few tweaks to my bleed process for shimano, just pushing my ocd and neuroticism a little further….

At someone’s suggestion, or something , I picked up this yellow piece.

Attachment 459290

Which in theory, I get, and looks like it’s gonna work great , much better than faffing with wrench. BUT, at some point you have to replace the original bleed nipple, and in doing so and removing the yellow piece aren’t you just reintroducing air?

Cheers folks.

Yes, you will. Guaranteed.
It's a stupid idea from Shimano (it happens from time to time). That is truly a tool without a purpose. The first time I saw one, I thought, "How cool." Then I realized what you realized.
Shimano brakes are so easy to bleed, adding this to the mix is just silly.
Hope you didn't waste much $

[climberevan]

A grinder is a very useful power tool for a homeowner. Even a HF one will prob outlast you.

[volklpowdermaniac]

Yes, you will. Guaranteed.
It's a stupid idea from Shimano (it happens from time to time). That is truly a tool without a purpose. The first time I saw one, I thought, "How cool." Then I realized what you realized.
Shimano brakes are so easy to bleed, adding this to the mix is just silly.
Hope you didn't waste much $

Ha just like 10 bucks, now it’s in the random tools bin
Lol.

Anyway, yeah that syringe is great

[Spencer123]

We are picking up a new small size Hightower frame to build up for my wife.

The stock build comes with the steerer tube cut to 7 inches exactly, 44 mm offset. We have a great deal on a lyrik ultimate that has a 6.75 inch steerer tube and is 42 mm offset.

Am I crazy to think with a low stack height stem and higher riser bars if needed we can make this work and have a similar feel as the stock build?

Also, hoping that going from a 44mm offset to 42 mm is somewhat negligible but would love to find out now if I am wrong before I buy it!

Thanks!!

edit: looks like SC puts 15 mm of spacers under thier stock build stem which is 48 mm stack. Our steerer is 8 mm short. So it seems like if we do a stem with a stack of 40 we are basically back to the stock Spacer set-up, and can reduce from 15 mm of spacers if needed but should fit through the headtube etc...?

[toast2266]

We are picking up a new small size Hightower frame to build up for my wife.

The stock build comes with the steerer tube cut to 7 inches exactly, 44 mm offset. We have a great deal on a lyrik ultimate that has a 6.75 inch steerer tube and is 42 mm offset.

Am I crazy to think with a low stack height stem and higher riser bars if needed we can make this work and have a similar feel as the stock build?

Also, hoping that going from a 44mm offset to 42 mm is somewhat negligible but would love to find out now if I am wrong before I buy it!

Thanks!!

Only issue would be if the shorter steerer isn't long enough for the headtube + headset + stem. I'd bet it's fine.

Offset difference will be essentially unnoticeable. You can get the grips where she wants them with the stem and bar. Which obviously is more difficult / expensive to swap than spacers, but you can get pretty much the same results.

If she's picky about bar height, consider whether it's cheaper to swap handlebars or just buy a fork with a longer steerer.

[Spencer123]

Thanks for the input! We are needing to buy a stem and bars either way so the savings in the fork might still make sense since we can plan ahead for it I am thinking.

Only issue would be if the shorter steerer isn't long enough for the headtube + headset + stem. I'd bet it's fine.

Offset difference will be essentially unnoticeable. You can get the grips where she wants them with the stem and bar. Which obviously is more difficult / expensive to swap than spacers, but you can get pretty much the same results.

If she's picky about bar height, consider whether it's cheaper to swap handlebars or just buy a fork with a longer steerer.

[jm2e]

1. Screw bleed Cup into lever.
2. Fill with oil
3. Open bleed nipple at caliper.
4. Let it dribble until clean oil comes out. Rag for less mess
5. Close nipple. Remove bleed cup from lever. Clean oil off caliper.
I’ve never known a hose or bottom syringe technique to be any benefit. Am I missing something here?


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[XtrPickels]

1. Screw bleed Cup into lever.
2. Fill with oil
3. Open bleed nipple at caliper.
4. Let it dribble until clean oil comes out. Rag for less mess
5. Close nipple. Remove bleed cup from lever. Clean oil off caliper.
I’ve never known a hose or bottom syringe technique to be any benefit. Am I missing something here?


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Pressurizing the system with the lever and a closed bleed port, then quickly cracking and closing the bleed port can help expel some additional bubbles from the caliper.

Also, a few flicks of the lever with a closed bleed port can pop a few more out of the lever body.

[Roxtar]

1. Screw bleed Cup into lever.
2. Fill with oil
3. Open bleed nipple at caliper.
4. Let it dribble until clean oil comes out. Rag for less mess
5. Close nipple. Remove bleed cup from lever. Clean oil off caliper.
I’ve never known a hose or bottom syringe technique to be any benefit. Am I missing something here?

What I don't like about pure gravity bleeds is that you're fighting the natural tendency of air to rise in liquid.
This is especially bad in rear brakes with less direct downward pressure and more ups and downs in the hose routing. Each upward arch is a place for bubbles to stay while letting the fluid pass.
That's why I prefer a bottom up method. (yeah, I said it)

[joetron]

If the fluid is bad, a gravity bleed (or light pull on a syringe) is best to clear the dirty fluid out through the caliper instead of pushing it through the lever.
After clean fluid starts to come out of the caliper, I like to reverse direction with a syringe (new clean fluid) push through to help clear any stubborn bubbles that might be clinging in the caliper, line or lever.
Using the cup plunger like an actual plunger is a good way to create a little negative pressure at the lever and pull stubborn bubbles out.
I’m not a fan of lever flicking. It turns big bubbles into small bubbles -which are harder to extract. Smooth lever pulls followed by some plunger action with the lever open and then also engaged is my technique.


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[Velomayniac]

I'm trying to find a cheap but strong rear wheel for dh. 12x157mm, HG freehub

Will Race Face Aeffect work? Race face says for Enduro, but they weigh about the same as some DH wheels, and some of the reviews I've seen say they are strong. I can't find Spank or DT Swiss cheap dh wheels anywhere in stock.

[Andeh]

It's a full wheelset, but the Reserve 30 HD AL is in stock. Their DH version has i9 1/1 hubs, either XD or HG, and 6-bolt. 29, 27.5, or MX. $700 for the set with bomber warranty.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Ok so I actually think I do really like my bike still. It turns great and it's playful. I just need to sack up and buy a proper fork. That has to be it. I checked my sag and it was somehow at like 15%.....like somehow the fork GAINED air. Then I removed some air and tried to sag it to 30% but it like is so inconsistent I get a different sag every time I compress the fork. Then I can't even get close to using full travel with only like 45psi in it. It's a fucking piece of shit and honestly it maybe was a bunk fork since day one.

[MegaStoke]

Ok so I actually think I do really like my bike still. It turns great and it's playful. I just need to sack up and buy a proper fork. That has to be it. I checked my sag and it was somehow at like 15%.....like somehow the fork GAINED air. Then I removed some air and tried to sag it to 30% but it like is so inconsistent I get a different sag every time I compress the fork. Then I can't even get close to using full travel with only like 45psi in it. It's a fucking piece of shit and honestly it maybe was a bunk fork since day one.

Have you tried servicing it? My 2022 Zeb was utter trash until I did a lower/ air spring service.

[toast2266]

Have you tried servicing it? My 2022 Zeb was utter trash until I did a lower/ air spring service.

That, and at least with the 38, I've found it's pretty sensitive to small pressure changes. Enough so a ~20 degree (F) temperature swing makes a fairly noticeable difference in how the fork rides. I don't remember the zeb being quite that sensitive, but I didn't have as much time on it.

[Dee Hubbs]

Have you tried servicing it? My 2022 Zeb was utter trash until I did a lower/ air spring service.

For my high end clients I will service a brand new fork before they even ride it. The airspring usually has enough lube on it for for 10 forks. The excessive lube I'll pull off, that lube goes on the wiper seals. A brand new fork will feel 100% better without the extra Slick Honey/SRAM Buttr on the airspring.

From the factory:


How it should look:

[XXX-er]

After the servicing the pressures were about right for 165 lbs but dropping 10-15lbs really softened up the ride without the fork sinking into its travel which is good and so I need to play with it more

they also fixed my leaking roxshok supre delux

[Velomayniac]

Interesting. I really want to learn how to work on suspension.

[Rossymcg]

Ok so I actually think I do really like my bike still. It turns great and it's playful. I just need to sack up and buy a proper fork. That has to be it. I checked my sag and it was somehow at like 15%.....like somehow the fork GAINED air. Then I removed some air and tried to sag it to 30% but it like is so inconsistent I get a different sag every time I compress the fork. Then I can't even get close to using full travel with only like 45psi in it. It's a fucking piece of shit and honestly it maybe was a bunk fork since day one.

turn it in to a coil if it's truly fucked peeps I know claim its "ride changing" I'm not sure about that but it's an option

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[grskier]

That, and at least with the 38, I've found it's pretty sensitive to small pressure changes. Enough so a ~20 degree (F) temperature swing makes a fairly noticeable difference in how the fork rides. I don't remember the zeb being quite that sensitive, but I didn't have as much time on it.

The ideal gas Law PV = nRT.
Pressure times Volume is equal to a few Constants times temperature


If your temp goes up and down it will change the pressure because your working with basically a fixed volume.

Temps will make a HUGDe difference


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[Andeh]

Ok so I actually think I do really like my bike still. It turns great and it's playful. I just need to sack up and buy a proper fork. That has to be it. I checked my sag and it was somehow at like 15%.....like somehow the fork GAINED air. Then I removed some air and tried to sag it to 30% but it like is so inconsistent I get a different sag every time I compress the fork. Then I can't even get close to using full travel with only like 45psi in it. It's a fucking piece of shit and honestly it maybe was a bunk fork since day one.

Even if you pay full retail for something absurd like an Ohlins 38, you're still paying less than what it would cost to change bikes. Hang on to the dumpster fork though, and pair it with the frame in a year or 3 when you get upgraditis though.

[toast2266]

The ideal gas Law PV = nRT.
Pressure times Volume is equal to a few Constants times temperature


If your temp goes up and down it will change the pressure because your working with basically a fixed volume.

Temps will make a HUGDe difference


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Yup.

Although I find that the difference in the 38 is more noticeable than any other fork I've ridden recently (including the 36, 34, and lyrik). The other forks I can kinda gloss over the changes and just deal with it. The 38 I find that I actually need to throw a pump on it pretty regularly to keep it feeling good.

[Velomayniac]

It's a full wheelset, but the Reserve 30 HD AL is in stock. Their DH version has i9 1/1 hubs, either XD or HG, and 6-bolt. 29, 27.5, or MX. $700 for the set with bomber warranty.

Damn those look nice and that's a great price. Thanks for the recommendation. That's a little more than I planned on spending, but seems worth it for quality wheels with a serious warranty and 50% crash replacement. Only problem is I'm not currently able to afford that. I hope they are available in a month lol. I'll probably go this route now that you introduced me, unless I find a ridiculous deal on single wheels in the meantime.

I've been trying to find super deals, and trying to piece together a new wheel set for a little over $500, possibly with two different wheels. These seem like a good middle ground between cheapos and the more expensive wheels

[NuclearNachos21]

for push on grips, do you guys use iso alcohol or an air compressor. seen tons of people use alcohol without issues but recently saw some things about avoiding it and just using the compressor so not sure


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[MegaStoke]

for push on grips, do you guys use iso alcohol or an air compressor. seen tons of people use alcohol without issues but recently saw some things about avoiding it and just using the compressor so not sure


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Isopropyl for foam grips, air for non-porous ones.