Ask the experts

[joetron]

Case closed then, thanks for chiming in.

In other news; anyone have experience or opinions on dsd Runt? Or other similar products? Looking for even more small bump sensitivity from my Lyrik. Wet off-camber roots etc.

Is it worth the coin? Or should I spend the money on more frequent servicing instead? Or beer?

There is a Runt thread. Lots of good info in there. I am Runt positive. Great small bump with excellent midstroke support and bottom resistance.
Disclaimer: Diaz is a good buddy and we share a workplace address, but I’m not a part of his business.


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[Dantheman]

Case closed then, thanks for chiming in.

In other news; anyone have experience or opinions on dsd Runt? Or other similar products? Looking for even more small bump sensitivity from my Lyrik. Wet off-camber roots etc.

Is it worth the coin? Or should I spend the money on more frequent servicing instead? Or beer?

Absolutely love my IRT Mezzer.

[Kopi_Red]

Absolutely love my IRT Mezzer.

Ditto. I’m a big fan of the IRT in my Mezzer as well.

[g_man80]

Anyone know?

I think the only difference is the spider on the XT is anodized and SLX is painted. Both are steel rings with aluminum spiders.

[El Chupacabra]

I think the only difference is the spider on the XT is anodized and SLX is painted. Both are steel rings with aluminum spiders.

Thanks. Certainly doesn't justify the XT cost for that chainring.

[GeorgiaSnow]

Case closed then, thanks for chiming in.

In other news; anyone have experience or opinions on dsd Runt? Or other similar products? Looking for even more small bump sensitivity from my Lyrik. Wet off-camber roots etc.

Is it worth the coin? Or should I spend the money on more frequent servicing instead? Or beer?

Love my Vorsprung Secus on my Lyrik. Would do it again for sure.


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[sf]

There is a Runt thread. Lots of good info in there. I am Runt positive. Great small bump with excellent midstroke support and bottom resistance.
Disclaimer: Diaz is a good buddy and we share a workplace address, but I’m not a part of his business.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Thanks, had all but forgotten about it. Thought I remembered it as a mtbr-thread.

Love my Vorsprung Secus on my Lyrik. Would do it again for sure.


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Secus is interesting, but not to thrilled on the Pinkbike review. Don't want my fork to ride lower as such. And it's a bit more involved installing it, no?

Mezzer IRT comments, noted. I'll show myself over to the Runt-thread if I have further questions.

Thanks all. Ask the experts might be the "deliverestest" thread on the internet

[Andeh]

Case closed then, thanks for chiming in.

In other news; anyone have experience or opinions on dsd Runt? Or other similar products? Looking for even more small bump sensitivity from my Lyrik. Wet off-camber roots etc.

Is it worth the coin? Or should I spend the money on more frequent servicing instead? Or beer?

I have an EXT Era which has a similar air chamber setup. I love it for being able to set mid-stroke support while keeping small bump compliance, without a huge wall of progression at the end. I'm looking at getting an ebike next year, and will definitely put a Runt or Secus in its 38 whenever I can.

[sf]

I have an EXT Era which has a similar air chamber setup. I love it for being able to set mid-stroke support while keeping small bump compliance, without a huge wall of progression at the end. I'm looking at getting an ebike next year, and will definitely put a Runt or Secus in its 38 whenever I can.

I could have bought an Era with my frame. Kicking myself for not to, as it would have been 40% off compared to full price. Figured that a Lyrik "was good enough" - which it is - but need and want etc

How much of a difference is there compared to a standard Lyrik / 36?

[Andeh]

I could have bought an Era with my frame. Kicking myself for not to, as it would have been 40% off compared to full price. Figured that a Lyrik "was good enough" - which it is - but need and want etc

How much of a difference is there compared to a standard Lyrik / 36?

I haven't ridden a Lyrik other than a couple demos, but compared to the 36, it's quite a bit stiffer and has a lot more damping. But by tuning the ratio of the + to ++ chamber, you can get a nice amount of midstroke support without hitting a wall of progression. Like, on my 160mm fork, if I slam on the front with brakes locked, I can use almost all of my travel, but in normal riding, I almost always have about 20mm or so of reserve. I really like that because it means the front end stays nicely supportive on steeps when braking. At the same time, it tracks really well through small chatter. Blister has a really good comparison of them too.

It's not without flaws though. I had to send mine back to get one of the bushings reemed (lower left was too tight). I also had them change compression tune to "light", but that's kind of a personal preference. And while you can do basic oil change yourself, much beyond that requires either special tools or sending it in.

I quite like mine, and have no plans to replace it on my Megatrail, but as I said when I get my next bike (ebike) I will try to just upgrade the fork it will come with to get a similar airspring design, rather than buying another Era or an Ohlins. Dropping a GRIP2 and a Runt in a 38 Performance is cheaper than trying to sell the same fork and buying an RXF 38 or an Era.

[XXX-er]

https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/wor...Mq99qskWrtAhOA

every thing you ever wondered about the quick link ^^ a whole artical

[Wes Mantooth]

What’s the consensus on putting in a tube and inflating it to press down new rim tape before reinstalling a cush core? I usually do it for new tape without a cush core but not sure if the insert kinda does the same thing? Or is this not necessary at all?

[toast2266]

What’s the consensus on putting in a tube and inflating it to press down new rim tape before reinstalling a cush core? I usually do it for new tape without a cush core but not sure if the insert kinda does the same thing? Or is this not necessary at all?

Seems like a bunch of extra work.

[radam]

What’s the consensus on putting in a tube and inflating it to press down new rim tape before reinstalling a cush core? I usually do it for new tape without a cush core but not sure if the insert kinda does the same thing? Or is this not necessary at all?

In my experience with tannus inserts, getting a good seal / adhesion of the tape *before* installing the insert helps a lot with keeping the edges from lifting during install or when it comes time for a tire change. The active time involved with installing a tube and pumping it up is minimal. Yeah, you need to let it sit for a bit for it to do its thing, but I think its easier than trying to evenly apply pressure to every inch of the tape with my thumb. Also helps seat one side of tire bead so I think the tubeless setup goes easier as well. Only negative is its not great if you're in a hurry, but I also don't think any tubeless setup has gone well for me, insert or not, if I am rushing.

[bamboocoreONLY]

https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/wor...Mq99qskWrtAhOA

every thing you ever wondered about the quick link ^^ a whole artical

I've never bought into the single use quick link jargain. Sure, I can believe it's a bit weaker when uninstalled then reinstalled, but I've been doing it for years and never broken a re-used one. Granted, I usually get new chains somewhat often to lessen wear on other components. If you carry an extra on rides like you should anyway, no reason to be worried about re-using and breaking one.

[jono]

They don't get weaker with installation and removal, they just get easier to remove. If it gets too easy it's time for a new one. Spontaneous disengagement, even if a pretty loose one, is unlikely but potentially much more annoying than the cost of a quick link.

Will you know what's too easy? Only you know that. Or maybe you don't. One of those, anyway.

[XXX-er]

I think you can tell if a quick link is beyond re-use, if you can't then replace it

I reuse the link when I take the chain off once to clean it for the switch to drip wax, then I just keep adding more wax and the old stuff flakes off on the trail

Be it chains, brake pads, tires or wtf I don't want a failure out on the trail so I replace the stuff before it needs replacing

[grskier]

Re Master Links... seth just posted this one the other day.



Go to 12:20 in that video.

[toast2266]

Has anyone ever had a modern 12 speed quick link fail? Like, I'm talking a random failure, not "a stick got caught in my chain and mangled the area where the quick link happened to be."

Everyone I know re-uses quick links, and I've never heard of one failing. There's no fucking way I'm giving sram $4 (or shimano $17!) everytime I want to take my chain apart.

[jamal]

I've seen it with both a kmc and then a sram 12s quick link recently, both new on their first use. Possibly shifting under a high load while the link is going around the cassette can pull them apart?

[XXX-er]

I'm not sure how but junior would break 9spd sram 971 chains but he broke everything

[Andeh]

Can anyone confirm that the '22 Fox 38 Performance forks don't have the ovalized steerer tube that the Factory & Elite models have? I've been pricing out stuff for the N+1, and when in conversations with OneUp about EDC options, they mentioned that. I hadn't heard it, but it wouldn't surprise me. Given my prior issue with creaking 36s, I'd be really leery of a straight Fox CSU on an ebike with stiff 38mm stanchions.

[HankScorpio]

Has anyone ever had a modern 12 speed quick link fail? Like, I'm talking a random failure, not "a stick got caught in my chain and mangled the area where the quick link happened to be."

Everyone I know re-uses quick links, and I've never heard of one failing. There's no fucking way I'm giving sram $4 (or shimano $17!) everytime I want to take my chain apart.

Never in 20+ years of riding has a quick link failed on me. Recently a shop tech told me that Shimano and SRAM quick links are designed for one time use only but KMCs are reusable. Never heard this before and it won't stop me from reusing SRAM or Shimano links.

[XXX-er]

I think it doesnt necessarily mean a link can't be used its really just what each mfg sez, we all know people who should not be allowed to own tools that might mangle a link taking it off

[Tailwind]

I somehow took an impact directly on the welded section of where my DT Swiss rim is connected. It’s an XM 1900.

The rim separated by a few mm at the section where it joins for the sidewall of the rim. It’s hard to get a photo but it’s probably a 2mm gap where the rim used to connect on the bead hook. I lost all pressure and sealant in about 10 seconds. Put a tube in to get home.

That half of the rim no longer lines up as flushly as the other side. When I run my fingers across it, I can feel a raised edge.

Can I bend this back together and keep riding it? Or should I consider the rim compromised?