Ask the experts

[bagtagley]

You're not wrong - that's exactly my preference on shifter and derailleur. But people look at the derailleur in the bike shop and that's what sells, I guess.

With SRAM, I think it's shifted. I'm happy with the GX shifter, but the GX derailleur leaves a bit to be desired (pretty sloppy). If I was going to upgrade one item on a GX drivetrain, it would be the derailleur. Not enough time on 12sp Shimano to know if it's the same, though.

[toastybroski]

Get a pulse oximeter and a COVID test? Or don’t ride in smoke if PM2.5 is above 100?

You could also have mild asthma ... I didn’t get my asthma diagnosis until I was 30, and my pneumatic function test was pretty awful, just laughed and told my doc I’d felt that my entire life and always worked around it/managed it. But yeah having an inhaler in the skin track was much more preferable to going into AMS territory ...

That said, I haven’t done the math, but on an equal length crank I’d guess that the leverage ratio of a 24t bailout ring on a 36t cassette sprocket driving a 26” wheel is probably about the same as a 28t - 50t on a 29” wheel ...

Yeah I wouldn't be surprised. That is a whole different issue that I am sure is affecting me as well. It would be nice to go up steeper sections that didn't feel like I was doing legpresses the entire time. I am thinking maybe a 30t oval will feel like a 28t and be a good tradeoff.

[Andeh]

While I'll wholeheartedly agree that the new Shimano stuff (XTR in my case) shifts better than Eagle, it's not without it's issues. I put over 300k vert on an X01 Eagle and never touched the b-tension screw or had to re-tighten the mount screw (other than when I broke the hanger). On my new XTR, both the mount screw and b-tension screw backed out to the point of flopping around in less than 100 miles / 19k vert. And the clutch was getting close to needing lube. An easy enough task, but I never did any service to the X01 clutch.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

So I could alleviate a lot of this with an X01 Eagle der. At least to get me by until I can swap everything over to XT/XTR.

[Shaaarrrp]

Hard to tell from the photos, but the line in the little red circle could be a crack. If you remove the rear wheel and gently squeeze the dropouts together (flexing the stays together - but just a little) - does that line open up and reveal a crack?

Also, your big chainring is pretty much worn out.

Thanks for the help! I will try to do the test you mentioned. Would it be a bad idea to rub off some of the paint to see what it looks like underneath? I noted the following from these additional photos:

In photos 1 and 2 you can see a similarish looking crack in the paint (right above P in expert). Given the pattern of this, it looks pretty clearly like a cosmetic scratch from brushing up against something. It does look similar to the one in question to me.

In the 4th picture, you can see the paint rubbed completely off the lower part of the frame directly below the possible crack. It actually looks like this side has more damage or indentation in the metal but still looks solid.

[XXX-er]

Of greater concern is that flooring ... somethings you just can't unsee

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Of greater concern is that flooring ... somethings you just can't unsee

IDK, that chain is giving me nightmares too. Please degrease and start over again with 10% of the amount of lube that you think you need.

[meter-man]

Couple of things happened...
I really liked the EXT. It replaced a Float X2 that I never really got along with. I really liked the feel of the coil, especially on long, fast, rough descents and I thought the shock felt great, if a little noisy. After a solid 6 months of ride time (last fall and this spring/June/July) it needed a damper service and I took it off to send back to Suspension Syndicate.
DSD shares the property with my shop and I’ve spent a lot of time this summer with Diaz and Stucki talking suspension. Over the past 3 months I’ve shifted my squishy worldview from one that relied heavily on compression damping, to experimenting with and preferring close to wide open LS and HS unless I have a climb switch engaged.
Granted, I’ve also been riding primarily in Park City for the past 8 years and there are about 15 rocks there, so more LSC might make more sense.
Durango has a lot more going on in terms of chunky rocks and roots so open damping is necessary for proper kidney and wrist function. I was fighting my 36 the first few weeks I was riding here and one day decided to fully open my HSC and only go a few clicks in on LSC. It made a world of difference in grip and control and validated what the DSD boys and I had been talking about (then I put a Runt in and haven’t thought about compression damping in months).
So when I took off my EXT, I reinstalled the X2 and fully opened up LSC and HSC, it felt a lot better. But then Diaz offered up a take-off DPX2 that he’d tune and lengthen to give my Rallon another 10mm of travel (160 to 170), and that shock has been just awesome. Light, quiet and fast AF. I’m taking it up to Purg for laps tomorrow for a proper bike park beating, so we’ll see how it goes up there.
EXT is a moto company that started making mtb suspension and as such, relies heavily on compression damping, because that’s what they know. They spec lighter springs and use heavier damping tunes. This also helps keep their shocks lighter. I’m going to try and see if Cody can put a lighter compression tune in my EXT, although the Italians seem to frown on it.
This is just my personal experience based on how and where I ride, your mileage will certainly vary, but it’s something that’s been fun to experiment with.
Way back when I first started racing DH, one of the fastest dudes in CO at the time used to preach about opening everything up and let the suspension just do its thing. I did that for a while, then I thought as I learned more about suspension that I wanted to really twist knobs and have squishy spring rates with lots of compression tuning. I’ve kind of come back full circle and flick my climbing switch when I want a little more support but otherwise enjoy full open gooosh and all the traction and joy it brings to my life.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Rad - that's for the awesome and lengthy reply. I'll be curious to hear how you like the DPX2 in the bike park - that's where I feel the most limitations with that shock. Not that I'm a suspension expert or anything. Riding Truckee/Tahoe area mostly - lots of rocks and jumps and such.

Do you know anything about the tune that DSD put on your DPX2? Also, what bike is this on? I have a 19 Patrol, and it has a pretty linear leverage curve - general wisdom is that air shocks (with greater progression) usually play better with linear curves. But the Storia is supposed to be tuned specifically for the Patrol's curves, plus the sexy hydraulic bottom-out, so hopefully it will play well. Curious how your bike's curves affect your shock preference.

Must be nice having Diaz for work-neighbors!! I've been thinking about tossing a Runt on my 36. We'll see...

This send-off line was killer lol.

Way back when I first started racing DH, one of the fastest dudes in CO at the time used to preach about opening everything up and let the suspension just do its thing. I did that for a while, then I thought as I learned more about suspension that I wanted to really twist knobs and have squishy spring rates with lots of compression tuning. I’ve kind of come back full circle and flick my climbing switch when I want a little more support but otherwise enjoy full open gooosh and all the traction and joy it brings to my life.

[snowaddict91]

Put loctite on the b screw. And put a little on the hanger bolt while you're at it. I bet your issue is b screw related.

Yup. Finally loctite'd mine after dealing with shifting going to shit every couple of weeks. Haven't had to mess with it in a bit thankfully.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Yeah there is a tiny dab of locktite on there now, but it needs new I think. Especially when riding bike park the b-screw is backed out after like one lap.

[El Chupacabra]

Thanks for the help! I will try to do the test you mentioned. Would it be a bad idea to rub off some of the paint to see what it looks like underneath? I noted the following from these additional photos:

In photos 1 and 2 you can see a similarish looking crack in the paint (right above P in expert). Given the pattern of this, it looks pretty clearly like a cosmetic scratch from brushing up against something. It does look similar to the one in question to me.

In the 4th picture, you can see the paint rubbed completely off the lower part of the frame directly below the possible crack. It actually looks like this side has more damage or indentation in the metal but still looks solid.

I wouldn't go stripping paint just yet...

The curved line above the P on "Expert" - that looks like the edge of a clear chainstay protection sticker.

[toast2266]

Would it be more accurate to say that “GX Eagle is garbage?”

Seems like GX11 speed was pretty reliable and worked well?

After hearing about all these Shimano 12 speed clutch issues and GX Eagle shift issues, I can see why (a very small minority of people) have gone back to X01 11 speed with Garbaruk extra range cassettes ...

(Of course, I ordered my Garbaruk 11 speed cassette a month ago and still haven’t gotten shipping confirmation! Grrrrrr ...)

I currently have gx eagle on 2 bikes, xt /xtr mix on another, and I've had X01 eagle in the past. At least 1000 miles on each variation.

Gx and xt have been about the same for me. Neither is great, but they're bad in different ways. But mostly, neither of them shifts very smoothly. At this point, I don't really have a preference between them.

X01 has been the best of what I've used. I'd like to try a full xtr to see if that's better. The shimano stuff definitely shifts better under load, but falls short elsewhere. I also think an X01 shifter / derailleur with an xtr chain / cassette might be the best of both worlds.

[El Chupacabra]

Fwiw, the gash by the crank had been there since I bought it 3-4 years ago (open box buy).

I guess maybe that gash is designed into the frame? Sorry for my complete lack of technical knowledge!

Attachment 340158

That large indentation is supposed to be there. It's a dimple to provide chainring clearance. Not all frames will have it, depends on design.

[Shaaarrrp]

Of greater concern is that flooring ... somethings you just can't unsee

Hey now, don't hate! It looks much better zoomed out. It's one of many fine rugs keeping my apartment noise down

[dcpnz]

GX Eagle shifting/slipping issues?

New bike came with GX eagle. Not my first choice, but was a good deal on a used bike. It works for the most part. Climbing almost never an issue. Up shifting while pedaling hard on a DH = slippage. Chain not warn, cassette is good. B-screw seems to back itself out daily. But even when its perfect still issues sometimes. Only in the mid range of the cassette.

Is this just the way it is?

Assume you have checked hanger alignment?
Seems to be the issue in vast majority of my shifting issues.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Assume you have checked hanger alignment?
Seems to be the issue in vast majority of my shifting issues.

Other than visually, no I haven't really checked it.

This opens up another discussion....checking der hanger alignment without the fancy Park Tools gauge?

[toast2266]

Other than visually, no I haven't really checked it.

This opens up another discussion....checking der hanger alignment without the fancy Park Tools gauge?

These days, with 12 speed drivetrains being pretty fussy about setup and alignment, you pretty much need to use a fancy gauge.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Is the Park Tools one worth the extra $20-40 over "off brand" ones on Amazon?

[toast2266]

Is the Park Tools one worth the extra $20-40 over "off brand" ones on Amazon?

I've never used the off brand ones, but for occasional use I'd bet they're fine. It's not a complicated piece of equipment.

[Cabinfever]

FWIW I picked up the Park Tools unit earlier this year and it is robust. Unless you run over it with your car it should last you decades.

I throw it on any bike having shift problems. Takes only a couple minutes and you have either fixed the issue or rule out a major variable.

I imagine the off brand is also pretty darn sturdy but for an extra few bucks get the Park Tool and enjoy using for the next 20 yrs.

Not an expert but slept at a Holliday Inn last night.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[skaredshtles]

I have been thinking of getting a smaller oval chainring lately. Am I just out of shape?

Yes.

I am currently running a 32t on a 10-50 sram setup.

Me too.

I was thinking of going down to a 30t or 28t.

Me too.

I feel like the hills near me are fucking brutal.

Me too.

Any advice?

[toastybroski]

Yes.

Me too.

Me too.

Me too.

I think I will go down to a 28t oval. Otherwise gravity does the work on the downhill. Any suggestions on a ring?

[Roxtar]

Is the Park Tools one worth the extra $20-40 over "off brand" ones on Amazon?

That's not a tool
https://www.parktool.com/product/der...e%20%26%20Fork


Now THAT'S a tool.
https://www.abbeybiketools.com/colle...s/products/hag

[XXX-er]

Hey now, don't hate! It looks much better zoomed out. It's one of many fine rugs keeping my apartment noise down

but I've already thrown up in my mouth

[alpinevibes]

Could be spoke imbalance. Who is truing the wheel after the spoke replacements and do they know anything about wheel building? Could also be over-twisting the replacement spoke (easy to do on a replacement since the new spoke often binds in the older nipple, especially with aluminum rims). Or a bent rim that is being compensated for by over-torquing some of the spokes.

I'd probably do a rebuild (loosen all the spokes, re-tension and true). If the rim is bent when the spokes are loose you should replace it.

Local mechanics, who should know their stuff, but they seemed to hurry on the first two. My regular mechanic took the bike yesterday and replaced the bearings in the rear hub and the (now) two broken spokes. He seemed to give the whole wheel a good check and true, so hopefully this will be the end of it.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums