Ask the experts

[stuckathuntermtn]

I've only ever used Magura's pads (which are hybrid resin/metallic) and Trickstuff pads in my Magura brakes. I'm not sure I've ever seen full sintered pads for MT7s... which ones are you looking at?

TruckerCo makes pads you can usually get on Amazon or their own site for a great price. I've been using their fully sintered, non-finned Shimano pads for a few years. I like them. The hotter they get, the better they work. No noise. Don't have to worry much about glazing, contamination, even bedding in isn't much. Oh, and they last.

That's with RT86 icetech rotors, though. With the Magura's, I've got Sram Centerline, so no aluminum carrier or sandwich.
Which pads do you buy? I'm look at these. Semi metallic here. They're cheaper than sintered, so that's nice. If it matters I'm a lazy 205. I can get to 199lbs riding in the summer, but add water and whatnot and I'm probably back to 205. Maybe that's another reason I like sintered. This feels like a kidwoo question lol.

[rideit]

Tri-flow attracts dirt and grime.
This has been well known for 35 years, IME.

[stuckathuntermtn]

I can see how it can. Fortunately, it gets pretty dry around Missoula in the summer. I also take the extra minute or 2 to really wipe off the excess. Insert WD-40 joke here.

[XXX-er]

seems like a lot of effort, no thanx

[rideit]

I can see how it can. Fortunately, it gets pretty dry around Missoula in the summer. I also take the extra minute or 2 to really wipe off the excess. Insert WD-40 joke here.

Tri flo also attracts dust.

[climberevan]

Has anyone here mounted a longer stroke shock to a V4 Ripley? I'd like to put a Topaz on mine but I can only find 190x50mm in stock. Spec is 190x45. Some guys on mtbr have supposedly done it, but...mtbr. Thoughts?

[Andeh]

TruckerCo makes pads you can usually get on Amazon or their own site for a great price. I've been using their fully sintered, non-finned Shimano pads for a few years. I like them. The hotter they get, the better they work. No noise. Don't have to worry much about glazing, contamination, even bedding in isn't much. Oh, and they last.

That's with RT86 icetech rotors, though. With the Magura's, I've got Sram Centerline, so no aluminum carrier or sandwich.
Which pads do you buy? I'm look at these. Semi metallic here. They're cheaper than sintered, so that's nice. If it matters I'm a lazy 205. I can get to 199lbs riding in the summer, but add water and whatnot and I'm probably back to 205. Maybe that's another reason I like sintered. This feels like a kidwoo question lol.

https://www.trickstuff-shop.de/epage...oducts/BB170PO
Those are my preferred ones. Otherwise I use the Magura 8.P ones. Trickstuff Power pads have more bite. They're a bit noisier but it doesn't bother me.

I'm running Magura HC 203 rotors, which are thicker than the SRAM & Shimano ones. Another reason I like the Trickstuff ones is they're 1 piece, which helps with the pad alignment to minimize rub, which gets trickier to do with thicker rotors and Magura's short rollback.

The price on the Truckerco ones looks pretty good, maybe I'll give them a try when I run through my stash of Trickstuffs.

[grrrmountainman]

To get away from the waxing dead horse that’s sure to deliver yet...

I use pedal spacers on my road bike. 20mm seems to work great on the right side but the left seems to be too much with 20mm and I’ve tried it without - I seem to be needing like 10mm spacing on the left. Any options that the mags know about?

I’ve played with cleat angle and position as well..

[evdog]

Friends and I used tri flow back in the day for shore/whis riding. It seemed to hold up well in the wet which is what we had most of the time. It did turn the chain into a black gooey mess.

Don't use it anymore. I've been using rock n roll blue or gold with pretty good results but going to try squirt once I run out of gold.

[kalisto]

To get away from the waxing dead horse that’s sure to deliver yet...

I use pedal spacers on my road bike. 20mm seems to work great on the right side but the left seems to be too much with 20mm and I’ve tried it without - I seem to be needing like 10mm spacing on the left. Any options that the mags know about?

I’ve played with cleat angle and position as well..

whats the issue you're trying to solve?

[grrrmountainman]

whats the issue you're trying to solve?

Just some knee discomfort. With the spacer,I get some pain (over longer durations and or ride
Mileage in a week) on the outer of the knee cap - without spacer this pain moves to the inside of the knee cap

[bagtagley]

Squirt is the best compromise of clean drivetrain, longevity, simplicity, and general meathead application I’ve found. It can’t really be compared to the wax lubes of yore. It lasts a lot longer and actually works in the wet.

DuMond tech is the best, IME, but requires a completely clean chain to start and has some application requirements that lead to gloppy drivetrain if not followed.

[XXX-er]

don't you wana put any wax on clean chain TO take advantge of it being so much cleaner ?

shop bro recommended i try wax and was using Boeshield so I tried squirt and I'm pretty happy with it

[t.odd]

Yeah, I dunno, I use tri-flow and find it works well here in the sea to sky, I also give my drivetrain a good scrub with park tools brush pretty much before/after every ride so it stays pretty clean, then just a light coat of the oil.

[D(C)]

Yeah, I dunno, I use tri-flow and find it works well here in the sea to sky, I also give my drivetrain a good scrub with park tools brush pretty much before/after every ride so it stays pretty clean, then just a light coat of the oil.

Tri-Flow used to be my go-to but since using other stuff (Boeshield T9), I've realized how much of a mess it makes. My drivetrain just got so gunky over time.

A Tri-Flow soak seems to work great for freeing seized cartridge bearings, though. Pop the shield off, squirt in some Tri-Flow and let it sit for a bit, then spin the bearing and it's free. Shove in some grease and close up the shield.

[scharny]

OK here's a question for the experts - I'm currently running 26x4.6 45NRTH Dillinger tires on 80mm Mulefoot rims on my Norco Sasquatch Fatbike.

I currently do not have a non-snow, geared mountain bike (just sold mine), and I'm thinking about building up a wheelset that would be 27.5+ on 40mm rims to turn my fat bike into a dirt trail bike.

How much bigger would the outer diameter of the 27.5x2.8 setup be than the 26x4.6 setup? I'm trying to figure out if it will fit in my fork and frame and also don't want it to raise the bottom bracket too much higher off the ground. I understand that some of this is basic geometry, but the differing rim widths are a factor that I'm not sure how to work into the overall equation.

[toast2266]

OK here's a question for the experts - I'm currently running 26x4.6 45NRTH Dillinger tires on 80mm Mulefoot rims on my Norco Sasquatch Fatbike.

I currently do not have a non-snow, geared mountain bike (just sold mine), and I'm thinking about building up a wheelset that would be 27.5+ on 40mm rims to turn my fat bike into a dirt trail bike.

How much bigger would the outer diameter of the 27.5x2.8 setup be than the 26x4.6 setup? I'm trying to figure out if it will fit in my fork and frame and also don't want it to raise the bottom bracket too much higher off the ground. I understand that some of this is basic geometry, but the differing rim widths are a factor that I'm not sure how to work into the overall equation.

I think the 27.5 x 2.8 will be substantially smaller diameter. It'll vary a bit from tire to tire, but actual outside diameter seems to be around .5" - .75" difference for the same size tire between 26 and 27.5. So a 4.6" tire on a 26" wheel would be about the same diameter as a 3.8" or 4" tire on a 27.5 wheel.

[Dee Hubbs]

According to gear calc chats using a gear inch formula:
26” (559mm) with a 4.6 tire has a circumference of approximately 792.7mm. With a radius is 126.1
27.5 (574mm) with a 2.8 tire has a circumference of approximately 726.1mm. With a radius is 115.5

The 27.5 wheel will lower the bike by 10.6mm.

[toast2266]

According to gear calc chats using a gear inch formula:
26” (559mm) with a 4.6 tire has a circumference of approximately 792.7mm. With a radius is 126.1
27.5 (574mm) with a 2.8 tire has a circumference of approximately 726.1mm. With a radius is 115.5

The 27.5 wheel will lower the bike by 10.6mm.

You sure on that?

Using this chart I'm seeing a diameter difference of about 66mm, so that'd be a ride height difference of about 33mm lower with the 27.5 x 2.8" setup.

I get similar numbers running it through assorted other charts.

[Dee Hubbs]

I’m on my phone, I’ll check my math once on the computer.

[Dee Hubbs]

I’m on my phone, I’ll check my math once on the computer.

I accidentally used a 1:1 ratio, and calculated from a full pedal stroke, instead of a full wheel roll. So:
26 x 4.6 circumference is 2490mm
27.5 x 2.8 circumference is 2281mm

26 x 4.6 radius is 396.3
27.5 x 2. radius is 363.1
So ya, a difference of 33.2mm lower.
My hand math was wack!

[kalisto]

Just some knee discomfort. With the spacer,I get some pain (over longer durations and or ride
Mileage in a week) on the outer of the knee cap - without spacer this pain moves to the inside of the knee cap

ah yes... that would do it. good luck on the hunt.

[Falcon3]

TriFlow is my go-to for resurrecting stuck road brifters. Flush out with WD-40, let drip dry for a couple days then a flush with TriFlow. I’ve saved dozens of old brifters from the trash heap like this, and the TriFlow holds up well, I haven’t had a pair re-gunk up.

[XtrPickels]

Squirt is the best compromise of clean drivetrain, longevity, simplicity, and general meathead application I’ve found. It can’t really be compared to the wax lubes of yore. It lasts a lot longer and actually works in the wet.

DuMond tech is the best, IME, but requires a completely clean chain to start and has some application requirements that lead to gloppy drivetrain if not followed.

Squirt Does pretty well for a general lube.
Definitely want to apply it on a completely clean chain. (Like clean-clean. Soaked in solvent, rinsed in alcohol, chain).
Kinda tough to get the initial application worked in well, but once its good it's good.
The downside is that it doesn't ever completely dry, which means it can still attract dust.

I've been using the Silca wax for my fast bikes and Rock N Roll Gold for my fun bikes.

[XXX-er]

Before Squirt i was a pro-gold junkie for > 10 yars, i used it on chains, pivots , dripped it in cables, every where i might have used tri flo so i guess i recommmend it over tri flow. Tri- flow has teflon, pro gold has something else https://progoldmfr.com/wp-content/up...ube-liquid.pdf

Squirt Does pretty well for a general lube.
Definitely want to apply it on a completely clean chain. (Like clean-clean. Soaked in solvent, rinsed in alcohol, chain).
Kinda tough to get the initial application worked in well, but once its good it's good.
The downside is that it doesn't ever completely dry, which means it can still attract dust. .

try soaking the chain overnight in enough Naptha in the bottom of a jar ( 3" ? )to cover the chain, it will remove every spec of dirt/ grease/ oil and the Naptha will dry almost instantly when you take it out for a supa clean chain with no effort, that is the hardest part of Squirting getting the chain clean, after that its just like any other chain lube to apply,

i apply by putting a drop on each pin, you can melt squirt by pointing a heat gun at the chain and pedaling on a the stand

try putting a drop of squirt out to dry, it will start as a milky white liquid and dry to a drop of wax

so IMO squirt does dry, I lube after i ride so the product will be in the chain for the next time i ride

i use it on my road/ enduro/ FAT/ touring bikes

DO NOT let squirt freeze or it will thicken up and not penetrate quite as well, but you can cut it back with a little water as per the engineer