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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #3876
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    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    I’ve got a deep fryer. I lightly batter my chain and cables in egg white and bread crumbs then fry until golden brown. Also makes killer corn dogs.
    Corn dogs and queso?? I feel that could be amazing


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  2. #3877
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    This is correct. You could also probably add a spacer between the topout bumper and negative spring plate to increase the negative chamber volume as you described, then add an MRP Fulfill valve (basically replaces the foot stud with a Schrader valve, so you set negative air pressure independently) but without that, the negative chamber won't pressurize correctly.

    I'm guessing the discussion you're referencing was about the ~2015 vintage forks, which didn't use a dimple for negative pressure equalization, so you could basically do what you're describing.
    I looked up the MRP FulFill as I wasn’t familiar with it. It says it’s compatible with 2017 forks and older, since newer forks with the transfer dimple would just equalize at topout. But your idea of spacing the negative spring such that the air piston head never reaches the equalization dimple then using the Fullfill to set negative pressure is an interesting one.

    Do you know if there is a similar product to the FulFill that works on Rockshox forks? It would be neat to try something like that on my Zeb, which rides like it has a bunch of preload at topout.

  3. #3878
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandbox View Post
    Corn dogs and queso?? I feel that could be amazing
    I felt the same. That feeling, it turns out, is incorrect.

  4. #3879
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    Quote Originally Posted by EWG View Post
    I felt the same. That feeling, it turns out, is incorrect.
    Like, how incorrect? It didn’t taste good or it destroyed your insides??


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  5. #3880
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandbox View Post
    Like, how incorrect? It didn’t taste good or it destroyed your insides??


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    It's just horrible for your drivetrain. Corndogs are better for tubeless inserts than chain lube.
    However many are in a shit ton.

  6. #3881
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandbox View Post
    Corn dogs and queso?? I feel that could be amazing


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    Remember those hot dogs with the cheese filling? Just make those into corn dogs.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  7. #3882
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Remember those hot dogs with the cheese filling? Just make those into corn dogs.
    The premise of this thread is that everyone's an expert in something. I am an expert in corn dogs.

    You, my friend, are in for a treat. Check out any Maverick or Flying J truck stop and you will find Jalapeno Cheese Corn Dogs.

  8. #3883
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Remember those hot dogs with the cheese filling? Just make those into corn dogs.
    Remember them!?!? I think I ate one last week.... more smoky and less hotdog ( whitetrash fancy). But shit those into a corn dog would be solid


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  9. #3884
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Remember those hot dogs with the cheese filling? Just make those into corn dogs.
    Remember them? Why would I ever eat anything else? I only buy cheese infused health missiles.

  10. #3885
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Anyone running a hotdog roller in their shop? Seems more practical than cheese fondue.
    I’ve been doing my Zwift rides on my modded smart hot dog rollers


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  11. #3886
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    What makes a chain feel "rough" if it's not dirty and is shifting fine? I have a new (less than 50 miles) ride with a GRX derailleur. It felt great right off the bat. Now it is beginning to feel like the chain is not moving smoothly. In other words, it feels almost like the chain is sticky or catching on itself, but it is well oiled (not waxed or queso'd) and it moves smoothly with no load, and it appears to be in the right spot on each cog.

    I tried adjusting the tension and it sort of helps in that particular gear but then it feels rough in a different gear. I I am almost positive it is not the bottom bracket because it does not happen in every gear all the time.

  12. #3887
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    What makes a chain feel "rough" if it's not dirty and is shifting fine? I have a new (less than 50 miles) ride with a GRX derailleur. It felt great right off the bat. Now it is beginning to feel like the chain is not moving smoothly. In other words, it feels almost like the chain is sticky or catching on itself, but it is well oiled (not waxed or queso'd) and it moves smoothly with no load, and it appears to be in the right spot on each cog.

    I tried adjusting the tension and it sort of helps in that particular gear but then it feels rough in a different gear. I I am almost positive it is not the bottom bracket because it does not happen in every gear all the time.
    Sounds like a pia to solve. Did you try moving each link to see if one or more is sticky?

  13. #3888
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    No, that's a good option. I will try it. But the thing is that it feels totally fine sometimes...in some gears.

  14. #3889
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    Just the chain is new, or is the entire drivetrain new?

    If new chain and used drivetrain -- a new chain "wears in" to an old drivetrain, and is often noisier initially.

    If new chain and used, potentially damaged drivetrain -- watch very closely as you spin the chain backwards and forwards, looking for the chain hanging up on a bent tooth or burr on a chainring or cog. File smooth or bend straight anything damaged, if possible. Check every cog.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  15. #3890
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    It's all new.

    Also, I really like this thread. Thanks for entertaining my jong/moron mechanic questions.

  16. #3891
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    What makes a chain feel "rough" if it's not dirty and is shifting fine? I have a new (less than 50 miles) ride with a GRX derailleur. It felt great right off the bat. Now it is beginning to feel like the chain is not moving smoothly. In other words, it feels almost like the chain is sticky or catching on itself, but it is well oiled (not waxed or queso'd) and it moves smoothly with no load, and it appears to be in the right spot on each cog.

    I tried adjusting the tension and it sort of helps in that particular gear but then it feels rough in a different gear. I I am almost positive it is not the bottom bracket because it does not happen in every gear all the time.
    A couple guesses:

    1) If your chainline isn't great, the chain can be a little chunky in the top two cogs (that have a narrow wide profile). Put the chain in the middle cog and sight down it from the rear to see if it's more or less straight coming off the chainring.

    2) Even if your chainline is fine, sometimes I find that the top two cogs are a little crunchy when new. This generally goes away after a couple rides after some natural de-burring occurs.

    3) On many of the 12 speed Sram cassettes, I find there is a tooth conflict when the chain is on the 9th cog - wide links on the chain will contact a couple of the teeth on the 8th cog. This will make the chain skip a little bit. In my experience, this only happens on that one cog. You can solve this by using a punch to slightly bend the offending teeth on the 8th cog. This is all based on my experience with GX and X01 cassettes - it might not be a problem or occur in a different gear combo on a GRX cassette.

    4) a sticky derailleur pulley can hang up and cause the chain the skip over the teeth on the pulley, which in turn means that the narrow wide teeth of the pulley don't line up with the chain. This feels very rumble-y, and isn't always immediately obvious.

  17. #3892
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    Ask the experts

    Echo that this thread is great, we could use one in Tech Talk.

    Best budget-ish chamois liner in today’s market?

  18. #3893
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    3) On many of the 12 speed Sram cassettes, I find there is a tooth conflict when the chain is on the 9th cog - wide links on the chain will contact a couple of the teeth on the 8th cog. This will make the chain skip a little bit. In my experience, this only happens on that one cog. You can solve this by using a punch to slightly bend the offending teeth on the 8th cog. This is all based on my experience with GX and X01 cassettes - it might not be a problem or occur in a different gear combo on a GRX cassette.
    Bending teeth ? Wouldn't a file work better/safer? I have had something similar with chain links rubbing very slightly on the the second smallest cog of all 10 speed cassettes on my current bike when the chain is on the smallest cog (two XTR, one SRAM 1099), even after rejigging my chainline slightly. I thought about filing them but I never notice it on the road/trail and only really when lubing my chain so i doesn't bother me enough to actually do it.

  19. #3894
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    Quote Originally Posted by LC View Post
    Bending teeth ? Wouldn't a file work better/safer? I have had something similar with chain links rubbing very slightly on the the second smallest cog of all 10 speed cassettes on my current bike when the chain is on the smallest cog (two XTR, one SRAM 1099), even after rejigging my chainline slightly. I thought about filing them but I never notice it on the road/trail and only really when lubing my chain so i doesn't bother me enough to actually do it.
    On the GX / X01 Eagle, I think it works better to bend them slightly. It doesn't take much of a tweak at all - if you're looking at it and see the conflict, it makes more sense. I just used a punch centered on the tooth and a couple quick taps. Super easy and quick. A file is harder to accurately fit down in there.

  20. #3895
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    Quote Originally Posted by Self Jupiter View Post
    Best budget-ish chamois liner in today’s market?
    I use Zoic liners. Their cheap ones (rated 2 hrs) are actually pretty good, I used to use them for full day rides. I have the green and grey ones now, whichever they are rated for. They have online sales fairly often.

  21. #3896
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    On the GX / X01 Eagle, I think it works better to bend them slightly. It doesn't take much of a tweak at all - if you're looking at it and see the conflict, it makes more sense. I just used a punch centered on the tooth and a couple quick taps. Super easy and quick. A file is harder to accurately fit down in there.
    Any chance you could post a photo highlighting the tooth you tweak? I remember on my last X01 it was always a little rough in one gear in that general area, no matter how much myself and the local mechanics tweaked things. I vaguely recall at one point I noticed one tooth seemed tighter to the next gear, and gently bent it outward with a flathead.

  22. #3897
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    Any chance you could post a photo highlighting the tooth you tweak? I remember on my last X01 it was always a little rough in one gear in that general area, no matter how much myself and the local mechanics tweaked things. I vaguely recall at one point I noticed one tooth seemed tighter to the next gear, and gently bent it outward with a flathead.
    It's tough to get a good picture of it, but if you backpedal very slowly, you can see the conflict. I actually stated it incorrectly above - the conflict is when the chain is on the 8th cog, and it touches teeth on the 9th cog. The teeth are staggered a bit to help with shifting, and there's 1 or 2 teeth on the 9th cog that sit more inboard and that interfere with the outer plates of the chain when it's on the 8th cog. Tweaking the tooth outward (away from the 8th cog) fixed the issue.

    Some more discussion of it here with some mediocre pictures.

  23. #3898
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    Probably a stupid question but if I’m using post mount brakes on a post mount fork/frame,and just want to space for a 180 rotor, does it matter if the spacer mfr is the same as the brake mfr?Eg Hope calipers and rotors, shimano spacer?

  24. #3899
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    It's tough to get a good picture of it, but if you backpedal very slowly, you can see the conflict. I actually stated it incorrectly above - the conflict is when the chain is on the 8th cog, and it touches teeth on the 9th cog. The teeth are staggered a bit to help with shifting, and there's 1 or 2 teeth on the 9th cog that sit more inboard and that interfere with the outer plates of the chain when it's on the 8th cog. Tweaking the tooth outward (away from the 8th cog) fixed the issue.

    Some more discussion of it here with some mediocre pictures.
    Oh yeah, that really looks what I remember. I always wondered how the fuck I managed to bend 1 tooth on one gear in that region (I almost never am in that gear). If it crops up again this time, I won't hesitate to bust out the screwdriver/punch.

  25. #3900
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    Quote Originally Posted by mall walker View Post
    Probably a stupid question but if I’m using post mount brakes on a post mount fork/frame,and just want to space for a 180 rotor, does it matter if the spacer mfr is the same as the brake mfr?Eg Hope calipers and rotors, shimano spacer?
    For the most part no, but you'll occasionally run into incompatible versions due to the caliper running into the adapter. Mostly an issue with really bulky 4 piston brake calipers.

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