"All weather" tires in place of winter tires

[XXX-er]

another thing to do is just leave the tires on and pull out the studs, buy new tires in the fall

[Shorty_J]

What's the car?

I've had good luck buying lightly used snows that are already mounted - just figure out the bolt pattern and often you can buy something from another car that'll work. With Subarus this is particularly easy.

2012 ford escape.

235/70R16 is stock size. There are not many common tire sizes that are narrower but stay within 3% of the height of stock. I've read it's recommended to not go much more than that or you can mess with traction control performance. There is a common size 16" tire that is about 4% smaller diameter. Or a 17" tire that is almost the exact same diameter. These are for 215 wide tires.

My current tires have more than 9/32 of tread left... I would have thought that would be plenty left to clear slush. All I can think of to improve that is a narrower tire and/or a very wide and deep tread depth.

I'd rather buy new and have the full tread and sell them when they are down to about 50% or so.

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[Shorty_J]

I can find a set of cooper discoverer M+S in 215/70r16 but that's almost 4% smaller diameter than stock.

15/32 tread depth is massive and the spaces in the tread look almost into mud tire range.

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[m2711c]

stud that fucker and you can climb any mountain....

[m2711c]

another thing to do is just leave the tires on and pull out the studs, buy new tires in the fall

fuck that, to much work... them studs will drop on their own soon enough.

[J. Barron DeJong]

I can find a set of cooper discoverer M+S in 215/70r16 but that's almost 4% smaller diameter than stock.

15/32 tread depth is massive and the spaces in the tread look almost into mud tire range.
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helpful website for anyone trying to figure out what alternate tire sizes will work:

https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/235-70R16.htm


if it were me I’d be buying a second set of wheels for dedicated snows, as long as you have the space to store them. Can get the narrower snow tire width to maximize performance, much easier to swap back and forth, and no risk to damaging the the tires from swapping.

edit: you’re pretty limited if you try to go down to a 215. I’d personally opt for a 225/65-R17 which allows for a much larger selection. Continental VikingContact are available in that size and are great tires (have those and Nokian Hakkas on our two cars)

[Caucasian Asian]

2012 ford escape.

235/70R16 is stock size. There are not many common tire sizes that are narrower but stay within 3% of the height of stock. I've read it's recommended to not go much more than that or you can mess with traction control performance. There is a common size 16" tire that is about 4% smaller diameter. Or a 17" tire that is almost the exact same diameter. These are for 215 wide tires.

My current tires have more than 9/32 of tread left... I would have thought that would be plenty left to clear slush. All I can think of to improve that is a narrower tire and/or a very wide and deep tread depth.

I'd rather buy new and have the full tread and sell them when they are down to about 50% or so.

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There’s a set of wheels and winter tires for $250 in YYC on marketplace.


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[liv2ski]

Thanks for all the feedback.

Maybe it's worth getting some cheap new rims to get down to 215.

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Call Tire Rack and ask a pro. But I have heard a little narrower is good in snow. Me, I just use standard size AS tires with the Mountain/Snow symbol on them with no issues.

[XXX-er]

fuck that, to much work... them studs will drop on their own soon enough.

well hopefullly johnny law (or jan) doesn't pull you over and write the citation for studs in the summer

[teledad]

Narrower tires will be better in the margin, but unless you want to buy new rims for other reasons (e.g. want to be able to do your own tire swaps) I would just keep the same size (or 225/70R16 which seem to have lots of options and is 2% smaller) and focus on getting good quality tires.

[XXX-er]

What i have noticed is the mouth breathing dentists don't wana slow down when they have more a more compromised tire on the Vehicle,

or think its their god given right to have the same gription ?

[1000-oaks]

On hardpacked snow and ice, a wider tire is better.

Haven't heard that before, curious why that would be?

[BCMtnHound]

Haven't heard that before, curious why that would be?

Modern tread design, soft rubber compounds, and surface area vs ground pressure. I'm sure there's a point of diminishing return on that with width and grip, but with the work pick-ups running on Hwy5 through Albreda after the plows and big rigs have made the highway a skating rink with a couple mm of packed snow and ice, and the stock tire size in a true winter tread is far superior to the skinnies. But head off the highway onto the bush roads in the deep soft snow or spring rot and the narrow tires shine, while the modern stock highway pickup tire widths are wholly underwhelming.

[Shorty_J]

Narrower tires will be better in the margin, but unless you want to buy new rims for other reasons (e.g. want to be able to do your own tire swaps) I would just keep the same size (or 225/70R16 which seem to have lots of options and is 2% smaller) and focus on getting good quality tires.

I do want to do my own swaps and rotations so I want a second set of wheels.

Might have found a deal on a set of steelies locally for $50 for the set.

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[Shorty_J]

Got the steel wheels and ordered Blizzaks in a 215 width.

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[Shorty_J]

Anyone know a formula to determine what pressure I should run in tires that are not the stock dimensions?

I know you can do the chalk test to see how much tread is in contact with the road but that's not an option right now with snow on the ground.

Is there a rule of thumb to this?

I went narrower, and lower profile than stock. I've been running stock pressure but I have this weird hunch I should be running a bit lower.

[El Chupacabra]

Kept stock wheel size (width and diameter) but went to lower profile and narrower width? I'd think you would want to increase pressure, because the tire volume is lower.

[Shorty_J]

Kept stock wheel size (width and diameter) but went to lower profile and narrower width? I'd think you would want to increase pressure, because the tire volume is lower.

So my point of reference when I had a truck is that the two stock sizes had pressures as follows:

275/55R20 : 32 psi
265/70R17 : 35 psi

Those numbers were both on the door sticker.

My current car, stock is 235/70R16
Current tires are 215/70R17

So actually the same aspect ratio but less sidewall. Same tire height so no need to recalibrate the speedometer but narrower and less sidewall.

My hunch is that shorter sidewall tires have stiffer sidewalls and therefore need less pressure but I'm guessing.

[J. Barron DeJong]

So my point of reference when I had a truck is that the two stock sizes had pressures as follows:

275/55R20 : 32 psi
265/70R17 : 35 psi

Those numbers were both on the door sticker.

My current car, stock is 235/70R16
Current tires are 215/70R17

So actually the same aspect ratio but less sidewall. Same tire height so no need to recalibrate the speedometer but narrower and less sidewall.

My hunch is that shorter sidewall tires have stiffer sidewalls and therefore need less pressure but I'm guessing.

Generally, you want to make sure that your new inflation pressure is high enough to meet the same load capacity that the original tire provided.

Simple way to match the pressure/load requirement of the new tires to the originals is to use the calculator here:

https://tiresize.com/pressure-calculator/

[2FUNKY]

Chalk test ftw.

[NW_SKIER]

Find a parking garage and do your chalk test there

[Shorty_J]

Generally, you want to make sure that your new inflation pressure is high enough to meet the same load capacity that the original tire provided.

Simple way to match the pressure/load requirement of the new tires to the originals is to use the calculator here:

https://tiresize.com/pressure-calculator/

Super helpful link... thanks!

I was wrong... calculator says I should go up 1 psi to 36.

Edit: Huh... when I punch in the numbers from my old truck, they do not jive with the calculator results.

I guess I just need to do the chalk test.

[J. Barron DeJong]

Super helpful link... thanks!

I was wrong... calculator says I should go up 1 psi to 36.

Edit: Huh... when I punch in the numbers from my old truck, they do not jive with the calculator results.

I guess I just need to do the chalk test.

My ‘generally’ covered up a lot of nuance. Manufacturer can/will go above the minimum load capacity pressure for various reasons.

If you do go the chalk test route, it would be a good idea to confirm that the tire’s load capacity at your chosen pressure exceed the load that the tire is going to need to support.

[The SnowShow]

Am I missing something here or is this an insane deal?

https://www.discounttirezone.com/Bri...SABEgKOmfD_BwE

[Mr. Blonde]

Am I missing something here or is this an insane deal?

https://www.discounttirezone.com/Bri...SABEgKOmfD_BwE

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