If you guys add up the hours you spend treating your chain like it’s a delicate orchid, then multiply that by minimum wage, there’s no way it works out to your advantage.
I drench it with something oily if it squeaks or I can see rust.
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However many are in a shit ton.
The diameter of the wheel will be ~62mm less with 27.5 x 2.8. Which will lower the bottom bracket of the bike by ~31mm.
So the bike will be a bit over an inch lower with the 27.5 x 2.8 tires. In other words, that's too much. It won't work.
You could use a 29 x 3". That'd be pretty close to the same ride height as a 26 x 4.6.
You guys missed the meathead application part of my list. You’re probably supposed to clean the chain, but you don’t have to. That factory goop is good for 3-4 rides, easy. No way I’m cleaning that stuff off.![]()
Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.
OK, this is what I don't get.
The big complaint against hot waxing is the time factor, right?
However, yes, the quote above is the right way to do the daily drip-on method. And repeat every, what, 2-3 rides?
How is this easier than hot waxing?
With hot wax, yes, there is the initial effort of gathering the ingredients and tossing them together in a crockpot. Not a big deal; throw them together, turn it on and forget about it for a few hours. Then turn it off.
From then on, pretty much forever, all you do is turn it on, walk away for a few hours, throw the chain in, and remove it whenever you get to it. Now you're good for weeks.
Some time in the next few weeks toss the other chain in.
No cleaning or degreasing, no individual pin dripping, no drying.
And on top you get far superior lubrication and sealing.
That's why we love crockpot meals, right? Throw in the ingredients and forget about them for a few hours.
Same idea.
you gotta use tools to take the chain off
possibly burn your home down using an old suspect crock
put the chain back on with tools
maybe fuck up the clip in the process
in compro a drop of squirt on each roller is much easier IMO
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Oh, FFS. Is the horse carcass not pulpy enough yet?
I use No Toil motorcycle chain lube on my mtbs now. For me it's the Grail: no fussy setup, lasts 80 miles of singletrack, and isn't super dirty.
ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
I certainly see both sides.
There's nothing faster than dripping on lube and wiping it off. Often this is especially beneficial when you're lubing as you walk out the door, which is when most riders lube their chains. Rock and Roll Gold is the the clear winner, in my opinion. However, the new Silca Synergetic is testing very well.
Waxing (hot or drip) require you to either apply just as you get back from riding or in between rides. This is where it gets hard: riding on consecutive days can leave little time to do the hot-wax protocol.
Squirt , Wend, and Smoove, have solvents that never completely dry. They do not dry completely like a pure paraffin does. This is likely only apparent in very dry and dusty conditions.
The Hot-Melt waxes (Pure Paraffin, Molten Speed Wax, Silca, etc) and the new class of drip lubes (Silca, Ceramic Speed UFO, Absolute Black) dry completely.
For XC, Gravel, and Road bikes I use both the Silca Hot Melt to get the party started and re-up throughout the season. I also use the Silca Drip wax to refresh in between rides.
FWIW- I use a small Instant Pot pressure cooker (on a non-pressure mode) and it heats up my faster than the little crockpot I was using. Wax is melted within 10 minutes and it has a timer if I forget to turn it off.
I'm pretty sure Squirt would freeze solid at -20 and there may have been a week of -30 that winter, I duno how they get it low temp without messing up the properties that allow the product to flow and then solidify but your takaway here is that Squirt is wax cut with water and you can always add more water
I did the brand new chain on my Norco bigfoot FAT bike last fall with Squirt so i did the naptha soak to remove all oil or preservative but then it was below freeze out in the shed so I wasnt sure how squirt would flow & penetrate ??
so I lay thy chain out on a piece of cardboard and put a drop of product on each roller before putting the chain back on the bike, I been riding it a little this winter and it seems to work fine, no creaky
I found interesting the residue on the cardboard started out as the milky Squrit product out of the bottle but when the water had evaporated it was a hard clear wax
since that happened i am more aware of stuff in my shed that should not freeze so I put it all in a small bucket and bring in the house for winter
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
I always reuse quick links but I have heard it said do not re-use quick links but then i don't take them off all the time to wax chains which will is more likely to fack them up
so if you do fuck it up I hope you got a spare
I duno if shimano chains still come with the pin you press in/ break the end off but that strikes me as not so quick
more time + more steps = more chance to fuck up especially for a dentist
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
This is really the only place I disagree, at least with drip wax. It's a suggestion, but not a requirement. My bike lives in the back of my truck. I apply lube before rides if necessary and hit the trail, no waiting to dry nor wiping. Is that ideal? Hell no, but it works fine with some lubes. The wet Squirt will pick some stuff up, but as it dries, it sheds most of that stuff without leaving a bunch of crap on the chain, pulley wheels, and cogs. I know some folks are cringing, but I also know I'm not alone, which is why the lube discussions are long and heated. It works for me, and I'm not killing drivetrains, so I'm gonna stick with it.
The only solvent in Squirt is water. The rest is wax and emulsifiers. Could be the emulsifiers that keep it from drying completely, though my experience has been that it does dry pretty quickly and pretty well.
I've heard from a couple people that really like the Silca Synergetic. I'm no loyalist, so might give it a shot when my current bottle runs out.
Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.
"" Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
If you guys add up the hours you spend treating your chain like it’s a delicate orchid, then multiply that by minimum wage, there’s no way it works out to your advantage.
I drench it with something oily if it squeaks , or I can see rust.
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Yep. Tri Flow for me. My chains last about 1500 miles. ""
Ok so what I hear you say is you don't care, possiby you are not capable of understanding the caring about a thing thing, but you care enough about not caring to come and tell the people who do care, that you don't care, so why don't you just completely not care and how would that look ?
Fully/completely not caring means you don't ask the people who do care for advice or even talk to them
you just fuck something up take it to the shop & give em whatever money they ask you for
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
For the people who do care about how shit works I decided to play dr science,
the question is " does Squirt solidify or stay liquid? "
so i squirted Squirt on a piece of cardboard to dry, even made a little column out of masking tape,
so after a couple of hrs the Squirt is solidifying/ going transparent and you can put thumbnail marks in the wax,
i am taking pictures but they are lost in the ether or more likely its those fuck Q'anon people I smack talked last week are messing with me
the pics are not lost i just can't find them but stay tuned science fans, picts in the AM
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Removing a chain to fully degrease and hot wax it seems a little excessive to me. And might result in popping a quick link out on a ride if they're not replaced on a regular basis. Also my understanding is that wax is not as good of a lube as, like, oil. But not attracting as much dirt makes up to it.
I switched from rnr gold to dumonde, it's a iittle more work but lasts longer. The other thing is nice chains seem to last longer too. The nx eagle chain that came on my hei hei was past fully worn when I checked it at... 850mi. Didn't seem to get good life out of 1130s or shimano's 601 or 701 chains either. So kmc x11sl gold for road bike, xx1 for mtb (I went with rainbow color, it's pretty sweet). The fancy, shiny chains probably motivate me to keep them cleaner as well.
IME wax is as good as any petro lube but no way i wanted to pull the chain everytime so I never did but Squirt is wax with out the crockpot, no more hassle than any lube you drip-on from a bottle
that stuff that comes on a new chain is just a factory preservative to keep it from rusting and should be removed
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
OK, apperently off topic right now:
I've carefully curated what I carry on different length rides for mountain biking over the past.... while.
I recently bought a gravel road bike. I'm guessing I'll get a saddle bag and shove stuff in there.
What should I have in there?
Spare Tube
CO2 and inflator
multi tool
What else?
www.dpsskis.com
www.point6.com
formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
Fukt: a very small amount of snow.
Loads of my friends ride without packs now. I guess I works for them. Last couple rides I remember giving out bars, water, fleece vest, tire plugs, CO2, and a pump. Like I said, it seems to be working out for them.
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However many are in a shit ton.
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