a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort
Formerly Rludes025
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=1138
Just dug this up. Note that It doesn’t mention the DHX. Seems a little incomplete.
a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort
Formerly Rludes025
Riddle me this one:
12 sp SLX on a Stumpy EVO shifts perfect with the clutch off. With the clutch on it shifts perfect in gears 2-12, will shift onto 1 perfect, but won't shift off of 1. Serviced clutch and replaced shifter cable and housing to no effect.
I gave it one turn to no effect. It feels pretty cranked already. Here's pics of the b-gap and the b screw.
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I’m just going to move the bike. I have other issues with it as well.
I did some deeper google investigatory work the other day and I found 4 examples. Quick googling shows two examples of the DHX2 snapping on the status, with pictures, although I forget if they were status 160 or 140. On pinkbike someone said that the 140 has a longer clevis or whatever, and is more prone. I believe all four examples I read about the other day were all the DHX2. If I recall correctly, one of the posts with pics said all his buddies were snapping their Status’ w/ coils as well, but I don’t know how to confirm that one. Doesn’t seem rare though
definitely incomplete as it does not even mention the Status. Spesh was secretive and weird about the Status for the first two years (like Rossi with their first black ops), so I wonder if that has something do to with that.
I had an XT whose main pivot spring had become so rusty that it would barely move. It's a real bitch to get apart, but you could check it. Def check the B screw too-- they need to be perfect.
Or just send it back to Shimano. They just warrantied an Ultegra Di2 front for for me after it became noisy. It came on a bike I bought used, so obviously I had no receipt.
ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
In 2019 I bought a used bike with an 11 sp X1 RD. I figured I'd just run it until it wore out and then replace. It's still on my bike and shifts dead nuts perfect. I'll also take SRAM's cage lock over Shimano's on/off switch all day every day
Her derailleur doesn't have the handy B-tension indicator on the back, but it seems you're onto something here. I took it back to where I started, backed it off two full turns, then added about a quarter turn. It will shift off the 51t now, though with several seconds of hesitation. Not perfect but good enough. Hopefully it still works out of the stand.
In a classic bike maintenance circular loop, the chain is now so slack in the 10t that I need to take a link out.
Thing is, Canyon says they use a clevis, and on the Spectral 29 they are specific about not recommending clevis/coil.
On the 125 they don’t mention clevis, just says coil is not recommended. «Made for air».
The 125 has something like 27% progression so trying out a coil could be interesting.
But yeah, I’ll check with CC
I am far from a Canyon expert but these picks tell some sort of story. The first is a 2023 Spectral Mullet. The second shows the axis of the shock shaft on a Spectral 125.
Fox calls out the 20/21 Spectral as not compatible. I cant see a difference in the shock mounting, but there must be something...
2023 mullet has a DHX so maybe that is the factor.
Weather it performs well on the suspension design is a different conversation.
I personally really like air shocks for their tunability. Coils are nice as a smaller rider but at the same time the spring weight gaps are often too large when you are small and you have to compromise.
a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort
Formerly Rludes025
Anyone use the Fox Baseframe sleeveless chest guard (or something light and comparable)? I've had a few friends with close calls lately and it's made me wonder if I should start wearing chest protection on certain rides... and as a follow-up, anyone have a hookup so I don't have to pay $180?![]()
Last edited by smmokan; 05-06-2023 at 03:02 PM.
Yeah, so I'm running my Levo with the regular Cascade link (which still increases travel to ~162mm). That's what I'm having issues with the rear-most bearings shifting sideways in. I just pulled apart the link and reinstalled the bearings with Loctite bearing assembly compound, fingers crossed that does it. I suspect that it's mostly a tolerance thing on Cascade's part because when I was reassembling the whole thing, one of the fucking bearings shifted twice while I was torquing the whole thing up before the compound had dried.
The bike does ride better IMO with the link but you have to add a lot of spring rate / pressure to compensate. I'm running a 575# spring and weigh 170 lbs ready to ride. Cascade flat out does not recommend running coil with the link on this bike, even with the added progressivity. I'm going to get one of the new RS big can air shocks (Vivid 2?) whenever that's released to try, because the weight and high starting LR of the Cascade should still make it track really nicely like a coil. I don't get any harsh bottom outs with the Arma and maxed out HBO, but even with the link, it's still not terribly hard to go really deep in the travel. In comparison, I haven't bottomed out my Nomad 6 yet, running similar sag, and it's SD Coil set to have minimal HBO. When I rode my buddy's Levo before I bought mine, it had an X2 on and I had no issue bottoming that out too. I think it's just a moderately progressive bike, and coupled with the weight, it's just not a great candidate for coil.
I got one in the off season sales intending to wear it at the bike park. (Found it on sale at some moto website.) Haven't ridden it to ride yet, but it seems like it will breath pretty well and not feel too constricting. That particular chest guard is definitely baselayer fit, as opposed to some of the other ones you see people wearing over jerseys. I may take off the velcro strap, but will try it with first. I think that's mostly there to hold a plastic strip in place which may act as additional puncture protection.
Tried one on in a shop and it felt great - until I took it off. HUGE pita to get it off and almost thought I was going to rip the seams. The thought of that while sweaty and dirty after a day in the bike park put me off totally.
I bought a POC Oseus VPD Torso instead and v happy with it. Much easier on and off, and the padding is a bit thicker and feels like it reduces impact more (scientifically tested against a few others by slamming my back against a concrete pillar in the shop haha). Used it for a few days in Finale recently and very quickly forgot I was wearing it. A few climbs up to around ~500-600m were totally fine but obviously still a bit warmer than just wearing a bike Tshirt. I like it and would buy again, but will use it primarily for park/shuttle days and leave it at home for long pedal days.
I meant to add the zipper thing. There is a new version (Baseframe Pro with D30 Vest) with a zipper down the side. Even with the zipper, it's not quick to put it on / take it off. I absolutely would NOT get one without a zipper. Leatt makes another similar product that looked good. I just got the Fox because I found it on sale.
Any love for the over-jersey hard guards? I’m going to get some chest protection for park/shuttle days and am heavily leaning toward something from the TLD Rockfight line.
eta: I guess one of them is designed for under jersey use too
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If anyone wants a hardshell pressure suit sort of thing, I've got a couple of them that you can have for the price of shipping. Size medium. One is a THE, one is azonic.
whoops
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