Yeah if you're set on not getting full winters, I personally would replace those KO2s and sell the old ones while they still have some value.
My wife's winters are 6 year old Blizzaks that had about 7.5/32 still left on them... Sold them last night for $350 and putting brand new of the same tire on for about $1000... Makes the tires actually $650 (CDN) so pretty reasonable to get the full 13/32 tread back.
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Another vote for replacing the tires and I am a cheap bastard. Think of it as keeping your rig on the road and upright is money saved.
New tire time. I'm in the same boat, 6/32 left on my ATs on the truck. If it was spring I'd run em through the fall but its the way it goes.
This is what I’ve done. Now my cooper AT tires are ready for replacement and my winter tires are still in good shape. I’ll be running fresh at tires next summer.
What do you all do about your full size spare? At one point, I had 5 copper AT mounted tires. Then I busted a sidewalk on a rock. My current full size spare is a partially worn studded snow tire that my tire guy sold me for a song. Same size as the summer and winter tires that I run.
I enjoyed running these tires on my Tacoma, but im at 5/32nd on tread at 35k which I expected better than what I got. I have even wear patterns but didnt religiously rotate. Pretty quiet on road too. Overall happy, but trying out some Falken Wildpeaks for the next set. Will finish off the toyos next spring through summer to get at least 40k out of them.
I just got new tires and told the guys to keep the best looking one of my old tires and mount it on the spare tire rim for me. My old spare got stolen off my truck while parked at the airport. One thing to think about with full sized spares is making sure that it fits into wherever you are going to store it. With Toyotas some of the bigger spares won't fit into the under-truck storage spot.
Alright- I ordered some new K02s. Local tire shop has me scheduled a full month out, but I'll make do on the 7/32s of tread between now and then.
5 years ago a set of 4 K02s cost me about $800 OTD. Today it was $1390 including install. Ugh
Sell the old ones if they're not all patched up and beat. You'll be as shocked by what folks will pay for used tires as you were by what your new set cost. I've sold several sets on cl with no issues. Folks love deals on name brand used stuff. Just look at all the jackets in my closet...
Brandine: Now Cletus, if I catch you with pig lipstick on your collar one more time you ain't gonna be allowed to sleep in the barn no more!
Cletus: Duly noted.
I bought them. A little louder on pavement than the tires that came stock on the Tacoma, but a worlds difference in traction. I actually just drove out from hunting up on Monty in some gnarly peanut butter mud and snow and I was seriously impressed with their ability to clear the mud.
I probably won’t have much input on snow performance, once hunting season is over I’ll switch to dedicated snows.
Dude, I don’t want this to turn into the other shitshow of a thread, but living in TV you should seriously consider a set of snow tires. You’d be blown away at how much better they are on snowpacked roads than those KO2’s. No comparison in winter driving confidence. Get winter tires now, run the KO2’s for another summer, and replace them in spring of 2024.
Question I've been pondering for a while:
I'll need to replace my non-winter tires in the spring. Ford, in their infinite wisdom, spec'ed 20" rims on my truck, which seems pretty stupid given that it's the FX4 trim with factory skid plates and locking rear diff. I feel like I have to walk on eggshells off-road. Going to smaller wheels is the obvious answer, but:
-Cheap steel wheels no longer exist, so new wheels are a pretty significant investment.
-Tire Rack says the smallest I can go is 18". Is 1" of extra sidewall height really going to make a meaningful difference?
Option B is to stick with 20s but go E-rated for the burlier sidewall, but 20" E-rated options seem to be limited and spendy. Option C would be to try and get lucky finding some used 18" wheels on KSL over the winter, but that's a crapshoot.
Have you looked for takeoffs on ebay?
Also, what truck? The 15-20 f150 can definitely do 17" rims, although I don't know that backspacing constraints might exist.
I think going to an 18 makes sense, particularly if you end up with significantly better tire pricing as a result.
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It's a 2010. Haven't looked at ebay. I assumed shipping would be prohibitive, but maybe not? I'm definitely hesitant to buy a set of used wheels sight-unseen.
18" tires are usually a decent amount less expensive than 20" tires. I'd look on KSL (in SLC) or Facebook marketplace for factory take-offs for cheap.
You said E-rated -- if this is a 2010 F250/F350, note that the backspacing/offset is different on factory wheels for the super duty trucks over the years, even when they share the same 8x170 bolt pattern. The 1999-2010 wheels should all be interchangeable. The 2011-2022 wheels should all be interchangeable. But don't mix between those eras (i.e. don't put a 2015 wheel on a 2010 truck -- it may not clear the brake calipers or steering components).
Also I wrote "should," as in there may well be minor differences in clearance and fitment. For example, there is a version of the 20" wheel that has a smaller center bore and will not fit on some other rear axles. Google before buying anything.
I just bought the same truck used and have been pondering the same question. Truck came with KO2s w/ 7/32 of tread left but my limited time on snow this season has left me unimpressed. I'm thinking I'll spring for some real winter tires for the 20' rims and search all winter for 18" rims for something next summer. Either way I'm going to be spending a big chunk of change that I wish I could just pour into one solution,.
Sorry, F150. E-rated tires would just be for general burliness so I'd be less likely to flat on 20s.
Good point on the cost of 18" vs 20" tires. Definitely need to consider overall net cost here. It's also worth noting that I bike commute during the week so I don't put a lot miles on the truck and whatever new tires I end up with in the spring should last me 4-5 years.
I have the same generation truck. You can go down to 17" rims but of course check backspacing. 18's should be easy to find. I've always bought my second set of wheels off Ebay anytime I needed a set for snows. Shipping nor cost to ship have been an issue in my experience.
As to the question does 1" of sidewall make a significant difference? Yes, that will absolutely make a noticeable difference off road.
I've been on the casual hunt for a different set of 18s for my 2012 before I buy new tires, its crazy what people want for a set of used wheels now.
So we are all three looking for the same thing, eh? I'd like to add a second set of wheels and dedicated snows, but if I don't find a cheap set of wheels I probably won't.
Before anyone jumps down my throat, there are two other rigs in the driveway with dedicated snows. I also keep a set of chains in the truck.
Excellent info everyone, thanks. Maybe it's just bad timing, but fleabay prices for used 6x135 wheels seem to start at $130/ea which isn't much cheaper than new. Also, a lot of them are 18x7.5 or 18x8, while Tire Rack says stock is 18x9. Are the narrower widths an issue?
I'm starting to think this calls for some junkyarding. Some days I really miss my old truck[/sigh]
Narrower is not an issue if your tire says it will fit. There are a range of rim widths tires will work with.
It will change the profile of the tire on the road but no big deal.
And the more narrow rim is less likely to get curb rash.
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