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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #3651
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    I accidentally used a 1:1 ratio, and calculated from a full pedal stroke, instead of a full wheel roll. So:
    26 x 4.6 circumference is 2490mm
    27.5 x 2.8 circumference is 2881mm

    26 x 4.6 radius is 396.3
    27.5 x 2. radius is 458.5
    So ya, a difference of 62.3mm lower.
    Thanks for keeping my math in check.
    So wait - will it be 62.3mm lower or 31.15mm lower? Your 62.3mm is a lot more than 33mm.

  2. #3652
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    Ask the experts

    If you guys add up the hours you spend treating your chain like it’s a delicate orchid, then multiply that by minimum wage, there’s no way it works out to your advantage.

    I drench it with something oily if it squeaks or I can see rust.

    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    However many are in a shit ton.

  3. #3653
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    Quote Originally Posted by scharny View Post
    So wait - will it be 62.3mm lower or 31.15mm lower? Your 62.3mm is a lot more than 33mm.
    The diameter of the wheel will be ~62mm less with 27.5 x 2.8. Which will lower the bottom bracket of the bike by ~31mm.

    So the bike will be a bit over an inch lower with the 27.5 x 2.8 tires. In other words, that's too much. It won't work.

    You could use a 29 x 3". That'd be pretty close to the same ride height as a 26 x 4.6.

  4. #3654
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    You guys missed the meathead application part of my list. You’re probably supposed to clean the chain, but you don’t have to. That factory goop is good for 3-4 rides, easy. No way I’m cleaning that stuff off.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  5. #3655
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    The diameter of the wheel will be ~62mm less with 27.5 x 2.8. Which will lower the bottom bracket of the bike by ~31mm.

    So the bike will be a bit over an inch lower with the 27.5 x 2.8 tires. In other words, that's too much. It won't work.
    You could use a 29 x 3". That'd be pretty close to the same ride height as a 26 x 4.6.
    Sorry for a few mistakes in my hand math, so I used my trusted friend EXCEL who does not lie.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Dee Hubbs; 03-23-2021 at 08:48 AM.

  6. #3656
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    Before Squirt i was a pro-gold junkie for > 10 yars, i used it on chains, pivots , dripped it in cables, every where i might have used tri flo so i guess i recommmend it over tri flow. Tri- flow has teflon, pro gold has something else https://progoldmfr.com/wp-content/up...ube-liquid.pdf




    try soaking the chain overnight in enough Naptha in the bottom of a jar ( 3" ? )to cover the chain, it will remove every spec of dirt/ grease/ oil and the Naptha will dry almost instantly when you take it out for a supa clean chain with no effort, that is the hardest part of Squirting getting the chain clean, after that its just like any other chain lube to apply,

    i apply by putting a drop on each pin, you can melt squirt by pointing a heat gun at the chain and pedaling on a the stand

    try putting a drop of squirt out to dry, it will start as a milky white liquid and dry to a drop of wax

    so IMO squirt does dry, I lube after i ride so the product will be in the chain for the next time i ride

    i use it on my road/ enduro/ FAT/ touring bikes

    DO NOT let squirt freeze or it will thicken up and not penetrate quite as well, but you can cut it back with a little water as per the engineer
    OK, this is what I don't get.
    The big complaint against hot waxing is the time factor, right?
    However, yes, the quote above is the right way to do the daily drip-on method. And repeat every, what, 2-3 rides?
    How is this easier than hot waxing?
    With hot wax, yes, there is the initial effort of gathering the ingredients and tossing them together in a crockpot. Not a big deal; throw them together, turn it on and forget about it for a few hours. Then turn it off.
    From then on, pretty much forever, all you do is turn it on, walk away for a few hours, throw the chain in, and remove it whenever you get to it. Now you're good for weeks.
    Some time in the next few weeks toss the other chain in.
    No cleaning or degreasing, no individual pin dripping, no drying.

    And on top you get far superior lubrication and sealing.

    That's why we love crockpot meals, right? Throw in the ingredients and forget about them for a few hours.
    Same idea.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  7. #3657
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    you gotta use tools to take the chain off
    possibly burn your home down using an old suspect crock
    put the chain back on with tools
    maybe fuck up the clip in the process

    in compro a drop of squirt on each roller is much easier IMO
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #3658
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    Oh, FFS. Is the horse carcass not pulpy enough yet?

    I use No Toil motorcycle chain lube on my mtbs now. For me it's the Grail: no fussy setup, lasts 80 miles of singletrack, and isn't super dirty.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  9. #3659
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post

    DO NOT let squirt freeze or it will thicken up and not penetrate quite as well, but you can cut it back with a little water as per the engineer
    Or, get Squirt Low Temp.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  10. #3660
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roxtar View Post
    OK, this is what I don't get.
    The big complaint against hot waxing is the time factor, right?
    However, yes, the quote above is the right way to do the daily drip-on method. And repeat every, what, 2-3 rides?
    How is this easier than hot waxing?
    With hot wax, yes, there is the initial effort of gathering the ingredients and tossing them together in a crockpot. Not a big deal; throw them together, turn it on and forget about it for a few hours. Then turn it off.
    From then on, pretty much forever, all you do is turn it on, walk away for a few hours, throw the chain in, and remove it whenever you get to it. Now you're good for weeks.
    Some time in the next few weeks toss the other chain in.
    No cleaning or degreasing, no individual pin dripping, no drying.

    And on top you get far superior lubrication and sealing.

    That's why we love crockpot meals, right? Throw in the ingredients and forget about them for a few hours.
    Same idea.
    I certainly see both sides.

    There's nothing faster than dripping on lube and wiping it off. Often this is especially beneficial when you're lubing as you walk out the door, which is when most riders lube their chains. Rock and Roll Gold is the the clear winner, in my opinion. However, the new Silca Synergetic is testing very well.

    Waxing (hot or drip) require you to either apply just as you get back from riding or in between rides. This is where it gets hard: riding on consecutive days can leave little time to do the hot-wax protocol.

    Squirt , Wend, and Smoove, have solvents that never completely dry. They do not dry completely like a pure paraffin does. This is likely only apparent in very dry and dusty conditions.

    The Hot-Melt waxes (Pure Paraffin, Molten Speed Wax, Silca, etc) and the new class of drip lubes (Silca, Ceramic Speed UFO, Absolute Black) dry completely.

    For XC, Gravel, and Road bikes I use both the Silca Hot Melt to get the party started and re-up throughout the season. I also use the Silca Drip wax to refresh in between rides.

    FWIW- I use a small Instant Pot pressure cooker (on a non-pressure mode) and it heats up my faster than the little crockpot I was using. Wax is melted within 10 minutes and it has a timer if I forget to turn it off.

  11. #3661
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    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    Or, get Squirt Low Temp.
    I'm pretty sure Squirt would freeze solid at -20 and there may have been a week of -30 that winter, I duno how they get it low temp without messing up the properties that allow the product to flow and then solidify but your takaway here is that Squirt is wax cut with water and you can always add more water

    I did the brand new chain on my Norco bigfoot FAT bike last fall with Squirt so i did the naptha soak to remove all oil or preservative but then it was below freeze out in the shed so I wasnt sure how squirt would flow & penetrate ??

    so I lay thy chain out on a piece of cardboard and put a drop of product on each roller before putting the chain back on the bike, I been riding it a little this winter and it seems to work fine, no creaky

    I found interesting the residue on the cardboard started out as the milky Squrit product out of the bottle but when the water had evaporated it was a hard clear wax


    since that happened i am more aware of stuff in my shed that should not freeze so I put it all in a small bucket and bring in the house for winter
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  12. #3662
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    you gotta use tools to take the chain off
    possibly burn your home down using an old suspect crock
    put the chain back on with tools
    maybe fuck up the clip in the process

    in compro a drop of squirt on each roller is much easier IMO
    A drop of squirt on each roller before every 2-3 rides.
    As far as the chain link thing, yeah, you got me there. If removing a quick link is truly an issue then by all means, drip away.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  13. #3663
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    I always reuse quick links but I have heard it said do not re-use quick links but then i don't take them off all the time to wax chains which will is more likely to fack them up

    so if you do fuck it up I hope you got a spare

    I duno if shimano chains still come with the pin you press in/ break the end off but that strikes me as not so quick

    more time + more steps = more chance to fuck up especially for a dentist
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  14. #3664
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtrPickels View Post

    Waxing (hot or drip) require you to either apply just as you get back from riding or in between rides.
    This is really the only place I disagree, at least with drip wax. It's a suggestion, but not a requirement. My bike lives in the back of my truck. I apply lube before rides if necessary and hit the trail, no waiting to dry nor wiping. Is that ideal? Hell no, but it works fine with some lubes. The wet Squirt will pick some stuff up, but as it dries, it sheds most of that stuff without leaving a bunch of crap on the chain, pulley wheels, and cogs. I know some folks are cringing, but I also know I'm not alone, which is why the lube discussions are long and heated. It works for me, and I'm not killing drivetrains, so I'm gonna stick with it.

    Quote Originally Posted by XtrPickels View Post

    Squirt , Wend, and Smoove, have solvents that never completely dry. They do not dry completely like a pure paraffin does. This is likely only apparent in very dry and dusty conditions.
    The only solvent in Squirt is water. The rest is wax and emulsifiers. Could be the emulsifiers that keep it from drying completely, though my experience has been that it does dry pretty quickly and pretty well.

    I've heard from a couple people that really like the Silca Synergetic. I'm no loyalist, so might give it a shot when my current bottle runs out.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  15. #3665
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    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    Oh, FFS. Is the horse carcass not pulpy enough yet?.
    It's just too much fun to stop.
    That and the fact that a grade 2 separated shoulder is keeping me off the bike and skis and I'm bored as hell.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  16. #3666
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    If you guys add up the hours you spend treating your chain like it’s a delicate orchid, then multiply that by minimum wage, there’s no way it works out to your advantage.

    I drench it with something oily if it squeaks or I can see rust.

    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Yep. Tri Flow for me. My chains last about 1500 miles.

    Cleaning a chain? HA!

  17. #3667
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Sorry for a few mistakes in my hand math, so I used my trusted friend EXCEL who does not lie.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks - this is really helpful. Just saved me throwing away some $$ on the wrong solution. Thanks!

  18. #3668
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    "" Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    If you guys add up the hours you spend treating your chain like it’s a delicate orchid, then multiply that by minimum wage, there’s no way it works out to your advantage.

    I drench it with something oily if it squeaks , or I can see rust.

    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Yep. Tri Flow for me. My chains last about 1500 miles. ""

    Ok so what I hear you say is you don't care, possiby you are not capable of understanding the caring about a thing thing, but you care enough about not caring to come and tell the people who do care, that you don't care, so why don't you just completely not care and how would that look ?

    Fully/completely not caring means you don't ask the people who do care for advice or even talk to them

    you just fuck something up take it to the shop & give em whatever money they ask you for
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #3669
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    For the people who do care about how shit works I decided to play dr science,

    the question is " does Squirt solidify or stay liquid? "

    so i squirted Squirt on a piece of cardboard to dry, even made a little column out of masking tape,

    so after a couple of hrs the Squirt is solidifying/ going transparent and you can put thumbnail marks in the wax,

    i am taking pictures but they are lost in the ether or more likely its those fuck Q'anon people I smack talked last week are messing with me

    the pics are not lost i just can't find them but stay tuned science fans, picts in the AM
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #3670
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    Removing a chain to fully degrease and hot wax it seems a little excessive to me. And might result in popping a quick link out on a ride if they're not replaced on a regular basis. Also my understanding is that wax is not as good of a lube as, like, oil. But not attracting as much dirt makes up to it.

    I switched from rnr gold to dumonde, it's a iittle more work but lasts longer. The other thing is nice chains seem to last longer too. The nx eagle chain that came on my hei hei was past fully worn when I checked it at... 850mi. Didn't seem to get good life out of 1130s or shimano's 601 or 701 chains either. So kmc x11sl gold for road bike, xx1 for mtb (I went with rainbow color, it's pretty sweet). The fancy, shiny chains probably motivate me to keep them cleaner as well.

  21. #3671
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    IME wax is as good as any petro lube but no way i wanted to pull the chain everytime so I never did but Squirt is wax with out the crockpot, no more hassle than any lube you drip-on from a bottle

    that stuff that comes on a new chain is just a factory preservative to keep it from rusting and should be removed
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #3672
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    OK, apperently off topic right now:

    I've carefully curated what I carry on different length rides for mountain biking over the past.... while.
    I recently bought a gravel road bike. I'm guessing I'll get a saddle bag and shove stuff in there.
    What should I have in there?
    Spare Tube
    CO2 and inflator
    multi tool

    What else?
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  23. #3673
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    For the people who do care about how shit works I decided to play dr science,

    the question is " does Squirt solidify or stay liquid? "

    so i squirted Squirt on a piece of cardboard to dry, even made a little column out of masking tape,

    so after a couple of hrs the Squirt is solidifying/ going transparent and you can put thumbnail marks in the wax,

    i am taking pictures but they are lost in the ether or more likely its those fuck Q'anon people I smack talked last week are messing with me

    the pics are not lost i just can't find them but stay tuned science fans, picts in the AM
    Compare it to pure paraffin.
    Then sprinkle some dust on both and see which one it sticks to.

    I'm not saying squirt is bad, I'm just saying it doesn't do as well in dust as a pure hot melt wax.

  24. #3674
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    Loads of my friends ride without packs now. I guess I works for them. Last couple rides I remember giving out bars, water, fleece vest, tire plugs, CO2, and a pump. Like I said, it seems to be working out for them.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    However many are in a shit ton.

  25. #3675
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roxtar View Post
    That and the fact that a grade 2 separated shoulder is keeping me off the bike and skis and I'm bored as hell.
    BT; DT. Vibes.

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