PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[John_B]

gotcha, this is super helpful. as always, i appreciate the wealth of advice and knowledge in this community

i also have the binding freedom tool for polishing down volcanos by hand, maybe i should have used that?

When you go to install inserts make sure to chamfer prior to threading. I've had an issue before with then having a tough time finding the threads with the insert post chamfering.

[Dee Hubbs]

Thirding the rotate by hand advice. Bits can "suck" in to that nice soft top sheet and remove a lot of material in a very short amount of time. Ask me how I know.

thats why i have said JUST and SLIGHTLY in caps,
probably also a good time to skip the power tools ^^

Counter sink bit, in a drill, BUT in REVERSE is the pro tip.....

[El Chupacabra]

There are no marks on the ski, sidewall, or the plate.
So with all skis long and fast (and race plates) I enlist the help of ZomblibulaX.
His wisdom told me that the Elan 191 FIS is boot center 81cm from tail, and the Elan 191 SX is the same 81cm.
I’ll report back soon on the performance!

I measured out 81cm from the tail on my set of Ripsticks, and that center line is quite a bit farther back than some older 27 meter Rossi GS skis I have, which are the same 191cm length. Like 2cm difference... This, along with the 33m radius, has me second guessing the 81cm mount point and wondering if I should mount a little more forward.

The Ripstick also has a lot less camber than the old Rossignols. Weird.

Have you had a chance to ski these yet?

[Dee Hubbs]

I measured out 81cm from the tail on my set of Ripsticks, and that center line is quite a bit farther back than some older 27 meter Rossi GS skis I have, which are the same 191cm length. Like 2cm difference... This, along with the 33m radius, has me second guessing the 81cm mount point and wondering if I should mount a little more forward.
The Ripstick also has a lot less camber than the old Rossignols. Weird.
Have you had a chance to ski these yet?

I have not skied them yet, we go some fresh snow, and then it got too busy on the runs for me to to open these up like they deserve.
That 81cm from tail came directly from the dealers technical manual. I cant google the exact 2014 manual but the 12-13 and 15-16 manuals both have the same number.

[El Chupacabra]

I have not skied them yet, we go some fresh snow, and then it got too busy on the runs for me to to open these up like they deserve.
That 81cm from tail came directly from the dealers technical manual. I cant google the exact 2014 manual but the 12-13 and 15-16 manuals both have the same number.

Thanks. Guess I should go with the factory recommendation.

[ASmileyFace]

For volcanoes and plastic plugs a little sureform plane is the tits.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-...-399/202262007

This is what I use. And I will confirm, it is the tits.

[XXX-er]

Counter sink bit, in a drill, BUT in REVERSE is the pro tip.....

cool Tip^^ altho I don't own any countersink bits


your ski and bike tips are always great !

[ntblanks]

Counter sink bit, in a drill, BUT in REVERSE is the pro tip.....

oooh. gonna try that.

[Cocximus]

So the wardens clearance is definately an issue with the punched khions.

I wonder if I can grind down the toe? Dunno, I rather not fuck up these brand new wardens.

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[El Chupacabra]

Suggestions on temporarily narrowing a wide jig, so as to fit it onto skinny race skis? I have a Salomon wide jig, that even with the feet pads flipped around, is too wide for race skis.

Tried taping another set of feet pads to the Salomon ones, but they don't stay in place well.

[MegaStoke]

Suggestions on temporarily narrowing a wide jig, so as to fit it onto skinny race skis? I have a Salomon wide jig, that even with the feet pads flipped around, is too wide for race skis.

Tried taping another set of feet pads to the Salomon ones, but they don't stay in place well.

I’ve done:

Lightly clamp the jig onto the ski, nudge it til perfectly centered(measure the gaps from ski to feet) snug the clamps til you’re sure it won’t move, and instead of drilling through the jig, put your drill bit(or better, a SVST Alpine Center Punch) in each hole and hit with a hammer to mark the spot on the ski.
Then take the jig off, make sure your marks are suitably centered, and drill baby drill.

[JayPowHound]

I will happily buy the wide solly jig so you can fund a skinny one! [emoji16]

[El Chupacabra]

I used to have a narrow one, but got rid of it when I got the wide one.

I was thinking of trying: mount another jig underneath the ski, with wide foot blocks in the same place as the Salomon jig will go on top. Then flip it over, and put the wide jig in top, with its feet on the upside down jig feet. The upside down jig will give the Salomon jig something to press against.

[::: :::]

for volcanos, I use a countersink bit or a glass scraper with a razor blade, like this

It flexes and you can go flat across the volcano & get it flat

[ntblanks]

I'd dremel off the last little hanging portion of the coil to get it at or below the surface of the top sheet.

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thanks, man. used a diamond disc to cut 3/4 from the top ring and then alu oxide nub to grind it all smooth. turned out nice.

[ntblanks]

for volcanos, I use a countersink bit or a glass scraper with a razor blade, like this

It flexes and you can go flat across the volcano & get it flat

another good idea. precision with this option.

i used a sharpish 1/2" chisel today and that works well too, esp for clearing off old glue chunks.

[Spyderjon]

Just done a job to mount a CAST Freetour system but the rear toe screws of the Pivot badly clashes with the centre toe holes of the existing Shift mount:



I didn't want to have to offset the mount so this is where Rescue Inserts are great as they'll encapsulate the existing hole:

[grinch]

Just done a job to mount a CAST Freetour system but the rear toe screws of the Pivot badly clashes with the centre toe holes of the existing Shift mount:



I didn't want to have to offset the mount so this is where Rescue Inserts are great as they'll encapsulate the existing hole:

I have to try that. Tried using existing holes but that splayed the screws. I can slide my pivot toe on but not the tech toe. What length of machine screw did you use for the inserts?

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[tgapp]

just pulled off my first successful quiver killer (binding freedom) mount and i'm fucking stoked!




i applied the collective knowledge of all you fine people (g flex epoxy, cure upside down, tap guide, countersunk holes, etc). i also fucked up a couple things - namely, i didn't have my bindings ready to go to let the mount cure with the bindings in perfect alignment, but i addressed that later this morning. looks like the boots fit, now i just need to wait another 60 hours until these are ready to go

a few questions i have:

1. how much epoxy is too much (or too little) epoxy?
2. i have a measured thread depth of 4.5mm of the machine screws sticking out of the binding. the BF inserts are a little sunk in - like by .5-1mm. am i gonna die?
3. how flush (or not flush) should i aim for in placing the inserts?

again, special thanks to norse for helping me with a ton of this. i'm about as mechanically inclined as a sack of potatoes, so pulling this off is somewhat of a big deal for me.

[wwwllw]

Just done a job to mount a CAST Freetour system but the rear toe screws of the Pivot badly clashes with the centre toe holes of the existing Shift mount:



I didn't want to have to offset the mount so this is where Rescue Inserts are great as they'll encapsulate the existing hole:

I am currently dealing with this same hole conflict. it looks like I have 6mm center to center. From an old thread... some say, fuck it, overlap is even fine. 7mm was listed as minimum. Some said wood plugs and drill. I have regular quiver killer inserts left over from years ago. What are they and where can I find the rescue inserts? This is the last of 6 mounts for this season and am struggling on how to finish. Any advice from you guys? Thanks. Skis are praxis lahasa veneer/carbon.

[tgapp]

Shit. Now I'm worried.

I have 6.5mm between these holes and I was planning on putting inserts in 'em. Am I going to die? Should I get rescue inserts? Or drill out the plastic plug and put a dowel in it?

[HAB]

Shit. Now I'm worried.

I have 6.5mm between these holes and I was planning on putting inserts in 'em. Am I going to die? Should I get rescue inserts? Or drill out the plastic plug and put a dowel in it?

I'd fill the old holes with G-Flex and a barbecue skewer, then call it good. I've put inserts that close before with that technique and haven't died yet.

[tgapp]

I'd fill the old holes with G-Flex and a barbecue skewer, then call it good. I've put inserts that close before with that technique and haven't died yet.

okay so do i drill out the old holes first? they just have plastic plugs in them

thanks mang, appreciate your help here

[El Chupacabra]

Warden 13 and STH2 have exactly the same heel plates (indeed the entire heel is the same) - just keep screwing until they crack and go flat . . .

I just mounted my first set of Wardens, and I blame that plastic offset piece for causing spinners on the first heel track. (Screwing down track, waiting for screw to bite and feeling resistance from offset plastic bit, which then gave way. Kept screwing. Minimal resistance, and spin. All by hand, not using drill to drive in the screws. ) Annoying. Epoxy + fiberglass in the holes, curing now...

I bashed the plastic offset bits down before mounting the second ski, and it went smoother.

Maybe it's the skis? Atomic Vantage Ti. Drilled for 4.1 per topsheet lettering. Core didn't feel particularly burly when drilling.

[BC.]

Suggestions on temporarily narrowing a wide jig, so as to fit it onto skinny race skis? I have a Salomon wide jig, that even with the feet pads flipped around, is too wide for race skis.

Tried taping another set of feet pads to the Salomon ones, but they don't stay in place well.

Not to be a smartass but use better tape...?...duct tape will hold your extra feet on there. (fastest method)