Ask the experts

[Jtlange]

I was going to post this in the Runt thread, but thought I'd get more feedback here:

Last year I started converting my Transition Sentinel to be strictly for bike park use, all coil, heavier tires etc. I put a Smashpot in my DVO Onyx and have been very happy with the results, but at about 2700 grams Im starting to think its too heavy and bit overkill for how I ride. I'll do advanced trails, but Im not a pro.

I have fully bought into the benefits of the mid stroke support of a coil system, and starting to explore other options that provide good mid stroke support but in a lighter setup. Honestly, id rather take 600 grams out of the fork, and add that weight in the form of tire inserts or something.

Seems like the DSD Runt is the perfect option for what I am looking for, however it also looks like the Manitou Mezzer provides the same functionality without having to convert the fork. Anyone have experience with both? Should I just get a Mezzer and make this a lot easier?

Unfortunately, buying a Runt is hard right now. I emailed Diaz a while ago and he says hes trying to make more, but is unsure when he will basically. By that logic, a Mezzer will be easier.

Side note: Please make more Runts. I want one.

[jdadour]

Unfortunately, buying a Runt is hard right now. I emailed Diaz a while ago and he says hes trying to make more, but is unsure when he will basically. By that logic, a Mezzer will be easier.

Side note: Please make more Runts. I want one.

Yeah, Runt availability is definitely informing my decision. Mezzer might be the move. I am very intrigued by the reviews im reading on the Lyrik, and think that it would be a great setup with the Runt, but I'd like to get something sooner rather than later.

[Velomayniac]

Anyone here bought from Merlin Cycles?

[Jtlange]

Yeah, Runt availability is definitely informing my decision. Mezzer might be the move. I am very intrigued by the reviews im reading on the Lyrik, and think that it would be a great setup with the Runt, but I'd like to get something sooner rather than later.

Honestly, I think the new Rockshox stuff is really good just with the air spring. I ran a coil for a long time in the fork and I am not missing it on my Charger 3 Zeb.

[g_man80]

Anyone here bought from Merlin Cycles?

Merlin Cycles of the UK? Yep, I order from them a few times. Easy purchase and relatively fast shipping.

[Velomayniac]

Merlin Cycles of the UK? Yep, I order from them a few times. Easy purchase and relatively fast shipping.

thank you very much for the info.

[Andeh]

Any suggestions for how to stop bearings from migrating in a linkage, beyond green Loctite bearing compound?

Background: I put a Cascade link on my Levo, and have noticed the rear most bearings of the link (where they connect to the seat stay) shift sideways in the link. I'm not sure if the root cause is frame flex, alignment of the stays, or bore tolerance on Cascade's part, but I'd like the damn bearings to stay in place. I pulled out the link, popped the bearings out, wiped everything down carefully, then put a liberal amount of bearing compound in the link bores. Pressed the bearings in and reassembled the frame, and let it sit a few days before riding. After a single ride, one or both visibly shifted.

[g_man80]

I don’t have any suggestions, but has Cascade offered any solutions or explanations?

[Boissal]

It's crazy the bearings have room to move in the first place no? Thinking about all the frames I've had the bearing always have something contacting them on both sides so lateral movement is not an option. Wouldn't that situation mean you have unsupported sections of whatever goes through the bearing (axles, pivots, whatever)? Seems weird as hell, I'd think wider bearings would be needed...

[Eluder]

The bores seem a little oversized. It doesn't seem like this is an issue with the factory links, but they are forged.

Transition has implemented snap rings to prevent this... I wonder if they could do something like that.

[Andeh]

Yeah, I'm really puzzled. Cascade didn't have any advice. The stays sandwich around the link, typical Horst link style. The bearing sits in the link, with a sleeve washer on both sides (covers part of the outer seal and goes down halfway into the inner race). The washers are identical both sides (Cascade just has you use the original Spec. washers). There's an outer axle style bolt that goes through the bearing/washers that has another bolt on the opposite side. The bearings have a tendency to slip away from the inner lip of the link and migrate outward. Or another way of putting it is that the bearing stays centered in between the fingers of the stay, but the SS moves outboard relative to the link, because there's a slight gap between the fingers of the stay and the link.

https://media.specialized.com/suppor...AL-ENGLISH.pdf
page 39 has a schematic

[toast2266]

Is everything aligned well? Like, when the link is installed on the front triangle and the yoke, do the chainstays line up with the link exactly where they should?

[Eluder]

Any suggestions for how to stop bearings from migrating in a linkage, beyond green Loctite bearing compound?
I pulled out the link, popped the bearings out, wiped everything down carefully, then put a liberal amount of bearing compound in the link bores. Pressed the bearings in and reassembled the frame, and let it sit a few days before riding. After a single ride, one or both visibly shifted.

What Green Loctite did you use? They sell a primer/accelerator that helps with curing that I have had good luck with on early Kona PF BB's.

[Andeh]

What Green Loctite did you use? They sell a primer/accelerator that helps with curing that I have had good luck with on early Kona PF BB's.

609. I'll look for some primer - that was mentioned on the bottle, and I'm willing to try anything at this point.

Is everything aligned well? Like, when the link is installed on the front triangle and the yoke, do the chainstays line up with the link exactly where they should?

Yes, although when I was fitting it back up and the Loctite was still wet, one of the bearings slipped and I had to pull it off, press it back in, and then fit it up again.

[carlh]

Oval vs round chainring
New bike came with a 32t chainring and I am a 30t guy so I have a bailout when I bonk so I need a new one. Shimano cranks and chain. Do I buy an slx because they are cheap or go for an absolute black oval? I’ve never ridden an oval or had issues with round but I am curious and it seems like it might be worth trying.

[Tailwind]

Oval is awesome on technical climbs but outside of that I don’t notice much of a difference. Essentially I find with ovals that I’m less likely to get “hung up” on techie climbs when my pedals are at 12/6.

If you’re spinning smoother climbs I wouldn’t bother.

Oval vs round chainring
New bike came with a 32t chainring and I am a 30t guy so I have a bailout when I bonk so I need a new one. Shimano cranks and chain. Do I buy an slx because they are cheap or go for an absolute black oval? I’ve never ridden an oval or had issues with round but I am curious and it seems like it might be worth trying.

[XXX-er]

Oval vs round chainring
New bike came with a 32t chainring and I am a 30t guy so I have a bailout when I bonk so I need a new one. Shimano cranks and chain. Do I buy an slx because they are cheap or go for an absolute black oval? I’ve never ridden an oval or had issues with round but I am curious and it seems like it might be worth trying.

I live in a valley so its all uphill which is harder on 1x so I did exactly the same thing going 2 teeth smaller on the absolute black

I could feel the 2 teeth smaller but I honestly couldn't really tell the difference of oval vs round , I would need to test 2 rings that are the same size but one of them Oval back to back but i suspect you could just save your money and go round

[Boissal]

The only difference the oval has made for me is eliminating knee pain on long mega steep grinds. The pedaling didn't get easier per se but a bit smoother with more homogeneous power delivery and my knees appreciate it. I think with the round ring I was pulling a bit harder on the clips at the "dead spot" in the spinning cycle to maintain my cadence. Eventually my knees would get pissed. It's really subtle, I didn't notice anything when I first switched but got through a bunch of 2000'+ dirt road slogs without any discomfort and started believing. I replaced my trail bike last year, the first ride with the new steed was with a round ring and I got this weird tension inside my right knee. I got worse on the next ride, both my patellar tendons started cringing a bit right below the kneecap. I swapped back to an Absolute ring and the knees are fine again. I run my cleats pretty far forward and have a tendency to pull up when it gets steep, I think the oval mitigates that enough to avoid irritating the join. In the end it's well worth the $80+ of these stupid ovals...

[Spencer123]

Second the oval ring for knee pain. I thought it would be a gimmick but it definitely helped on long steep grinds. Beware they seem to wear out way quicker than my basic round Sram aluminum ones, so the cost can add up.

[jackstraw]

Good to know that oval can help with knee pain.

[carlh]

Realized I need a 104bcd not a direct mount so not sure if that exists. What happens if I run a Shimano 12 chain on a normal narrow wide ring?

[climberevan]

No bueno on that combo. It will wear the ring all crazy and won't mesh well. But there are plenty of aftermarket rings with the Shimano 12 tooth profile.

[SchralphMacchio]

I’ve found that oval rings make a much bigger difference on a hardtail, where you don’t have an active suspension compensating with chain tension. They increased traction and smoothed torque output on both my hardtail and FS bike, but the “wow” for me was on my hardtail.

[Eluder]

I’ve found that oval rings make a much bigger difference on a hardtail, where you don’t have an active suspension compensating with chain tension. They increased traction and smoothed torque output on both my hardtail and FS bike, but the “wow” for me was on my hardtail.

100% agree, I only bother on the hardtail anymore.

[Andeh]

I think ovals are a clipless thing too. I've tried them as a flat pedal rider and found the feel to be really weird, especially standing up. Plus they're noisy as shit and wear out fast. I've spoken to other flat pedal riders who feel the same way.