Ask the experts

[VTskibum]

Definitely pumped up to max in either scenario. It’s the same bike so not two hardtails, just different wheels sets. Think I’ll go Opt 1 first. Short rear for a 29er end at 420mm so thinking it’ll work pretty good.

Not nearly enough N+1 encouragement as I thought either.


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[toast2266]

Not nearly enough N+1 encouragement as I thought either.

Well since you asked...

Dirt jump bikes are pretty cheap, they're not particularly prone to becoming outdated, and they're not maintenance intensive. Buy a dirt jumper now and it'll still be just as good 10 years from now. Even if you don't ride it a ton, it's a nice bike to have in the quiver.

[VTskibum]

Thanks Toast… pretty sure I’ll pull the trigger on something just for the rationale that my kids will be big enough to ride it imminently as well.

Dark horse option I just pulled together though… old 70* HTA 29x2.2 fast rolling 2010 Lynskey Pro 29.

[toast2266]

^^^ put a shorter stem and maybe a riser bar on that thing and it'd be an entirely serviceable jumper.

[simple]

^^^ put a shorter stem and maybe a riser bar on that thing and it'd be an entirely serviceable jumper.

Until those 29er Crest rims explode. It was light when it was in the air! And then boom!

[VTskibum]

I’m not heavy but the crests are pumping only, no DJ for sure. Will scrounge up a shorter stem for this week if I can find one.

Was spectating a CX race this afternoon and after a few beers was manual-ing my sons 24”… pretty sure there’s a DJ in my future.


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[Huskier]

Rear tire slow air leak. Bad enough to go from 27 psi->14psi over the span of 2 hrs. No tire punctures, good rim. Already tried dumping more sealant in. Playing odds: Bad valve or tape job? If I'm already pulling the valve do I bother re-taping or would a visual inspection suffice?

[simple]

Spray bottle with soapy water. Stop guessing

[toast2266]

I prefer guessing. And I'm guessing bad tape.

[Falcon3]

My bet’s on a valve. Maybe I’m bad at getting valves sealed but I’ve never had a tape leak and always had a valve leak. If you wiggle the valve around a tiny bit or try loosening or tightening the nut on it, it’ll make a hiss and confirm it for you. I may start using shoe goo from now to seal the head on as it’s been amazing at sealing pinch flats and is super easy to remove if needed

Or i could “invest” $50 per valve stem on those fancy ones….

[XXX-er]

I'm looking for leaks in dry suits but a leak is a leak (?) so I would air up a suit and the best way to find that leak is to hold it up close to my face cuz the face is very sensitive but a spray bottle of water with a squirt of dish soap is next level at finding leaks I would miss without soapy water

I was recently in the vegy dept at safeway where the stock person is in the way so I said " excuse me , I need to take a leek " so a leek is not always a leak

[toast2266]

My bet’s on a valve. Maybe I’m bad at getting valves sealed but I’ve never had a tape leak and always had a valve leak. If you wiggle the valve around a tiny bit or try loosening or tightening the nut on it, it’ll make a hiss and confirm it for you. I may start using shoe goo from now to seal the head on as it’s been amazing at sealing pinch flats and is super easy to remove if needed

Or i could “invest” $50 per valve stem on those fancy ones….

If you take a rubber mallet or a block of wood and tap on the valve (from the inside / tire side of the rim), it'll help seat it. Substantially cuts down on leaky valves.

[Dantheman]

What's the consensus on generic carbon rigid forks? My commuter has a steel fork that probably weighs 3-4 lbs, so swapping to a carbon one saves 2+ lbs for $100. Some threads on MTBR and Singletracks have good things to say but reviews on Amazon are decidedly mixed, mostly due to QC issues with the caliper mounts.

Some options I'm considering:
https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Tape...-38&th=1&psc=1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12438757913...3ABFBM2JGcmqlf
https://www.ebay.com/itm/30310401186...3ABFBMrsfxlqlf

[Touring_Sedan]

What's the consensus on generic carbon rigid forks? My commuter has a steel fork that probably weighs 3-4 lbs, so swapping to a carbon one saves 2+ lbs for $100. Some threads on MTBR and Singletracks have good things to say but reviews on Amazon are decidedly mixed, mostly due to QC issues with the caliper mounts.

Some options I'm considering:
https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Tape...-38&th=1&psc=1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12438757913...3ABFBM2JGcmqlf
https://www.ebay.com/itm/30310401186...3ABFBMrsfxlqlf

I haven't had any trouble with the one on my Fatbike, but don't know if I'd trust it for continuous road use. The fit and finish isn't great. Face first into the snow @ 10mph would be a bit different than face first into the pavement @40mph.

[VTskibum]

Check the Luesher_teknik Instagram page and those are generally big name brands. Generic steel or even ti NBD. But for me I want name brand Carbon if only bc if there’s something really bad happening would be well known enough. Just hopefully not be the first for it to happen to.

Carbon forks a plenty in my house, including rigid Niner MTB. Don’t think I’d take the risk myself, especially for a commuter where reliability is king.

YMMV (edit) and Whiskey mentioned down below isn’t generic in that sense since it’s house brand of QBP(?) compared to the eBay sellers. Know a few people who’ve had good luck w those


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[climberevan]

I've used a generic version of the Whiskey fork on my SS 29er for years. The carbon steerer seems to be undersized (stem won't tighten enough), but it hasn't killed me. It's way at the bottom of the (long) list of bikes to ride though, so it gets very little use.

[Huskier]

What's the consensus on generic carbon rigid forks? My commuter has a steel fork that probably weighs 3-4 lbs, so swapping to a carbon one saves 2+ lbs for $100. Some threads on MTBR and Singletracks have good things to say but reviews on Amazon are decidedly mixed, mostly due to QC issues with the caliper mounts.

Some options I'm considering:
https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Tape...-38&th=1&psc=1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12438757913...3ABFBM2JGcmqlf
https://www.ebay.com/itm/30310401186...3ABFBMrsfxlqlf

Been running one on my commuter since 2014 I got off of Nashbar. Flawless. Nothing bad at all to say.

[Dantheman]

I haven't had any trouble with the one on my Fatbike, but don't know if I'd trust it for continuous road use. The fit and finish isn't great. Face first into the snow @ 10mph would be a bit different than face first into the pavement @40mph.

Don’t think I’d take the risk myself, especially for a commuter where reliability is king.

My commute route is pretty flat so I don't go faster than 25 mph often. But, catastrophic fork failure at 25 mph would still be a bad time. My thinking was that since these are intended for MTB they'd be overbuilt for road use and unlikely to spontaneously combust, but maybe I'm wrong there? I put about 2,000 mi/yr on this bike.

Been running one on my commuter since 2014 I got off of Nashbar. Flawless. Nothing bad at all to say.

No issues with the caliper mounts being off-spec? A number of people reported being unable to set up the caliper without rubbing.

[Touring_Sedan]

My commute route is pretty flat so I don't go faster than 25 mph often. But, catastrophic fork failure at 25 mph would still be a bad time. My thinking was that since these are intended for MTB they'd be overbuilt for road use and unlikely to spontaneously combust, but maybe I'm wrong there? I put about 2,000 mi/yr on this bike.



No issues with the caliper mounts being off-spec? A number of people reported being unable to set up the caliper without rubbing.

You can justify it all you want, but I wouldn't trust it. All three cheap chinese carbon items I've purchased have failed in different ways. The bottom bracket on my fatbike delaminated from the frame... twice. The carbon fork is fraying around where the inserts for the axle are bonded to the through lowers. The double walled carbon rim cracked through the inner wall. I still don't feel ripped off, I got what I paid for. That being said, I'm too old to fall on pavement and while I'll risk it on the fatty, I wouldn't on the roadie.

[east or bust]

Is 3 lbs worth your face?

Isn’t to me..


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[Dantheman]

The carbon fork is fraying around where the inserts for the axle are bonded to the through lowers.

Yikes. I suppose spending any money to drop weight off this bike is somewhat silly. It has fenders, frame bag, saddle bag and a lock hanging off it at all times.

[Touring_Sedan]

Yikes. I suppose spending any money to drop weight off this bike is somewhat silly. It has fenders, frame bag, saddle bag and a lock hanging off it at all times.

You know there are cheaper and easier ways to drop weight.

[Dantheman]

You know there are cheaper and easier ways to drop weight.

[tellybele]

If you live life on the cheap, the cheap is gonna get you...one way or another. I've never understood that sort of reasoning; sure, 'cheap' has its place, like maybe paper plates or something similar.

[Dantheman]

If you live life on the cheap, the cheap is gonna get you...one way or another. I've never understood that sort of reasoning; sure, 'cheap' has its place, like maybe paper plates or something similar.

Well, in this day and age things are often coming from the same factory and the only difference is the label. Regardless, it's probably not worth spending any money making this bike lighter. If anything I should strap weights to it and get a harder workout.