Ask the experts

[sethschmautz]

Any chance it's missing an o-ring?

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I suppose it's possible but I'm not familiar enough with these to know.

The hydraulic hose enters the brake in a different place completely. Originally when I installed it it seemed like I had a leak from that area (where the hose goes into the brake) so I replaced the barb/olive on that section of hose to make sure they weren't the culprit. That leak appears to be gone or it was always leaking from here and I just misdiagnosed it originally.

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[evdog]

If you have a Michael's nearby, they usually have it. And if you go online, there's pretty much always a coupon for 40% off 1 item.

Yup, that's where I get mine.

I used a recipe like that for a while. Mine ends up at 2 parts diluent to 1 part mold builder so it's a bit thicker/chunkier. Seems to leech less and seal punctures better. I do use "tubeless ready" tires exclusively anymore though. For sure also helps with the sweating sidewalls. The RV antifreeze is optional (equals 1/2 a part) but if your bikes are exposed to freezing temps it denatures the latex the and separates the mix, won't work anymore. Since I started adding the RV antifreeze, no more issues with that

Makes sense and good to know if I suddenly start getting flats around late fall. The end of high elevation ride season when I'd hit the cold coincides with the start of desert riding season when I'd be running over tons of cholla balls and other pricklies.

[Boissal]

GG owners, questions about the ISCG mount.

I had a weird rattle develop around the BB of my Gnarvana recently after taking a solid hit to the bash guard. Looking at it closely the whole bashguard/chain guide assembly (Absolute Black Taco) had developed about 1 mm of side to side play that came from the ISCG mount itself being loose (despite the BB being torqued to spec).

On GG frames the ISCG mount slots into the frame using 4 splines and is held in place by the threaded BB cup. The problem is that I have a Shimano bottom bracket (BB MT-800) which requires a 2.5 mm spacer on the drive side. This spacer is fairly thin (35mm ID, 39mm OD) and barely overlaps with the edges of the 4 splines (which probably make a circle with a diameter of about 38 or 38.5 mm). The assembly feels solid with no play in the stand but when the bash guard takes a hard enough hit one of the splines can slide out from under the spacer, making the whole ISCG mount and whatever is attached to it wobble around.

I've tried to show the issue in the pic below. Left if the ISCG mount interfacing with the frame via the 4 splines. Middle is the situation with the spacer (orange) which has too small an outer diameter and can barely overlap with all 4 splines at once. Right is what happens without spacer and what GG probably wants: the large diameter BB cup (yellow) overlaps with the splines a bunch and prevents them from ever moving about.

Thoughts? There are 73mm threaded BBs with no spacers but I'd rather not have to spend $100 on this. I can try to reverse the order of the BB cup and the spacer so the cup contacts the splines. Not sure if that would work once the spindle goes in. Or I can find someone to 3D print a replacement spacer with a larger OD to give more overlap with the splines. No need to suggest not bashing the BB into things all the time, I don't know how to do that...

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

GG owners, questions about the ISCG mount.

I had a weird rattle develop around the BB of my Gnarvana recently after taking a solid hit to the bash guard. Looking at it closely the whole bashguard/chain guide assembly (Absolute Black Taco) had developed about 1 mm of side to side play that came from the ISCG mount itself being loose (despite the BB being torqued to spec).

On GG frames the ISCG mount slots into the frame using 4 splines and is held in place by the threaded BB cup. The problem is that I have a Shimano bottom bracket (BB MT-800) which requires a 2.5 mm spacer on the drive side. This spacer is fairly thin (35mm ID, 39mm OD) and barely overlaps with the edges of the 4 splines (which probably make a circle with a diameter of about 38 or 38.5 mm). The assembly feels solid with no play in the stand but when the bash guard takes a hard enough hit one of the splines can slide out from under the spacer, making the whole ISCG mount and whatever is attached to it wobble around.

I've tried to show the issue in the pic below. Left if the ISCG mount interfacing with the frame via the 4 splines. Middle is the situation with the spacer (orange) which has too small an outer diameter and can barely overlap with all 4 splines at once. Right is what happens without spacer and what GG probably wants: the large diameter BB cup (yellow) overlaps with the splines a bunch and prevents them from ever moving about.

Thoughts? There are 73mm threaded BBs with no spacers but I'd rather not have to spend $100 on this. I can try to reverse the order of the BB cup and the spacer so the cup contacts the splines. Not sure if that would work once the spindle goes in. Or I can find someone to 3D print a replacement spacer with a larger OD to give more overlap with the splines. No need to suggest not bashing the BB into things all the time, I don't know how to do that...

Reading that made my brain really hurt.

Tangentially, has your Gnarvana developed any BB area creaks that seem to be a mystery? Maybe mine is creaking somehow due to the same exact issue you have with yours.

[Boissal]

Yeah sorry it's not the easiest thing to describe and my mad Paint skills had to come into play it make it remotely understandable.

I actually have a relatively quiet Gnarvana it seems, no creaks to track down. The loose ISCG mount doesn't creak, it rattles when the chain guide taps the chain and gets pushed back. It's clearly something that is loose, you wouldn't confuse it with a mystery creak.

[Andeh]

I run a King 30mm bottom bracket (which also requires a 2.5mm DS spacer) on my GG, with a chainguide, and haven't had any issues like you're talking. I think what you're saying sounds plausible. I'd suggest you get a 2.5mm spacer from another BB. I know Wheels Mfg. makes some for theirs, and the ID should be the same since the BSA threads are universal. Universal Cycles is my go-to for weird small parts like this. Should be like a $3 part and $6 shipping.

The times I've had creaks from that area I've tracked them down to:
* crunchy BB bearings
* too much or too little preload on my cranks
* crunchy main pivot bearings
* not enough clearance between chainguide and swingarm (added 1mm spacer to push chainguide out)

[singlesline]

Anyone know what size/length laces to order for five ten free rider pros?

i don’t have an intact lace to measure.

To answer this question for any future searchers who may be looking, the length on my pair of five ten 5-10 freerider pro laces appears to measure 60" laid flat

Weirdly, that's not a very common size--very limited selection in 60". The normal jump is from 54" to 63"...No way these stretched 6" (the initial length was fine for my feet...6" less would have made them hard to tie). If I pull them taught, I can get them to about 64" easily, but I'm pretty sure they are measured at rest.

I'll just buy 63" and cut down as most of the 60" laces look cheap...heatshrink or somethign to replace the aglet. If you're someone who found the original laces too long, the 54" is probably workable.

edit: in euro-sizing, 150cm seems relatively common which translates to 59.something. That's probably the right answer here.

[Boissal]

I run a King 30mm bottom bracket (which also requires a 2.5mm DS spacer) on my GG, with a chainguide, and haven't had any issues like you're talking. I think what you're saying sounds plausible. I'd suggest you get a 2.5mm spacer from another BB. I know Wheels Mfg. makes some for theirs, and the ID should be the same since the BSA threads are universal. Universal Cycles is my go-to for weird small parts like this. Should be like a $3 part and $6 shipping.

Visually the CK spacers look taller than the Shimanos so it would make sense they've overlap the splines enough to prevent them from popping out. Same thing for the WheelsMFG spacers, looks like an OD of 40.7mm vs 39mm for Shimano. That should address my issue, if I'm correct about what's going wrong. I'd rather find something significantly larger, 45mm OD or so, but I can't find that anywhere. Apparently the previous generation of Shimano BBs had those larger spacers but they were shrunk in the current version.

Edit: found a WheelsMFG spacer and a couple of CaneCreek spacers with a 44.6mm OD. Hopefully one of these work for me, I don't need to have the bike rattling itself loose while I bounced around all the rocks!

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

I run a King 30mm bottom bracket (which also requires a 2.5mm DS spacer) on my GG, with a chainguide, and haven't had any issues like you're talking. I think what you're saying sounds plausible. I'd suggest you get a 2.5mm spacer from another BB. I know Wheels Mfg. makes some for theirs, and the ID should be the same since the BSA threads are universal. Universal Cycles is my go-to for weird small parts like this. Should be like a $3 part and $6 shipping.

The times I've had creaks from that area I've tracked them down to:
* crunchy BB bearings
* too much or too little preload on my cranks
* crunchy main pivot bearings
* not enough clearance between chainguide and swingarm (added 1mm spacer to push chainguide out)

How do you get correct preload on the XT cranksets with the little plastic doohickey? I don't have the correct tool so I kinda wedge a wrench in there that works enough to get it tight before I then torque the crank arm bolts. Clearly i'm not torquing the doohickey to the right spec. I bet thats where my creak is coming from.

I took apart the crankset about a week ago and checked the BB bearings thinking they were shot. The XT BB that comes on the bike is like a $25 dollar part so I thought it must be shit already, but the bearings still spin smoothly.

[Boissal]

How do you get correct preload on the XT cranksets with the little plastic doohickey? I don't have the correct tool so I kinda wedge a wrench in there that works enough to get it tight before I then torque the crank arm bolts. Clearly i'm not torquing the doohickey to the right spec. I bet thats where my creak is coming from.

Torque spec on that weird plastic part is 2.5 Nm which is basically nothing. I typically squeeze everything by hand, tighten the plastic part until there's resistance, go an extra 1/4 turn, and call it good. Never had an issue with a creak in the BB area. Sorry, not super helpful...

[El Chupacabra]

Anyone here used Taya brand chains? Any good?

Supposedly compatible with SRAM 12 speed mtn, so am considering picking up one for a backup.

[Thaleia]

Recently switched to tubeless after holding out for years.

After a tire failed and started leaking after a crash I started wondering if I should be carrying a spare tube, which led me to ponder - "if I've adapted to tubeless because there's less chance of a flat, and knowing that if I get a tubeless flat, installing a tube, trailside is going to be a major pita - why not just run inner tubes that are set up with sealant?"

Is this some big-brain stuff? No? Why not? (I'm being serious lol.)

[jacob_dbu]

I'm sure this has been asked before but I've got a rear derailleur that I just can't seem to get aligned to work right in all the gears. Just replaced the cassette, housing, and shifter. I've also straightened the hanger using a hanger alignment tool. Seems the RD works better if the hanger is slightly out of alignment - I played with it a bit.

Is the RD borked? Get a new one? Seems like a waste, but I guess maybe the cage is f'd.

[toast2266]

I'm sure this has been asked before but I've got a rear derailleur that I just can't seem to get aligned to work right in all the gears. Just replaced the cassette, housing, and shifter. I've also straightened the hanger using a hanger alignment tool. Seems the RD works better if the hanger is slightly out of alignment - I played with it a bit.

Is the RD borked? Get a new one? Seems like a waste, but I guess maybe the cage is f'd.

Sounds like a b-screw issue to me. Set b-screw tension with the gauge while the bike is sagged. If that doesn't fix it, ignore the gauge and fiddle with it until it shifts right.

[MegaStoke]

My first guess would be cable and housing. 12sp drivetrains are very sensitive to cable drag.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

1up rack is about 6 years old. When I bought the rack I had a 1-1/4" hitch and my truck the past 4 years has had a 2" hitch so I got one of the L shaped adapters direct from 1up.

Now I think in later iterations of this rack they changed the anti wobble mech? Whatever kind I have gets loose fast on FS roads. Like so fast I need to stop the truck every 3/4 mile and tighten the damn mech again. Ughh. The replacement part of the rack that actually goes into the hitch is $150. Damn. Is there another solution?

Actually I see that the anti wobble mech is still the same?

https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2-hi...h-side-plates/

[El Chupacabra]

Can you use one of these style anti rattle clamps on that rack with its adapter?
https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-5002...a-693753947949

These things work great.

[XXX-er]

Recently switched to tubeless after holding out for years.

After a tire failed and started leaking after a crash I started wondering if I should be carrying a spare tube, which led me to ponder - "if I've adapted to tubeless because there's less chance of a flat, and knowing that if I get a tubeless flat, installing a tube, trailside is going to be a major pita - why not just run inner tubes that are set up with sealant?"

Is this some big-brain stuff? No? Why not? (I'm being serious lol.)

i havent had a flat in a very long time but for tube or tubeless I have always carried a spare tube, patch kit and a real pump, becuz shit should work but it might not work

[singlesline]

1up rack is about 6 years old. When I bought the rack I had a 1-1/4" hitch and my truck the past 4 years has had a 2" hitch so I got one of the L shaped adapters direct from 1up.

Now I think in later iterations of this rack they changed the anti wobble mech? Whatever kind I have gets loose fast on FS roads. Like so fast I need to stop the truck every 3/4 mile and tighten the damn mech again. Ughh. The replacement part of the rack that actually goes into the hitch is $150. Damn. Is there another solution?

Actually I see that the anti wobble mech is still the same?

https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2-hi...h-side-plates/

sounds like another potential customer for my new product idea…

Little cap that clicks over the square piece and has a security Allen key inside to stop the bolt from loosening.

[North]

Whatever kind I have gets loose fast on FS roads. Like so fast I need to stop the truck every 3/4 mile and tighten the damn mech again. Ughh. The replacement part of the rack that actually goes into the hitch is $150. Damn. Is there another solution?

When I had the 1 1/4 + adaptor I found that the bolt connecting the adaptor to the rack was loosening. Check that and if it's loose Loctite it. I ultimately replaced my 1 1/4 system with the 2" bar. Don't think I needed new side plates but YMMV.

https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2in-hitch-bar/

Or flip the rack for what you paid, find somebody with a Rockymounts deal and grab their new offering. Looks solid.

[Dromond]

sounds like another potential customer for my new product idea…

Little cap that clicks over the square piece and has a security Allen key inside to stop the bolt from loosening.

Does anyone know if the bolt is actually what loosens and causes the problem? I guess you could mark/record the bolt position on install to confirm.

[singlesline]

The nice thing about the 2” bar is it takes a standard hitch pin

i always have a locking pin in there, so even if the rack loosens and starts wobbling, I know it isn’t going to fall off.

Does anyone know if the bolt is actually what loosens and causes the problem? I guess you could mark/record the bolt position on install to confirm.

I suppose I should confirm that before actually fabricating one of these.

[Eluder]

1up rack is about 6 years old. When I bought the rack I had a 1-1/4" hitch and my truck the past 4 years has had a 2" hitch so I got one of the L shaped adapters direct from 1up.

Now I think in later iterations of this rack they changed the anti wobble mech? Whatever kind I have gets loose fast on FS roads. Like so fast I need to stop the truck every 3/4 mile and tighten the damn mech again. Ughh. The replacement part of the rack that actually goes into the hitch is $150. Damn. Is there another solution?

Actually I see that the anti wobble mech is still the same?

https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2-hi...h-side-plates/

Buy the 2" and sell the 1 1/4" or get the doohicky that Chup posted up. Mountain biking is expensive.

[detrusor]

I’ve got a stem that is 1 1/4 steer tube that I want to use on an 1 1/8 steerer. Can’t find a shim…..do they exist?


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[toast2266]

I’ve got a stem that is 1 1/4 steer tube that I want to use on an 1 1/8 steerer. Can’t find a shim…..do they exist?


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https://planetcyclery.com/ritchey-st...gaAsEPEALw_wcB


Seems sketchy for any bike that will be ridden off road at speed. But [shrug].