Ask the experts

[Andeh]

Are people actually paying shops $250 every time they need some new pads and a bleed?

Like, if I buy a Specialized Rockhopper for $800, and I go back to the shop for service two years later and they tell me it’s going to be $250 just to replace the brake pads, I’m going to wonder WTF they’re smoking.

No, but I am friends with my local mechanic, and do a lot of my own service. If I didn't want to bleed my own brakes, it wouldn't cost me any more than a pack of beer and a requirement that I drink one and chat while he works.

[thedude2340]

Rear Brake Flush and Bleed 45 mins
Front Brake Flush and Bleed 45 mins
Pad Install 24 mins
Test ride and bed in brakes 10 mins.
So we are at 124 mins of labour at minimum, national average is $83.51/ hour.
Labor is $172.58
Shop consumables = $3.45
Brake pads Front $36
Brake Pads Rear $36

So $250 at minimum to service the brakes.
Add another $90 for rotors if needed.
So $340 with rotors.

Most likely why they quoted a replacement, you're more than halfway towards new brakes of equal level (old XT for new XT).

Whut

You lost me from the beginning, but really lost me at pad install 24 minutes.

And $72 for pads?

This is all ludicrous. I do my own, but last time I paid for a bleed it was 35 bones.

[Dee Hubbs]

And $72 for pads?

[rideit]

Do this.

[rideit]

[Dee Hubbs]

this^, and then sell the old ones on Pinkbike

[J. Barron DeJong]

No, but I am friends with my local mechanic, and do a lot of my own service. If I didn't want to bleed my own brakes, it wouldn't cost me any more than a pack of beer and a requirement that I drink one and chat while he works.

Yeah. This was actually a half serious question.

I’m really out of touch cause I do my own service, and thinking back on it, I’m not actually sure I’ve ever paid a shop for service: after I bought my first real bike from a shop, service was covered for the first year, and then a year later I was working at the shop…

I know we weren’t charging anywhere close to $250 almost 20 years ago, but really don’t have a clue what the going rate is today.

I still believe that if a customer were to buy an $800 bike and then be told some relatively routine maintenance is going to be $250 they’re likely to be shocked/pissed.

[toast2266]

If it takes a shop over two hours to install some pads and bleed a set of brakes, I'm finding a different shop.

I did a full overhaul on my brakes (full caliper and lever rebuild - new pistons, and all new seals) in about that same amount of time.

[Dee Hubbs]

Nobody is saying that your $800 hardtail is going to cost you a $250 brake bleed.

According to PBMA a bleed should cost $41.76 based on the national average.

My point is it can cost almost $250 to try to get a 12 year old set of brakes to kinda work, so the shop probably suggested to replace them.
YIts a tough rabbit hole who you open up the system, and the fluid is completely black, so you have to flush it completely. Then the new fluid now shows signs of seals breaking down with bits floating in the fresh fluid. Do you hope they aren't completely rotten and will leak, or a broken off piece of seal won't plug a crucial pathway? And you have to fight with a stuck piston, and when you break a ceramic piston you have to replace the caliper?
You sell them new pads, and new rotors, and a not charge them for all the labour you actually spend on the old brakes, and guess what.. they are are still old, with broken down seals, and will not perform as new ones.
When the customer comes back and say they are still spongy do you just bite the bullet and continue to bleed the for free, hoping one of these bleeds is a miracle and they suddenly become firm, or do you suggest new brakes?

Yes, the shop was out of line suggesting a $600 brake set for a 10+ year old bike, but that may be the only inventory they can currently get their hands on.

Yes, I believe something was lost in translation between what the shop told Mrs Danno, and how she relayed that information back at home.

[Danno]

Yes, I believe something was lost in translation between what the shop told Mrs Danno, and how she relayed that information back at home.

No matter what happened, that's a certainty.

[J. Barron DeJong]

Nobody is saying that your $800 hardtail is going to cost you a $250 brake bleed.

According to PBMA a bleed should cost $41.76 based on the national average.

My point is it can cost almost $250 to try to get a 12 year old set of brakes to kinda work, so the shop probably suggested to replace them.
YIts a tough rabbit hole who you open up the system, and the fluid is completely black, so you have to flush it completely. Then the new fluid now shows signs of seals breaking down with bits floating in the fresh fluid. Do you hope they aren't completely rotten and will leak, or a broken off piece of seal won't plug a crucial pathway? And you have to fight with a stuck piston, and when you break a ceramic piston you have to replace the caliper?
You sell them new pads, and new rotors, and a not charge them for all the labour you actually spend on the old brakes, and guess what.. they are are still old, with broken down seals, and will not perform as new ones.
When the customer comes back and say they are still spongy do you just bite the bullet and continue to bleed the for free, hoping one of these bleeds is a miracle and they suddenly become firm, or do you suggest new brakes?

Yes, the shop was out of line suggesting a $600 brake set for a 10+ year old bike, but that may be the only inventory they can currently get their hands on.

Yes, I believe something was lost in translation between what the shop told Mrs Danno, and how she relayed that information back at home.

Appreciate the clarification

[XXX-er]

No matter what happened, that's a certainty.

in general there are 2 kinds of TGR husbands

those who try to fix something that isnt a probelm

and those who stay the fuck out of it

so i noticed you were smart enough to stay the fuckout of it

I am trying to remember how the fuck i did it but way back in the day I would have to tell women the reason their selectric typwriter was throwing out dashes instead of the key they pressed was because their nails were too fucking long, same with them extra spaces your nails are too fucking long it was called " flicking"

I managed to sucessfully do this in spite of knowing nothing about/ what/ how women think assuming they think at all, it was my life 7 or 8 times a day for about 10 yars

and all these years later i still don't understand women

[rideit]

Do you wonder why you are single?
Because we don’t.

[XXX-er]

otoh you ^^ only own half of what you think you own

at least until she figures out what an asshole you are

then she might decide to take it all

[joetron]

Dee Hubs is spot on. This is a game of telephone with a shit ton of variables.
We generally charge $35 a bleed and wouldn’t charge for dropping in pads in during a bleed, because we’re pulling them anyways.
Sticky pistons get an extra charge.
SRAM and Shimano both have decent brakesets from $66-90 that are a great go-to for older Mtn bikes that don’t get hard and/or frequent riding.


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[detrusor]

Bleeding brakes is stupid easy. I say do it once yourself and if spongy get the deore’s and install yourself.


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[rideit]

otoh you ^^ only own half of what you think you own

at least until she figures out what an asshole you are

then she might decide to take it all

Oofdah

((((((((VIBES))))))))

[Andeh]

I'm trying to track down a creak. It sounds like it's coming from left side of crank area. Only happens when pedaling under load (seated or standing). No noise bouncing up and down. 2 weeks ago, I pulled the cranks, wiped everything down, regreased the BB (CK BSA 30), and put everything back together. The BB bearings felt smooth, and the purged grease looked clean. Cranks are eeWings, so no inserts or whatnot that might be debonding. A few rides later, the creak is back. I've swapped the pedals out now, and riding around on the streets by my house, it seems to have gone away, but when I disassembled the removed pedals, the little mini bearings are smooth and clean, and nothing seemed wrong. So I'm concerned I haven't found the real cause.

What other things should I try if the creak returns?

For cranks with a preload ring, do you apply anything to the threads (grease, anti-seize compound, queso), or leave it dry? Do you generally try to get as much preload as possible, or just do it up until it takes up the slack?

[detrusor]

My fox transfer post has always been sticky. It’s not an overtight seatpist collar, cable issue or grunge. Should have taken it right back 1.5 years ago. I just lived with it because I was riding.

Took it to shop today, needs to be sent in, the “nitrogen charge” is smoked. 1 year warranty. Fox is like 6 weeks out.

Is this for real? I guess I need to buy a post and have a spare?

Fuck fuck fuck


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[grskier]

I'm trying to track down a creak. It sounds like it's coming from left side of crank area. Only happens when pedaling under load (seated or standing). No noise bouncing up and down. 2 weeks ago, I pulled the cranks, wiped everything down, regreased the BB (CK BSA 30), and put everything back together. The BB bearings felt smooth, and the purged grease looked clean. Cranks are eeWings, so no inserts or whatnot that might be debonding. A few rides later, the creak is back. I've swapped the pedals out now, and riding around on the streets by my house, it seems to have gone away, but when I disassembled the removed pedals, the little mini bearings are smooth and clean, and nothing seemed wrong. So I'm concerned I haven't found the real cause.

What other things should I try if the creak returns?

For cranks with a preload ring, do you apply anything to the threads (grease, anti-seize compound, queso), or leave it dry? Do you generally try to get as much preload as possible, or just do it up until it takes up the slack?

New bike day bro


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[Phall]

Did you grease the attachment of the chainring to cranks? That’s been a pain point on some of my bikes, especially after desert trips. My go to PEMDAS on that type of creak is pedals/cleats interface(a few drops of lube on my pedal springs every few months, chainring/crank interface, then cranks themselves


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[Andeh]

Did you grease the attachment of the chainring to cranks? That’s been a pain point on some of my bikes, especially after desert trips. My go to PEMDAS on that type of creak is pedals/cleats interface(a few drops of lube on my pedal springs every few months, chainring/crank interface, then cranks themselves


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Did not remove the chainring and apply fresh ASC, but that makes sense. I'll give that a shot too. Pedals are flats so no springs or cleats to be creaking.

[Phall]

I know it’s not left side but that’s my first go to. Also check all pivots too.


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[east or bust]

wtf is this brand?





imagine having a logo so shitty, potential customers can't even figure out how to spell it

[Phall]

Sensus. Really good grips, actually. Cam Zink’s company. I have a set on a bike currently that I really like.


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