it sounds like there is no cleat setup for SPD's ?
i have some of those 20$ welgo spd knock off's sitting in a drawer some where, they had even less float than shimano and as i remember were slightly different than a Shimano cleat
it sounds like there is no cleat setup for SPD's ?
i have some of those 20$ welgo spd knock off's sitting in a drawer some where, they had even less float than shimano and as i remember were slightly different than a Shimano cleat
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Just ordered some Special 8s. Probably not gonna make me ride any better lol.
I found a great deal on a rockshox dropper but it doesn’t have the seat clamp parts. Anyone have a dead post and willing to part with?
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Awesome! I do understand the rage. Knock on wood the new ones have been good to me.
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Where are people buying derailleur cables (internal) these days? Literally last time I stocked up was 6 years ago I split a box with a few buddies. Back then a 100 count box of Sram Stainless cables was $130 bucks. Now it looks like $8-10/each individually wrapped at the LBS? Fack.
However many are in a shit ton.
I've got the Park CC-4, same price, seems a little more accurate.
Another vote for TIME pedals. I do prefer the older non-adjustable ATAC mechanism by a hair. I feel like it has more neutral float and better retention. The new alloy cages are nice though and I'm on the Speciale 8 also. Bought my first pair of TIMEs in '96 and they still work fine, never ridden anything else since.
There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air
whole bunch of vids on setting up cleats
https://ca.video.search.yahoo.com/yh...d4&action=view
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
You can get bulk Shimano stainless for like $2 either in a 10-pack or a 100-pack. They’re both about the same per piece. Jagwire galvanized are like $65 for 100 and I’ve had decent luck on my cheap bikes with those not rusting as long as you use good ferrules and housing.
For my MTB I just go to the LBS every 3-4 months and buy an Opti-Slick from them for like $8. I think they shift better and it’s nice to get some face time with the shop guys for when I actually need something.
when a shop closed down i scored a whole bunch of shit including a box full of jagwire housing,
having that housing and changing it often as well as the inner is pretty key ime
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
The whole point of uninterrupted housing is that you don’t have to change it out very often.
Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.
if you have that 9" loop of housing at the der and then an exposed inner wire, just changing the 9" loop often makes a huge difference
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Awesome, that will be fine. Won’t be building till the winter.
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Ok what the hell is going on here? Sram eagle X01 cassette…. Seemingly has no teeth for removal. My understanding the eagle cassette doesn’t need a lockring but is this missing a piece? Teeth totally stripped and will need to be cut to remove?
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The splines are recessed a little bit on those cassettes. Tough to tell in the pic - are they just hiding in the dirt in there? The splines are kinda built into the center carrier body of the cassette - it's not a separate piece and I don't think they can come off without the entire cassette explodering.
I’ll clean it up and see but on all my other eagle cassettes I can usually see the splines closer to the surface.
I put the cassette tool in there and it just free spins, no engagement at all.
I should add, used wheels and cassette so don’t know the history.
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Looking to upgrade the cantilever brakes on my old tandem, and they are functional-ish, but pretty spicy when trying to stop going downhill. Any good options for upgrades that aren't multiple hundreds of dollars?
Would love to just throw a disc on the front, but it's a 1" threaded fork for a 26" wheel and a bit of google makes that upgrade feel like it won't be worth the hassle.
V brakes? Some sort of newer canti? Am I just missing a threaded disc fork?
Yah it’s real weird and I haven’t seen it before.
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I have a Pike RC Solo Air 160mm that came on the 2016 process 153. It's very hard on small bumps. When I have it dialed in for big hits it feels like a solid fork on rumble strips and bridge slats. If I adjust the rebound to max it's nice and plush on small bumps but it's too fast on bigger obstacles. The low speed damper setting makes it from bad to worse. I did the oil service, no difference. Last year someone here mentioned the same problem and there were some good suggestions. I can't find the posts.
I had the 2015 version of that fork and I think it's the same everything for 2016 as well......could be wrong though. My fork sucked balls no matter what I did and I think the consensus on the internets was that no amount of tuning/oil changes made it not suck. There are some/many from that era of Pikes that simply just suck balls. At the time I think I switched to a DVO Diamond and it was night and day.
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