Ask the experts

[Jtlange]

Depends on what kind of speed.
The Ripmo was a faster accelerating bike; perhaps the fastest non-XC bike I've ever ridden. Stomp the pedals and it just takes off. I over forked it with a 170mm Mezzer.

The new Offering rear end is different. It is the best compromise between cush and support I've ever ridden. I'm faster through jank and yet, higher/farther in the air on flow trails. It rules on tech, both up and down. While the Ripmo was a faster climber, the Offering just rolls up technical climbs, staying absolutely glued to the terrain. It kind of reminds me of driving a high articulation 4WD up a tech climb in 4LO - just kind of swallowing the obstacles as it rolls through.

Granted, this is with the Ohlins TTX2 Air shock. This shock takes a really really good rear suspension to another level.

I had a push shock on mine as well with a coiled Fox 36. Its a completely bottomless suspension platform. Its really, really good and you can just sit and spin up tech. I am somehow still significantly faster downhill on the Ripmo. I think its the longer chain stays and it just matches my riding style better.

[Roxtar]

it just matches my riding style better.

That's key

[Roxtar]

At the end of the day I can't REALLY afford a new bike. But I also don't want to keep throwing money at this bike (new fork......maybe what makes me think I don't really like this bike right now) if I will take a loss selling it. At this point I'm not too worried about selling the Gnarvana cheap because I had a substantial deal on it to begin with.

What size are you?
Evil is blowing out some smalls for $6K

Jus sayin...

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Buy the Spire. Sell the fork, rear shock, seatstays, and maybe the wheels off the Gnarvana but keep the frame, drivetrain, cockpit, and brakes. Convert the Gnarvana to a trail pistol. For ~$7.5k total (less after you sell some stuff) you can have both a short travel ripper and a plow pig, and you've still spent less money than some of the gucci 170mm bikes.

Damn dude. You in sales? If not you should be.

[simple]

Nah making a bike geek to compute N+1 is easier than selling Hondas back in the 80s.

[joetron]

Damn dude. You in sales? If not you should be.

Right? That’s a fucking great plan


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[toast2266]

Damn dude. You in sales? If not you should be.

Just doing my part to make sure everyone has more bikes than they actually need. It helps me feel better about my own bloated quiver.

[Tailwind]

I need to rebuild my fox 36… I just remembered I only have a 34mm seal driver.

I assume I can get it to work (using the 34mm with a bigger seal) but I’d love someone to chime in before I take it apart.

[NuclearNachos21]

New forks for $500 CAD? No fucking way!
There are a few brand new ones in the US for $850, would have loved to find one of the el cheapo ones!

probably not going to find find any news ones but depeding on what you're looking for you can score some. currently a slightly used one for 380, new csu+service for 520, or an expert with irt for 390. only issue is the cheap ones are 27.5, a few cheap 29ers pop up but not super often


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[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Buddy at the gym keeps raving about his Propain Sprindrift and the Nukeproof Giga is intriguing. Too many choices.

[simple]

Propain Tyee just announced on Pinkbike. Seems like a good day to order one.

[toast2266]

Buddy at the gym keeps raving about his Propain Sprindrift and the Nukeproof Giga is intriguing. Too many choices.

Both of those seem pretty rad, but neither seems like the sort of thing I'd want to race on. That new Tyee seems a lot more suited for racing while still being bike park capable.

[smmokan]

Anyone have the Kuat NV 2.0 bike rack with a longer wheelbase (1250+) bike? Does it fit OK without the rear tire hanging off the back of the platform?

[toast2266]

Anyone have the Kuat NV 2.0 bike rack with a longer wheelbase (1250+) bike? Does it fit OK without the rear tire hanging off the back of the platform?

I put my Norco Range (1285 wheelbase) on it without issue. The contact point for the rear wheel is definitely all the way at the end of the rack, but it doesn't feel sketchy.

[hick]

Double post
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[hick]

This thread has become like a little crack whore corner. Dealers just peddling bike crack and enabling all the other junkies. No judgement, just need to be careful what one posts that they “need” or are looking for in a bike. I have No business financially even checking in on this thread. I’ll show myself out.


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[XtrPickels]

I need to rebuild my fox 36… I just remembered I only have a 34mm seal driver.

I assume I can get it to work (using the 34mm with a bigger seal) but I’d love someone to chime in before I take it apart.

No insight there, but I have one in Boulder if you're randomly in the area and don't want to buy one.

[XtrPickels]

WTF is up with my headset?

Specialized Crux ~1 year old. Built by a shop, no work on the headset by me until this point.
Headset was "binding" - turns smoothly, no notchiness, but if I lean the bike over while pushing the bars stay straight.
Figured I'd replace the bearings, they felt fine when I pulled them, but it was already apart so I replaced upper and lower anyway.

Put back together and no better.
If I put essentially no preload on the top cap then it moves like I think it should, but anything remotely snug and it feels like I'm turning through glue. For example: my K-Edge steerer tube computer mount moves with very little resistance due to how little pressure the compression bolt is applying.

Am I missing a spacer somewhere? Did something get crushed along the way?
There is no crown race on the carbon fork, which seems odd because I'm used to MTB forks, but it also doesn't seem to need one?

Halp!

[Dee Hubbs]

I need to rebuild my fox 36… I just remembered I only have a 34mm seal driver.

I assume I can get it to work (using the 34mm with a bigger seal) but I’d love someone to chime in before I take it apart.

I would pull the fork do all the cleaning, and them lube the seal lips, and take just your lowers and and seals to your LBS and ask them to wack them in with a seal driver.
Or go to the shop under the premise to ask if you can buy a seal driver (they won’t have one in stock):
“Do you guys sell a 36mm seal driver, I only have a 34 at home? No? So you would need to order one, will you just drive these seals in for me since I’m here with the lowers and seals.”

[Dee Hubbs]

WTF is up with my headset?

Specialized Crux ~1 year old. Built by a shop, no work on the headset by me until this point.
Headset was "binding" - turns smoothly, no notchiness, but if I lean the bike over while pushing the bars stay straight.
Figured I'd replace the bearings, they felt fine when I pulled them, but it was already apart so I replaced upper and lower anyway.

Put back together and no better.
If I put essentially no preload on the top cap then it moves like I think it should, but anything remotely snug and it feels like I'm turning through glue. For example: my K-Edge steerer tube computer mount moves with very little resistance due to how little pressure the compression bolt is applying.

Am I missing a spacer somewhere? Did something get crushed along the way?
There is no crown race on the carbon fork, which seems odd because I'm used to MTB forks, but it also doesn't seem to need one?

Halp!

Not much to add other than it’s normal for a carbon road bike to not need a crown race.

It sounds like the spacers are putting pressure on the upper bearing cover/dust cap.
And you have the compression ring between the bearing and the fork steerer?

https://support.specialized.com/crux...al-information

[Supermoon]

WTF is up with my headset?

Specialized Crux ~1 year old. Built by a shop, no work on the headset by me until this point.
Headset was "binding" - turns smoothly, no notchiness, but if I lean the bike over while pushing the bars stay straight.
Figured I'd replace the bearings, they felt fine when I pulled them, but it was already apart so I replaced upper and lower anyway.

Put back together and no better.
If I put essentially no preload on the top cap then it moves like I think it should, but anything remotely snug and it feels like I'm turning through glue. For example: my K-Edge steerer tube computer mount moves with very little resistance due to how little pressure the compression bolt is applying.

Am I missing a spacer somewhere? Did something get crushed along the way?
There is no crown race on the carbon fork, which seems odd because I'm used to MTB forks, but it also doesn't seem to need one?

Halp!

Is something out of square somewhere? Maybe a seal not fully seated, or bent?

[toast2266]

WTF is up with my headset?

Specialized Crux ~1 year old. Built by a shop, no work on the headset by me until this point.
Headset was "binding" - turns smoothly, no notchiness, but if I lean the bike over while pushing the bars stay straight.
Figured I'd replace the bearings, they felt fine when I pulled them, but it was already apart so I replaced upper and lower anyway.

Put back together and no better.
If I put essentially no preload on the top cap then it moves like I think it should, but anything remotely snug and it feels like I'm turning through glue. For example: my K-Edge steerer tube computer mount moves with very little resistance due to how little pressure the compression bolt is applying.

Am I missing a spacer somewhere? Did something get crushed along the way?
There is no crown race on the carbon fork, which seems odd because I'm used to MTB forks, but it also doesn't seem to need one?

Halp!

I had a similar issue on my enduro. Something seemed to be slightly out of spec. The top dust cover was a bit too "deep" and it would bind when compressed. I put a very thin metal spacer on top of the pressure ring (basically just to hold the top cover ~.2mm higher) and that solved it.

[Eluder]

I had a similar issue on my enduro. Something seemed to be slightly out of spec. The top dust cover was a bit too "deep" and it would bind when compressed. I put a very thin metal spacer on top of the pressure ring (basically just to hold the top cover ~.2mm higher) and that solved it.

Yep, the "Shim Washer" in this WT diagram. Most shops should have something around.

[Andeh]

I had a similar issue on my enduro. Something seemed to be slightly out of spec. The top dust cover was a bit too "deep" and it would bind when compressed. I put a very thin metal spacer on top of the pressure ring (basically just to hold the top cover ~.2mm higher) and that solved it.

Yeah, I noticed that with my Levo also, same solution. Until I got a Chris King Dropset, which didn't need it.

[XtrPickels]

OoooOOoooo.
I think that'll do it. My suspicion is that the top dust seal is binding to against the top of the head tube, so that washer might lift it up just enough.

Dee- all the pieces are there per the exploded diagram, nice to now know that crown races aren't used on carbon forks.