Ask the experts

[toast2266]

Ok, so my new bike (GG Gnarvana) is sick. One fairly mellow 10 mile loop, but I am stoked so far. Only gripe is the Zeb Select fork. Figured this would be an immediate upgrade anyway.

Spend the time swapping out the damper to an upgraded Charger 2.1 or just bag it and get the Factory 38 and call it done?

I'd vote go for the 38. I've run both back to back on the same bike (zeb ultimate vs 38 factory) and preferred the 38 by a bigger margin than I expected. Zeb is stiffer, but it always just kinda felt dead and lifeless to me. The 38 has better small bump sensitivity without giving up support, and it feels smoother through chatter. I love my 38 more than I've loved any other fork in a while.

And for whatever it's worth, I have no real preference between the 36/ lyrik or 34/ pike. They each feel a little different, but I'm 100% happy on any of those, with maybe some minor preferences depending on the specific application. So my fox preference on the 38/zeb matchup doesn't extend to the rest of the lineup.

[Beaver]

I've got a 38 on my Rallon. First ride on it today, oh baby, it just eats chunder.

[jm2e]

38 vs 36?
I’ve had a bunch of 36s and have always been very happy with them. All 160s, but my wife has a 170 and a 180 and she likes hers even more. I’m all about heavier burlier stuff, but this is one thing where I haven’t been thinking I need more.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[toast2266]

38 vs 36?
I’ve had a bunch of 36s and have always been very happy with them. All 160s, but my wife has a 170 and a 180 and she likes hers even more. I’m all about heavier burlier stuff, but this is one thing where I haven’t been thinking I need more.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

If you'd asked me before I got on the 38 if the 170mm 36 was "enough," I would've said yes - no question. But then I swapped to a 38. It's better. Tracks better, absorbs little bumps better, absorbs big bumps better. Just feels more controlled in every situation. Makes it apparent how much the 36 was flexing under loads.

It's also substantially heavier, so there's that. Personally, I'd stick with a 36 at 150 or 160mm, but I'd go to a 38 for anything longer travel than that.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Yeah, I weigh 175# kitted up and have had people say I could stick with the 36, but on really steep and rowdy I could feel my old 36 flex a lot. Plus I had a coil in my old 36 so an airsprung new 38 probably wouldn't weigh much more.

[Dantheman]

It's also substantially heavier, so there's that. Personally, I'd stick with a 36 at 150 or 160mm, but I'd go to a 38 for anything longer travel than that.

Unabashed Homerism:

I'd go Mezzer over 36 at any travel since it weighs the same. At 170+ go 38 if weight is no concern, but if it is, then Mezzer.

[D(C)]

Ok, so my new bike (GG Gnarvana) is sick. One fairly mellow 10 mile loop, but I am stoked so far. Only gripe is the Zeb Select fork. Figured this would be an immediate upgrade anyway.

Spend the time swapping out the damper to an upgraded Charger 2.1 or just bag it and get the Factory 38 and call it done?

I find the Luftkappe is a rather massive improvement for the Zeb. The stock air spring design results in difficulty balancing general support with feel off the top. The Luftkappe fixes that issue.

[HAB]

Secus makes a huge improvement to the Zeb. I like the damper in the Ultimate, and the chassis is great, but the stock air spring is really lacking in support.

I've also tried a Smashpot in one and it rides great, but it's a boat anchor

[meter-man]

Unabashed Homerism:

I'd go Mezzer over 36 at any travel since it weighs the same. At 170+ go 38 if weight is no concern, but if it is, then Mezzer.

I've owned Fox 36, Mezzer Pro (two of them), and Fox 38, and agree completely with this statement. The 38 is just insane - incredible small bump feel and big hit control. Stiffer and smooth. The Mezzer's mid-stroke support is awesome - the IRT does keep you riding HIGH.

No experience with Zeb, but the reviewers say Zeb+Secus is a great combo.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Pretty much sold on the 38 and they are in stock multiple places in a 180mm.

[XXX-er]

'm only 160lb, I went from fox 36/ fox shock to ZEB E-mtnb/ rockshox deluxe select and they are all great IME

the rockshox deluxe select was little wierd to setup cuz only 1 place to put air so you gotta cycle it as you add air or you end up half way thru the travel at rest, i think the ZEB was also like that but i figured it out

[evdog]

Don't recall who was interested in a medium spur, but there is a guy who posts in the Tacomaworld bike thread who is selling one. Possibly sold, but if you can appear interested and serious you might sneak in there.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...5155/page-1848

[bagtagley]

Pretty much sold on the 38 and they are in stock multiple places in a 180mm.

Get the Mezzer because at some point you’ll be convinced that it’s worth being able to switch to Smash mode and you’ll be glad that you can change your fork travel in a few minutes.

[VTskibum]

Get the Mezzer because at some point you’ll be convinced that it’s worth being able to switch to Smash mode and you’ll be glad that you can change your fork travel in a few minutes.

Where you riding Mezzer when we rode in the fall? Thought yours was running RS?

Btw - also sent ya a PM on different topic

[ClarkleberryFinn]

Can I get some dropper post advice please?

Got a 125mm dropper on my new bike, and it's not enough. Have to raise it ~6cm out of the seat tube for decent pedalling position when raised, but then it feels awkward and in the way when 'dropped' on the way down.

1. Can I assume therefore that a 170mm dropper will be around the right size for me?
2. Do more expensive droppers actually do anything better? I basically climb up once then descend once on most rides, so not exactly using it a bunch. Looking at PNW Components Loam (https://www.pnwcomponents.eu/collect...39264614547533) or OneUp V2 (https://eu.oneupcomponents.com/colle...ropper-post-v2) or SDG Tellis (https://sdgcomponents.com/products/t...32354231812201); is there any real reason to look at a (double the price) Fox Transfer or similar instead?
3. How to work out if a dropper will fit in my frame? I assume longer droppers also go deeper into the seat tube? Current dropper is a 125mm YT Postman which I believe is a re-branded SDG Tellis. I know it is 31.6mm (diameter), but not sure about insertion depth. The 170mm PNW Loam measures: total length 480mm; min insertion length 120mm; full insertion length 260mm. Bike is a YT Capra Core 3 (https://www.yt-industries.com/produc...r=101774#tech2) in size M, with 420mm seat tube. So full insertion (lol) of 260mm should be fine? Or do I need to check something else?
4. Any reason I can't use the current (internally routed) cable and lever already on my bike? Theoretically it looks like the cable 'plugs in' to the bottom of the dropper, so would save some installation faff? Or does it not work that way? Any issues mixing and matching brands of lever and brands of post?
5. If it's worth buying a new lever too, as I have Sram Guide R brakes the levers of which seem to be attached to the current dropper lever, I assume I'd be wanting the 'sram matchmaker' version of https://www.pnwcomponents.eu/collect...32087739105357 ?
6. Anything important I've been too stupid to consider?

Thanks!

[toast2266]

Put your current saddle at proper pedaling height. Measure from the top of the seat tube to the saddle rails. Any decent dropper will list the measurement from the bottom of the collar to the seat rails. That number needs to be smaller than the measurement you took of your current setup.

Now stick the tape measure down your seat tube to see how deep it is. Be careful, some frames just have little nub down there that keeps the seatpost from going too deep. Dropper posts will also list the length from bottom to collar. If that length is shorter than your seat tube measurement, you're all set. If it's longer, however much it's longer will stick out of the frame, so that needs to be added to your calculation above re: distance to seat rails.

Your existing lever will likely work. Some droppers put the cable nub at the lever end, some put it at the post end, so your lever just needs to be compatible with whatever you get in that regard.

Any of the droppers you listed are probably fine. I'm partial to the oneup. For a given drop, they're shorter than most of the other options.

[teledad]

Big fan of the PNW droppers, particularly the Loam. Short stack height, light weight, and works great. Also have a Bike Yoke Revive 2.0 which is a little smoother but ~$150 more.

[jackstraw]

Big fan of the PNW droppers, particularly the Loam. Short stack height, light weight, and works great. Also have a Bike Yoke Revive 2.0 which is a little smoother but ~$150 more.

Yeah, my new bike has a Loam. Only used it once, but I liked it. I also like my Fox Transfer and I can't believe I'm going to say this, but the newish Reverb I have has been flawless. I've despised my old ones and was annoyed my Bronson came with one, but damn it's pretty awesome.

[Dee Hubbs]

I can't believe I'm going to say this, but the newish Reverb I have has been flawless. I've despised my old ones and was annoyed my Bronson came with one, but damn it's pretty awesome.

They actually fixed the Reverb and made the latest C1 version pretty good. And when you get a little bit of post sag, the red vent tool (that should have been included) makes for an easy and quick fix to get the post firm again.

[toast2266]

I think we're mostly part the era of good and bad dropper posts - most of them seem pretty decent these days. It's mostly just a matter of whether you want a rebuildable post or a disposable cartridge style post.

[Dee Hubbs]

Can I get some dropper post advice please?

Got a 125mm dropper on my new bike, and it's not enough. Have to raise it ~6cm out of the seat tube for decent pedalling position when raised, but then it feels awkward and in the way when 'dropped' on the way down.

1. Can I assume therefore that a 170mm dropper will be around the right size for me?
2. Do more expensive droppers actually do anything better? I basically climb up once then descend once on most rides, so not exactly using it a bunch. Looking at PNW Components Loam (https://www.pnwcomponents.eu/collect...39264614547533) or OneUp V2 (https://eu.oneupcomponents.com/colle...ropper-post-v2) or SDG Tellis (https://sdgcomponents.com/products/t...32354231812201); is there any real reason to look at a (double the price) Fox Transfer or similar instead?
3. How to work out if a dropper will fit in my frame? I assume longer droppers also go deeper into the seat tube? Current dropper is a 125mm YT Postman which I believe is a re-branded SDG Tellis. I know it is 31.6mm (diameter), but not sure about insertion depth. The 170mm PNW Loam measures: total length 480mm; min insertion length 120mm; full insertion length 260mm. Bike is a YT Capra Core 3 (https://www.yt-industries.com/produc...r=101774#tech2) in size M, with 420mm seat tube. So full insertion (lol) of 260mm should be fine? Or do I need to check something else?
4. Any reason I can't use the current (internally routed) cable and lever already on my bike? Theoretically it looks like the cable 'plugs in' to the bottom of the dropper, so would save some installation faff? Or does it not work that way? Any issues mixing and matching brands of lever and brands of post?
5. If it's worth buying a new lever too, as I have Sram Guide R brakes the levers of which seem to be attached to the current dropper lever, I assume I'd be wanting the 'sram matchmaker' version of https://www.pnwcomponents.eu/collect...32087739105357 ?
6. Anything important I've been too stupid to consider?

Thanks!

I think most of the questions have been answered so far, but I'll go through every numbered question in detail.
I think measuring and finding the maximized dropper length is actually trick for the end consumer, even shops end up installing them and doing it by trial and error.

1) you need a measurement from your current fully extended post, measure the saddle rail to your frame collar. This is is your first crucial measurement. Make sure your required saddle to collar number is slightly less than the number offered by the size you're buying. You cant just go by "170 dropper" because the difference between seat collar and saddle rail can vary by 70-100mm between brands. Attached is an example of Fox Transfers Specs to see the measurements.


2) Almost all the mid priced droppers are decent, all the expensive ones are decent, avoid the bargain/lowest priced ones. You really have rebuildable ones, and disposable ones. Look to see if the dropper company has service option for their post, and consider that in your decision.

3) insertion depth is second crucial measurement. See the same diagram above as an example, most dropper brads have a good spec sheet listed with all the measurement. I like to use an old straight seat post as a depth gauge to see the maximum insertion point, its usually a frame bend, or a suspension pivot, or a bottle cage boss that stops the seat post from going deeper. Some frame manufactures list the maximum seat post depth in their specs.

4) DO NOT pull your cable out of the frame. This can be a major pain to reroute. The cable housing can stay, and you may just need to rerun just your inner cable. Most droppers can have the cable run in either direction, and it's the lever that determines which way the cable need to be run. Some dropper remotes need the cable end to be inserted in the dropper (like your shifter) and some dropper levers need the cable to be clamped in the lever (and some do both, and have a clamp and a recess for the cable end)
The dropper will come with a barrel to put the cable in the bottom of the post, and you can get usually use either a clamping barrel or a cable end barrel. Only one type will come with your dropper, but your bike shop should have one of the other version for a couple dollars if you need it.


It most likely won't be plug and play with your old cable, each brand has a specific measurement from the cable barrel to the cable ferrel, some are 10mm, some as much as 18mm. (in above diagram where it says "wire") I have a cheat sheet, and even made a cheat tool made for the common ones I assemble a lot of.

5) if you like your lever, keep it. Its mostly ergonomics. The main weak point on levers is the barrel adjusters, I'm not a fan of levers that have the barrel adjusters attached to a "J-Pipe", they are prone to breaking, and going out of adjustment.


6) the only other things I can think of is saddle rail compatibility. Steel, Cromo, and Ti rails are almost always 7mm round, and most carbon saddle rails are 7x9mm oval. If you have, or want to upgrade to a carbon rail saddle, some saddle clamps will not accept a 7x9 rail.
And the saddle top to saddle rail measurements can be crucial. Some saddles are really low, like 38 mm from rails to top, and some are as much as 55mm. If you maximize the length of your dropper to the mm, and you need a new seat, you can be limited to finding a new seat as low (or lower) than your original seat. (ask me how I learned that the hard way).

[toast2266]

And the saddle top to saddle rail measurements can be crucial. Some saddles are really low, like 38 mm from rails to top, and some are as much as 55mm. If you maximize the length of your dropper to the mm, and you need a new seat, you can be limited to finding a new seat as low (or lower) than your original seat. (ask me how I learned that the hard way).

Just add 10mm shims to your pedal cleats.

[Dee Hubbs]

Just add 10mm shims to your pedal cleats.

Or trim 10mm off of top the carbon seat post collar [emoji15]

I mis calculated by 17 mm and was stuck with a new (installed and ridden once) $300 post.
Shorten cranks by 5mm, lowest stack saddle I could find, 1mm shims on my cleats, and I was still too long…..

[toast2266]

Or trim 10mm off of top the carbon seat post collar [emoji15]

I mis calculated by 17 mm and was stuck with a new (installed and ridden once) $300 post.
Shorten cranks by 5mm, lowest stack saddle I could find, 1mm shims on my cleats, and I was still too long…..

Femoral extensions.

[Dee Hubbs]

Femoral extensions.

I’m in if it’s 2 for 1 extensions and calf implants.