Ask the experts

[skaredshtles]

<snip>
I really liked the feel of my last fork which was a 36 with a coil conversion. This seems to fill that niche? I'm guessing this fucker is heavy as hell though.

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3613751/

Weight, David, is a feminist issue.

[Andeh]

It's the fork.

And also probably 25# oversprung in the rear.

[grskier]

Might be worth buying and servicing/swapping out airspring?

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3631284/

I really liked the feel of my last fork which was a 36 with a coil conversion. This seems to fill that niche? I'm guessing this fucker is heavy as hell though.

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3613751/

Um, just a heads up, one is 27.5 and one is 29

[east or bust]

He's referring to the Top Cap Assembly, not the Air Top Cap (which can be hammered off with the head of your shock pump).

Whoops, yea, should know not to post on the before morning coffee



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[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Um, just a heads up, one is 27.5 and one is 29

The 38 is actually a 29/27.5+ size.

[garuda]

The 38 is actually a 29/27.5+ size.

If that guy's for real selling that fork for $100, I would definitely grab it and update the air spring. Especially if he says there's no issue with the damper. Strange price, so it makes you wonder what's up.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

If that guy's for real selling that fork for $100, I would definitely grab it and update the air spring. Especially if he says there's no issue with the damper. Strange price, so it makes you wonder what's up.

He hasn't been a member very long and the price is suspect. He claims it's just hanging around in his garage. He lives close enough that I would only meet him in person and look at the fork with my own eyes before paying.

[Eluder]

Anyone ever get a fork back from a rebuild with the air spring top cap stupid tight? Got my 38 back from Fox and I swear they put 50Nm on this thing. Spec is 25Nm I believe. Cannot budge it with an admittedly flimsy flat box wrench and don't see the proper chamferless socket will be easier given how thin the wrench flats on the top cap are. Annoying, never had a problem getting top caps off to change volume spacers before.

A proper socket with a small extension so you can apply even down pressure is key and will definitely be way easier than box wrench, like not even close.

[climberevan]

FYI, one can grind a regular socket so that it, almost magically, morphs into "the proper chamferless socket". And yes, the amount of torque one can apply with one of those while pressing down is impressive, even on the stupid 2mm tall flats.

[g_man80]

WTF, $100 for a factory 38 with clean stanchions!? Buy it and give it a try. If you don’t like it, I’m sure you could get around $600 for it. Still, price seems suspicious to me.

Edit: the $100 price includes shipping! The price has got to be a typo, right?

[Velomayniac]

You can just use a 92 wide BB and pull the center sleeve.
OR
Shimano XT BB-MT800-PC Press Fit Bottom Bracket - BB107
Manufacturer Part Number: IBBMT800PC
OR
RaceFace EXI BB107 Bottom Bracket: 41mm ID x 107mm Shell x 24mm Spindle, Double Row Bearing, External Seal.
Manufacturer Part Number: BB19BB10410724
OR
Wheels Manufacturing PF41 ABEC-3 Fat Bike Bottom Bracket for 24mm Spindle Cranks (fits 105mm to 132mm shell)
Manufacturer Part Number: BB86-FAT-BB

thank you. Race Face and Shimano XT BB are both easy to find.

any downsides to not running that center sleeve on a regular pf92 bb?

[NuclearNachos21]

Pretty sure that $100 fork is just a scam, would ask him if he can meet up and see how he reacts.


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[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Pretty sure that $100 fork is just a scam, would ask him if he can meet up and see how he reacts.


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Yep. I said I would meet in person with cash and crickets so far. I bet he meant to put Boulder, CO and put Boulder, MT by accident lol.

[beaterdit]

Listing's gone, scam.

FYI, one can grind a regular socket so that it, almost magically, morphs into "the proper chamferless socket". And yes, the amount of torque one can apply with one of those while pressing down is impressive, even on the stupid 2mm tall flats.

This is what I have in my box. Works like a charm.

[Powder Ho]

Anyone tried the Tru Tune fork insert? Seems comparable to the RUNT. I ordered it to try and dial in my fork, I wanted to use up my bike allowance for the year.😀

[volklpowdermaniac]

Making a few tweaks to my bleed process for shimano, just pushing my ocd and neuroticism a little further….

At someone’s suggestion, or something , I picked up this yellow piece.



Which in theory, I get, and looks like it’s gonna work great , much better than faffing with wrench. BUT, at some point you have to replace the original bleed nipple, and in doing so and removing the yellow piece aren’t you just reintroducing air?

Cheers folks.

[XXX-er]

I need to bleed the sram's on my SC , Ideally I want to be able to bleed Shimano as well, so what bleed kit do i want , there is a lot of stuff on Amazon ??

[gramboh]

FYI, one can grind a regular socket so that it, almost magically, morphs into "the proper chamferless socket". And yes, the amount of torque one can apply with one of those while pressing down is impressive, even on the stupid 2mm tall flats.

Thanks, this does make sense, pushing down versus just trying to torque sideways with a thin box wrench. Don’t have a grinder so I’ll have to find someone. Might just beg the bike shop to crack it loose for me this time.

Just odd I’ve never had issue with the thin box wrenches on 40’s, 36’s, old Pikes or even these exact 38’s as they came from the factory. It’s just since this rebuild the top cap is on so tight.

[XXX-er]

I forget exactly where i ran into it but i am sure it was a top cap, I remember thinking about needing to knock the Chamfer off the bottom of a normal socket to grab a nut or cap by running it up against the side of a grinding wheel which they tell you NOT to do in grade 8 industrial arts

wtf did they call it industrial arts ?

[rideit]

I need to bleed the sram's on my SC , Ideally I want to be able to bleed Shimano as well, so what bleed kit do i want , there is a lot of stuff on Amazon ??

You need two, the different oils will contaminate each other.

[John_B]

Making a few tweaks to my bleed process for shimano, just pushing my ocd and neuroticism a little further….

At someone’s suggestion, or something , I picked up this yellow piece.



Which in theory, I get, and looks like it’s gonna work great , much better than faffing with wrench. BUT, at some point you have to replace the original bleed nipple, and in doing so and removing the yellow piece aren’t you just reintroducing air?

Cheers folks.

Please report back on that thing. I'm highly intrigued since I seem to be too hamfisted to bleed my brakes without an occasional mineral oil blowout.

[volklpowdermaniac]

Please report back on that thing. I'm highly intrigued since I seem to be too hamfisted to bleed my brakes without an occasional mineral oil blowout.

Ha! Me too!

So I didn’t end up using it, but I did use the new shimano bleed syringe(new to me anyways old ones I’ve bought def didn’t have th8is-> which has a new little metal male piece wedged into end of tubing , it “clicks” into the bleed nipple and is SOOOO MUCH nicer to use, don’t have to use the little plastic hose clamp to keep it on nipple while trying to use wrench, it really just stays on there…. Seen at edge of tubing here.

https://cambriabike.com/products/shi...xoClsgQAvD_BwE


Maybe it has always existed, I’ve just been buying the syringe that comes with the bleed cup seen here, which doesn’t have the metal male piece

Seen here

https://www.incycle.com/products/shi...RoCnRcQAvD_BwE

Having said all that - my bleed tonight sucked. Hanging the bike upright to try and salvage it, but may try again tomorrow night.

[singlesline]

Thanks, this does make sense, pushing down versus just trying to torque sideways with a thin box wrench. Don’t have a grinder so I’ll have to find someone. Might just beg the bike shop to crack it loose for me this time.

Just odd I’ve never had issue with the thin box wrenches on 40’s, 36’s, old Pikes or even these exact 38’s as they came from the factory. It’s just since this rebuild the top cap is on so tight.

Well you don't *need* a grinder. Suitable sandpaper (or files) should do OK if you've got time. Could probably also just take a hacksaw to the socket near the end--might be the quickest option as long as it is a cheapo socket and a decent blade.

[SchralphMacchio]

occasional mineral oil blowout.

I’m too careless to secure everything in place and leave enough room around the bikestand - lots of fun bumping into the bike or rack while injecting from the fork and getting mineral oil all over your head!

Truth be told I don’t have the patience to get myself a solid bleed; combining that with cheap tools/bleed kit I always end up disappointed and usually just end up taking it to the shop later. I think I need to up my bleed kit and bleed game …

[Eluder]

Thanks, this does make sense, pushing down versus just trying to torque sideways with a thin box wrench. Don’t have a grinder so I’ll have to find someone. Might just beg the bike shop to crack it loose for me this time.

Just odd I’ve never had issue with the thin box wrenches on 40’s, 36’s, old Pikes or even these exact 38’s as they came from the factory. It’s just since this rebuild the top cap is on so tight.

Park Tool sells fairly inexpensive flat sockets. I have never used the park ones, but they look fine. All of mine are ground sockets or boujee alloy ones.