DIY Binding Drill Jig (printable)

[MottN]

This is a mostly 3D printable ski drill jig for anyone who wants something a little nicer than paper templates. I would say its 80% of a proper jig, and certainly eliminates most of the tedium of paper templates.
The basic system uses 2020 t-slot profiles with a centering clamp at each end to grip the ski. Riding on these are sliders that fit a toe and heel drill template and a center plate between them. The sliders can be used to lock the fore/aft position of each template but allow some vertical float to accommodate for the ski shape.

Cost to make this is probably $10-20 for some fasteners and maybe another $20 for aluminum extrusion depending on what you can find, and of course filament.
I am happy to make these for people who aren't able to make their own.

I also tried to address the drill guide issue. Using the plastic as a drill guide is not great, but drill bushings are expensive. I use a brass tube that works as a perfect drill sleeve for 8mm stepped bits.
There should be template files for most common bindings in various hole size for different fits if using tubes for drill sleeves, or print the smaller 8.25mm if using directly with the printed templates.

[April 2024] I have updated the design to make it a little more robust and allow the aluminum bars to sit lower so they hold the templates better. Attached are a few pictures of the new version.


Here is the original video I posted in the mounting thread, it used an early version of the jig:
https://imgur.com/9oj33tR

If you have a 3d printer and want to make your own, files are here on Printables:
https://www.printables.com/model/300217-diy-ski-binding-drill-jig
https://www.printables.com/model/847492-ski-drill-jig-templates-version-1-raised-text
https://www.printables.com/model/847...n-2-flush-text

Or here on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/442...ofileId-348495
https://makerworld.com/en/models/664472#profileId-591829


If you have questions, issues, or suggestions of course you can post here, but also feel free to PM me here, on either of the above platforms, or email me at Nat.Mottaz@gmail.com

[Eluder]

strong effort

[lazyasian]

Hot damn, nice work! I was going to print a static jig for a fixed BSL tomorrow, but now I'm very tempted to go for one of these instead!

How well does the ski centering work? I might split the difference and add the center finder to a static jig while waiting for extruder rails to show up.


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[fleaches]

Neat! I think I'll have to try this one.

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[MottN]

The centering mechanism works well and its pretty easy to double check.

You can always use the notches on the body of centering clamp to mark center several places, draw your CL, then use a fixed jig. That might be easiest.

[Westcoaster]

This is good

[cat in january]

I like this and the brass sleeve is great. So can you contract something like this out or is it too expensive for a one off and you need to know someone with a 3d printer?

[rfconroy]

Engineers are dorks - this is rad!

MottN if you havent read through the other thread on this check it out:
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d-mounting-jig

General unsolicited feedback - so take it for what its worth....
I would bet you dont need a drill bushings/metal sleeves for the holes if you're using a standard stepped bit. I've had pretty good success with reusing holes with a standard drill bit, and stepped. I can get about 4 mounts with a standard, and I have yet to hit a limit im uncomfortable with yet with a stepped bit. Typically with a 0.4mm nozzle I print three perimeters to get a bit more wall thickness.

I've also played around with using standard machine nuts to act as a ghetto drill bushing, and while it works well, its not really worth the time IMO. Cant remember which nut size I figure it out again, if you're interested.

[DigSki]

This is awesome. If I mounted tech binders I'd be printing one right now.

For those unaware - most public libraries will let you print at cost of the material, so it's insanely cheap.

I do think the brass inserts are a great call. I've done a bunch of mounts with rfcontroy's jigs and have had no issues, but I take a smidge of material off every time and eventually I think the drill might start to wander. So, I'm actually going to reprint a version of rfconroy's jigs with holes sized to accept the inserts.

[Westcoaster]

Engineers are dorks - this is rad!

MottN if you havent read through the other thread on this check it out:
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d-mounting-jig

General unsolicited feedback - so take it for what its worth....
I would bet you dont need a drill bushings/metal sleeves for the holes if you're using a standard stepped bit. I've had pretty good success with reusing holes with a standard drill bit, and stepped. I can get about 4 mounts with a standard, and I have yet to hit a limit im uncomfortable with yet with a stepped bit. Typically with a 0.4mm nozzle I print three perimeters to get a bit more wall thickness.

I've also played around with using standard machine nuts to act as a ghetto drill bushing, and while it works well, its not really worth the time IMO. Cant remember which nut size I figure it out again, if you're interested.

I have been having good luck as well, particularly when using an 8mm punch first. That being said, printing larger holes and using a *single* drill bushing with a head such that the fit between the bushing and the 3d printed holes is a loose friction fit might be a more long term approach to all of this. You get more tolerance stackup, of course...

https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bushi...metric/id~8mm/

[MottN]

Engineers are dorks - this is rad!

MottN if you havent read through the other thread on this check it out:
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d-mounting-jig

General unsolicited feedback - so take it for what its worth....
I would bet you dont need a drill bushings/metal sleeves for the holes if you're using a standard stepped bit. I've had pretty good success with reusing holes with a standard drill bit, and stepped. I can get about 4 mounts with a standard, and I have yet to hit a limit im uncomfortable with yet with a stepped bit. Typically with a 0.4mm nozzle I print three perimeters to get a bit more wall thickness.

I've also played around with using standard machine nuts to act as a ghetto drill bushing, and while it works well, its not really worth the time IMO. Cant remember which nut size I figure it out again, if you're interested.

I have been having good luck as well, particularly when using an 8mm punch first. That being said, printing larger holes and using a *single* drill bushing with a head such that the fit between the bushing and the 3d printed holes is a loose friction fit might be a more long term approach to all of this. You get more tolerance stackup, of course...

https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bushi...metric/id~8mm/

Yeah, I agree; Particularly with stepped bits where the the single cutting flute is so short, using the plastic as a guide is perfectly fine.
My original thought was that for anyone that doesn't have easy access to a printer, a bushing or sleeve is more enticing to protect a small investment if you have to pay to have it printed. That and it feels right haha

A normal drill bushing works great too, and if you use a single one like you are suggesting westcoaster then it doesn't add to much to the cost. I see that was discussed in the other thread as well. I suppose it limits you in how close you can be between holes, which only is an issue if you want to a set of plates to do more than 1 or 2 patterns.

[MottN]

This is awesome. If I mounted tech binders I'd be printing one right now.

For those unaware - most public libraries will let you print at cost of the material, so it's insanely cheap.

I do think the brass inserts are a great call. I've done a bunch of mounts with rfcontroy's jigs and have had no issues, but I take a smidge of material off every time and eventually I think the drill might start to wander. So, I'm actually going to reprint a version of rfconroy's jigs with holes sized to accept the inserts.

This should work with alpine bindings too, or am I missing something? I could make something to set BSL between the plates but I figured most of the time you would have the boot and a dimension to the heel and toe lines relative to the pattern.

I have only mounted 3-4 alpine bindings to 20+ tech bindings so I may be ignorant of something.

[MottN]

I like this and the brass sleeve is great. So can you contract something like this out or is it too expensive for a one off and you need to know someone with a 3d printer?

Yeah this is probably too much printing time for it to be reasonable for most printing services, I've never tried though. Best thing would be to use this as an excuse to get a printer
Library as DigSki suggested is a good option too.

I am happy to make and ship too.
To cover my costs, I think it would be $65 for the jig (including hardware and t-slots) and $10/$20 per set of templates, + shipping.

[DigSki]

This should work with alpine bindings too, or am I missing something? I could make something to set BSL between the plates but I figured most of the time you would have the boot and a dimension to the heel and toe lines relative to the pattern.

I have only mounted 3-4 alpine bindings to 20+ tech bindings so I may be ignorant of something.

Oh yeah, definitely would work great for alpine binders. I should have added that if I stayed in one place I'd do this one. I migrate during the winter, so the simplicity of the 3 puzzle pieces of the other jig works perfectly for me - not many parts and they're pretty beefy, so hard to lose / break.

Anyway, this thing is sweet. I might print one anyway since it's so damn cool.

[alfajores]

I too am happy to print for Front Range locals or those passing through. Just pay for filament and we are good to go!

I also have a Jigarex and was thinking about printing plates for that this season. Adding a second jig like this makes more sense and won't be much more work. Another perk to this is that we can color code our plates to manufacturers and that will help with organization! The brass bushings make sense to me too. I may not need them in my application as I am a diehard for inserts. This forum has a weird user profile: Solly 920s and Pivot 18s will get mounted 12 times. Most other bindings will get flipped in a couple seasons after 2-3 mounts and on to something better. Know thyself. If you are not going to need to mount these bindings more than a couple times, it will be fine to go all-plastic on those plates

Denver locals: If anyone needs access to a jigarex or insert tools, let me know. Swing by and mount away!

Cheers!

[MottN]

Posting a little update since I had some time to work on this over the weekend.

I've updated the parameterized files to have two new versions. One has a library of binding patterns with template parameters, this makes it easy to load one and then just change the drill size or any other tweaks as needed.
The other is similar except that you can turn on and off multiple patterns within the same template. This one you still have to manually enter the base size of the template and shift the holes forward or backwards as needed. Here is an example of a shift and kingpin heel together:


Those work if you need to modify things for any reason, and I also just have the standard templates .stl files for the same binding patterns.
I've noted the original source of the paper templates and any uncertainties with them. Most are from Knut Pohl's work, but there are some others thrown in there too and a few where different layouts had conflicting dimensions.

I have pretty much all of the modern tech bindings covered, except I haven't been able to find good ski trab layouts with heel and pin line.

For alpine, I just have Pivots, SPX, STH2 & Wardens, and the Jester/Squire/Griffon family;Are there others that people use commonly? I don't pay too much attention to alpine gear.

[Duffman]

This is awesome! Going to harass a friend who has a printer soon, any chance you have the template for the Warden demos on there also? If not is this something difficult to add? I know a bunch of us on here have procured a stash of these over the past couple years .

[mrkbrnblm]

Imagine if every Jong was like MottN... This is incredible!

[waxoff]

For alpine, I just have Pivots, SPX, STH2 & Wardens, and the Jester/Squire/Griffon family;Are there others that people use commonly? I don't pay too much attention to alpine gear.

Tyrolia Attack are pretty commonly used.

[skisurfmirth]

Posting a little update since I had some time to work on this over the weekend.

I've updated the parameterized files to have two new versions. One has a library of binding patterns with template parameters, this makes it easy to load one and then just change the drill size or any other tweaks as needed.
The other is similar except that you can turn on and off multiple patterns within the same template. This one you still have to manually enter the base size of the template and shift the holes forward or backwards as needed. Here is an example of a shift and kingpin heel together:


Those work if you need to modify things for any reason, and I also just have the standard templates .stl files for the same binding patterns.
I've noted the original source of the paper templates and any uncertainties with them. Most are from Knut Pohl's work, but there are some others thrown in there too and a few where different layouts had conflicting dimensions.

I have pretty much all of the modern tech bindings covered, except I haven't been able to find good ski trab layouts with heel and pin line.

For alpine, I just have Pivots, SPX, STH2 & Wardens, and the Jester/Squire/Griffon family;Are there others that people use commonly? I don't pay too much attention to alpine gear.

Tyrolia Attack, which has had the same hole pattern as some older Tyrolia bindings. Some folks on here, myself included, are big fans of the 916/STH and will use foreva

[chaka]

Tyrolia Attack are pretty commonly used.

another vote for Tyrolia Attack. awesome work!

[MottN]

Great, thanks!
I will see about adding Attacks, warden demos, and the older salomon alpine patterns.

[fleaches]

Thanks for posting this, I spent the last couple of weeks slowly printing parts for my own



I struggled a little to get the sliders onto the t slot, but after hitting them with a heat gun for a few seconds they are fine. Also I used a circular pipe cutter for the brass tubing which left a little bit of a burr that had to be drilled out, but now it's all good.

Working on mounting some ATK Trofeos now. I did a test mount on some wood which came out really close (like 1/2 mm off length), but since these are race heels without an adjustment plate I think I am going to mount the toes and then do the heel manually.

[Duffman]

I know nothing about 3D printing but have a good friend w multiple machines who will let me use them How much time and how much would the materials cost to build this thing? Thanks for the help w the JONG question.

[fleaches]

I know nothing about 3D printing but have a good friend w multiple machines who will let me use them How much time and how much would the materials cost to build this thing? Thanks for the help w the JONG question.

Time was maybe a week for me on a single machine? But that was just sort of casually wandering into the garage a couple times a day and starting a new print if another had finished. I also did the small pieces one at a time instead of packing them onto the bed.

Maybe like 2/3 of a standard PLA spool, so < $20 in plastic.

The other random hardware was more, closer to $50.

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