OneUp carbon bar, 203 mm front rotor, XT 4 piston caliper, PNW grips, fresh Minions and a suspension service for my Hightower. Can't believe I found it all in stock.
OneUp carbon bar, 203 mm front rotor, XT 4 piston caliper, PNW grips, fresh Minions and a suspension service for my Hightower. Can't believe I found it all in stock.
I just did full service on both DH forks and both E-Trail bike forks. Loooong over due. We don't have an off season here.
4 forks is a chunk of coin.
However many are in a shit ton.
Your chain looks to be on backwards Stuckie
[emoji6] that's a good looking bike!
I got a smoking deal on another FAT bike for GF, I was thinking an entry level FAT bike was gona cost me somewhere < 2K if i can even get one but a bike came up on FB so I got a 5 yr old Norco Bigfoot 6.2 for only 600 $, from some horse people ( lotsa money ) who never rode it
Some things are a little down spec on a 5 yr old FAT bike but its > fine !
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Purchased a 1x12 XT setup to upgrade my wife's MTB. Will use her existing 10-speed stuff to upgrade my cross bike.
WIN-WIN
And bonus, all the 8100-level XT stuff I ordered was in-stock and on the way!!
as my ski bro sez on occasion " how do you ever walk with all them horseshoes up yer ass ? "
It looks a lot like my new-this-year Norco Bigfoot, I think it was a 2016, its small so even the right size, i paid for it with govy pandemic relief $$$, it looks brand new cuz mom NEVER rode it ever, the downspec would be the Deore 2x9 gear train, the smaller 26" x 4.5" tires are not studdable , stuff that could be upgraded but is not necessary cuz its still a plenty good FAT bike
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Bought some rotors, brand new $35 each ( 180 and 203) seemed like a good deal to add to the parts bin
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apex hydro brifters/calipers, ratio 12sp conversion kit, gx rear der, 10-52 cassette, pnw pine dropper, and a 21 salsa fargo. hope rx4s and rotors on the way next.
i have done a couple of bikes with the 25$ roll of 3M stuff from lordco, the Yeti turned out pretty good and thats a pretty curvy frame
so get some spray bottles you want a bottle with a soapy solution of DW soap & water and a bottle of 25% solution of alcohol and water
first drink the alcohol and water
just kidding eh
but the alcohol & water does help the film bend around curves, alternate between the 2
you will get some bubbles so what you do is work them out best you can, but you won't get them all so the rest you pop with a pin and squeeze out the air/water
good luck counselor
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Ya - ride wrap in Whistler does it for a very reasonable fee. The shipping from and to Whis - not as reasonable.
Try Hoffs, and talk to Tim. See what he says!
TBF, he did a really amazing job.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
I've done Ridewrap twice now, first time was gloss on gloss Norco, second was matte on matte SC. The Norco took me 2 hours, the SC 4 but both came out perfect. Your lucky in that you don't have to deal with the single hardest part (top tube to tall seat mast). I don't know why the SC took twice as long as the Norco, if it was the matte finish or if I had more soap in the mix.
I worked almost everything by hand. Just be patient and keep working the water out with your thumbs. Sometimes it will feel like a section won't go, i.e. working the section over and over for like 30 times and then all of a sudden that 31st time it sticks. And totally not a big deal to start a piece over from scratch, just give it a thorough spray to start fresh.
Oh, and don't 'pop' bubbles, just keep working them out, redo the piece if you need to. If its small and just won't go then it will probably disappear once you get it in the sun.
YMMV but 3yrs later no probelms with popped bubbles
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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