Ask the experts

[Pinned]

Anyone have experience running E13 cranks with Shimano 12sp drivetrain?

New bike is coming with E13 TRS Race Carbon cranks, the rest of the drivetrain is XTR. I’ve heard of some issues with 12sp Shimano chains not always playing nice with ‘universal’ 12sp rings. Should I be concerned that this could be an issue with this particular crankset?

Also, the frame is BB92, so this is the 30mm axle in 41mm shell which only allows small bearings for the BB. I know this isn’t ideal from a longevity standpoint, but real world is it an issue? Will bearings be shitting the bed every few months? (For context, I’ve only every had to replace one worn BB on one of my bikes, so I’m not super hard on them)

Alternative would probably be to try and switch out for XT cranks/BB if it would work better/last significantly longer, and if I’m going to end up going down that road anyway, I’d rather do it up front when I can still sell the E13 carbon cranks while they look nice. Of course sourcing Shimano cranks right now presents a problem in and of itself.

It will all work fine until the BB starts creaking (because all pressfit BBs do eventually) and then I'd deal with it. If it happens in 500mi then yes, try to get a different crank with bigger bearings. If it lasts 4 seasons...well shoot that's awesome and then just replace the BB (or the whole bike at that point).

[smmokan]

There's a Shimano conversion kit to their bar clamp. It's a new plastic top to the shifter, 3 microscopic bolts, and the clamp... for like $35 or so.

Ah, of course.... it costs as much as a new SLX shifter.

[Boissal]

Make sure the pedal plate screws are all snug and plates are not bent/worn.

Pedal follow-up: I managed to bend the axle which holds the springs and the rear half of the clipping mechanism. It's a long small diameter screw with a very short threaded section that comes in just to the side of the main axle itself.
I imagine it took a serious pedal strike to do it. The axle got forced out of the hole that holds in in place on the outside of the pedal and it de-tensioned one of the springs which explains the erratic releases. I pulled it out, bent it back, then fought with the pedal for a while to get it back in. The springs are under quite a bit of tension even in the loosest setting, some choice words were used.

[anotherVTskibum]

I'm getting back into mountain biking after being effectively out for about two decades (last proper mountain bike I owned was a Proflex), having managed to find a decently spec'd and reasonably priced used bike (Motobecane Hal CF 27.5) on Facebook Marketplace. In the interim, I got into motorcycles and also did a fair bit of wrenching on four-wheeled vehicles, so I have a decent vehicle-oriented toolset, but I'm in jong world when it comes to current MTB tech.

I do also own a road bike, but that hasn't required a whole lot of maintenance and doesn't have a whole lot in common with the tech on a modern mountain bike.

So, all that said, are there any particular gotcha tools, spare parts or shop supplies particular to bikes that I should be acquiring before I need them, given supply chains being what they are? I already learned that pedals, despite being 15mm fasteners, don't exactly work with normal wrenches, and that my shock pump (which I had for moto suspension) has gone MIA, so I've purchased a pedal wrench and a shock pump.

I'm guessing I'll need a bike-specific kit whenever it becomes time to bleed the brakes and some form of chain cleaning and lubing setup...anything else I should be looking at? Being able to plan things is helpful in the spousal budget-approval process; her encouragement in getting a mountain bike only has limited extension to expenditures required to continue mountain biking.

[toast2266]

I'm getting back into mountain biking after being effectively out for about two decades (last proper mountain bike I owned was a Proflex), having managed to find a decently spec'd and reasonably priced used bike (Motobecane Hal CF 27.5) on Facebook Marketplace. In the interim, I got into motorcycles and also did a fair bit of wrenching on four-wheeled vehicles, so I have a decent vehicle-oriented toolset, but I'm in jong world when it comes to current MTB tech.

I do also own a road bike, but that hasn't required a whole lot of maintenance and doesn't have a whole lot in common with the tech on a modern mountain bike.

So, all that said, are there any particular gotcha tools, spare parts or shop supplies particular to bikes that I should be acquiring before I need them, given supply chains being what they are? I already learned that pedals, despite being 15mm fasteners, don't exactly work with normal wrenches, and that my shock pump (which I had for moto suspension) has gone MIA, so I've purchased a pedal wrench and a shock pump.

I'm guessing I'll need a bike-specific kit whenever it becomes time to bleed the brakes and some form of chain cleaning and lubing setup...anything else I should be looking at? Being able to plan things is helpful in the spousal budget-approval process; her encouragement in getting a mountain bike only has limited extension to expenditures required to continue mountain biking.

Pedals can also (usually) be handled with a metric hex wrench on the inside of the crank / spindle.

Bike tools in order of actual usefulness
-Metric hex wrenches
-Torx wrenches (rarely bigger than a T25)
-Tire levers (normal plastic ones + one big one for stubborn bastards)
-A good / accurate pressure gauge, if your pump doesn't have one
-Shock pump
-Work Stand
-Brake bleeding kit (which is somewhat specific to your brake brand)
-Cassette lockring tool
-Chainwhip
-Spoke wrenches (there's a couple different sizes)
-Bottom bracket tool (there's a couple different standards here)
-Pedal wrench (some pedals, particularly older ones, don't have hex fittings on the spindle)

Useful, but used fairly rarely. Probably fine with not owning these unless you really like working on bikes.
-Wheel truing stand
-Bearing press
-Chunk of PVC pipe for setting headset races
-Headset and BB removal tools
-Hanger alignment tool

Tools that will solve most problems:
Hammer
Block of wood
Rubber mallet (for carbon)

[rideit]

Don’t forget
Angle Grinder
Gorilla Tape

[VTskibum]

Generally agree w/ Toast's list (might bump Cassette lockring tool and chainwhip higher and brake bleed kit down a few, but that's nitpicking. Will say that one of the best tools you should buy is the chain wear measuring devices, even the cheap ones so you don't have to replace expensive chainrings and especially cassettes earlier. In the list above would put that right under work stand.

[toast2266]

Will say that one of the best tools you should buy is the chain wear measuring devices, even the cheap ones so you don't have to replace expensive chainrings and especially cassettes earlier. In the list above would put that right under work stand.

That one falls into my category of "tools that a shop is more than happy to lend me for 10 seconds, so I don't need to own it myself."

In my experience, any shop will check your chain wear for free since if it's worn, they get to sell you a chain.

[Andeh]

A couple more basic additions (for cutting bars & steerer tubes):
hacksaw
adjustable diameter saw guide

[Conundrum]

Like they have chains to sell you.

[ticketchecker]

adjustable diameter saw guide

Is there a cheaper way to go here than the $50 Park one?

I was just looking at these today


Sent from the Utility Muffin Research Kitchen

[teledad]

Any recommendations on a 31.8 carbon bar?

Brand X is similar weight and half the price of the name brands (shipped to the US). Been riding one since August and haven't died yet.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod193202

[teledad]

adjustable diameter saw guide

Is there a cheaper way to go here than the $50 Park one?

Hose clamp. Or just some carefully applied electrical tape. Making sure the saw blade is sharp (and fine tooth) is more important than a guide IMO. Might want a file to smooth out the cut edge as well.

[Dee Hubbs]

Is there a cheaper way to go here than the $50 Park one?
I was just looking at these today

If it's for handle bars, just use 2 old grip lock-ons as guides.
If its for your steerer 2 old stems work as guides.

OR buy a pipe cutter for $20. The pipe cutter uses material displacement to "cut" instead of removing material, so it pushes/creates a lip in the inside of the cut. This is fine for handle bars, but if you're cutting a steerer tube you will have to file off the lip before punching in a star nut. OR you could use an inner outer pipe reamer.
I now know where all my money goes.... tools. I'm a self proclaimed bike tool nerd. I'll post some photos of my tools soon...

And if you're cutting carbon handle bars, get a carbon blade, and wear a mask, carbon dust is worst than asbestus for your lungs. A carbon blade has micro diamonds that abrade the carbon, where as a standard saw blade will rip the carbon.

[bagtagley]

^^^Pipe cutter FTW.

[Dantheman]

Can't use a pipe cutter on carbon.

[Dumbest Known Time]

Anyone have experience running E13 cranks with Shimano 12sp drivetrain?

New bike is coming with E13 TRS Race Carbon cranks, the rest of the drivetrain is XTR. I’ve heard of some issues with 12sp Shimano chains not always playing nice with ‘universal’ 12sp rings. Should I be concerned that this could be an issue with this particular crankset?

Also, the frame is BB92, so this is the 30mm axle in 41mm shell which only allows small bearings for the BB. I know this isn’t ideal from a longevity standpoint, but real world is it an issue? Will bearings be shitting the bed every few months? (For context, I’ve only every had to replace one worn BB on one of my bikes, so I’m not super hard on them)

Alternative would probably be to try and switch out for XT cranks/BB if it would work better/last significantly longer, and if I’m going to end up going down that road anyway, I’d rather do it up front when I can still sell the E13 carbon cranks while they look nice. Of course sourcing Shimano cranks right now presents a problem in and of itself.

I'm running an XT drivetrain with the TRS Race cranks. It works in the sense that it has never caused me to miss a ride because its FUBAR but I do sometimes wonder if I'm missing out on the full hyperglide experience. Seems like a lot of the hype around the new Shimano 12s stuff focused on its incredible ability to shift under power and I don't get much of that. Would love to ride a buddies with with a full Shimano getup to see if there's anything I'm missing but the opportunity hasn't presented itself yet.

If you really wanted to make the e13 cranks work, a Wolftooth makes a replacement spider that lets you run their Shimano specific chainrings. Of course it's out of stock with an ETA of Halloween so this is mostly a theoretical.

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...spider-for-e13
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...32207503556643

[J. Barron DeJong]

It will all work fine until the BB starts creaking (because all pressfit BBs do eventually) and then I'd deal with it. If it happens in 500mi then yes, try to get a different crank with bigger bearings. If it lasts 4 seasons...well shoot that's awesome and then just replace the BB (or the whole bike at that point).

Thanks. I’ll plan on keeping it as is.

[J. Barron DeJong]

I'm running an XT drivetrain with the TRS Race cranks. It works in the sense that it has never caused me to miss a ride because its FUBAR but I do sometimes wonder if I'm missing out on the full hyperglide experience. Seems like a lot of the hype around the new Shimano 12s stuff focused on its incredible ability to shift under power and I don't get much of that. Would love to ride a buddies with with a full Shimano getup to see if there's anything I'm missing but the opportunity hasn't presented itself yet.

If you really wanted to make the e13 cranks work, a Wolftooth makes a replacement spider that lets you run their Shimano specific chainrings. Of course it's out of stock with an ETA of Halloween so this is mostly a theoretical.

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...spider-for-e13
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...32207503556643

Replied to Pinned before seeing this response. Nice to know about the Wolftooth option if I need it in the future.

Regarding the shifting, not sure how the cranks/chainring would affect shifting performance at the rear (strange things do happen though).

[ticketchecker]

Can't use a pipe cutter on carbon.

How about a grinder with a cutting wheel?

Mask for sure

EDIT: bought a 32T hacksaw blade, now where the fuck did I put those old lock on grips...


Sent from the Utility Muffin Research Kitchen

[jackstraw]

Will this one connect a Reverb (Sram guide matchmaker) to a Shimano XT 8100 maybe? The 8100 is I-Spec EV I believe and it doesn't list that one. I can't seem to find the exact one I'm looking for.
https://problemsolversbike.com/produ...smatch_-_30797

[robnow]

Will this one connect a Reverb (Sram guide matchmaker) to a Shimano XT 8100 maybe? The 8100 is I-Spec EV I believe and it doesn't list that one. I can't seem to find the exact one I'm looking for.
https://problemsolversbike.com/produ...smatch_-_30797

With just a hair of grinding, a SRAM Matchmaker for the Reverb will mate perfectly with I-Spec (XTR anyway and XT should be the same).

[jackstraw]

With just a hair of grinding, a SRAM Matchmaker for the Reverb will mate perfectly with I-Spec (XTR anyway and XT should be the same).

Ahhh! I didn't even think or look at that possibility! Thanks. I'll check that out.

[climberevan]

How about a grinder with a cutting wheel?

Mask for sure

EDIT: bought a 32T hacksaw blade, now where the fuck did I put those old lock on grips...


Sent from the Utility Muffin Research Kitchen

A grinder with an abrasive disc goes through a carbon steerer like butter. An old stem makes a perfect guide. Just do it outside and hold your breath for the 3 seconds it takes.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using TGR Forums mobile app

[HAB]

That one falls into my category of "tools that a shop is more than happy to lend me for 10 seconds, so I don't need to own it myself."

In my experience, any shop will check your chain wear for free since if it's worn, they get to sell you a chain.

Alternately, it also falls into the category of "tools that are basically a slightly easier to use ruler". I have a good ruler already.