Wondering how wide a tire I can put on my wife’s wheel. The wheels are 700 and the rims are Alexrim 1019. The current tires are 700x28, but would like to go wider if I could. I will measure clearance, but wondering how wide I can go with that rim. Thanks
For the nerds (or safety conscious) there’s a chart for such questions:
40mm tire can fit on a rim down to 17mm width. I assume a 1019 rim is 19mm width, but it should be printed on the rim somewhere, like 622x19, or 559x21, etc. with the first number being rim diameter and second being internal width.
Thanks I was assuming it was 19 as well, will double check and see if I can find the designation
Bottomed out my shock this weekend (DPS Factory on a Spur). There seems to be a fair amount of oil on the stanchion( more than tge pic really shows). What should I do before I ride it again besides run a bit higher pressure? Does it need more oil? A new seal?
Shock is new (2nd ride). I kept riding for an hour and a half after bottoming out and it seemed fine.
Thanks.
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Bottoming out a shock shouldn't hurt it. A bit of oil/residue is also normal on a new shock. Wipe it down, take a few more rides, and if there is a bunch more oil, then maybe you have a problem.
Trying to get my wife into a full suspension 29er (her preference) with a dropper post and single chain ring, all of which is a big upgrade from her current hardtail. But I don't know shit about bikes or changes since 2018. Anybody have any thoughts about this bike? 2.2k price seems at or under similar models on Pinkbike. (In fact this bike is listed on Pinkbike for 2450)
https://helena.craigslist.org/bik/d/...604787597.html
Do you want an XC race bike for her, because this is an XC race bike with a kinda crappy dropper post on it. Epics are great bikes for their purpose but adding the complexity of a brain shock to your life is not worth it unless you are racing, IMO.
The price is fair but maybe a little high. A quick scan on PB confirms the suspicion that EPIC owners think there shit is worth more than it is.
a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort
Formerly Rludes025
^^ Pictures look like an NX drive train. I don't think this is a good price right now -- It's definitely a buyer's market for used MTBs. I think you'll do better with some patience.
Check out FB Marketplace in the Bozeman area. There has been a lot of high end bikes of all sizes for good deals lately. The hipsters are giving up I guess.
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[QUOTE=hick;6858122]The hipsters are giving up I guess.
They probably all bought new Yetis!
a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort
Formerly Rludes025
That bike also has the brain shock deal which i hear can be unreliable. And pretty steep HTA.
Trying to stay in that ~2500 range? For like 3000-3500 you can get a pretty decent new full suspension aluminum bike. Or maybe less, lot of new bike sales going on right now, probably worth checking out some shops.
[mention]yeahman [/mention] this might be a decent deal? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...ibextid=6ojiHh
[QUOTE=Eluder;6858128] This is likely. An absurd amount of high end Yetis for sale. One even here in Livingston! We’re getting hip!!
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Anyone have experience running an angleset? How much of a pain in the ass is it? Does it hold up to abuse? How radically did it alter handling? Did it achieve what you were going for?
I ran a works components one in a previous bike. It made it slacker but also shortened the reach noticeably. Function was fine but at the end of the day a new bike was better.
Aye makes sense
I've messed with the angle cup in my Specialized a bit, which does the same thing as a normal angleset, but is more foolproof (since the frame aligns it). I've heard keeping a normal angleset aligned during install can be a bit of a headache if you're really anal. I've heard that Works anglesets are more durable than Cane Creeks. The 1 degree change is pretty noticeable. In terms of did it do what I wanted, yes and no. In addition to slacking the front out (what I wanted), it also shortens the reach (didn't love that), steepens seat angle (liked that), and dropped both stack and BB (didn't like that). So it kinda depends what you're hoping to achieve. I ended up running 10mm longer air shaft in the fork instead because I was willing to trade slacker seat angle for higher stack and BB on this particular bike.
Yes.
Depends if you are picky about stack height and how much you extra room you have on the steer tube, because if you are running ZS cups you might have to go to an EC depending how much angle you are adding. Going from ZS/ZS to EC/EC might not work for your existing fork if you didn’t plan ahead and leave an extra 10-15mm of spacers!
The biggest pain in the ass I had was that the bearing cartridges that Works Anglesets use are basically only available from the UK. My first -1 ZS/EC angleset ended up getting a siezed bearing (upper cartridge), I couldn’t find any domestic sources but got a cartridge from a mag, promptly and embarrassingly lost that tiny envelope, so I bought a -2 EC/EC from works and that one has been rock solid.
Yes it achieved what I was going after, which was getting more years out of my Gen 1 Bronson frame that I’m still riding today because I can’t justify the cost of a new bike.
Agreed on all of the above. What I did to compensate for this on a -2 headset was to bump the fork length by 10mm and run a negative rise stem (basically just flipped over like a 6 degree stem). It looks a little funky but my hands were closer to where they were before the swap.
_______________________________________________
"Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.
I'll be there." ... Andy Campbell
Running a 1.5* Works Comp on mine and a 1* on wife's Offerings. Installation is somewhat stressful as you only have guesstimation that it's lined up perfectly. Apparently, I got them right because there are no handling issues. As expected, it just feels like the bike has a slacker head tube.
Or steeper if you installed it wrong.![]()
I was going to post this in the Runt thread, but thought I'd get more feedback here:
Last year I started converting my Transition Sentinel to be strictly for bike park use, all coil, heavier tires etc. I put a Smashpot in my DVO Onyx and have been very happy with the results, but at about 2700 grams Im starting to think its too heavy and bit overkill for how I ride. I'll do advanced trails, but Im not a pro.
I have fully bought into the benefits of the mid stroke support of a coil system, and starting to explore other options that provide good mid stroke support but in a lighter setup. Honestly, id rather take 600 grams out of the fork, and add that weight in the form of tire inserts or something.
Seems like the DSD Runt is the perfect option for what I am looking for, however it also looks like the Manitou Mezzer provides the same functionality without having to convert the fork. Anyone have experience with both? Should I just get a Mezzer and make this a lot easier?
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