Could anyone recommend a good saddle for gravel riding? Riding in coastal New England now, and a fair amount of summer gravel in Vermont. Thanks!
Could anyone recommend a good saddle for gravel riding? Riding in coastal New England now, and a fair amount of summer gravel in Vermont. Thanks!
Saddles are a tough recommendation since everyone's ass is so different.
For leather, I like my Selle Anatomica H2. It does have some creak but that may also be due to the fact that I've gone on many rough bikepacking tours with a heavy saddlebag hanging off the rails. I prefer the SA over my Brooks, but a Brooks with a cut out may be just as comfortable.
If you want a 'vegan' saddle, I've heard very good thinks about Ergon. My wife's older Specialized Avatar needs replacing and I think we will consider the SR (women's specific).
Ditto what Peruvian said, hard to recommend saddles with any accuracy.
Though we sell a lot of Fizik Vento Argo and Terra Argo with very few complaints. If you want to try one of the short nosed saddles, these ones are a good bet. Specialized is one of the originators of that style with the Power saddle, which is also great.
That fizik argo 3d printed deal looks interesting, i've been on the verge of ordering one to try on the new bike but fuck they're expensive.
Currently I have a couple of shimano's pro stealth saddles and like them fairly well but not enough to stop looking around at other things. Would like to try some ergon stuff too. Feel like I'm going to basically get a better demo program going for us.
I haven't tried to Argo, but do (maybe did?) have the Anteres which I was not a fan of. As someone who may or may not have experience creating 3d printed pads for cyclists - Fizik did not get the lattice structure correct and the variance between high and low support was not (IMO) the best execution.
3d Printed Specialized Power was a better shape and lattice, in my experience.
I do think some of the new materials are nice on the gravel bike because they do a better job of isolating you from the surface.
E.g. 3d printed Fizik and Specialized
Specialized "Elaston" saddles (use BASF Infinergy foam (same as Adidas Boost)).
Switched to Ergon last summer. It is the only saddle I can ride indoors for more than an hour without issues. Even better outside.
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Perfer et obdura, hic dolor olim utior tibi. -Ovid
Not gravel specific, but interested in buying a new/used (endurance) road or gravel bike. Something like a Salsa Warroad or Giant Defy Advanced Pro, in the 58/59 size. I'm getting back into biking and while I might only buy a road or gravel now, there is a decent chance I by the other style in a few months.
So far, I'm looking on: Pink Bike, eBay, Pros Closet, Bicycle Blue Book, Craiglist, Backcountry/CC, and FB Marketplace. Am I missing any of the big (retail?) players? There are bikes out there but since I don't have strict criteria, I want to make sure I'm not missing a blowout sale or something.
Greater deets: priced under ~$3.5k, hydraulic discs, 1x for gravel and 2x for road, carbon, endurance geometry. TIA.
Look around at the brand websites. Lots of sale prices returning. I think I saw Revel Rovers on sale recently.
I agree, the Antares had a very obvious and strange placement for the change in print stiffness. It got soft right where I wanted to sit, in the middle of the wings of the saddle, and I could never get into a good position. The Argo seems like it's got a smoother transition, I hope they update the Antares in the near future as the shape itself works way better for me than snub nose saddles.
Consider: https://www.panoramacycles.com/en/product/katahdin-en/
No personal experience but I've had my eye on the steel version and read good things on the interwebz about both the steel and carbon offerings.
Priced in Canadian dollars - converts to $3,100 USD. It checks a lot of your boxes - comes with 1x GRX drivetrain but the left brifter is 2x compatible.
If you are planning on getting both a road bike and a gravel bike, than just stay in those lanes. The Warroad & Defy seem like a compromises at both ends of that spectrum. Given Spring is coming along, just get something that is better on tarmac now and keep an eye out for a proper gravel bike (something that can fit 40+mm tires) as the season progresses. Given the size of your frame, I'd suggest sticking with 700c wheels so keep an eye on clearances.
Do you expect to do gravel races or is this just for bashing about on dirt roads and/or bikepacking?
If this one works/fits...not cheap....but less $$$$$.
https://bikecloset.com/product/fizik...daptive-140mm/
It makes perfect sense...until you think about it.
I suspect there's logic behind the madness, but I'm too dumb to see it.
If you are expecting to go drop bar, read on: You might want to consider a hybrid brake system like the Jiun or Yokozuma's, If you read some reviews and watch some videos, you might find that it fits your needs better form an endurance road + gravel build. If you were only road racing and can service the bike after each race or ride, hydraulic can be great. The new, very stiff housing & cable combinations on cable driven hydraulics offer as much modulation, greatly reduced service schedules, and higher reliability plus the ability to field service. Having had TRP and Avid MTN_7 cable disc on past touring builds, the new stuff is light years beyond those solutions. I would open the search to include that tech and personally would prefer it over the complexity of fully hydraulic. Another perk is if you are road tripping between rides, you will not see the problems with brake sag that many complain about in SRAM and Shimano hydraulic drop bar systems.
Another couple bikes to consider: Crust, SOMA, Ibis and Santa Cruz. For carbon: the Hakka MX and Stigmata are very versatile and can accomplish the styles of riding you are seeking with great reviews. I ride a Hakka MX and have friends on various releases of the Stigmata. You stated carbon, and I understand the alure. Without racing and certain applications where weight and engineered flex are targeted features, steel and titanium may be a better ride quality and honestly more fun on gravel. Niner makes a great steel RLT in your price range that is FUN. Since you are getting back into biking, I would err on FUN over fast.
Another clarification, you stated 1x for gravel and 2x for road. Are you expecting to have two bikes eventually? If not, I would recommend that you choose one and move ahead. 2x is probably your best bet for versatility and is not much of a weight penalty in the end, especially if you want to ride road most of the time. That said, you can go with 1x and do what I did, which is to build out several wheel sets on XD/XDR drive shells and E13 12speed helix R cassettes. I have one with the 9-52 range, one in 9-45 tooth range, and then roll a 1271 SRAM cassette on a tubular cassette for commuting and around town rides where I am not going cast and do not need to upper gear.
Feel free to PM if you want to talk builds. My neighbor owns a bike shop in Denver and could maybe build you something in your price range that fits your dreams.
Someone once told me that I ski like a Scandinavian angel.
I definitely agree with @peruvian. If that is out of the question, consider your top use mile and trip# considered and buy that bike with considerations to the other purpose. You can always get a lower cost used road bike with old components and a fun gravel bike for weekend rides. I think it would be very reasonable to do that for $3500. Peruvian knows. Listen to Peruvian.
Someone once told me that I ski like a Scandinavian angel.
I'd say there are plenty of "gravel" bikes out there that would work great as a do it all for both road and gravel riding. Cannondale's supersix SE with some nice wide slicks, crux, orbea terra, etc. Or trek's domane endurance road bike fits 38s. But if you're getting way out there on forest roads and occasional singletrack being able to have a 40-45mm tire makes a real difference.
I'm eyeing that new domane rsl, which has less tire clearance (~35mm) and a more aggressive fit than the standard domane, as a potential next road bike. Most of the road riding and even racing around here finds it's way onto dirt and light gravel which I don't particularly like doing with my supersix that has rim brakes and only fits 25s. Although I question how much of a difference that would actually be vs my major jake with more aero "road" wheels. it's pretty good with the more aggressive fit and 34 corsas right now and I could just put on a bigger chainring.
Last edited by jamal; 02-24-2023 at 02:42 PM.
Ooh, good call. They have a Rival build for $3200 and a GRX build for $3700.
Good call - looks solid for $2500.
I hadn’t heard of them…that does look good. And need to compare more closely to the Revel but Panorama looks like a better deal.
That’s fair, Peruvian. So something like the Cutthroat and then a more aggressive road bike? I’ve run across a few Defy’s on sale and they look solid and comfortable. I’m down for something more aggressive but do want comfort (I won’t be racing or anything).
Good stuff. Right now my bike is a (REI) Novara Strada 5D from ~2016. It has TRP Spyre Mechanical Disks and they’re ok, but do think I want more stopping power. I haven’t heard of people complaining about hydraulics - nor did I know of cable-driven hydraulics - but am also not super tuned in. I could also switch to those hybrid brakes down the road if I’m having issues too, right? (Same mount, brake rotors, etc.)?
Yes, I’m thinking I will have 2x bikes eventually. Good to know on Denver - I just moved to San Francisco and will likely be riding Marin, East Bay, etc. on the weekends.
I do like that but unfortunately, they don’t have larges, so the green build is the only option for me.
Yeah, makes sense. I have considered doing something like the Warroad with two sets of wheels but think I’ll probably end up with two bikes anyway, so figure I can tailor them a bit more closely.
The Panorama and Revel look like great gravel options on sale. I’ve also found a Scott Addict 30 (Carbon, 105 groupset) for $2400 brand new and a slightly used Giant Defy Adv Pro 2 (Carbon, Ultregra) for $3k. I’m not opposed to more aggressive road racing bikes but also don’t think I need them - my racing days are behind me and I do want to be comfortable on longer rides (5+ hours, I imagine).
Thanks for the help, all.
A few people I know picked these up on sale: https://www.laufcycling.com/product/lauf-anywhere and, far as I can tell, a carbon frame and handlebars for $2k is pretty tough to beat. Of course 1x Rival and fork spacing may or may not be your jam. I also don't love the tires they spec, but those are an easy swap if you even feel the same.
Last edited by kathleenturneroverdrive; 02-27-2023 at 10:36 AM.
A friend is shopping for a gravel bike (not much paved riding) in the <$2500 category, size Medium. I’m a fan of Lauf in general but their sale price bikes are sold out in Medium. Any other sales going on?
https://www.canyon.com/en-us/gravel-...-1by/3236.html Seems a bit heavy but maybe that’s typical for this price range
Not on sale, but <$2500 for Carbon frame with GRX, 2x, Hydraulic disc, or 1x SRAM Apex. Look at the Fezzari options.
Spyres are probably best on a long distance touring bike (Pacific Coast Highway or trans-continental) because they are very easy to tear down and rebuild in the field. I have had those on a bike and do not miss them one bit. To swap to a better than TRP HYRD cable-driven hydraulic, you will need to swap out the cable housing too. That is one of the major factors in those brakes being so lifeless and bad at stopping.
The cable activated hydraulic use a shift-type cable housing that is very stiff and does not compress. This provides the modulation you were lacking in the spyres. The Hydraulics allow for 2-pot and 4 pot braking like you would get in a hydraulic brake without two major pain points: needing to service them every 500-1000 miles, and brifter squish/breaks. You can crash and wont lose your brakes if your brifter hood gets cracked like you would in hydraulic. Check out some of the Juin/Yokozuma videos on U-Tube and your will see people surprised to place those among SRAM brakes and in many uses above Shimano hydraulic...
Understanding you will eventually want to go with 2 bikes: I used to live in SF/Oakland (4 years) and rode all over the region. Start with a wide tire supporting road bike (aluminum will be fine) with some solid road wheels and a gravel set to swap out. They don't need to be carbon or fancy. Aluminum will do just fine. You will likely want to go with 2x and retain sanity. Honestly, I even had a 3x9 campangolo set up that I can attest you will go full granny on one of those in the Mission and Snake Road in Oakland. With modern 2x11 and 12, you should be fine. I think that range will be better for your use than 1x11/12. Remember, bikes get stollen at amazing rates in that region. You will want to carry an obsecenely heavy lock on city rides even for the quickest stop. It sucks, but you will become an alley cat post haste. I recommend the Kryptonite fogetaboutit chain and the mini. I cannot tell you how many times I came back to a clearly attempted theft with no issues and have never had a bike stollen.
Additionally, I am the only person I know that rode daily in the Bay that was not in a bad bike and car accident. Seriously. Get a great helmet, lots of lights (both flashing and steady front and back), and learn to pray. I was hit maybe 3 times by cars but always at low speed and never with damage, and that was fully lit. This is also why I recommend getting a steel bike frame. It will ride better over the horrible road conditions, be more pleasurable, and it will also be very easy to fix if you do crash or get hit. Weight penalty is minor and there are some really cool designs and brands making great steel bikes.
Someone once told me that I ski like a Scandinavian angel.
I’m glad to see this film is streaming online - if only for a short while.
https://bikepacking.com/plog/there-from-here-film/
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