Ask the experts

[TBS]

Tire spooging question -
Maxxis Ardent 2.4 is weeping (Stan’s) spooge around the bead

Running 20-25psi (I’m 205 in full kit/pack)
It’s been about a year since I added any sealant
It’s not losing air

Question - how much new sealant should I add?
- none, just ride it till it leaks
- couple of oz should do it
- the whole 4oz bottle

TIA

[XXX-er]

IME the Maxxis Minion & aggressor always weeped a bit thru the sidewalls on my 5.5 but it didnt really seem to matter

the Maxxis with the DD casings I have this year do not seem to weep maybe cuz they are 120x2 TPI ?

they don't really lose much air so I thot about it but have not added any stans

I would at least check before every ride which you should do anyhow

[simple]

I'd blame in on those janky rims before the tire.

Put 2ozs in there and 1 gram in your lungs and go pedal.

[skizix]

Tire spooging question -
Maxxis Ardent 2.4 is weeping (Stan’s) spooge around the bead

Running 20-25psi (I’m 205 in full kit/pack)
It’s been about a year since I added any sealant
It’s not losing air

Question - how much new sealant should I add?
- none, just ride it till it leaks
- couple of oz should do it
- the whole 4oz bottle

TIA

Weeping through the sidewall is one thing (which I’ve never seen - maybe a non-tubeless-ready tire thing?

When I see it seeping at the bead it means the tire is getting dry - time to put more goop in. This would make total sense if you haven’t re-gooped for a year.

Not sure why this happens (since tire is not losing air and I don’t need to reseat the bead). But every time I see this and replenish the juice, it stops happening.

I use 2 oz for my27.5 x 2.5’s. 3 oz would be fine too I think. 4oz seems overkill for all but huge tires.

[XXX-er]

it weeped thru my new DHRII on the sidewall and that was a brand new tubeless ready tire, the tire never really lost much air and it didnt seem to matter but it was a little disconcerting I supose

[grskier]

Part of the reason of that sealant is to seal small punctures. That dried stuff maybe helped you get set up tubeless when it wasn’t so dry… but ain’t doing much with the next goat head or sharp rock that gives you a small tear.

But 2 oz in and ride those knobs off like the guy in the idiot thread [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Canada1]

Rock Shock monarch debonair plus shock.

Has a thunk happening mid stroke while in soft setting. Did a can rebuild and lube and it improved, but did not eliminate. I’ll do a full rebuild this weekend. Everything looks spotless and smooth.

Ideas?

Anyone? I see a thread on pink bike where they received feedback this is ramping up pressure as designed in the damping. It isn’t, because this is new issue on an older bike. Looking for ideas because I’ve always worked with fox before.

[jackstraw]

I'd blame in on those janky rims before the tire.

Put 2ozs in there and 1 gram in your lungs and go pedal.

Yeah, I'd agree that it may be the wheels. I've never seen that, but I have seen sidewall bleed quite a bit.

[lifelinksplit]

Brake question. Been hitting the bike park at our hill a lot more this season and my brakes just aren't up to the task. Previously I've run older XTs but have a 2018 Nomad with sram code R and avid 180 rotors. Thinking maybe throwing some Saints and bigger rotors(previously running 203s). What's the latest and greatest stopping power out there now. I don't pay enough attention and know the collective has the knowledge. Thanks fellas.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[El Chupacabra]

Big rotors and metal pads are the cheapest upgrades to stopping power.

I like Shimano brakes a lot, and dislike SRAM about the same. Codes are supposedly decent though, so maybe try rotors + pads first?

[carlh]

Codes are ok enough to not replace. Go big on rotors and mtx gold pads. I have 220/200 on my sentinel and I don’t love the feel but they stop fine so I am too cheap to swap them out.

Brake question. Been hitting the bike park at our hill a lot more this season and my brakes just aren't up to the task. Previously I've run older XTs but have a 2018 Nomad with sram code R and avid 180 rotors. Thinking maybe throwing some Saints and bigger rotors(previously running 203s). What's the latest and greatest stopping power out there now. I don't pay enough attention and know the collective has the knowledge. Thanks fellas.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[toast2266]

Brake question. Been hitting the bike park at our hill a lot more this season and my brakes just aren't up to the task. Previously I've run older XTs but have a 2018 Nomad with sram code R and avid 180 rotors. Thinking maybe throwing some Saints and bigger rotors(previously running 203s). What's the latest and greatest stopping power out there now. I don't pay enough attention and know the collective has the knowledge. Thanks fellas.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

Swap for bigger rotors first. If that doesn't get you the power you want, swap the code r levers for code rsc's. The calipers are the same, so you'd just need to swap in the lever bodies and bleed the system. Rsc's are much, much better than r's. More power, more modulation, and more adjustable.

[jamal]

Yeah old bike had guides, new bike had guides. why do these new ones suddenly suck so much? Oh, R vs RSC. The rsc has a different linkage that gives more leverage. Picked up some new levers, brakes are fine now. But still, how is a modern 4-pot brake so weak? My nearby trail is fast and smooth with a couple of tight switchbacks all in a row at the bottom and my fingers would hurt by the end of it. sram i guess.

[El Chupacabra]

Yeah old bike had guides, new bike had guides. why do these new ones suddenly suck so much? Oh, R vs RSC. The rsc has a different linkage that gives more leverage. Picked up some new levers, brakes are fine now. But still, how is a modern 4-pot brake so weak? My nearby trail is fast and smooth with a couple of tight switchbacks all in a row at the bottom and my fingers would hurt by the end of it. sram i guess.

SRAM Guides are somehow a 4-piston brake that are less powerful than a Shimano 2-piston.

[toast2266]

Yeah old bike had guides, new bike had guides. why do these new ones suddenly suck so much? Oh, R vs RSC. The rsc has a different linkage that gives more leverage. Picked up some new levers, brakes are fine now. But still, how is a modern 4-pot brake so weak? My nearby trail is fast and smooth with a couple of tight switchbacks all in a row at the bottom and my fingers would hurt by the end of it. sram i guess.

These guys still say a code rsc will stop you quicker than a saint (or any other shimano brake):

https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/

Makes me really want to try some trick stuffs though.

[sf]

Brakes….

I’ve had most SRAMs the last few years, no problems really. Used SRAM rotors and pads and never did any bed in.

Now, on my Kavenz, due to the design of the rear triangle I needed 203s, so I threw on some Galfer rotors. The 2mm ones. Still SRAM pads.
Even did the SRAM bed in procedure.

Both front and rear feels and works great, but both make a sound I’ve never heard before. When riding relatively fast and using the brakes there is this sound. Imagine a wheel spinning fast and then you but a piece of paper between the spokes. Frrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

15 rides in, it has sort of disappeared/weakened on the rear, but still the same on the front.

It’s not really that annoying, but whenever I ride by someone I feel like a dentist with a fancy bike I can’t set up or maintain.

Anybody experience something similar? Try Galfer pads?

[toast2266]

Brakes….

I’ve had most SRAMs the last few years, no problems really. Used SRAM rotors and pads and never did any bed in.

Now, on my Kavenz, due to the design of the rear triangle I needed 203s, so I threw on some Galfer rotors. The 2mm ones. Still SRAM pads.
Even did the SRAM bed in procedure.

Both front and rear feels and works great, but both make a sound I’ve never heard before. When riding relatively fast and using the brakes there is this sound. Imagine a wheel spinning fast and then you but a piece of paper between the spokes. Frrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

15 rides in, it has sort of disappeared/weakened on the rear, but still the same on the front.

It’s not really that annoying, but whenever I ride by someone I feel like a dentist with a fancy bike I can’t set up or maintain.

Anybody experience something similar? Try Galfer pads?

Some rotors are just noisier than others. My maguras (stock rotors and pads) make a similar noise.

[sf]

Some rotors are just noisier than others. My maguras (stock rotors and pads) make a similar noise.

Thanks. No need to bother changing pads or trying brake-voodoo then?

I got a pair of Trickstuff pads from a buddy, but I’ll happily save them till needed

[ASmileyFace]

These guys still say a code rsc will stop you quicker than a saint (or any other shimano brake):

https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/

Makes me really want to try some trick stuffs though.

Interesting article. Never heard of the Formula Cura (and Cura 4 pot), but a quick google search has them around $160-190 bucks vs $270 for RSC. Color me curious.

[klauss]

Did I F something up? I replaced a cassette (sunrace) on my DT Swiss 350 hub w/ XD driver and when I went to set the wheel down on its side the entire cassette and driver slid off. I put everything back together but the cassette+driver still slide off pretty easy exposing the hub internals. I put the wheel back on the bike and things seem to be working fine, but this does not seem righteous

[sf]

Did I F something up? I replaced a cassette on my DT Swiss 350 hub w/ XD driver and when I went to set the wheel down on its side the entire cassette and driver slid off. I put everything back together but the cassette+driver still slide off pretty easy exposing the hub internals. I put the wheel back on the bike and things seem to be working fine, but this does not seem righteous

Similar thing happened when I removed that insane plastic disc Canyon puts on their bikes. Worked fine

[toast2266]

Did I F something up? I replaced a cassette (sunrace) on my DT Swiss 350 hub w/ XD driver and when I went to set the wheel down on its side the entire cassette and driver slid off. I put everything back together but the cassette+driver still slide off pretty easy exposing the hub internals. I put the wheel back on the bike and things seem to be working fine, but this does not seem righteous

It's fine. That's normal. Just make sure you don't lose the star ratchets or springs.

[Dantheman]

These guys still say a code rsc will stop you quicker than a saint (or any other shimano brake):

https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/

Makes me really want to try some trick stuffs though.

No Dominions, invalid test

That actually made me *not* want to try Trickstuffs. They weren't even the best brake in the test and several others were very close. To me that data says the performance benefit is not worth the price.

[lifelinksplit]

SRAM Guides are somehow a 4-piston brake that are less powerful than a Shimano 2-piston.

Yeah I have had no issues with any XTs I've had but told myself I'd run these till I had an issue and swap out. Sounds like I should try new rotors/pads first. I just never really liked them. I guess I liked them more than the old avid juicy 7s so theres that...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[XXX-er]

Juicy 7 is pretty close to 20 yrs old, I would call that at least 1 generation ago as bikes components go